Thursday, 7 October 2010

Doychinoff at VFS Paris Show Room

After stints at the renowned fashion houses Hussein Chalayan and Roland Mouret, womenswear designer, Maria Doychinova went on to establish her own label, ‘Doychinoff’. The Vienna based brand creates conceptual, high-quality and avant-garde fashion, inspired by art, urban space, architecture and contemporary lifestyle.

Maria sees fashion design as an art form and her approach to Doychinoff’s latest collection, ‘Petroleum,’ highlights this. Exploring similar paneling and pleating techniques from previous collections, Maria has created a range of sleek tops and body con dresses in a black wetlook sheen and ivory silk-satine. Boning and curved structured panels accentuates features of the natural female silhouette whilst tiered layering and gathered laser-cut fabrics creates a delightfully delicate and elegant appearance.

Sarah Barlow

Tuesday, 5 October 2010

Lislie Yeung at VFS Paris Showroom

If you were unable to visit London Fashion Week this season then perhaps you caught sight of Lislie Yeung’s luxury footwear in Paris instead. A selection of elegant knee high boots, chic wedged heels and striking stilettos all complete with interesting cut-out detailing, have been on display at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Show over the past few days. Using only the best Italian and French leather as well as exotic skins such as python and stingray, Lislie designs footwear that is originally creative yet surprisingly wearable and practical. For her latest pieces, Hong Kong born Lislie utilises a staple black and white colour palette with silver, taupe and pink highlights, creating a classic and timeless collection, prefect for any outfit ensemble.

Sarah Barlow

Yorkshire Pearl at Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Show Room

More wearable art than jewellery, each piece by Yorkshire Pearl is a completely unique collection of fabulous trinkets. The bangles are all handcrafted by Bert Clayton, the brains behind the brand, and are encrusted with vintage gold and silverware, parts of musical instruments, buttons, shells, bits of lace and hundreds of other fascinating and beautiful fragments hoarded and discovered by him over the years.

Clayton, or Bert as he is known by friends, is as eccentric as the treasures he makes - he originally trained in engineering and butchery before being inspired by none other than John Galliano to enter the world of fashion. In 2006 he enrolled in an MA course at the London College of Fashion and has been unstoppable ever since, counting among his many fans Hilary Alexander, fashion editor at The Telegraph, and Yasmin Sewell of Liberty of London.

As if conquering the world of accessories wasn't enough, rumour has it Bert is about to turn his hand to womenswear, with plans to debut his first collection in February of next year. We can't wait to cheer him on from the front row!

Come down to our Paris showroom, 
10-12 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais, and see these beautiful artifacts for yourself. We guarantee you'll find a Yorkshire Pearl of your very own.

Octavia Bright

An Interview with Carianne Moore

We are delighted to have Carianne and Mike of Carianne Moore with us the whole week, here are some small interview with them:

1. How would you sum up your collection in no more than 10 words?

Samuri, Geisha, coral, sci-fi, Art Nouveau, pearls, Swarovski elements, leather and millinery.

2. What's been your season highlight?

Having one of our hats photographed for Vogue by Nick Knight

3. How is Paris fashion week different from London?

Paris is so much larger than London, in terms of the sheer amount of events happening all over the city. London is a great press platform but there are less buyers present. Paris is more about business, while London feels more creative. There's much more variety here, and things are of higher quality - it is the beating heart of couture after all!

4. How are you finding showing in the VFS showroom?

It's really nice - very well organised and a beautiful space. We're enjoying being surrounded by such amazing designers.

5. What has been your favourite moment in Paris so far?

Going to Gareth Pugh's after party and catching up with lots of old friends.

Monday, 4 October 2010

David Longshaw at VFS Paris Showroom

For many designers, inspiration comes from an external source; a piece of architecture, a painting or perhaps a particular person or ‘muse’, but for womenswear designer, David Longshaw, this is not the case... Interestingly David utilises his boundless skills in writing and illustration to create quirky and original short stories as inspiration behind his collections. A few days ago I was fortunate enough to talk to the man himself to discover the story behind his designs for SS ‘11. He told me the tale of a group of youths who break into a stately home. After entering the house, the groups’ initial intentions of theft are soon dismissed after they become distracted and fascinated by a display of period costumes: ‘They start to dress up and the fun soon begins’ explains David.

Ruffles, pleats, feathers, ornate fabric manipulation, and other features you would expect to find upon period attire are all present in David’s SS ‘11 collection. A key colour palette consisting of a light ivory, powder blue and pastel purple is captured on a combination of simple silk camis, tightly fitting mini skirts and wispy summer dresses. Original drawings from the inspirational narrative are also used to create signature prints that are placed onto garments, adding an element of humour and quirk to David’s designs. My personal favourite; an illustration of a stereotypical ‘chav’ bulldog printed onto a beautifully delicate loose ivory dress, creates a wonderfully ironic juxtaposition of ideas.

For accessories this season, David has yet again teamed up with womenswear and jewellery designer, Kirsty Ward, who too has taken the fashion world by storm at late. In keeping with the collection’s theme and soft pastel palette, as well as her own signature style, kirsty has created sets of statement neck pieces complete with fabric ruffs, glass crystals and bullion fringing.

Sarah Barlow

View David's SS 11 collection at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Showroom at 10-12 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais, 75003, Paris Today!

Dover Street Market, Liberty of London, Joyce, Vogue Italia and Collezione all visit Fashion Scout’s Paris Showroom this weekend...

The VFS showroom has been super busy this weekend, with the likes of Vogue Italia, British Vogue, Collezione and The Guardian paying us a visit, to name but a few. With 116 people through the door, we've also had buyers such as Dover Street Market, Liberty of London, Alan Journo, Joyce, Opening Ceremony, Traffic, Layers UK and Left (who came all the way from Melbourne!) dropping in for a chat and a look around, and Comme des Garçons' Rai Kawakubo even made it in yesterday afternoon...

Octavia Bright

Maude visits the VFS showroom

While we were out to lunch the charming Maude popped in to visit our Paris showroom. Luckily the talented David Longshaw documented her visit for us. Pop back for a croissant any time Maude!!

Amy Finch

Sunday, 3 October 2010

Iris Van Herpen for Madame Butterfly

As well as her ten piece strong Amsterdam collection and the seven pieces that make up her mini-collection for the VFS Paris showroom, Iris has designed sixty pieces (and accompanying wigs!) for a production of Giacomo Puccini's "Madama Butterfly". It premiered at the Theater Osnabrük in Germany on September 5th, and will travel internationally over the next few months. The production is directed by Nanine Linning, a highly acclaimed Dutch choreographer, and places as much emphasis on dance and movement as it does on the music.

The three-act opera guides its audience through different sentiments, and Iris' costumes aim to enhance this emotional journey. The first act is full of optimism as Butterfly and her American lover Lieutenant Pinkerton fall in love and marry, but by the second act he has been gone for three years and she is alone, pining for him with their newly born son. The third act sees Pinkerton return, but with a new American wife in tow, spelling the end for heartbroken Butterfly. Iris' designs reflect the torment suffered by Butterfly, beginning in optimistic, colourful tones that gradually get darker as the performance continues.

Iris worked very closely with the opera's atelier through all stages of production, and encouraged them to use various techniques she has been working on for creating architectural shapes with fabrics. Pleats feature heavily, making a nod to the traditional Japanese use of the fan. Butterfly's wedding dress is a tour de force of pleats, with layer upon layer splayed out into fan shapes, creating a column of white semi-circles rising up from the ground.

Iris' designs aim to emphasize the fluidity of the dancers' movements as they travel around the stage, and she has said that this experience of designing for dancers became a huge inspiration for her Paris mini-collection, which incorporates strips of laser-cut plastic that create a rippling exoskeleton that undulates with every movement.

Photos of Iris' incredible designs can be seen
here. We're all desperate to see the production and hope it comes to London asap!

Octavia Bright

Gemma Slack at VFS Paris Showroom

For SS ‘11, British born designer, Gemma Slack, rejects the conventional bright and bold summer palette and chooses to yet again remain ‘noir,’ although hints of colour such as a bruised pink and plum purple are introduced into the collection through the use of print: Erotic photographs of the nude female form are digitally printed onto spandex leggings, bodycon dresses and sheer silk crop tops, to name a few.

Nonconformist in nature, Gemma’s latest collection is heavily focused around leather; a rather unusual fabric choice for the summer season but a feature non-the-less that has become something of a trademark to Gemma’s designs. Panelled dresses, biker jackets, tailored shorts and even swimwear form part of the leather-coated garment offering, all of which reflect elements of a gothic inspired aesthetic whist still maintaining a strong sense of sophistication and femininity.

After a successful collaboration with jewellery designer and fellow Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibitor, Katie Rowland last season, Gemma has decided to once again include stylised accessories within her collection by teaming up with milliner, Noel Stewart to create a range of delicate head scarves and wide brimmed structured sun hats.

Sarah Barlow

Visit Gemma's SS '11 collection at the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom at 10-12 rue des Coutures Saint-Gervais, 75003, Paris Today!

Fashion Scout dine with Émilien Bouglione

 Backstage at Cirque d'Hiver
 VFS Sales Manager Emma Crosby with Émilien

 5 Generations of the Bouglione Family
 Émilien Performs

A Young Émilien
 Émilien strikes a pose for us!

Last night, Fashion Scout had the privilege of dining with local legend, Émilien Bouglione.

Escaping the rain to the comfort of a dimly-lit Parisian bar, and using our collective, somewhat limited, French vocabulary we were invited to a private, midnight guided tour of the infamous Cirque d’Hiver with Émilien himself.

Émilien Bouglione is true circus royalty. He was born into the world of high trapezes and exotic animals at Paris’ stunning Cirque d’Hiver, where he still reigns as its director. 

The circus itself was built in 1852 for Napoléon III, and has been under the Bouglione family’s rule since 1934. As a young boy, Émilien’s father and uncles instructed him in the ways of their surreal and flamboyant world, training him as an acrobat, trapeze artist, clown and lion tamer, not forgetting as fodder for the human canon. His equestrian show, however, is what really made him his name, and he has toured it all over France.

Bouglione’s shows are famous for their dynamism, combining ancient circus traditions with fresh and contemporary ideas. 

The tour concluded with a private performance from rehearsing jugglers and an introduction to Émilien’s pet panther, ‘Tiger’. A truly amazing experience, Fashion Scout feels honoured to be invited in to such a magnificent, personal establishment. Merci beaucoup Monsieur Bouglione!