Monday, 15 September 2014

BACKSTAGE| Le Photographe SS15

This evening at the backstage of La Photographe’s Vestibule presentation, Fashion Scout caught up with head of hair Scott Jordan and head of makeup Lan Nguyen Grealis to discuss the looks that are going to complement the designer’s presentation.

“It’s all about having that block graphic eye, and having different tones of white along the skin, so highlight the cheekbones, highlighter on the lips, all kept quite cold,” explains Lan, who created the look based around the hats designed by the La Photographe. Maintaining a futuristic element the key features of the face are highlighted.

Using products by The Body Shop, a white kohl pencil creates a feminine block look on the eyes, which is finished off by the shimmery white eyeshadow, Sugargaze, that also acts as a highlighter. The final look is minimalistic, layered and clean, with clear lines used to highlight the look beneath the hats.

Head of Hair Scott Jordan created a feminine, delicate look working around the hats, which he considers to be one of the key pieces to top off the designer’s look. “We are intertwining the hair to mould into the hats, so the hair becomes quite origami,” he explains. “All the clothes are quite powerful and strong with a very feminine look, and these hats just set it off.”

To create both the intricate looks around the hats and the more relaxed, straight down hairstyles, the team is using Label M. Volume Mist, Hair Spray and Hold & Gloss spray, which hold the sleek and groomed look in place.

By Biju Belinky (@bijubelinky)
Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson

NEWS| Propress at Fashion Scout London

Behind the scenes at Fashion Scout London, Propress are on hand backstage helping to put the finishing touches on the SS15 collection garments. The bright pink is a stand out image amongst the frantic energy between the make-up artists, hair stylists and crew as they get models ready to hit the catwalk. 

The unbeatable quality of Propress makes them the professional choice. Fast working and effortless, even on the most delicate of fabrics, their long lasting quality keeps them a Fashion Scout favourite season after season. Certainly a reliable and hard working staple for any backstage team.

Follow Propress on Twitter and Facebook

Images by Ian Davies, (@detjohnmclane).

EXHIBITION| Swedish School of Textiles at Fashion Scout London

Today in the exhibition room of Fashion Scout London, we have The Swedish School of Textiles taking over part of the space. Showcasing creations from alumni Karin Mellqvist, Miguel Lucas de Simas Martins, Majli Af Ekenstam, Gabriela Vallejos Castro and Sara-Lovise Ewertson.

The designs, which were also seen on the catwalk yesterday, show different takes and explorations of material and especially display a recurring play on contrasting weights and textures. Utilising unconventional fabrics to create texture, shape and ever changing colours, the garments change constantly and play with light. 

The garment shown by Karin Mellqvist, from the collection “Hommage to The Fringes” utilises strands of plastic-like material in shades of red and pink. Covering half of a cream-coloured, knee-length structured dress made of a very opaque fabric, an interesting juxtaposition between simple and rough textured, shimmering and full of movement is created.

Miguel Lucas de Simas Martins involves the body in geometric shapes for his collection “Package+ Body”. Using geometric blocks of bright colours in shades of blue and red, the mannequin's body is covered by a stiff fabric that gives the impression of completely involving the wearer. Seemingly Pop Art inspired, a striped balaclava in pink and white completes the look.

The mannequin dressed by designer Majli Af Ekenstam sports a sheer kimono, exploring the colour and print in a spontaneous, yet organic looking way. The cut is clean and simple, with the highlight of the garment being in the colours and the way the light reacts with the material.

Playing with weights and pleats to create tension on the fabric and stretch the pantsuit to how gravity reacts to it, designer Gabriela Vallejos layered a stretched white pantsuit over a lilac iridescent high-neck crop top in a heavy, yet very luminous fabric. The result is an interesting, ever-changing outfit.

Lastly, designer Sara-Lovise Ewertson utilised foam and sportswear fabrics to create the garment of a cheerleader of the future. In block shades of bright and neon colour, the statement piece was topped off by a hockey mask in bright red.

Overall, the outfits showed a knowledge of colour and texture and a well-constructed balance between the two as well as an interesting study on light, and the colours that react and reflect with it. 

By Biju Belinky, (@bijubelinky).
Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson

EXHIBITION| Keiko Nishiyama SS15

One of our SS15 Ones to Watch, Keiko Nishiyama, is exhibiting her work as part of our Fashion Scout exhibition. We caught up with the designer to talk about her inspirations and the woman behind the brand.

Congratulations on being named one of our Ones to Watch! How do you feel about the show on the first day?

I was very excited. It was the first time I showcased my work at Fashion Scout. Since I graduated from the London College of Fashion, I got the opportunity to feature my AW13 collection at London Fashion Week last year. However this was my first time to show my collection at Fashion Scout without any tutors support and help.

What has inspired your SS15 collection?

This was inspired by the aquarium which related to my last collection: pictures and gardens. I combined it with hybrid flowers and people intrigued by beauty and fantasy. I also wanted to create the garment with odd and weird yet beautiful atmospheres. The details, colours and edges of the dress are all references to the ocean creatures.

What is your ideal customer?

I would say they are quite feminine. Elegant but with an interesting personality. To me they are not only beautiful also fun.

Why do you stay in London and not Japan?

It is a great country to work in - especially the fashion industry. I like to mix the Japanese culture with Western’s point of view. It was also a great place to work on my collection. The resources in here are so great - I can find references easily. London is the place with fashion museums and libraries. The places where I always feel inspired.

Are there any differences working in London over Japan?

There are many young talented designers in Japan. But in general, I prefer London. In Japan the designers just follow the same style whereas in London the designers are unique with their signature design.

What is your future plan?

I will be showcasing my work at Paris Fashion Scout’s showroom. After the show yesterday, I have many thoughts and ideas about the next collection. I would definitely want to come back to Fashion Scout again!

Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).

Photos by Ian Davies, (@detjohnmclane).

NEWS| Vita Coco at Fashion Scout London


Official Fashion Scout London sponsor Vita Coco, join us for another season of exceptional talent bringing their all natural and hydrating drink to the guests in the Media Lounge.

Packed with nutrients and bursting with mega-electrolytes it is the best way to keep on your toes and and stay healthy during this busy fashion week. From guests on the front row to make-up artists, stylists and models backstage, the refreshing taste is enjoyed by all and a staple fashion week must have - making running in heels a breeze!

Follow Vita Coco on Twitter and keep up to date on Facebook.

Photographs by Ian Davies (@detjohnmclane)

INTERVIEW| Michael Mok

Yesterday afternoon Fashion Scout caught up with Divisional Merchandise Manager of Hong Kong luxury retailer JOYCE, Michael Mok, to discuss the new talent showcased in London this season.

What shows are you looking forward to seeing on your first day at Fashion Scout?

I’m waiting for the Xiao Li catwalk right now. I’m looking forward to seeing some of the new Russian designers. No one in particular, but I am browsing around to see what’s the new talent this season.

What do you think of what you’ve seen so far?

Last season, Fashion Scout didn’t have the exhibition but this season you get to come back to it so it’s a lot easier for us to see the collections better here, rather than in Paris. In Paris we have a very tight schedule so in London you have a lot of time to see new talents, which London has a lot of.

Did you spot any trends you find interesting?

Sportswear is a trend that is still continuing this season. I like it, and a lot of women are using a lot of sporty elements to accessorise. Pleats are also a trend that is coming up.

What does it mean for JOYCE to support emerging designers?

For JOYCE we always support new designers no matter what kind of country or where they’re from. So every season we’re trying to bring new talent into the shop, to Hong Kong and China. The Chinese customer is our focus but we are also interested in new countries of fashion - Ukraine, Russia and even Brazil nowadays.

What sets London apart?

London is always a background for new designers because of the good schools and the energies that you have around. Worldwide there aren’t a lot of cities, apart from London and Tokyo, that have that kind of freedom and energy floating around. Paris and Milan feature more established brands. London has a lot of creativity. 

By Biju Belinky, (@bijubelinky).
Image by Kathryn Younger.


Having graduated from the London College of Fashion last year to roaring praise following her hugely successful graduate collection, Min Wu is welcomed back to Fashion Scout for a second season. Here she gives us some insight into being a much lauded young designer as well as her latest collection's development.

Your previous work has been influenced by artist Anthony McCall, what did you base your collection on this time?

I started from philosophy, like articles about how you define the human body. So because before we can say one human had two eyes, one nose, two ears but now you can watch things from monitors and you can hear things from miles away, and technology has become everywhere. So I was thinking if you take one part of your body away from you and grow and change it a little bit and put it back onto your body would you feel uncomfortable with it? Because it's still a part of you, but it's now different and has been developed. I started from that idea and used it as my design methodology to play with the fabric.

Can you talk us through your colour choices and design techniques for SS15?

I think the dip dye colour is kind of my signature but I'm not doing dark, it's still colourful. I want to do something new every season. I don't want to always just dip dye, so this season I've put a stripe on the trousers and it looks nice. It's not just dip dyed, I'm still playing with it. I'm also doing print designs as well, so I wanted to develop and add a little bit more every season. 

Does your collection have a name?

I haven't decided the name, it's kind of a big decision. 

What type of customer do you think about when you are designing?

I think about girls my age, who are interesting and who like styling themselves because most of my stuff you can combine with other items to create your own unique look. I'm not the kind of designer where this has to be cotton, this has to be silk - I can keep my mind open to everything.

Why did you decide to start your own label so soon after graduating?

The MA showcase was just so successful and I got a lot of good feedback from press. The new collection has kind of been expected from other people, press and media, or I've been asked about a ready-to-wear collection because my graduation collection was a bit more like art pieces. I don't know why, it just became something that I had to do. I didn't want to disappoint others.

Can you describe your Fashion Scout experience for us?

I really, really appreciate this opportunity to be part of Ones to Watch and it's been an amazing experience and the Fashion Scout team have been really helpful. And not just for the show, but even Martyn and Rebekah have been really helpful about the future of the brand. They've been teaching us about how to talk to people who visit our exhibition.

Have you got any upcoming projects planned after Fashion Scout?

For this collection I'm going to Paris with Fashion Scout and I'm going to Beijing for Design Week. Then I'm going to Shenzhen at the end of November for International Talent Scouting and that's a collaboration with Vogue Italia. Also I'm developing a new line. It's not really relevant to this one, it's more pieces that I liked that I couldn't include in this collection. I don't think I will be sleeping for the next few months!

By Clarissa Waldron (@thisisclarissa).
Images by Oliver Savage, (@OliSav).


This morning in the Fashion Scout Vestibule designer Jay Briggs transported onlookers into a world of water nymphs and powerful sorceresses. His SS15 collection, 'Melusina', is inspired by a 14th century tale, displayed intricate headpieces and hand-sewn chain-mail gowns designed to be worn by fearless, sovereign women.

The tale of Melusina tells the story of a prince who falls in love with a water nymph who agrees to marry him with the condition that she can bathe in the lake they met every year, without him looking. That promise however is broken. “I’ve twisted the story and said that he’s caught her bathing, and found out she is a water nymph and not a human being, so she swings her fin around him and drowns him,” explains the designer. “So the story behind this collection is that a man will always promise something to a woman he can’t understand.”

Using lace, leather and feathers as his main materials, Briggs created extremely feminine garments, which highlighted the power of femme fatales using transparencies and embellishments without forcing daintiness. Dressing a woman who shows independence, he describes her as someone who "stands on her own to feet. I want people to fear her.”

Highly focused on the contrasting textures and the juxtaposition of shimmering and opaque, the center piece of the collection is a full-white feathered dress with structured hips, complimented by a shimmering headdress in white lace taking the form of horns and framing the model’s white-painted face and body. Combined, these give the otherworldly dress an eerie, even more mythical feel which contrasts strongly against the darker garments on the mannequins.

When it comes to his creative process, the designer starts his creations straight onto the mannequin, which allows more hands on structuring. Another highlight of the show was a hand-sewn, seemingly delicate floor-length chain-mail dress, made of a sheet of fabric found in a most unusual way. “I was taking the trash out at work, and the bag was very heavy,” says the designer, “And I don’t know why, but I looked into it to see why it was so heavy and found this massive sheet of metal, which I used to hand-sow this floor-length gown.”

About his new collection, the designer hints that “there might be a form of religion in there”. Currently inspired by 15th century stories we're sure that whatever it is Jay Briggs designs for next season, there's no doubt we'll be transported to a new world of witchcraft and wonder.

By Biju Belinky (@bijubelinky)
Images by Elizabeth Hodson.

DAY FOUR| Fashion Scout London SS15

There may only be two presentations on the fourth day of Fashion Scout London but that's not to say that the showcase of international talent will be any less exciting. Here at the Freemasons' Hall, Jay Briggs and Le Photographe will showcase their SS15 collections.

As well as this, our exhibition will be open all day until 6pm and will feature a selection of the best up and coming designers including out Merit Award winner and our Ones To Watch designers.

Be sure to check back to the blog throughout the day for more interviews, as well as the presentation reports. 

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Sunday, 14 September 2014

COLLECTION| Vita Gottlieb SS15

Graduating from Central Saint Martins MA Fine Art in 2006, Vita Gottlieb focused on hand print and heavy layered texture. Sending the models down the runway with delicate sandy tones and coral peachy flowing dress, the designer infused her collection with a narrative taken from her curiosity with the underwater world.

Her signature is strengthened in this collection with intricate hand pleated panels and fluid silhouettes balanced with silk. Fabrics are employed to create a sensual dialogue between materials and the skin. The garments roam the body, alluding to flow movement under the surface with sheer layers over pewter and smoky deep blue. The designer played with dramatic texture on the pieces with layers and pleating but maintained the feminine side with leather glove and loose dresses. Juxtaposition and the fusion of opposites are integral to Vita Gottlieb’s design.

When it came to the colour plate, she used earthy tones and contrasted them with sheer dark navy and sharp orange. Featuring the details with clean-cut lines using layering, the reef print patterns pieces gave a sophisticated, yet modern look to the traditional cut.

Layered and flowing, summery movement was released through a soft yet eye-catching collection.

By Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).
Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson

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