Stefan Orschel Read and Ada Zanditon
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Friday, 26 February 2010
A Child of the Jago
Above: Vivienne Westwood, below: designers Simon Armitage and Joe Corre
Shot with a Flip Video
Having spent the majority of my week at The Freemasons' Hall either entranced in a show or presentation, or hunched over my laptop in the media centre I was starting to feel the cabin fever. With the team behind Vauxhall Fashion Scout in charge of production at the A Child of the Jago show I eagerly volunteered myself to cover it on the final day of fashion week.
The vision behind the label was there from the off set, the raw red brick underground East End location, a man playing a wind up music box, wooden benches and a live band.
Vivienne Westwood was front row with Janet Jackson a few seats up. With the cameras flashing and the final people taking their seats the band started. Consisting of a tambourine playing singer and sheepish guitar player they offered up a raucous set to those waiting for the show. Lyrics included ‘I am bringing fashion from the north, its traveled a long way so it’s a little bit soiled’ or my personal favourite ‘If he is looking through your window with a spanner, he’s a plumber.’
The collection was signature Jago with logo printed tops and the Victorian slum life as inspiration. Longer length artisan baggy shirts styled with bracers, silk neckerchiefs and low slung jumpers.
The tailored suit was also prominent throughout, woolen check fabric with flecks of metallic stripes as well as the businessman's pin stripe. An elegant gentleman dressed casually with leather driving gloves and denim shoes.
A white denim boiler suit, velvet dungarees and a male model in suspenders and leather bomber jacket added a younger look along with the punk rock hairstyles and dark eye make-up.
A couple of womenswear outfits were added to the collection including a leather long sleeved leotard and a black and white minstrel body.
Hats were also key with a selection from berets to bowler hats to studded baker boy caps to a golden turban.
Joe Corre and Simon Armitage's menswear appeals to all, if you go from the models in the show including family and friends of the designers (Corre's brother Ben Westwood walked), it is an eccentric gentleman of any age.
Words: Emma Drinnan
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Thursday, 25 February 2010
Vox pops at Prophetik
JEFF GARNER - PROPHETIK post show vox pops LFW2010 from Jonathan Clabburn on Vimeo.
Hear what Hilary Alexander, Mademoiselle Robot, Jessica Bumpus from Vogue.com, Jimmy Choo, Tom Jeffreys, Jeffrey Louis-Reed and WGSN’s Rachel Arthur had to say straight after the Prophetik show.
Wednesday, 24 February 2010
Did you see the shoe?
Just moments before the final show of Vauxhall Fashion Scout kicked off, we bumped into our fabulous photographer friend NK outside the Orschel-Read show. “Made it down from your studio?” we chirped. And since he had front row tickets and we were in the back, he agreed to let us snap his Blackberry after the show. As we, sadly, did not see the shoe.
Orschel-Read
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Inspired by the subtle beauty of female birds, early William Morris prints and the ceiling murals of Stockholm’s Storkyrkan Cathedral, Stefan Orschel-Read headlined the menswear day at Vauxhall Fashion Scout with a collection that fused exquisite British tailoring with a distictly exotic part Scandinavian hunter, part Shaolin warrior vibe.
Muted prints included dusky pink roses reminiscent of Japanese watercolours, faded polka dots and intricate graphic landscapes juxtaposed with heavier earth tones of ethically sourced tweed. Chunky knits in shades of ember brown were worked into relaxed lounge trousers, and an aristocratic equestrian theme could be seen in the contrast panelled breeches and accents of burgundy saddle leather.
Muted prints included dusky pink roses reminiscent of Japanese watercolours, faded polka dots and intricate graphic landscapes juxtaposed with heavier earth tones of ethically sourced tweed. Chunky knits in shades of ember brown were worked into relaxed lounge trousers, and an aristocratic equestrian theme could be seen in the contrast panelled breeches and accents of burgundy saddle leather.
The collection presented everything from the eminently wearable to more directional showpieces such as those displaying exaggerated wing-like sleeves. A cohesive and covetable collection that marks Orschel-Read as a rising star on the menswear scene.
Words: Hannah Kane
Images: David Coleman
Komakino
The press release for the Komakino runway show provided members of the audience with an aggressive introduction to the brand, “A lot of people say Komakino isn’t anything new; that a lot of designers work leather and black with a militant attitude. That’s ignorant [..] the fact that Komakino do it better is what matters.”
Pretty heavy stuff for spectators to ponder as the show got under way. The colours and fabrics used in the collection were as promised: leather and black, but presented in a distinctive way. The clean and sharp silhouettes were a treat for the eye, with tight peg leg jeans, superbly tailored coats and jackets that incorporated both leather and cotton based textiles.
Some jackets sported rounded aerodynamic shoulders and from others hung nylon suspenders. There were some interesting leather accessories as well in the form of face masks and four-finger rings. Some pieces featured an occasional print and for those who needed a momentary break from black, there was a shirt or two in cream and beige. The winners in the collection were two knitted woollen capes that entranced the audience as they moved down the catwalk which juxtaposed from the more militant silhouettes that had preceded them. Judging from their collection this season, Komakino have a clear vision of their male client- a strong, striking character, who, in their own words, “may be over physical violence but still want to wear their commitment to the struggle for a good life on their sleeve.”
Words: Jess Whyte
Images: David Coleman
Backstage at Ada Zanditon: Efi Davies, Head Stylist with Toni & Guy
What inspired the hair styling for the Ada Zandition show?
"We wanted to achieve was a very young and playful feel, creating quite a bit of texture, and then to keep it fresh we are swapped everything to one side and swept it in to a figure of eight twist. We created a very matted texture, but contrasted this with a beautiful sweeping wave at the front.
We didn’t want to overpower the clothes and swept hair aside a little to show the beautiful detailing on the shoulders of some of the garments."
What are the hair trends for Autumn/Winter 2010?
"The quick fix, ‘bad hair day’ plait is sticking around, it's quick, it's easy and always looks great so it is something the consumers will definitely wear. Also tampering with texture, a chemically over-processed, messy look… and colours definitely, pastel colours are coming in, blues, pinks and silvery tones that certainly reflect some of the forthcoming collections."
What do you think of the support Vauxhall Fashion Scouts gives up and coming designers?
"It’s fantastic, it gives them a platform to showcase their creativity and potential and gain exposure that could launch their careers."
Why is it important for Toni and Guy to be involved with that process?
"When we welcome designers we get inspired, pick up on new trends and can be apart creating a new trend. Toni and guy have a great understanding of worldwide fashion and how fashion and hair relate and interact. We take that and put it in to our education and so it’s a circle that never stops."
Words: Christine Pettman
Image: Eddie Blagbrough
Words: Christine Pettman
Image: Eddie Blagbrough
studio_805
Wind machines and a soundtrack of blizzards being played set the atmosphere and the collection carried on the wintry theme. One female and five male models stood around the well-lit edge and as spectators circled the inside.
Pale blue fleecy jumpsuit with white snowflakes printed all over styled with brown pilot goggles. A dark blue denim harem romper covered in long white ribbons was blowing in the wind. An a-line gathered neck white shirt worn over thick white long-johns. The shirt was covered in fringing detail made of plastic beads hanging from shoulders and in a headpiece like a patch over the eye.
Blue camouflage baggy trousers over a hooded and gloved blue Lycra all in one. White harnesses cover the torso like a faux rucksack, while a chunky plastic white zip is wrapped around the face. The fetish dream continued with a silver liquid lame gimp suit with gloved feet and mask. Now I know where I have been going wrong in the freezing temperatures outside, I wasn’t wearing a studio_805 all in one.
Words: Emma Drinnan
Images: Kristen Blow
Images: Kristen Blow
Braille
Rising menswear stars Benjamin Vorono and Samuel Kientsch aka Braille held their first presentation here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout today after being exhibiting designers through out the week.
The collection is beautiful and exquisitely made with almost all materials being sourced in the UK. Luxurious wools form Yorkshire sit alongside shirting from the midlands and cotton from Scotland. All the fabrics used are natural materials including salmon fish skin, a by-product of the food industry, which was used to create one of the most unique and beautiful shirt collars seen at fashion week. The guys plan an accessories line using this unusual material next season.
Shirts are finished with delicate mother of pearl and horn buttons, which give everyday wearable items a subtle elegance.
The most coveted item has to be the stunningly simple waxed cotton cape with wool lining. Like many of the items it has been designed for practicality but with a stylish twist.
They told us “you should be able to have functional clothes that you can wear and still be quite elegant…we’re trying to make things that we want to wear and that guys would be attracted to.”
Wool cycling trousers paneled with the waxed cotton featured throughout the collection - perfect to wipe away any puddle splashes.
The colour palette of burnt orange, turquoise and mid brown lifted the black.
The collection is tactile and textural and looks set to be a huge success. We can’t wait to see what this talented young duo come back with next time.
Words: Kelly Morris
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
The fabulous Vauxhall Fashion Scout crew
Che, a final year Fashion Communication student at John Moore University in Liverpool, has been working at Vauxhall Fashion Scout all Week. “I’ve been moving chairs and being polite to people”. Che’s highlights of the week has been meeting the designers and, of course, networking, darling.
Stacey gets to seat all the VFS-VIP’s in the main catwalk hall. “This is where all the new talent is, especially at Ones to Watch. The details are so crisp and clean!” We expect that she’ll go back into her fashion design class at Westminster Uni bursting with excitement and new ideas.
Down at the Lean Green Bean Machine, Michele is whipping up lattes for demanding fashionistas, models and crew. When questioned about which frocks have rocked his boat, he jovially replied, “I’m not into fashion, so for me it’s all been good!”
Working on the door, JC, a Marketing and Photography student at East London Uni, has found the excitement of the ‘door-bustle’ of Vauxhall Fashion Scout thrilling and stressful (but in a good way).
Words: Leigh Keily
Illustrations: Hana Termanini
Beekay
Beekay’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection was inspired by trees, looking at their round circumferences and the shapes made from the branches. “I wanted to challenge myself by using a very simple starting point and seeing what I could do with it, and how I could develop it.” Evidence of how the circular tree trunk has inspired the collection is clear in the structure of the garments, everything is round: the hoods, the panelling and zips. Usually inspired by a story, Beekay used the pressure he felt for a second collection and cycle of his thoughts as a point of inspiration.
The collection is entirely black, broken up by denim trousers coated with latex glue to add a silver sheen, and a frenzy of YKK zips. YKK, the globally recognized zip company, have played a key part in assisting Beekay’s current collection and he is due to sign with them for further involvement in the future. The jackets and t-shirts are made from suede and jersey to create a very comfortable, wearable collection.
After working three seasons for Aminaka Wilmont, there is definite evidence of how this influenced Beekay, not just in the grungy, moody tone of the collection but also the use of print, which you can see in his t-shirts, and leather. Julius Garden, Beekays favourite menswear designer, has helped mould his designs in to a distinctive, experimental and wearable brand.
Beekay explained how the work of Vauxhall Fashion Scout is important platform when it comes to showing menswear as an up and coming designer, “I’m really happy with all the support and exposure and I’m looking forward to showing with them again next season.” His next collection is remaining under wraps although Beekay hinted that “bugs” may be an element of his next concept.
Words: Christine Pettman
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
The gossip at studio_805
Name: Sandra Blanco
Occupation: Hostess
Name: Andrew Banister
Occupation: Designer of Studio 805
What is your perfect goody bag?
“Sweets always…. and lots of surprises!”
Name: Akiko Takamura
Occupation: Editorial Assistant for YSH
What is your perfect goody bag?
“Shiny hair products and something to eat is always crucial!”
Words: Liljana Pajovic
Images: Kristen Blow
Vox pops front row at William Tempest
James Brown (left)
"I think Vauxhall Fashion Scout is phenomenal, the space is phenomenal, I love that it’s short, sweet, it’s packed at every show, it’s just great, great, great! It’s one of the most professional shows I’ve encountered in the last 5 years. Everyone’s so organised, everyone’s nice, everyone knows what they’re doing, it’s brilliant. I love that it’s a bit green too; there’s recycling bins everywhere, the catwalk’s recycled, it’s really good."
Peaches Geldof (middle)
"I really like William Tempest's work he is so good at manipulating fabrics. I think its great what VFS do, you have your established names but fashion is all about moving forward and seeing other things."
Louise Roe (right)
"I thought he was going to win Fashion Fringe and when he didn’t I was really shocked, I interviewed him afterwards and said ‘you are gonna be a big star’. He was so lovely and I remember being blown away by his show. Then Emma Watson and Victoria Beckham wore his stuff those people have the choice of every designer in the world and the fact they picked him is just indicative of how talented he really is I think he will do very well he is already on the road to success.
What Vauxhall Fashion Scout does is so crucial, London does it better than any city, Fashion Scout is amazing, there just aren’t the platforms anywhere else in the world. I think that is why our up and coming talent is so supported and so well received, to me it's such a London thing. London Fashion Week wouldn’t be the same without Vauxhall Fashion Scout. I love working with up and coming innovative designers like Vauxhall Fashion Scout do, I always write down their designer's names and contact them. I enjoy fashion week more now as I have time to look forward to seeing my favourite designers and have time to reflect on the shows when I use to cover every show I didn’t have time to sit back and enjoy the shows I wanted to see like William."
Escala, The electronic string quartet
From left to right Izzy Johnston, Chantal Leverton, Tasya Hodges, Victoria Lyon.
"We are all fans, the womanly shapes and Bond girl theme dresses, he makes dresses that are perfect for us when we perform on stage. This is the first proper catwalk show we have been to so it’s a real treat. We are going on tour next week with Katherine Jenkins and we are hoping to find something to wear."
Sophie Anderton
"I’m enjoying fashion week so much, it's been really good fun. Modelling for Harriet's Muse was fun I’m the face of them now so I am shooting their look book on Friday so that’s fantastic. Alice Palmer was amazing before but William is my pinnacle - I love off schedule much more than I like on schedule designers purely because you get to see the most innovative designers who are just so fresh. More established designers churn out the same sort of stuff all the time. I am really loving this there is such a great turn out this evening for his show I am so pleased for him."
Bleu, singer songwriter (right, pictured with Jeff Garner from Prophetik)
"I told Wiiliam I would wear his dress, I love it I’m so excited to see the show. He is one of my favourite designers. I make sure to attend all Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows and then I work in other designers. I love it here its got a nice vibe and I love the talent they spot. Its really cool. It was really packed at the door, everyone was yelling please let me in."
Words: Fiona Anderson and Emma Drinnan
Images: Leigh Keily
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