COLLECTION| Shao Yen AW12

After battling our way through the adoring crowds at the Shao Yen installation at Freemason’s Hall, Vauxhall Fashion Scout managed to appreciate for ourselves the effortless beauty that exuded from her work.  Emanating modernism and a contemporarily simple aesthetic, Shao Yen’s collection was the perfect antidote to the bustling space. 

In electric hues of blue and orange, the collection was as dramatic as it was minimalist.  Introducing ‘street’ twists, such as caps, to high fashion garments, Shao Yen succeeded in creating a collection that was both classically skillful and excitingly fresh. 

Abigail Gurney-Read VFS Contributor

Follow her @AbbyGurneyRead
Photography Natalia Ilina

COLLECTION| Bernard Chandran AW12

The show was packed from wall to wall, the room buzzing with excitement, a high energy drum and bass sound track kicked off the show, giving a futuristic urban feel to the runway with front row celebrities including Keisha Buchanan and Pandemonia.

With high collars being the key staple for this collection, both detachable and attached, heavy beaded embellishment against subtle shift dresses highlight the importance of this piece for the season. Colours were monochromatic black, white and grey using different fabric textures through quilting and laser cutting with disconnected shoulders all adding detail to the garments, with the only highlight of colour being electric blue. Fur was also worked into a brocade like camouflage.

Accessories and footwear were angular, with winged heels in contrasting colours. Hair was set in a slick futuristic wave incorporated with curled quiffs. Make up was strong with red glitter lips, bare eyes and heavy brows, adding a slight masculine charm to the looks. Bernard Chandran definitely didn't disappoint

Louis Driver VFS Contributor & Victoria Fura VFS Contributor

@Organic_Pirate @vic123x
Photography by Natalia Ilina

ILLUSTRATIONS| Andy Bumpus

 

Andy Bumpus's CV reads like a rollcall of who's who in the world of high fashion publications and companies. This illustrator is extremely sought after and VFS have been lucky to have been collaborating with Andy for the past three seasons, resulting in the production of breath-takingly innovative illustrations. To see his outstanding portfolio don't hesitate to visit his website here.


By Cass Gowing, VFS Blog Editor, T: @CassGowing

BACKSTAGE| Toni&Guy Photo's Live from Vauxhall Fashion Scout at the Freemason's Hall

Toni&Guy have been working hard all day backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s home Freemason’s Hall. And boy have they created some amazing looks for Day Two... This shots were captured as the ingenious creations were sculptured for Elisa Palomino and Florian Jayet shows this morning at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Keep it here for more backstage images and updates on our fabulous sponsors... For news as it happens, head over to our Vauxhall Fashion Scout Twitter, by clicking here.

Photography by Jessie Frost/Daniel Extence

ILLUSTRATION| 30 seconds with... Michalis Christodoulou

 Fam Irvoll Show
Georgia Hardinge Show

 Phoebe English Show

Our amazing team of blog contributors have been working hard bringing you the exhilarating scenes from Vauxhall Fashion Scout at The Freemason's Hall...We caught up with one of the illustrators Michalis Christodoulou in a rare moment of calm to find out what makes him tick...

VFS: So Michalis, how have you found your first season here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?

Michalis: Vauxhall Fashion Scout is an amazing platform to promote work as a fashion illustrator. It's been great to witness the shows from a number of new, emerging designers and then illustrate their work on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout blog using my unique style. 

VFS: What has been your favourite part of being a Vauxhall Fashion Scout contributor?

M: The catwalk shows have been phenomenal and being backstage and watching the designers work offered me enormous inspiration for illustrating and that's so important. Also managing to create some amazing illustrations form amazing outfits and great designers. 

VFS: Talk us through your techniques...

M: My techniques are hand-drawn illustrations using pencils and water colours. I love illustrating striking outfits, attitude and style. I also like incomplete parts on illustrations as they make you use your imagination when taking in the drawings. 

To take a look at more of Michalis' work, take a look at his website www.michalischristodoulou.com

COLLECTION| Spijkers en Spijkers AW12

Flying to a comedic old fashioned song with elements of old fashioned cinema the birds of paradise flew gracefully along the catwalk in shades of tan, orange and navy mixed with berry purple. Creative construction incorporating geometric deco style seams and hems form an integral part of the collection, with bold geometric tessellation in places with accompanying panel work. There was a real contemporary feel for the 1930's shapes and silhouettes. With a nod towards 'Grey Gardens' this classy eccentric story was told through the interesting use of print and texture. In amongst the dresses featured masculine tailoring in the form of a tuxedo and wide leg play suit. Barely there make up, created a fresh look with pastel eye shadow in varying shades. Set and moulded hair with a subtle unkempt fuzz was kept in place with a primary coloured acrylic Alice band. Whilst all looks were set off with black patent heels with a feather embellishment worn with sheer pop socks. Some looks incorporated an embroidered bird brooch.

Front row onlooker Schelay McCarter commented on the innovative tailoring and the stunning seductive shilouettes as well as the 1930's inspired art deco influences that are key for this season. Of Vauxhall Fashion Scout she states that she feels that we're 'right on the pulse of new and up coming fashion designers'.

Louis Driver VFS Contributor
@Organic_Pirate 

Victoria Fura VFS Contributor
@vic123x

Photography: Christopher Dadey.

BACKSTAGE| Toni&Guy for Alice Lee

The Toni&Guy team created an innovative and unique look for Alice Lee's AW12 Collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The team began by adding coloured hair extensions to the locks (hinting that the rainbow hair trend may be set to continue into next season) then worked on tousling the hair. The hair was then draped across the models' eyes and pinned into place. This intricate 'do' added a futuristic element to the modern and minimalism collection created by duo Alice and Lee. 

By Cass Gowing, VFS Blog Editor, T: @CassGowing

Photography by Natalia Ilina

COLLECTION| Dans La Vie AW12 Collection AW12

Japanese designer Rira Sugawara showcased his third collection in the main Hall at Freemasons this afternoon. The atmosphere was warm and stimulating. The audience was cosmopolitan and eclectic. Fluorescent hair in purples and greens, a bright pink fur jacket and printed tops amongst tailored black suits and leather trousers.  Running fashionably late, ten-fifteen minutes off schedule, the collection strutted through onto the runway oozing confidence and attitude. The feeling was bright, pop art, retro glamour.

Sugawara was suggesting a new way of Popism, through 60’s American pop art and ‘the spiritual character of a Japanese high priest’, and he did just that. The attitude was fierce. Head to toe printed suits with spurts of electrifying bold colour. The models' hair was short and voluminous, each containing bright coloured ends in yellows, oranges and pinks. Most of the models were adorned with circular 60’s style brightly coloured sunglasses, contrasted with a pale complexion and vivid red lips, which only added to their sultry and edgy appearance. Many garments contained large printed fur collars and if not a hood, fur hat or fascinator.

Full length printed coats were key to the Dans La Vie collection and the overall collection multicoloured, with black elements present to neutralise the palette. 

Emily Palmer, VFS Contributor
Follow her @emilypalmer4

Photography by Carla Guler

COLLECTION| Alice Lee AW12

Inspired by dark romanticism, the collection from Alice Lee at Vauxhall Fashion Scout pushed boundaries between eroticism and modesty; the lack of skin on show was off-set by the use of clinging and sheer materials. 

Although it was reminiscent of a gothic era, futurism was an evident theme in the show through the combination of material mediums.  Some examples displayed plastic woven into wool, creating a juxtaposition of messages between conservative and fetish, and traditional and modern. 

The monochromatic palette was injected with streaks of orange and blue through the models’ hair, which acted as a key element to the outfit as a whole.  It seemed to be a celebration of the body, with cut-out backs and smooth silhouettes. The whole collection demonstrated Alice and Lee’s appreciation of subtlety and quality. 

By Abigail Gurney-Read, VFS Contributor

Follow her @AbbyGurneyRead
Photography by Natalia Ilina

EXHIBITION| Eleanor Amoroso AW12

Eleanor Amoroso studied at Westminster, graduating 2 years ago. Her Autumn Winter collection takes it's main inspiration from the ancient rope knotting technique Macramé. When asked about the direction for the collection, she informs us that she creates garment shapes from the type of knot that she uses. This season the knot is a standard repeat, as previous collections have seen a more intricate style of knotting. Detail in the collection sees the use of copper piping and chain woven into the elaborate pieces. To compliment this she has also formed a range of accessories using macramé. The main body of the collection is black, with a very subtle hint of nude, and her previous collections have seen the use of creams. Currently garmets are made to order and when asked who she would like to see in one of her garments she informed us that it had been suggested that a cream peice would look great on Lana Del Ray. The future may also see bridal pieces for this talented designer.

Louis Driver VFS Contributor, Vicky Fura, VFS Contributor

@Organic_Pirate @vic123x
Photography by Natalia Ilina

BACKSTAGE| Interview with the stylist for Florian Jayet's AW12 show..

Fashion Scout: Hey Heather, so you’re styling Florian’s Autumn/ Winter show this season; what’s this collection about, and how are you working that into the styling?

Heather: This season’s collection is very tribal, so we’re channeling that through the accessories too. We’ve got masks, and we’ve also got jewellery from Bjorg. It’s all very dark, tribal, and Pan’s Labyrinth inspried.

How are you looking too style the actual pieces? Are we going to be seeing layering, or is it a stripped back affair in keeping with the accessories?

We’ve got lots of layering and contrasting textures; we’ll be mixing prints and bright colours too.

Are we still going to be seeing very nature-inspired work, as with his previous collections?

Yes, definitely. He’s told me that this season, he’s been really inspired but nature, but this time, it’s more focused on history, so really looking into tribes as well.

BACKSTAGE| Last Minute Touch-Ups for Alice Lee Hair & Make-Up

Five minutes until show-time for Alice Lee, and the models’ side-swept “hair-hats” are being touched up minutes pre-show. Be sure you’re at the Freemasons show-space in time to catch it.

Image by Sara McAlpine VFS Contributor

Follow her @sara_mcalpine

BACKSTAGE| Florian Jayet Interview

We caught up with Florian Jayet post-show, and managed to fit in a couple quick questions before the bustling, media pack queuing behind us started to fight us for him.

Fashion Scout: Congratulations on the show Florian! You’ve definitely done something different with this collection than with previous collections. We know you’re heavily influenced by your biologist background- is this something that’s carried through to your current designs?

Florian: Yes, it’s something that I use when I’m thinking of how I want to work with the textures of the clothes, and also inspires the prints. I definitely think that influence is still present in the shapes as well.

FS: Would you say that it contributes to your development as a designer? How would you say your style has changed since starting your design career?

F: I think I’ve actually gone back to what I was doing before. I have developed, but I’ve gone back to focusing on more structured pieces. Very empowered, very structured. Previously, there was a softer shape, but definitely more emphasis on structure this season.

FS:... & finally- as there’s a huge queue of media ready to fight over you- how do you feel now that you’ve shown with Vauxhall Fashion Scout today? 

Vauxhall Fashion Scout is definitely one of the best venues for new designers to show; this is definitely going to help me. It’s got a reputation: it’s one of the best.

Sara McAlpine VFS Contributor

Follow her @sara_mcalpine

EXHIBITION| Eleanor Bolton AW12

An MA graduate from the Royal College of Arts, Eleanor Bolton's main focus is well and truly stitched into accessories, especially of the statement kind. Taking inspiration from nautical vessels these pieces are hand stitched cotton rope, coiled and linked with gold or silver plated brass rings.When asked about the construction Eleanor informs us that each piece is labour intensive, with it taking 1 hour to stitch a 15cm coil. She also likes the idea of taking low grade raw materials and creating an object of desire. As heavy as the jewellery looks they are light weight hollow forms with adaptable style that would most definitely appeal to a wide audience.Eleanor's accessories are currently stocked in London's Dark Room with further stockists in New York and Paris.

Louis Driver VFS Contributor

@Organic_Pirate

Victoria Fura VFS Contributor

@vic123x

EXHIBITION| Claudia Ligari AW12

Think black.  Think loose draping.  Think androgyny.  Think Claudia Ligari.  A breath of simplicity amidst the bustling chaos of the Fashion Industry, typical of Ligari, her new collection is clean, understated and deeply beautiful.  Using heavier materials than in previous seasons, Ligari’s collection is the perfect example of how simplicity can speak volumes. 

With elements of sportswear about the collection, silhouettes are boxy and unfitted; yet somehow managing to flatter a feminine figure underneath.  Empowering and individual, each piece draws focus to the wearer; enhancing natural beauty, and androgynous charm.  

Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Exhibition Space at Freemason’s Hall currently houses a delicious example of her collection.  

Abigail Gurney-Read

Follow her @AbbyGurneyRead

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Contributor

ILLUSTRATION| Fam Irvoll

Illustration by Joshua Osborn

ILLUSTRATION| Phoebe English

Illustration by Yiunam Leung

COLLECTION| Florian Jayet AW12

Florian Jayet is one of those designers with such an innate understanding of the way women’s bodies work, his collections are visually stunning, representing strong yet sensual femininity. For A/W12, Jayet cites his inspiration coming from civilizations and tribesmen, with Aztec and Maori prints running through as a central theme. 

With a base palette of black and grey, and touches of turquoise and almost neon yellow, he incorporates metallics to give the collection a futuristic and modern twist. Opening with an intricately detailed leather headdress, it was clear from the start that this was a collection that was going to be talked about. What ensued was an entire collection of strong and structured pieces, with tapered silhouettes on the bottom half and interesting detailing to the shoulders, including padded shell pads and elaborate stitching. 

Accessories followed suit, with sculptured metallic sky high heels and finger armour jewellery and even a full face chain appearing on one of the Amazonian-like models. The hair and makeup were exquisite, completely embodying the essence of the collection, with futuristic hair and makeup. Goodie bags for the show went down almost as well as the collection, with the audience eagerly nodding at both. Florian finished the show long flowing maxi dresses in luxurious silk, bringing a softer aesthetic.

Sarah Jayne Potter, VFS Contributor

Follow her on Twitter: @sarahhhhrah
Photography by Natalia Ilina

BACKSTAGE| Beauty with Body Shop.

Beauty is never painful at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.  Those in need of some relaxation in between the shows, can head to the VIP Lounge at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for some complimentary pampering; courtesy of our Sponsor, The Body Shop.  Makeup retouching, and hand massages are just two of the many services they are generously providing for our VIP guests, at the Freemason’s Hall.

www.thebodyshop.co.uk

Abigail Gurney-Read

Follow her @AbbyGurneyRead

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Contributor 

BACKSTAGE| Florian Jayet.

The Body Shop team were hard at work backstage creating Florian's amazing vision of futuristic makeup, with Toni & Guy complementing the look with perfect plaits!

COLLECTION| Mattijs AW12

The elegant-warrior army was out at the Mattijs show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout this morning.  The collection was introduced powerfully, with the Star Wars theme echoing through the auditorium; it was at this point that Mattijs unleashed a torrent of other-worldly creations.

Gold was a dominant colour throughout, in the form of belts, shoes, embellishment, and entire dresses.  As well as this, bold colour-blocking was used in abundance; giving authority and life to the stunning collection.  

Silhouettes varied, from sculpted suits at the beginning of the show, to voluptuous jackets and waterfall pleats at its conclusion.  However, evident throughout was the theme of the feminine warrior, and of fierce independence; defining the Mattijs show as contemporary and thoroughly unique.  

Abigail Gurney-Read, VFS Contributor

Follow her @AbbyGurneyRead

COLLECTION| Elisa Palomino AW12

Inspired by Florine Stettheimers book of poems "crystal flowers" Elisa Palomino conjured up an avant garde sisterhood. With a hint of rendezvous and forbidden in the air (perfumes), the imposing silence and the anticipation built a haunting atmosphere.

As choir like song ascended on the complimenting surroundings of the hall, the scene was set. A flurry of pink and purple parlor gowns and dresses in classic floor lengths mixed with floaty kimono style sleeves, and exposed backs gave a 20's /30's New York feel.  A choice cut of silk and velvet, mixed with chiffon and brocade burnouts fused with Exotic floral prints took you on a Shanghai Safari.

A small interval of black, with an even smaller feature of classic bold leopard print. Further along the journey, an intentional clash of colour introduced vibrant orange into the mix. Accessorised with large floral head pieces and netted veils.

Make-up reminiscent of a geisha, Included a pale base strong pink and purple cheeks, with a slim high definition glossy brow. The hair was that of fluorescent flapper style finger waves varying shades of flamingo pink and classic purple.

Louis Driver VFS Contributor

@Organic_Pirate

Victoria Fura VFS Contributor

@vic123x

Illustrations by Joshua Osborn


To find out more information about the designer visit http://www.elisapalomino.com

BACKSTAGE| Elisa Palomino

The atmosphere backstage at Elisa Palomino was a mixture of excitement and anticipation. Being the first show of the day at Freemason's Hall, Elisa's gorgeous collection sets the bar high for the rest of the day.

Photography by Abigail Gurney-Read and Raul Rosillo

VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT| Day 1| AW12

For more videos from Autumn/ Winter, as well as previous seasons, be sure to check out our Vimeo page.

Produced by: Lucas Seidenfaden @l_sei
Additional Camera: Nathan Matthews
Editing: Giuseppe Laudani

COLLECTION| Former Merit Award Winner Georgia Hardinge AW12

Former Merit Award Winner Georgia Hardinge closes the first day at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemason’s Hall with a masculine yet elegantly tailored collection.

Opening to ‘Que Cera Cera’, the AW12 line was anything but complacent as an extremely versatile collection strutted onto the runway. Hardinge’s collection was a complete burst of colour; with royal blues, deep maroons and mustard yellows. A tie-dye inspired print took centre stage within the show; appearing as dresses, trousers, blouses and skirts in both pink and nude hues. Chunky knits made a brief appearance in the collection, taking the form of an oversized roll neck sweater and tailored crocheted shorts. 

The models wore slicked back bound ponytails, bronzed faces, heavy brow with nude lip and eyes leaving all eyes on the highly sculptured and detailed pieces. 

Whilst it was the sheer panelling detailing on the accentuated collared dresses and blouses that completed the collection the finishing gown really made the crowd gasp. The cape style cut flowing gown with jutting asymmetric shapes purely followed Georgia’s ethos of making ‘wearable art’. No wonder Georgia had a smile on her face. 

Cass Gowing, VFS Blog Editor

T: @CassGowing, www.cassgowingfashion.co.uk

Photography Christopher Dadey.