COLLECTION| Lulu Liu SS15

Crediting Alexander McQueen as her fashion idol, one of the most anticipated designers at Fashion Scout, without doubt, is Lulu Liu. The LCF graduate has been consistently impressing the industry since her 2011 graduation, having received press attention from Vogue, Cosmopolitan and ELLE. 

Known for garments that mirror her Chinese heritage in use of colour, fur and signature pleats, tonight Liu sent models down the runway to a chorus of "All the ducks are swimming in the water" in a show that steered things in an unexpected direction. 

Entitled 'The Emotional Path', Liu's intention for SS15 was to channel youth, innocence and childhood - no doubt the result of her recent embark into motherhood. 

This evening, denim blue and serene white were the signatures of the show representing the influence her young son has had on her, as well as the purity of our early years.

Bows adorned dresses in a variety of sizes, and childhood prints were also a fundamental feature as dresses and skirts were emblazoned with toy cars and the alphabet. 

This season Liu stepped away from Chinese inspiration, though pillar box red made a fleeting comeback. Frayed hems and ruffles contrasted against corset detailing, tight skirts and nipped in waists, and represented the joyful and carefree times children spend playing before being beckoned to adulthood.

Liu's aesthetic, combined with slicked back hair on models, demonstrated a bold look for women seeking luxury. With childhood undertones clearly apparent in her work, Liu carefully considered the adult palette, and taste, which brought two worlds together here in London tonight.

"The Emotional Path" was Liu's eighth feature with Fashion Scout, in which she introduced a new level of sophistication, fusing elegance and opulence to deliver her take on the SS15 woman. 

By Clarissa Waldron, (@thisisclarissa).

Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson.

COLLECTION| Little Shilpa SS15

"This stylistic collision equates to Disco Denimals."

Little Shilpa took over The Vestibule this evening to showcase her intricate headwear pieces and accompanying looks. Last season introduced us to a dark and luring aesthetic which, to our surprise, took a different direction this time around.

Guests are greeted to the static sounds that follow each model as the "collection marches to the tectonic beat of its own drum". Although dark in its element, its sound contrasts against the metallic hues.

The head pieces themselves are pleated, reflecting on the disco-tinged era of free spirits. As some sit as epaulets others obscure the faces of the models, allowing only the eyes to break through the vibrancy of the fabric.

The lose denim apparel which is also curated by Shilpa is cascaded by the head pieces as they absorb themselves into a second skin - protecting and enhancing the designer's primary focal work. 

Rectangular slabs are adjusted by neighbouring models, showing the audience the versatility of the look as a whole. "The freestyle shape-shifting nature of the garments corresponds to the revelry-loving festive spirit of the designer's moodboard."

By Joanna McCutcheon, (@joannamcc_).
Photographs by Florian Schadauer

BACKSTAGE| Lulu Liu SS15

Ahead of this afternoon's Lulu Liu catwalk, Fashion Scout caught up with Toni&Guy’s Chie Sato to talk about what inspired the styles that are going to be walking down the runway alongside Lulu’s creations.

The garments shown by the designer this year feature a number of contrasting lines creating a pleated effect with a lot of texture. The hair to accompany this look is no different. Small strands of hair were pulled up in the front of the style forming soft, cat-ear like arches separated by a large strand of flat hair. The rest of the style is composed by a ponytail tied with a criss-crossed piece of fabric, all of which creates an illusion of lines and maintains the theme proposed by the designer.

Whilst still keeping the style wearable and feminine, the stylist also highlights a play in the texture, using Label M. Hold & Gloss spray and Label M.Texturising Volume Spray to give the style its finishing touch. “The middle bit and the back are going to be very wet, the sides are going to be dry,” explains Chie. “So it’s a very different juxtaposition of the textures against each other, which reflects what the designer is using.”

When asked about Toni&Guy’s continuing support of emerging designers and their participation with Fashion Scout, Chie highlights the brand's deep connection with forward fashion. “London is very special for us. When you go to New York or Milan, it is composed by big designers that are already established and look the way they look," he says. “Whilst London is still avant-Garde, still free when creating the clothes, so we can work the same way with the hair. There is a lot of freedom and inspiration.”

By Biju Belinky, (@bijubelinky).

Photos by Tram Nguyen (@tramnguyenp).

BACKSTAGE| Little Shilpa SS15

Little Shilpa is diminutive by both name and nature, but her headpieces stand tall. The Indian designer’s pleated styles reference the disco era, replicated in the hair and make-up looks by The Body Shop and Toni&Guy.

For the face, Lan Nguyen-Grealis reinterpreted Little Shilpa’s colourful collection into a disco, psychedelic look with a hint of tribal and sport. Adding stripes across cheeks in The Body Shop’s Spring Summer shades of purples, blues and yellows, Lan imitated the pleats running throughout Little Shilpa’s SS15 show. Disco-esque rounded dolly eyes had layered lashes, with lots of mascara on the top and bottom. Eyes were kept as the main feature on an otherwise pared back base, something Lan predicts as a trend for SS15. "The last two days, everything has been very high gloss, it’s a no make-up look with a statement, but very street and wearable. It’s not untouchable. It’s not that difficult’.

In terms of products, Lan used the Colour Crush eyeshadow in Sunshine Love to stripe cheeks, while the Smoky 2 en 1 Black Eyeliner and Glowing Amethyst Eye Definer gave the doll-eyed look – the mouldable quality of the products great for smudging and mixing colours, as well as being really long lasting. Fashion Scout gives Lan an opportunity to be more creative than in other cities due to the unpredictable nature of designers who show in London adding an extra element of fun to her job.

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Photos by Elizabeth Hodson.

COLLECTION| Dora Abodi SS15

Transylvania born designer Dora Abodi, now based in Milan with numerous accolades, presented her debut collection at Fashion Scout today.

She is famed for her baroque futurism signature, presenting robotic tendencies across her SS15 collection. Abodi’s roots are revealed with the dark and super heroine style that runs throughout her previous collection.

This season she continued with her signature futuristic pattern prints, inspired by past and future classical art and religious rituals with high technology. The collection sees a mix of metallic, royal blue, rose gold, champagne silver and mesh black and white. Different fabrics used across the collection included print silks, leather, pearls and cabochons, silk organza, metallic gold lame, jacquard and embroidery. 

On the first half of the show, mesh black top and knee length skirt with a blazer appeared within the prints which were rich, vivid and organic. As the show progressed, the collection introduced feminine concepts. 

Evening gown, pencil skirt and white embodied floral collars all blended into the collection. A dark romantic vibe with heavily smoked eye make-up and black wigs featured. Towards the end of the show, Abodi surprised the audience with horns and white graffiti on the model's shoulders and faces. 

Abodi’s aesthetic is exaggerated and hyperbolic and she has succeeded in producing an interesting statement pieces for the fashion-forward woman.

By Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).
Photos by Celine Castillon.

COLLECTION| Kiev Showcase SS15

Celebrating their fourth Kiev showcase at Fashion Scout this season, designers Anna K, Anton Belinskiy, Yasya Minochkina, Lera Leshchova and Leonid Zherebtsov created their individual collections to reveal at this year's Mercedes- Benz Kiev Fashion Days show. Continuing a great tradition of maintaining a healthy relationship between Fashion Scout and Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days, this season they commit to pushing their brands forward.

First on the catwalk were the designs from Anna K. Only 18 as of this year she is one of the youngest designers to show at Fashion Scout yet inexplicably one of the most talented. We saw sign post motifs covering various a-line dresses, whilst jumpers dropped their waistlines injecting dramatic lines into her designs.

Anton Belinskiy, known for his clashing textures, brought an array of urban cut denim flares and soft latex shirts into view. Waists were nipped in and backs were tied together as excess straps were left free flowing, somewhat trimming the outfits. 

Leonid Zherebtsov produced heavy quilted jackets with embellished collars and pockets, hand painted jackets and faux fur coats. However all fabrics stayed natural and sustainable, a promising aesthetic from one of the newest designers to join Kiev Days.  

Lera Leshchova produced quality tailoring as lines were clean and cuts were graphic. Cut-out panels were connected by chain links whilst fabrics varied from tweed to latex designed to look like stained glass. Intricate detailing was key in this collection as contrasting fabrics juxtaposed heavily in trimming.

Yasya Minochkina, a Central Saint Martins alumni, epitomised femininity with her collection as netted material overlay flower prints, varying in pastel shades. Cuts were classic and silhouettes were streamlined as she took her signature minimalistic approach to this season's SS15 collection.

This year's collections were some of the most memorable of the Kiev Fashion Days shows. Designers opted for their designs to stand out in a modern and wearable fashion, suited to going straight from catwalk to counters.

Photos by Hugo Nogueira

BACKSTAGE| Kiev Showcase

Photographs by Anai Bharucha, (@anai014).