COLLECTION | CJ Yao

C.J. Yao kicked off her first show since graduating from Central St.Martins this afternoon at Freemasons Hall. Her collection was inspired by a dream she had back home in China, this dream consisted of everything around her being magnified and everyone had actually shrunk back to their childhood size. The collection was based on this dream which included a lot of oversized pieces linking back to the childhood element.

Think Bill & Ben meets Peter Pan with some added leather and faux fur hand warmers. The collection was very wool based and included a lot of panels on the coats. Block colours were also the main features from the show however a few panels of print, leather and PVC made appearances. The thick, layered colour palette is perfect for autumn and the pieces were styled with low belts, slit trousers and fur face pieces.

The outfits looked great bouncing down the runway with C.J’s shoes that are collaboration with Ecco. These shoes made the smart pieces in the collection look more casual which was an interesting contrast.

My favourite pieces from the collection were the cropped wool trench coats, which were layered on top of other pieces along with black leather gloves. I also loved the use of the massive oversized hoods that covered most of the models faces along with the synched waist dresses with the Ecco boots.

Overall I really enjoyed the collection and loved the pixie look the models were given by Label M and Body Shop. The show in fact did feel as if we were in Yao’s dream and the whole childhood link was really interesting. The audience got extremely excited when we saw she had in fact designed a kidswear outfit and we saw a young boy walking down the runway at the end of the show.

#FashionScoutAW15

AmberJenner_

COLLECTION | Dora Abodi

Where to start with the exquisite Dora Abodi AW15 collection?

A mystical battle of the next instalment of ‘Cult of the Twin Unisus’ sees Abodi present extra-terrestrial creatures clad in explosive crystal prints, deconstructed metallic fabric with sheer billowing trains, flowing down runway alongside a life sized Pegasus.

Taking inspiration from science fiction, klubkid grunge and dark goth, metallic components of robots encapsulate an insight in to the fragile borders between innocence and sin, light and dark.

Holographic moon clutches compliment the dark dazzling, glitter eye makeup and feathery, disordered, plaited hair with pleather knee high boots elongating the enchantresses towering physiques.

Being ethically conscious to not use real fur or any materials from uncontrolled origin we saw faux fur pastel coats and deep navy feathered garments. Embellished unicorn sweaters and distinctive digital prints continue the theme of a fearless, majestic; female in timeless harmony with a mix of block colours contrasting with black Adobi perfectly executed her unearthly vision. 

Photography by Tomas Turpie @whyteswan 

www.tomasturpie.com 

By Lily Gee, Sub Editor, @lilybethgee

COLLECTION| Renli Su AW14

After featuring in Fashion Scout’s Ones To Watch show last season, Chinese designer Renli Su is back for another season.

The designer’s AW14 collection follows on with her love of texture, combining eclectic and international blends of fabric to create a rustic, traditional feel. Since showcasing her SS24 collection on the catwalk last season at Fashion Scout London, Su wanted to do something different and today she hosted a presentation in the grand Vestibule at Freemasons' Hall.

“This time, we tried a different way of presenting,” explains the designer. “My fashion is kind of raw, so a lot of it is hand work that takes a lot of time so I want people to see the detail and the textures in the fabric.”

Inspired by the work of Brazilian artist Mira Schendel, Su has focused her attention on merging femininity with oversized silhouettes and geometric designs. With a neutral colour palette of earthy white, soft grey and ivory a bold dash of terracotta stands out without throwing the collection off balance. The designer introduced some  of her technique and fabric to her designs this season using handmade organic Indian linen called Khadi, blended with organic wool and linen from Ireland.

Thrilled to be back at Fashion Scout for another season, she says “last season was my first time to show and it got some very good reviews in the press. If it wasn’t for Fashion Scout, I wouldn’t have that kind of opportunity!"

By Lia Stoke, (@LiaStokes).

Photography by Oscar Scar, (@OscarScar502), taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1,(@PanasonicUK).

COLLECTION| Marina Hoermanseder AW14

French-Austrian designer Marina Hoermanseder founded her brand at Central Saint Martins and showcased her graduate collection that captured an audience at Graduate Fashion Week. She showcases her AW14 collection at Fashion Scout London that featured elements of her signature style incorporated into sophisticated new styles that juxtaposed the hard and the soft.

A colour palette of muted nudes and greys was accentuated with bursts of deep mauve complimented the collection that brought together elements of fetish wear and feminine elegance.  Numerous buckles and fastening proved to be the staple point of the designer’s aesthetic with new takes on corsetry. Tactile materials are sculpted into sleek silhouettes where the models appear striking yet demure.

It is Hoermanseder’s techniques with working with leather that makes her un-missable and absolutely mesmerising to watch. A contrast of draping and structured detailing creates an effect that is unique to the French-Austrian designer.

The showcase here at Fashion Scout is a celebration of Hoermanseder’s ability develop and grow with her design process and is definitely one to keep an eye on.

By Vanessa Omoregie (@vnsssaa)

Photography by Lepa Georgievska (@Georgievskalepa)

COLLECTION| Zeynep Tosun AW14

Zeynep Tosun’s AW14 collection ‘Oxidised’ encapsulates modern day street style and effortlessly combines it with classic seventies silhouettes, making for a stunningly chic collection. Sports luxe designs are rigid and streamlined with raw edges which make way for occasional fluidity in the form of wide legged trousers and a-line midi skirts. Each catwalk look is heavy in its contrast, offering both oversized and streamline elements which consistently complement each other with ease. 

There is an explicitly androgynous feel to this collection with key pieces including puffa jackets, turtle neck sweatshirts, oversized coats and high waisted trousers. Tosun pays great attention to detail within her ‘Oxidised’ collection, garments are consistent in their detailing with big belts, statement boxy bags with faux fur trims and block heel boots perfectly accompanying Tosun’s seventies, street style hybrid. Vintage oversized pom-pom hats complete with leather visors feature in every look. Fabrics add a tactile quality to the collection, leather and fur panelling, wool crepe and brocade all feature heavily throughout. 

The ‘Oxidised’ catwalk begins with an earthy colour palette of rusty, autumnal tones before delving into a blue haze with icy hues dominating the second half of the catwalk, strikingly contrasting the collection's warmer colour palette. Tosun’s exploration of lavish textures along with her innovative fusion of styles make for a beautifully luxurious AW14 collection which successfully encompasses classic shape and modern styling. 

Istanbul born Tosun, studied fashion design at the Instituto di Marangoni in Milan before gaining experience working as part of the Alberta Ferretti design team. With a fourth season at Fashion Scout now under Tosun’s belt, it is exciting to see what she will do next.

By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)

Photography by Jamike-Latif (@JamikeLatif)