Pages

Friday 20 August 2010

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN SOLO EXHIBITION ‘1994 – 2010’ AT THE ISTANBUL MODERN



As part of the Istanbul 2010 European Capitol of Culture efforts the Istanbul Modern presents a catalogue of work, spanning from 1994 to present, by conceptual designer Hussein Chalayan.

Earlier this month I had the opportunity to visit the exhibition in the stunning cultural goldmine that is Istanbul. I was intrigued to say the least, if only to see what one of the worlds most forward thinking and controversial designers would select to represent himself in this given city.

I was without disappointment as, inevitably, the exhibition boasted a concise and engaging selection of his most interesting works and concepts. Along side mannequins adorned in Chalayan’s creations, huge projections looped a catalogue of his most innovative catwalk shows, the screens so large as they simulated a feeling of sitting front row at the actual event.

As a designer Chalayan epitomizes conceptual fashion, which is clear as his ideas stem from topics such as displacement, immigration and technological advancement. With a career dedicated to binding fashion and thought Chalayan deserves every praise for what is undoubtedly a directional and refreshing exhibition.


The exhibition runs until October 24th at the Istanbul Modern.




Lara Angol

Thursday 19 August 2010

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Exhibition Designers Announced



In addition to our catwalk and presentation schedule for this season we are pleased to reveal the list of designers taking part in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition. The list of designers exhibiting throughout London Fashion Week are...
  
A.Hallucination
Bolshie
Charlotte Taylor
Edward Finney
Eudon Choi
Florencia Kozuch
Georgia Hardinge
Hermione de Paula
James Hock
Katerina Levina
Katie Rowland
Kirsty Ward
LiLee
Martina Spetlova
Nancy Van Ostren
Rachel Freire
Tramp In Disguise
Una Burke
Yasmin Kianfar
YONG
Yorkshire Pearl
  

London Fashion Week
Fri 17th – Wed 21st Sep 2010
10:00 – 19:00

Prince Regent Hall
Freemasons’ Hall
Great Queen St, Covent Garden WC2

Vauxhall Fashion Scout LFW September 2010 Schedule




Vauxhall Fashion Scout are thrilled to announce our Catwalk and Presentation schedule for London Fashion Week September 2010.  This season’s events will deliver some of the most exciting emerging designers with over 30 shows, exhibitions and presentations stretching throughout the week. With both new additions to our schedule as well as strong returning talent this season is set to be more innovative and inspiring than ever!


(Click to enlarge) 


Wednesday 18 August 2010

An Interview with Una Burke…



Fashion and Art do not have to be placed into two separate categories as Una Burke has proved. As a graduate from the Fashion Artefact MA at London College of Fashion, Una creates what she describes as ‘wearable pieces of art’ - creations that are suitable for both the body and an exhibition stand, as demonstrated at the Vauxhall fashion scout exhibition space, during London Fashion Week last season. I met up with Una, earlier this week to find out what she’s been up to since and what she has in-store for us this season:


 As I enter Una’s studio in south London, I am greeted with the beautiful strong smell of leather that’s being emitted from various armour-like pieces dotted around the room. My eyes are drawn to one sculptural piece in particular; ‘Everybody seems to loves that one’ Una says whilst catching my gaze. ‘The leather has darkened now though and it’s a bit worn.’ This is not surprising, as this delicate bodice and many others from the A.W 2010 collection, RE.TREAT, have been requested for wear by celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Fergie, as well as numerous stylists and photographers, (most recently David Bailey and David Sims) to shoot for fashion magazines world wide. On her desk, Una has stacked copies of the magazines in question, which titles include Vogue Italia and Numero, whilst on her walls she hangs posters from exhibitions and events she has presented at: Una is extremely proud of her accomplishments as a designer but in a rather modest and humble way. When asked ‘what has been your greatest achievement so far?’ Una can’t name just one. “There are so many to be honest; I’ve been incredibly lucky. There are so many designers who are extremely talented and would give their left arm for any one of the opportunities I’ve had” “…but being involved in ITS8 was really amazing” “…And to have Lady Gaga wanting to wear my work - I mean she has the choice of everyone in the world only to come and ask me!” And the list goes on: she tells me about when several of her pieces were taken to the Namibian desert to be shot for a fashion film called ‘Sand People’, how she was named by Vogue Italia amongst the ‘140 new emerging design talent’ and invited by them to show her portfolio during Milan Fashion Week in September 2009, and how she was featured on Vogue.it as one of Patti Wilson’s favorite emerging designers. And, if there’s one thing for certain, it’s that Una is talented…


I am interested to know if and how exhibiting with Vauxhall Fashion Scout last season helped you as a designer?
Yeah definitely, I have had some great publicity and it was good also as it meant that it put me in touch with the people that I needed to be put in touch with here and there; the support from people like Martyn, the director, is great. It’s genuine at Vauxhall Fashion Scout and they offer the real help that you need in the fashion world. 


Your A.W 2010/11 collection was very conceptual, driven by your research into human trauma- what has been your inspiration behind this latest collection? Well it’s still coming from that point, as I’m using the same construction that I devised through doing that research, but I’m making some more useable pieces so people who have admired my work in the past can actually purchase a piece of it that they can really wear. I seem to just have this style that always comes out when I come to play around. 


Where would you love too see these new pieces stocked?


Browns Focus as that’s where a lot of emerging designers’ work is sold, and I think that’s where a lot of people go to when they’re looking for interesting and new pieces.
There’s also a Store in San Francisco called Circle & Square, who have been asking for some bags from me for about a year now.


How would you describe your working process?

Well how I design is with experimentation: I take a piece of leather, twist it, turn it and attach it different ways together and then I’ll apply that to different areas of the body.


Why did you choose leather crafting as your specialism?
I’m not quite sure; it just seems to be something that I’m drawn to. I think it’s because I have such a respect for the heritage of leather working and I think It's bad when traditional crafts are dismissed. The idea of creating something with your hands is such an amazing gift and its so satisfying... I find it sad that people don’t appreciate it as much anymore.

You have previously done some work at Philip Treacy: That must have been inspiring… The reason I wanted to work with Philip in particular is because his work is very sculptural and quite bizarre - I mean who would have thought about putting a boat on their head? His pieces are fashion but very much art as well. I think that’s what I appreciated about working with him: He is very inspiring and for me what I found incredible was the idea of doing art pieces that you wear.


Who would you love to dress? Madonna of course!  Also, Bjork and Tilda Swinton, they’re all such strong characters.
…and actually Daphne Guinness wore one of my pieces recently for the new NARS cosmetics ad campaign and she is someone incredible whom I’ve always wanted to wear my work.


You have in the past described your work as ‘wearable pieces of art’ - do you consider your self then as an artist or a fashion designer? A bit of both. I’ve always had this kind of internal argument of where I want to be. Whilst at college my mind eventually set on fashion but then every time I was doing a fashion project there was always an art element to it, which was very conceptual. At this stage it’s funny because I’ve seem to have come full circle and I’m back at that internal argument with my self as I’m not sure which way I’m going again. I think what I would really love to do is keep pushing fashion but then every couple of years create something very artistic, designed for exhibition.


Una’s latest collection will be exhibited with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in both London and Paris for the SS11 Showcase.
 


 


Sarah Barlow

Tuesday 17 August 2010

Vintage at Goodwood Festival

Last weekend the British Fashion Council partnered with Vintage at Goodwood Festival to curate a unique fashion show entitled ‘Future Vintage’. Chaired by Sarah Mower, the BFC ambassador for emerging talent, a panel of expert Fashion Editors selected five emerging designers that fit the brief to show in the Catwalk event.



One of the designers selected was this season’s New Gen award winner David Koma.


As Koma has shown with Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week for the past two seasons we were more than excited to see him doing so well!


The show opened with a film celebrating the works of designers such as Zandra Rhodes, exploring the regeneration of fashions passed and the concept of design. Though for us the main spectacle was Koma’s collection, styled by none other than our Ones To Watch stylist Pandora Lennard.


All in all Vintage at Goodwood was a fashion filled weekend well spent!



Lara Angol

Monday 16 August 2010

Interview with Ones To Watch Winner - Georgia Hardinge

To conclude the exclusive interviews with Fashion Scout's Ones To Watch winners, last but not least, Kenny Wang catches up with Georgia Hardinge…



How do you feel about winning a place in the Ones to Watch showcase at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?


It feels great! The level of support is invaluable! As it’s my first show I will definitely need a helping hand this time!


What did you do to celebrate?


I’ve been so excited but have put all my energy into getting stuck in and working on my collection.


Were you interested in fashion when you were growing up?


Absolutely, fashion has been an interest of mine from a very young age.


Who is your favorite designer and why?


I love the conceptual aspects of Hussein Chalayan’s work, and for that reason he has to be my favorite designer.


If you were not a fashion designer, what would you do?


It would definitely be something creative, perhaps an installation artist or a Sculptor.


What music do you listen to when you are designing?


When I’m designing in the studio I play 80’s music and listen to the radio a lot.


Where would you like to see your brand in a few years?


I think it is important to have steady growth. I am to remain creative and stay true to my philosophy.


Have you been to any of our Mentoring Events? What are your thoughts of the sessions? Has it helped?


I attended 3 meetings before I opened my business and they were really helpful! I would absolutely recommend the sessions to any designers either starting out or thinking of expanding.


Are you looking forward to your show at London Fashion Week?


I’m so excited to be showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season!




Kenny Wang