Komakino

The last day and who better to ensure Vauxhall Fashion Scout goes out with a bang than conceptual menswear label Komakino.  This season saw husband and wife duo Federico Capalbo and Jin Kim fuse refined tailoring with deconstruction, creating an aggressively strong silhouette sure to be a hit with the east London set.

Citing iconoclasm as an inspiration, Komakino presented a sombre collection with references to religion, military and neo-classical details.  Their foundations are in street wear, and this was not forgotten thanks to latex designer Atsuko Kudo and his decomposed rubber couture.  A distressed leather jacket with exaggerated shoulders proved to be a strong look; the ruthless nature of the styling softened with blue suede detailing.  But it was the rusty metal headpieces which were the real stars of the show, further defining the aggressive aesthetic of the collection and confirming the message that the Komakino guy is definitely not to be messed with. 

Louise Hemmings
Image: David Coleman 

Interview with Michael Allen

 
Michael Allen, model for studio_805

What goes through your mind when you are on the catwalk? 
I just try to blank everything out!

How long have you been modelling for?
4 years
How did you get into it?
I helped a friend out and it all took off from there
What do you think of the Vauxhal Fashion Scout?
Love it!
What do you do, when you are not strutting across the catwalk?
I am an Engineer in Leeds
What did you have for breakfast?
Scrambled eggs and some porridge
How much do you work out?
Everyday for two hours, except weekends
How do feel about wearing so much make up? 
I don't mind it
Who is your favourite designer?
Vivienne Westwood, she is the one that made me fashion conscious.

Interview by Crystal Birch

Image: Eddie Blagbrough

Theatre de la Mode

Menswear Day at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was full of creativity and flair, especially up in the Presentation Hall where Studio 805 and Theatre De La Mode were both exhibiting their latest collections. Once Studio 805 had finished their static installation, seats were taken for Theatre De La Mode’s fashion/dance film, ‘Physical Culture.’ Christopher Kelly, creative director of the brand, is known for his lavish and innovating ways of presenting his collections, and this year he did not disappoint.  Kelly took inspiration for the film from the energetic style of the nineties, and the obvious African influence resulted in a playful and colourful film, where models stood rigid as others danced around them. Geometric prints and shapes were overlaid on top of the models creating colour, vibrancy and movement.

As always, Theatre De La Mode stuck to their signature oversized style, featuring printed silk shirts and matching shorts in a palette of tangerine, oatmeal and coral. Drawstring gathered waists and heavy draping were added to create the relaxed daytime look that is key to the brands aesthetic. Another successful season at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for Kelly and his artisan fashion label.

Jennifer Hore

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

studio_805

Wednesday’s presentation hall opened up with the Andrew Bannister show for his studio_805 label. Once again the designer aimed to shock and provoke with his innovative designs.

This time the English-born designer played around with the idea of gender within a Hoghart inspired landscape... A bold move which payed off.

The presentation featured ten models, all shapes and sizes, males and females, wearing a distinctive feature of fake red lips which screamed “LOOK AT ME, AND ONLY ME!” The collection featured baggy-loose fitting designs of hoodies, tracksuits and vests layered over flesh coloured and electric blue tights.

Bannister, who is best known for the theatrical manner presented his collection, with one of the models having pink tights, pulled over her head and face. The key pieces featured a suit inspired design with oversized shoulders and harem pants, covering any signs of natural silhouettes. Branded for his use of bold and distinctive patterns, the designer used a range of asymmetric and rectangular designs in blues, browns and pinks, worked in a variety of man-made fabrics.

To sum it up, unless you’re a part of an underground Soho club scene, the pieces might not be exactly for you. However, if you’re a stylist… well then it was a dream come true.

Raf Jaworski

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

Satyenkumar

Satyenkumar painted the catwalk in a wash of watercolour-esque tones and sheer fabrics this morning with a collection that epitomised clean, cool summer dressing for the boys.

The Central saint Martins graduate has polished his signature sharp tailoring, working in light as air Swiss Voile and Tulle for crisp shirts, paired with perfectly cut twill trousers in denim inspired indigo. Just the ticket for the times when jeans are too casual and suit trousers too formal.

The collection entitled “Reflection through a lens” took inspiration from kaleidoscopic refractions, culminating in a subtle digital print that was used to great effect in particular on lightweight outerwear.

Contrasting textured panels of silk and satin added interest, as did pops of azure, primary yellow, lipstick pink and coral - in their most wearable forms when paired with muted pastels of dove greys and soft lavender.

Styled with super-shiny slicked hair and bold rectangular sunnies, Sayenkumar’s collection will appeal to modern dandies with a predisposition towards the luxurious and the mildly eccentric – they can find the current collection stocked in Oki-ni and Daniel Jenkins.

Hannah Kane

Images: David Coleman

Live Catwalk illustration at Komakino by Cat Patterson

Live catwalk illustration at Satyenkumar by Carmine Napolitano

Backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Menswear Day

Images by: Rachel Hippolyte

Fashion Awareness Direct on the runway

The end of a very hectic Tuesday evening and Vauxhall Fashion Scout hosted the much anticipated FAD (Fashion Awareness Direct) awards. Twenty three finalists paraded their designs down the catwalk in front of a very eager crowd including VIP’S, Naomi Dominique (Design Director, River Island), Francesca Muston (Retail Editor, WGSN.com) and many more from the jury team. The theme this season was ‘Arts & Crafts for a modern age. Citing musical muses.’ and the young students did not fail to impress, creating outstanding designs in just five days. An array of colours, fabrics and creations were strutted down the runway by ghostly looking models sporting very big, frizzy disco hair. The atmosphere was electric with music pumping from the likes of Lady Gaga, Lady Sovereign and Jamaican beats from Allison Hinds.

So, who walked away with the prizes? An extremely shocked Elizabeth Prince (Pendleton College, Salford) won the ‘Illustration Prize,’ Egle Zepkinaite (City & Islington College) won the ‘Research Prize’ – her design being a wonderful rustic, orange and gold party dress with an enormous bow on the shoulder. The ‘Pattern Cutting Prize’ went to Lily Harriman, (Camden School for Girls) who was the master behind the grey and pink evening dress that was accompanied with one rather large flower corsage. Miriam Mwangi picked up the (Creativity Award) with her ever-so colourful rainbow party dress with more ruffles than you can imagine.

But who was the overall winner? Katerina Drury was the lucky girl who won a placement with Volt Magazine. Drury’s work ethic and her unique icy blue leotard-type dress together with lycra leggings wowed the judges. A fantastic spectacle for the FAD’s fifth birthday!

Emma Shiggins 

Feature images: David Coleman
Round up images: Eddie Blagbrough

Street style outside Romeo Pires - Marcel Corte & Bruno Boleiveir

Name: Marcel Corte and Bruno Boleiveir
Occupations: Graphic designer and art director
What Inspires you at the moment? Everything we see and music...keep your eyes open!

Image: Yumi Yoshinaga

Getting the Benefit - tips from creative directors Rachel Wood and Lan Nguyen

Rachel Wood, the effervescent Benefit celebrity Make-up Artist has created looks for a number of designers this week including Harriet's Muse and Alice Palmer. She confided that the new trends emerging from the shows are metallic eyes, in particular copper and bronze shades. The contouring of the cheeks has also become a key look, she recommended the Hoola Bronzing Powder (Benefit £22.50 ) to really pull this look off to the max, "its like spanx (TM) for the face". It has no shimmer in it so works really well to shape the cheek.



Fellow creative director Lan Nguyen, the London-based self-taught makeup artist is celebrated for her edgy make-up looks on the runways. She was in the midst of working on the Romeo Pires show where she had created a show stopping Biba influenced strong eye look. She used a dark eye shadow to create a half circle on the eye lid (try Benefits Smokin' eyes £26.50, a handbag friendly kit with, amongst others, sexy dark shadow colours as well as brow shaping wax and mini tweezers ) finished off with wildly thick false lashes to add shape.


Tips of the trade…

• For an alluring shine on the shoulder Rachel suggests trying Benefit’s great “Hot Minute” face powder (£23.50).

• Rachel likes to use light products very heavily, and heavy products lightly - use Benefits Play Stick (£25.00) with a blusher brush for a very light and flawless finish. Then use Benefit’s “High Beam” (£16.50) very liberally as a great highlighter.

• Lan predicts a geometric trend emerging from this week, strong brows, no powder with lots of rose gold and peach colours predominating.

Gia Mills
Image: Eddie Blagbrough

Style Tips from the Expert - Tamara Cincik

Stylist for Romeo Pires, Tamara Cincik gives VFS an insight into S/S 10 trends, and gives us some tips for updating our S/S10 wardrobes.

What trends have you noticed emerging from LFW so far?

Supermodel Goddess glamour and rave-tastic fun.

What is the look for Romeo Pires this season?

Pop art and surrealism.

How can you translate the look from the catwalk to your wardrobe?

Take pop art elements and the idea of the shirt dress and combine the brogue with the dress to create that Alexa Chung silhouette.

What is your favourite outfit from the Romeo Pires S/S 10 collection?

The black shirt dresses, one of which has corset detail to it, which is very interesting - it makes it very sexy.

Interview by Laura Chatterton
Image by Eddie Blagbrough

The Fashion Scout loves Fashion Awareness Direct

Fashion Awareness Direct, FAD, is a creative charity which helps youngsters leave their mark on the fashion industry, by giving them the tools and teaching them the skills they need to succeed. Vauxhall Fashion Scout showcased the twenty-two finalists from Fashion Futures 2, with a catwalk show late Tuesday night, but it was in the presentation hall where all the hard work and behind-the-scenes action was displayed. The champagne reception allowed all of the guests to browse through sketchbooks filled with illustrations, inspirations and the design process all of the young creative went through.

The finalists were all picked by a panel of industry experts; including Naomi Dominique (Design Director, River Island), Francesca Muston (Retail Editor, WGSN), Michael Tomczak (Head of Design, John Lewis), Lesley DeFreitas (Lecturer, Central Saint Martins) and Maria Alvarez (Executive Director, FAD).   Ten students from North-London, ten from South-London and three from Salford were able to go onto the summer school at Central Saint Martin’s and their big catwalk debut at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Fashion Futures 2 is open to 16-18 year olds living in London, and teaches them a fun but realistic insight into what it means to work within the fashion industry after completing their education.

Jennifer Hore

Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, Group Creative Director of Toni & Guy - sponsor of Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, daughter of the great Toni Mascolo - founder  of Toni  & Guy tells The Fashion Scout why she loves LFW, ‘It’s absolutely brilliant. I always, always love it. This year's obviously been a big change as well, with it being 25 years old and the new Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, it’s a great location and great new venue.’

Interview by: Laura Chatterton

Image by: Yumi Yoshinaga

Romeo Pires

Romeo, Romeo, where for art thou Romeo?  Why, at Vauxhall Fashion Scout of course, for the continuation of our love affair with the Anglo-Brazillian duo Nicholas Humphrey and Sergio Pires’ cult label Romeo Pires. 

The mood was light and airy; the show opening with billowing white draped shirts complete with 2-d bows, as models strolled down the catwalk to the sound of raindrops.  Influences ranged from a very modern, and sophisticated clown to the monochrome palette of the harlequin.  The colour scheme soon changed, as black and white gave way to a watercolour spectrum of ochres, olive greens, ambers and saffrons. 

Romeo Pires sent out a powerful statement; one of a powerful femininity softened with a subtle romanticism present in the floaty, oversized shirt dresses.  Why, Romeo, art thou mad?  Maybe a little, but we love you anyway.

Louise Hemmings

Images: David Coleman

Backstage at Romeo Pires

Images by Seun Shote

LF Markey

LF Markey displayed a diverse presentation like no other, where sports meets prom. On entering, guests were welcomed by seductive, colourful lighting, glasses of wine and subtle beats. Garments were suspended from rails even with no bodies to fill them they were full of life. It must have been the spectrum of colour that Markey used throughout her collection, which ranged from bright oranges, golden yellows and sky blues.

The most outstanding pieces had to be the big, puffball ‘prom’ dresses, which made you feel just for that moment like you were walking around Disneyland. Each dress had an accompanying coloured back-drop making them look like very important museum pieces. The crowd was loud, gossiping and admiring the pieces, until the lights darkened and silence sealed the room.

Everyone’s attention turned to the big screen “The Ball” in big lettering, a loud, heavy breathing filled the hall, spectators waited in anticipation for the film to begin. For what felt like a life-time the quite intimidating heavy breathing continued. Techno beats kicked in and there we witnessed one of the most glamorous basketball games to date! Models paced or rather raged around the court in Markey’s prom dresses (one comprising of a long trail), short layered dresses and loosely fitting, stripy, lycra shirts all fighting for, wait for it…..a sequined ball! It had a slightly comical feel to it, but I do think we all wanted to get back into sports after witnessing such a fabulous game. All in all a successful game, I mean presentation from Louise Markey. I caught up with Louise at the end to catch a few words, “Yes I am so pleased, I was trying a new media, a new way to present. I think it went down well, well it’s a bit different so, great!” 

Emma Shiggins

Feature image: Eddie Blagbrough

Other images: Seun Sote and Eddie Blagbrough

Live Catwalk illustration at Romeo Pires by Cat Patterson

Sunday Highlights from Fashion Scout TV

Film maker: Mikey Williamson

Presented by: Johnny Lazer

Music by: Paul Gala

William Tempest

William Tempest, February’s Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner, is back with more of what he does best, sculptural shapely dresses.  He bravely moved on from the digital prints of last season, working mostly manipulating fabrics.

Tempest added fins to everything until the dresses felt like a ‘50s Cadillac! Frocks with straps and bands were like reworked bondage trousers playing peek-a-boo with thighs and shoulders. The one print consisted of dancing and prancing women and was used on sweeping floor-length dresses.  A heavily boned one-piece swimsuit drew gasps because of its Jessica Rabbit proportions and plunging neckline.

Like at Mark Fast, William Tempest chose to use a plus sized model, cementing plus-size models as a regular fixture at London Fashion Week.

Without Tempest’s crystalline digital prints he relied a lot more on colour, sensuous minks and bright corals mixed with black and white adding punch to his already sharp summer dresses. Silky lame fabrics added a touch of look-at-me luxury to floor length dresses. It’s clear to see why Tempest is the new name on the block when starlets and pop princesses need a headline grabbing red carpet frock.

Isabelle O’Carroll

Images: David Coleman

Colin McDowell at the William Tempest show

“The show was lovely.  It was fun, it was strong.  I loved the bronze.  William has really come on this season.”

Colin McDowell, Senior fashion writer at the Sunday Times’ Style

Louise Hemmings

Live catwalk illustration at Belle Sauvage by Evmorfia Bethanis

Jessica Bumpus from vogue.com

“William Tempest is so talented; he has really interesting ideas.  I love the cut and structure of what he does.  There are millions of people here, some of whom have been queuing since eight pm!  I’m very excited about it.  And the new venue is so impressive!  It’s really upped the ante.”

 

Jessica Bumpus from vogue.com, front row at the William Tempest show

 

Louise Hemmings

Dr Frances Corner from London College of Fashion

“We’re so proud of William.  He was at the London College of Fashion so we are very pleased to support him.  I’m looking forward to seeing some more really good tailoring and some exciting shapes with regards to the way he constructs the dresses.”  

 

Dr Frances Corner, Dean of London College of Fashion

 

Louise Hemmings

T4's Jameela Jamil at William Tempest

She might be new to fashion week but T4 presenter Jameela Jamil knows a good goodie bag when she sees one.  “I don’t drink so I haven’t been making the most of the champagne but the goodie bags are great; my mum is loving those when I take them home,” she said last night before William Tempest’s show.  Perched on the front row, what does she think of the talented young designer?  “I love him!  He is amazing. It’s so nice to see a bloke designing clothes for women, curvy girls as well!  Bring on the curves; they represent real women.”

 

Louise Hemmings

Caryn Franklin front row at William Tempest

"William Tempest for me is a very watchable name. He was featured in the All Walks Beyond The Catwalk exhibition which Vauxhall Fashion Scout have been involved with so we had a very close bond with him. He has been using curvy models in his catwalks which is so important. All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is a campaign about diversity amongst young designers so we can see them working with a range of models in all ages and sizes. We are very interested in seeing how William’s show pans out. "

Caryn Franklin, All Walks Beyond the Catwalk founder, front row at William Tempest

Louise Hemmings

Judith Rosser-Davies - London Development Agency

“We were so excited by Vauxhall Fashion Scout because they add in things which are really important to designers, the sort of things they really need to have within the venue. One of the things we put funding towards was the press room because we thought this was absolutely key. Vauxhall Fashion Scout is much more than a venue; there’s a lot of brilliant stuff here as well.”

Judith Rosser-Davies from the London Development Agency at the William Tempest show

Louise Hemmings

Live catwalk illustration at Fashion Shenzhen by Regina N'day

Live catwalk illustrations at Ziad Ghanem by Anastasia Vodennikova

The Fashion Scout TV at Alexandra Groover

Alexandra Groover film by Ed Thomas

Fashion Scout TV film maker: Mikey Williamson 

Ziad Ghanem

Another day, another show.  And this time it was hard to know where the catwalk ended and the front row began with Ziad Ghanem attracting London’s most outrageously dressed characters; from ‘social chemist’ Daniel Lismore to infamous drag queen Lady Lloyd and French Vogue cover star Andre J. 

Ghanem hoped to turn the American Dream into a British Reality, and his collection reflected an era of youthful optimism and a future full of promise.  In collaboration with Firetrap, Ghanem sent out a stream of fierce models adorned with a collection of tattoos, piercings and dreadlocks.  Denim put in an appearance in the form of patchwork skirts and dresses, funked up using a variety of different shades.  Cropped statement t-shirts perfectly complemented jauntily angled skirts and harem pants with vibrant dashes of neon adding an electric vibe to the collection. 

Ghanem’s collection seemed to have matured in comparison to previous collections, and will doubtless provide inspiration for countless generations of club kids.

Louise Hemmings

Images: David Coleman