The Fashion Scout: 09/08

Saturday, 14 September 2013

COLLECTION| Tahir Sultan SS14

Designer Tahir Sultan graduated in fashion knitwear from Central Saint Martins in 2007. After being recommended by the haute couture at Dior, Tahir launched his own label. And it’s a good job that he did- his contemporary womenswear line is a mixture of avant-garde dresses and sharp tailoring, embodying the feel of the 1940s and 50s with a modern twist.

Tahir’s SS14 collection picks up where last season left off with an emphasis on old world charm and new age chic. The embroideries are fused with vivid colours and avant-garde draping helps create a vibrant and playful collection. Modern day silhouettes are combined with old school romanticism, a twist of tribalism and a large dose of glamour.

The collection includes everything from embroidered suits to cocktail dresses with quirky cuts, eye-catching prints and flashes of neon. Rich shimmering metallics, skirts with fishtail detailing, towering glittery courts and bright punchy lips completed the playful looks.

Not forgetting that the Tahir woman is also powerful, suit-wearing and effeminate as shown by the super chic tailored separates with spurred embellishments.

Opulent, beautiful detailing and an incredible colour palette- the final show of day 2 at London Fashion Week did not disappoint.

By Georgia Hathaway, Contributor. Follow me on Twitter: @GeorgiaHathaway

Photography by Jamike Latif @JamikeLatif and Grace Sanchez @GracyPhotograph

BACKSTAGE| Tahir Sultan SS14

This September we welcomed back Tahir Sultan for his SS14 collection.

The Central Saint Martins graduate is renowned for his exaggerated pleating and ruching on unusual silhouettes. Due to the avant-garde nature of the clothing, Tahir’s make-up and hair accompaniment has to be subtle and enhancing. We went backstage to view what look Tahir would choose to harmonise with his contemporary garments.

Warm orange lips and musky eyes perfectly complimented Tahir's constructed drapes. The upbeat lip colour contrasted beautifully with Tahir's subdued colour palette and agreed with this season’s patterns and embellishments.

A sophisticated and chic up-do was an ideal choice and added furthers shape to Tahir's carefully constructed silhouettes.

By Emily Black, @emilyy_black

Photos by Jean-Luc Brouard

FRONT ROW| Exclusive Interview with Zaha Hadid

Fashion Scout showcases each season in the historical Freemasons Hall on Great Queen Street. For the final show of day two, Tahir Sultan; architect and designer Zaha Hadid paid a visit to the venue to support the architect turned fashion designer. Well renown for designing icons such as the London 2012 Aquatics Centre; the multiple award winner and founder of Zaha Hadid Architects also has lesser known fashion related projects in her portfolio, such as collaborations with Lacoste and the Brazilian brand Melissa on innovative footwear capsule collections. We spoke to Hadid before the start of the show on the reciprocal influence of and oscillation between the fashion and architectural industries.

What do you think of the building as a location for a fashion show?

I think it's an interesting building but of course, it has certain connotations that are, you know, magic. I mean for the period it's art deco, very ornate, but the whole idea of the temple I think is for me...I'm glad these buildings are being used for these shows.

The environment we live in can inspire the design of garments that we wear on a daily basis, but is it ever the other way round? Is the relationship between fashion and architecture symbiotic?

I think there is a connection, I think with architecture; it's about how you move in space. And I think clothes and garments are how you move within the space of the garment, and how it fits you. The whole structure of a building; they're not the same in any way, pattern making, the structure of shoes and clothes, but there is a connection. I think there is a visual connection as well. I mean I lived in London in the 80s when everything was about costume, you know it wasn't about fashion it was about projecting yourself through the way you dress and the way you look, and I think many people do things for the same reasons. So there are many connections.

What has brought you to the Fashion Scout Tahir Sultan SS14 collection presentation?

I know the designer, I know Tahir Sultan because I knew his parents, I was very close friends with one of his aunts and when he came to London and he went to the AA, The School of Architecture, I knew him then as well and i'm glad he has done this.

By Madeleine Ayers, contributor. Follow her on Twitter: @MadeleineAyers

Photography by Jamike Latif @JamikeLatif

COLLECTION| Liz Black SS14

Created in 2010, the Liz Black label reflects conceptual creativity with a minimal and elegant aesthetic. Its focus is on the wearable statement pieces with a timeless appeal, emphasising chic and impeccably tailored structures that complement the feminine silhouette.

For SS14, Central Saint Martins graduate Liz Black presents her sixth ready-to-wear collection entitled “Perceive/Deceive”.

Optical prints and Liz’s further experimentation with form and structure distort the visual and the physical to create a sensation of depth, texture and movement. Sleek silhouettes and structural pieces combine to accentuate the female form, drawing you in and constantly surprising with deceptive detail and effects, while staying true to the minimalist and elegant aesthetic for which Liz is known.

Liz’s signature abstract prints mesh seamlessly with a bold colour palette that incorporates a wide spectrum of blues, yellows, greens and greys to make each piece a unique work of art.

Liz has succeeded in producing an interesting and thought-provoking collection of statement pieces for the independent, fashion-forward woman.

Follow us on Twitter @FashionScout #FashionScout

By Georgia Hathaway, Contributor. Follow me on Twitter: @GeorgiaHathaway.
Photography by Jamike Latif @JamikeLatif

BACKSTAGE| Liz Black SS14

Liz Black Backstage

The creative process is in full swing backstage at Liz Black and following Liz Black’s incredible AW13 collection inspired by both the innocence and chaos of Lewis Caroll’s fantasy world, Alice in Wonderland; her SS14 collection is destined to be impressive.

The Liz Black woman is sophisticated, independent and cosmopolitan – an intellectual and empowered woman. With this in mind both The Body Shop and Tony&Guy teams have been working hard to achieve the perfect aesthetic for today’s exhibition in the Prince Regent room at Freemasons Hall.

The Body Shop have opted for strong geometrical lines and heavy contouring. Eyebrows are blocked and shadow comes in the shape of bold Cobalt Blue and The Body Shop Colour Crush shadow in ‘Blue Over You’, to complement the colors used in the collection. Cheek bones are highlighted and lips are high-gloss.

Alongside The Body Shop, Tony&Guy have also been working closely with the collection in order to mirror the pattern on the garments, in the hair. The concept of movement and the illusion of movement play a big part in Liz’s SS14 collection, so texture and separation are the key components to the final style.

By Brooke McCord, Fashion Scout Contributor, Follow me on Twitter @BrookeMcCord

Photographs by Jamike Latif @JamikeLatif

COLLECTION| Alessia Prekop SS14

On day two of London Fashion Week, here at Freemasons Hall we have witnessed a multitude of talents showcased, including new contemporary womenswear designer - Alessia Prekop’s SS14 collection this afternoon.

With a brand aesthetic centering around architectural influences and modern street style driven inspirations, Alessia’s collection encompasses geometric clean-cut lines, innovative textured fabric compilations, exaggerated silhouettes and a strong emphasis on the female form.

Details came in the shape of precision pleats, delicate ruffles and leather trims. Elegant luxe wear was made dynamic, through the use of accentuated shoulders and cocoon shapes, using silk and wool crepe. Coats and jackets played a key role in the collection, cropped, kimono and peplum styles were explored. The colour palette was predominantly monochromatic and neutral, with hints of powdery pastels, perfect for spring. The highest level of craftsmanship was evident in each individual piece.

Written by Brooke McCord, Fashion Scout contributor. Follow me on Twitter at @BrookeMcCord

Photography by Tracy Asslanian @TracyAsslanian

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