Introducing Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch MEN: Trine Lindegaard

Following Baartman and Siegel introduction yesterday, we would like to introduce you to another of Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch MEN winner: Trine Lindegaard. 

Trine Lindegaard’s playful approach to menswear design fuses bold embellishments and knits with exuberant shapes and silhouettes. The young talent draws inspiration from her childhood memories of being surrounded by weird and wonderful eccentrics and collectors when she  grew up in Denmark. Her colourful and inventive graduate collection received international press coverage with the designer being labelled ‘one to watch’ by Vogue.com. Originating from Denmark, Trine graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2010.

 Vauxhall Fashion Scout tracked her down for a 60 second interview, where she unveils a bit more about her self...

VFS: Tell us about what it feels being announced as Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch MEN winner? I was so happy to hear that I had been selected for Ones To Watch MEn, I really can't wait for the show in September. I am super exited to be showing with Vauxhall this season.

VFS: What would you do to celebrate?

TL: I haven't really had the chance to celebrate yet. -I am constantly working at the moment. After the show I want to be celebrating on a sunny holiday. 

VFS: Tell us about your industry experience till today.

TL:I have been doing various industry related jobs before completing my MA from the Royal College of Art.

VFS: What inspires you? how your mood-board looks like? 

TL: My inspiration is all about rubberbands. The mood is generally becoming much darker than expected, I am somehow moving away from my usual bright colours, but things a still changing a lot. 

VFS: what would be the most crazy thing you would embellish something with?

TL:I always use quite abnormal things for embellishment. At the moment I am trying out new ideas which includes, scrubbers, shuttlecocks and coasters.

VFS: If you could collaborate with anyone, who would it be?

TL:I would love to do costumes for theatre or films. I always admire Robert Wilson's productions and it would be amazing to one day have opportunity to work with him.

VFS: What kind of materials would you like to experiment with?

TL: LED lights, reflective and glow in the dark materials.

VFS: Where about in London you go out? 

TL:I live in Dalston so I normally stay local, even though I do try my best to avoid Kingsland Road as that lately has become too hectic.

VFS: Are you excited for September? 

TL: YES VERY EXCITED.

Trine Lindegaard will show as part of Ones To Watch MEN show on Wednesday 21st of September, along with KYE, Posthuman Wardrobe and Baartman and Siegel. Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s office is gettin quite hectic with London Fashion Week´s preparation which will take place at our permanent Freemason from the 16th to 21st of September.

Already we have introduced two of our Ones To Watch MEN winners: Baartman and Siegel and Trine Lindegaard. Stay tuned as we still have to introduce you to exciting KYE and Posthuman Wardrobe.

Introducing Ones To Watch MEN: Baartman and Siegel

Last Tuesday Vauxhall Fashion Scout announced Ones To Watch MEN which rippled through the media with great excitement. After meeting with the four winners Baartman and Siegel, KYE, Posthuman wardrobe and Trine Lindegaard, for a “business” meeting we thought that actually would be good to get to know each of them:  a bit of their background and other bits and pieces. 

“Every once in a while a graduate comes along that you know will become a fashion star of the future” as Steve from StyleSalvage said, and after personally meeting Baartman and Siegel, we might have to agree. 

Amber along with her design partner Wouter, who already have been featured in PORT magazine, are young menswear designers who Focus on beautiful fabrics that seduce and distinctive yet accessible shapes. This luxury menswear label have already established collaborations with English shoemakers Grenson for their acclaimed suede-tipped Brogue range.

This is an appetiser, but let them talk. Vauxhall Fashion Scout tracked them down for a 60 second interview.

VFS:So, how did it felt when you were announced as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch MEN winner?

B&S: We are very delighted. One’s to watch Men is such a prestigious and exciting section- We feel like our first year of launching has been a wild ride and now showing our new collection at London Fashion Week is a wonderful cherry on top of the electric year!

VFS:How are you going to celebrate?

B&S: We shall be celebrating with friends in East London- at the Scoult’s head- (its our Friday ritual actually). Also we are in the middle of creating the next Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection and other collaborations- so only a moment’s pause and then speeding forward we go.

VFS:Tell us a bit about of your industry experience.

B&S:We met while at Viktor & Rolf in Amsterdam, but in addition to this very creative and stimulating environment, we have been lucky enough to have been trained and exposed to other leading fashion houses, such as Marc Jacobs, Roland Mouret, Yves Saint Laurent, Preen, Luella, Katie Hillier and Tim Van Steenbergen. More recently we are graduates of the BA and MA menswear courses at London College of Fashion.

VFS:Which designer inspire you the most?

B&S:A designer that continues to inspire us, and we hugely admire is Dries Van Noten. His menswear and womenswear is always beautifully executed, with imaginative and stimulating use of colour, fabrication, detail and texture.

This past season or favourite from men’s June Paris Fashion Week was the first collection of Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton.  Modern luxury at its best.

VFS:If you weren't a fashion designer, what would you be?

B&S:Well i think we would both do something visual/practical. Wouter would probably be an architect or a product designer, he has a very technical and visual mind, and a wonderful ability to craft. I think i would probably lean towards something to do with horticulture. Very Visual though. One of my favourite places in London is Scarlet and Violet, the florist shop in North West London, always a feast for the eyes.

VFS:If you could collaborate with anyone, who would it be?

B&S:Currently we collaborate each season with the renowned shoe makers Grenson for our range of bespoke brogues and footwear.We really enjoy working with their team each season- all of the shoes are hand made in their factory in the North of England, combining luxury, comfort and durability.

In addition to Grenson we would love to collaborate with Persol, the luxury eye-wear company- we have been fans for a while, and would like to develop a range of reading-glasses as well as sunglasses as part of the ultimate gentleman's travel kit. 

VFS: Where would you like to see your brand in the future?

B&S: As we move forward we are expanding our collection range to include more outerwear and casual pieces, as well as accessories.

We have covered a lot of ground in our first year, however each season and collection feels more exciting than the last. We are always hungry for the next chapter.

 For the future we are working on exciting collaborations with our mentors- other creatives, and brand leaders- We look forward to expanding our retail points across the UK, Europe and Worldwide, eventually with the creation of our own brand flag-ship shop. The landscape of menswear is at a very interesting moment- so we are pleased to be involved at such point of development.

VFS: If we pop into your studio right now what music will we hear?

B&S: Well we mainly have a strong 80’s background music mix featuring most days, but in addition to the joys of Giorgio Moroder and Fleet Wood Mac, we have been listening to The Besnard Lakes-Albatross, Neil Young, Broken Bells and Caribou.

VFS: How do you envision September?

B&S: September’s presentation collection is one of our most colourful, yet refined. Set around the Theme of ‘Dust Drifters’ the collection explores identity and man’s projection of self, through practical tailoring, luxurious fabrications and refined playfulness.  We presented the collection in Paris for sales and the response was most favourable amongst buyers, this season we are expanding our UK and international retails points.  The mix of designers in The OTW Men’s category all are so different, yet there is a wonderful energy created by the collective, so hopefully it will be a fantastic show & event for London Fashion Week-Men’s day. We are very much looking forward to it.

Baartman and Siegel will show as part of Ones To Watch MEN show on Wednesday 21st of September, along with KYE, Posthuman Wardrobe and Trine Lindegaard. We must confess we are in full swing with London Fashion Week´s preparation which will take place at Freemason from the 16th to 21st of September.

Stay tuned to get the chance to now more about KYE, Posthuman Wardrobe and Trine Lindegaard with this 60 second interviews.

Pictures: Amber and Wouter picture by PORT magazine

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Announces Ones To Watch MEN SS12

Gentlemen please stand up! Vauxhall Fashion Scout is pleased to announce the Ones To Watch MEN line-up for SS12. Taking to the catwalk, Baartmans and Siegel, KYE, Posthuman Wardrobe and Trine Lindergaard will make their catwalk debut this season during London Fashion Week.

 
Ones To Watch MEN brings to the forefront the most innovative and creative new menswear designers and has been responsible for launching the next generation of design talent. Following in the footsteps of Ones to Watch MEN alumni, A.Hallucination, Asger Juel Larson, Camilla Bruerberg and Mr Lipop, the four new designers are set to take menswear in a new direction.
 
Describing themselves as modern-traditionalists London based design duo Baartmans and Siegel believe in creating interactive, innovative garments. The Dutch/English designers are 2010 graduates of the prestigious Menswear Fashion Design MA at London College of Fashion, Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel, who met while working at Viktor & Rolf, focus on beautiful fabrics that seduce and distinctive yet accessible shapes. The luxury menswear label have already established collaborations with English shoemakers Grenson for their acclaimed suede-tipped Brogue range.
 
Korean designer, Kathleen Kye, graduated from Central Saint Martins MA Menswear in February 2011. KYE’s design ethos is to represent fun-loving new menswear shapes that maintain powerful lines whilst conveying a sense of humour. Kathleen’s graduate collection was able to turn the most unlikely theme, “King Kong dream”, into a spectacular collection.
Nimesh Gadhia, a pharmaceutical scientist turned designer, is the man behind Posthuman Wardrobe. Gaining his fashion credentials by working on Savile Row for the likes of Ozwald Boateng and Vacher & Jacobs, Nimesh’s understanding for the complexity of human form and analytical approach to garment construction has lead to the development of Posthuman Wardrobe’s signature architectural outerwear, complex jersey pieces and sculptural trousers.
 
Trine Lindegaard’s playful approach to menswear design fuses bold embellishments and knits with exuberant shapes and silhouettes. Her colourful and inventive graduate collection received international press coverage with the designer being labelled ‘one to watch’ by Vogue.com. Originating from Denmark, Trine graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2010.
 
“Ones To Watch MEN had a hugely successful launch last season with key buyers and media attending in abundance. The UK menswear market is going from strength to strength and we are excited to work with and present London’s most exciting, innovative menswear designers.” Martyn Roberts, Founder Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
 
Specifically tailored to the men’s market on LFW’s dedicated Menswear day, Ones To Watch MEN is a collaborative platform for four of the hottest new talents. Selected by panel of industry experts, designers are also provided with tailored mentoring and business advice as part of the new initiative.  
 
All this week, VFS will be interviewing the Ones To Watch MEN designers…keep tuned!

El Botón-MFA last call!

Last call for ‘El Botón’-Mango Fashion Awards, a worldwide opportunity to receive the largest award of its kind – €300,000 with emerging designers.

Designers will have until the end of July to present their applications. Therefore, the latest date that must be stamped on the letter containing the applications is 31 July 2011, so that means a bit more than a week to go. The finalists will be announced in mid-November 2011.

Remember the requirements, The MFA is open to all young designers who are under 35 years old. They must also have already marketed their collection (even if only on a small scale). Candidates who have not marketed their collection, but have had at least three years’ experience in the fashion industry may also participate in the competition, as long as they can provide evidence of this. To enter, applicants must submit their application form, CV, cover letter (max. 300 words), evidence of two commercial collections (ten outfits each), a written description of these collections (max. 300 words), a draft of ten outfits for the upcoming Autumn Winter 2012 season, and a signed statement, certifying that the designer holds all rights to the designs presented. 

NJAL insists that each of the ten finalists will receive €18,000 from MANGO, which covers all production costs for the collections being judged. Because the interests of the designers are always put first, MFA and NJAL are happy to announce that throughout this competition, there will be no transfer of intellectual property rights and designers will retain ownership of all designs produced. Sharing such high standards means guaranteed excellence. NJAL is pleased to be the official partner and backbone for the launch as well as the application process for next year’s ‘El Botón’, giving MANGO the opportunity to communicate, interact and collaborate with over 5,000 fashion designers from around the world..

This is a huge opportunity, it has an amazing prize and it is internationally recognized, as Mango is worldwide positioned with the official partnership and backbone by Not Just A Label. Supported by Central Saint Martins, Institut Français de la Mode, Istituto Marangoni, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp and l’Escole Superior de Disseny, and following an impressive judging panel including Valentino and Oscar de la Renta.

31st is the deadline for the applications, don´t miss this opportunity. 

To read more about El Boton click here.

To see MFA´s promotional video click here.

The Shop at Bluebird buys emerging designers: VFS investigates more

The Shop at Bluebird

One of Bluebird´s many designers stocked is Manuela Dack, VFS´s latest new design talent for Fashion Week. So we thought we would find out more about the store and get the inside information for designers who would like to be stocked there. 


The ever evolving creative space on Kings Road takes you on a fantastic style trip from top end fashion houses to edgy designers brands. Spend hours browsing through carefully selected books, vinyls, beautiful garments and finish off your visit with a relaxing treatment at the on site Bluebird Spa. 

We explored the 10,000 square foot store in Chelsea together with the Shop at Bluebird´s Buying and Operations manager, Paul Baptiste. 

What is the concept behind Bluebird? 

Bluebird is a dynamic creative space. We see ourselves as a local store but with a strong international appeal. We have a great mix of globally based clients which forces us to look at things differently and with a international perspective. We need to keep on inspiring the customers. When the customer makes the effort to visit, it has to pay of; that involves everything from visual presentation to the the product range and service. 

How would you describe typical Bluebird customer?

There is no typical Bluebird customer. There are such a mix of customers. They are all intelligent in terms of the choices that they make. We get everything from the local Chelsea crowd to customers from different countries. 

What are the price point of your products? 

The prices starts from a jersey for £60 up to £4000 special dress or coat. We do have entry level prices which invites a wide customer market to Bluebird. 

What kind of pieces do your customer tend to buy?

Some brands have been selling particularly well and one of them is Balenciaga. We have only stocked them for two weeks and their products have been flying out the store. Other great selling brands are COMME des GARÇONS, Jonathan Saunders and Emilio de Morena.  Accessories are a good product area and have boomed in the last two seasons. 

What and where are you looking for when acquiring new designers?

We are looking for excitement and strong energy when browsing for new brands for our store. It is important that we feel that the brands can develop and grow with us. The designers have to have a good knowledge and understanding of shape and style and always keep on pushing the boundaries. 

Your latest designer you are stocking is Manuela Dack. Tell me how you found this emerging designer?

Manuela was first found by Rose Easton, our Assistant Buyer. We had been observing her for a couple of seasons and seen her grow as a designer. We are looking to buy in to more up and coming designers and London based design talents. 

What are you terms for buying from a designer?

It all depends on each individual designer. We most often set up commission based contracts with the young, new and forward designers. But for us it is very important that the new designers will not get lost in the store behind the bigger brands. We carefully position and display them in prime areas in the store. We always try to work with brand and them to work with us, you will need to build great relationships with the brands to be successful. 

Who is head of buying? 

Belle Robinson is the Creative Director, I (Paul Baptise) am is Operations and Buying Manager, Lee Ann Walsh is Buying and Sales Manager and Rose Easton works as Assistant Buyer. It is a relatively long process to get in to The Shop at Bluebird and a brand needs to go through all of us before being acquired. But when you are in, we really believe in the brand. 

How important is it to support emerging designers vs selling more established designers?

It is about supporting and nurturing UK based designers otherwise we loose them and they go off to Europe. We need to give back to new designers and it is a great opportunity to grow for London. 

What are the future plans for Bluebird?

We will continue to develop our concept with interior, furniture and lighting in additional to our current products. 

Your boutique is located in Chelsea, is there a specific reason for the choice of location?

The owner, Belle Robinson, and her husband John Robinson have always loved this building and what it stood for. It has a long historical record and is most famous for being occupied by Bluebird Motor Company. When there was a chance to get the space, they just had to take it. 

What is the inspiration for the store design and interior?

The venue is a very open space so you can do whatever you want with it. There is a soft industrial feel but because everything is on one level and you can create different moods. We can change the interior constantly.

To visit their blog, please click here.

The Shop at Bluebird
350 Kings Road
London
SW3 5UU
+44 (0)207 351 3873 info@theshopatbluebird.com

by Yohanna Mannelqvist

Melanie Rickey. Fashion Editor at Large on VFS

Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s  panelist Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor-at-Large of Grazia magazine UK, featured her exclusive review of her involvement in the VFS selection Panel.

Regular on the NEWGEN selection panel, Melanie gives her take on VFS and the Merit Award in her feature review, saying : "VFS is the junior version of NEWGEN. David Koma graduated from VFS to NEWGEN 18 months ago, and indeed got noticed when his VFS show was rammed and editors tried to squeeze in to his off-schedule event housed at their permanent show space at the Freeemasons Hall in Covent Garden. In short, Vauxhall Fashion Scout is a force for good."

The VFS Merit Award winner, Leutton Postle,  was announced on monday and the luxury knitwear label was defined by Melanie "as if Michael Van Der Ham had taken crystal meth" or a "handmade brilliant madness of the work" the review was finished with a note of anticipation saying "I know all of us on the panel of VFS are very much looking forward to the Leutton Postle show in September." and Melanie, we are totally agree with you! 

To read all the feature at The Fashion Editor at Large blog click here.

You can also find her blog on GraziaDaily by clicking here. 

Her name is Manuela Dack.

New Vauxhall Fashion Scout designer, Manuela Dack, announces a new season launch at Bluebird this August and that´s not all this new talent has been up to. Her Sheer T from her A/W ’11 Collection has been feeatured as the "must-have" piece for these season in Grazia magazine.

Manuela Dack is renowned for her juxtapositions of feminine fabrics, such as chiffon, with harder masculine materials that include leather and metal, creating beautifully constructed and experimental pieces. The designer is also constantly pursuing and developing new technologies and materials such as scented print, as featured in W magazine. 

Recently, Italian Vogue called her one of the ‘most interesting designers of the moment’ and Vauxhall Fashion Scout is working with her for her debut at London Fashion Week and at our Paris showroom.


We can´t wait to see her collection stocked at conceptual store Bluebird, and we are even more excited for this up-coming September, when will be the time and the place for her launch-pad to success.


If you want to see more pics from Manuela Dack´s collections and look books click here.


To discover more about Bluebird and what they are up to click here to read their blog.

Sara Bro Jorgensen guest contributor for fashion156.com

Danish born and a graduate from the well-respected RCA MA, designer Sara Bro-Jorgensen will be this week´s guest contributor for fashion156.com.

This online fashion magazine provides a celebratory platform for emerging talent, showcasing all that is new and inspiring, not only spotting the new talent, but collaborating with them. This is the reason they invite emerging talents to contribute. This week, Sara Bro Jorgensen who was Vauxhall Fashion Scout AW11 Ones To Watch and exhibited in our Paris Showroom, takes the helm...

Sara has been tracked by fashion156.com since she graduated from her MA, featuring her designs for a beauty editorial, and shortlisting her as one of their ones to watch; Sara is quickly gaining much coveted industry appreciation. 

Susan Walsh, writer for fashion156.com loves how Sara combines knitwear and graphic prints, creating new dimensions through her designs. Susan also spotted how Sara is influenced by American Indians´, how they decorate themselves, and how they are now are being influenced by pop culture. A concept she likes and she wants to incorporate into her own environment.

Throughout the week, Sara will elaborate on her desire to work with  trompe l'oeil prints applying a landscape print, and other techniques, as well as a contributing with Fashion156 love list

To read the full interview (and to discover which infamous black tie event she would like to attend, or why she would cover her face with a very long fringe) please click here.