This season in the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom, we introduce a selection of the best design talents from Portugal.
The showroom is showcasing four of the most exciting designers Portugal has to offer, all ranging in unique styles, the curation places Portugal clearly as an important country to watch on the fashion design map.
CARLA PONTES
Carla Pontes' SS15 collection is a beautiful execution of modern feminine shapes. "Leaf for Spring" is inspired by the germination process and spring blooms, interpreted into natural abstract forms.
What is the inspiration behind this collection?
In the showroom we are showcasing two collections. One of them is called “Leaf for Spring”. It is inspired by the germination process when everything is about to bloom. It incorporates many natural elements. Some parts of the garments are united in very unusual ways to create the effect of the fabric wrapping the body in the same way that the petal wraps the flower.
What about the second collection?
The second collection we are showcasing is the SS15 collection, which is all about simplicity and the urban way of using colours. The clothes have a very straight cut and they incorporate a touch of sporty.
Where do you produce all your pieces?
It is all done in Portugal for practical reasons and to support the local industries.
DANIELA BARROS
Graduating from "EMP Oporto Fashion School in 2008, Daniela has since gained success by earning first place at "WHO's Next Blog" female collection in 2012. Daniela has a developed signature style bringing together urban and elegant elements, her pieces strike a balance between minimalism and oversized androgynous creations. For SS15 she also presents a desirably cool collection of accessories, in the form of leather backspaces and clutches.
What have you done in your newest collection?
The idea behind this collection is to destroy the classics and to rethink about form. It is also about the clash between who we are and who we think we are. The prints are inspired by the muscular system, but are presented in a more geometric way.
How would you describe the style of your designs?
The style is quite minimal. I always think more about the shape of the pieces rather than the prints. The fabrics I normally use are silk and leather but this season I have incorporated some technological fabrics which are produced using new techniques such as ceramics and special washes to make items look waxed.
Where do you source and produce your collections?
The fabrics are usually from Portugal, Spain and Italy. All production takes place in the north of Portugal where there is a manufacturing industry.
Are accessories a new product category for you?
Yes this is the first season I have bags in my collection. It made sense to have them. They are bags which can be used for many purposes. They have quite a clean structure and they are very good quality, they have lifetime warranty.
Joao Melo Costa injects a fun element into his womenswear, his SS15 collection features selection of shredded dresses conjuring ideas of flapper girls. His collection is full of exciting elements, from layering chiffon with leaves inserted delicately in-between, to laser cut bird shapes appliquéd to garments.
Your garments have very interesting textures. What have you worked on for this collection?
I make all the materials. In this collection there are four parts. The first part has real leaves, which I collected in Portugal and they are then bonded with two layers of silk chiffon. The second part has garden net, which is bonded with cotton interlining. The third part has laser cut birds bonded with linen fabric. Finally, the forth part has different layers and colours of silk organza to create the moving, flowing sense when worn.
So what is the story behind this collection?
The concept of this collection is about planting versus planning your life. So the four parts I mentioned previously, represent a stage in these processes. The first part of the collection showcases the process of checking the ground where you want to plant to see if there are any leaves. This reflects the introspection of a person who wants to start a new life so s/he needs to check what is happening in their life at that point in time. The second part is about cleaning out these leaves on the ground to have a clear field. Likewise, the person has to clear out what is happening inside of him/her in order to have a clean start. The third part of the collection reflects keeping away the birds so they don’t destroy the planting area in the same way that people need to keep away all the disturbances when they want to start a new life. Finally, the forth part showcases the flourishing of the plants and their growth. Similarly, it reflects the start of the person’s new life. Like in all of my collections, this also has a story that needs to be followed and respected in its sequence.
Is your collection produced in Portugal?
Yes both sourcing of materials and the manufacturing process are done in Portugal.
Abrunhosa cuts a strong, sensuous silhouette - with bright modern street wear influences. The up and coming brand, is created for women that seek effortless elegance and empowerment. A selection of kitschy prints inspired by B-series movies underlines the SS15 collection.
What is
your brand about?
It is about
femininity, a mix of prints and sensuality.
What is the
theme for your SS15 collection?
This
collection played on the theme of B-series, the “bad movies”. The prints
created for some of the pieces come from the names of such movies. I like the
idea of incorporating kitsch and tasteful pieces.
Do you tend
to use specific materials?
Every
season the materials used for the collections vary depending on the mood of the
collection and what I want to explore. SS15 has satins, sequins, muslins and
engraved leather.
All the designers collections are on display to visit in the Fashion Scout Paris Showroom; 23, Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004. The Fashion Scout Paris Showroom is open until the 30th September from 10am - 7pm daily (closing at 5pm on Tuesday 30th September).
