Saturday, 19 February 2011

LFW Day 2 - Lako Bukia Catwalk Review

Lako Bukia’s designs are heavily entrenched in her Georgian heritage having previously been inspired by views of soviet era buildings and Georgian religion. Her AW11 collection is derrived from the Georgian National Ballet’s Men’s costume. This specific design theme saw a range of fabrics from classic floating chiffon dresses and skirts contrasted with black leather sashes to satin and sheers. Bukia also contrasted masculine and feminine as heavy leather boots were glimpsed through layers of the chiffon, and a glamorous red evening dress was embellished with gold armor-like discs. Leather was a prominent feature imbued into Bukia’s designs giving them clout and a powerful presence. This is symbolized by the leather bullet holders grafted onto delicate sheer shirts and around the tops of black leather thigh high boots. The boots themselves were a dramatic statement which reinforced the outfits. These were military inspired with reference to riding boots and Romanticism, made unique with weighted tassels and block heels and of course, bullets.
Bukia exercised varying application of texture with a range of wearable tailored coats, smart shirts, leather trousers, satin shirts with bellowing sleeves and flowing chiffon. The contrasting range of fabrics and tailoring were married together with a prominent palette of black and white, taupe and blushes of rose and wines.

Words : Amy Lockwood
IIllustration : Andy Bumpus
Photos : 1 - 8 Lucas Seidenfaden
Photo : 9 Ezzidin Alwan

LFW Day 2 - Jacob Kimmie Catwalk Review

As we sat in darkness with the sound of church bells echoing about the room, the gothic ecclesiastic theme was prominent. Jacob Kimmie’s A/W11 ‘Martyr’ collection was a mix of pieces all taking reference from the works of neo-classicist artists. Ribbon panelled denim dresses with a frayed finish, trailing ribbon and little transparent windows on the back were the first looks to come out. The full length silk gowns were beautifully free flowing some with a monochrome thorn print. 
The tailoring throughout Jacob’s collection was strong; tailored trousers with sheer drapery were styled with chiffon balaclavas reminiscent of gimp masks, inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s White Gauze. They were then followed by two white looks, one model appeared drenched from head to bust in red paint as though she had been decapitated. The last look from the collection was a male model in white tailored trousers covered in a white chiffon veil, as though a ghost. All models were ghostly shadows with powdered white faces and wild back combed hair. Jacob’s sacred ‘Martyr’ collection was a interesting and theatrical progression from his previous works.

Words : Louisa Kilburn
Illustration : KELLYANNA
Photos 1-5 : Lucas Seidenfaden
Photos 6-7 : Ezzidin Alwan

LFW Day 2 - Fyodor Golan Catwalk Review

A collection heavy with metaphor, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman presented ‘a wardrobe for today’s global modern woman.’ The collection journeyed through opposites, representing both mini and maxi, structured and flowing, and leather with silk pieces.

For western tribes, scarring enhances social prestige and is a sign of sensual attractiveness. Fyodor Golan experimented with manipulated leather, giving the impression of animalistic scars. Their conceptual approach led to feathered pieces lining bra cups and dress seams and buckled straps across the back and arms.

The colour palette was focused around earthy blacks and browns, offset with emerald green drainpipe trousers, a radiant blue and black felt slit dress and a lilac hooded cape.

Stand out pieces included a ruched cream maxi dress, elongating the silhouette, and a layered, pleated mini dress with cut out detail. A personal favourite was the designers’ second look, a dramatic backless navy dress. The flurry of tweets and camera shutters during the show proved everyone is now a fan of Fyodor Golan’s LFW premier. 

Words : Tess Stam
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden
Illustration 1 : Andy Bumpus
Illustration 2 : KELLYANNA

LFW Day 2 - Una Burke Presentation Review

This season Una Burke is not only an exhibitor in our London Fashion Week Exhibition she is also holding a presentation in our showroom. Her A/W 11 collection entitled ‘Meta.Morph’ was illustrated through a short fashion film and a display of key pieces, as well as some stunning wetplate photography from Stefan Sappert.

Una’s collection of leather body braces was inspired by the work of disabled artist Nicola Lane. The social and mental effects of disability influenced the direction of Una Burke’s fashion film. Collaborating with film director Andreas Waldschutz and with creative directing from Adia Trischler, the experimental film showcasing Una’s designs is purposely uncomfortable and nerving. Taking inspiration from Michael Snow’s iconic 1967 film ‘Wavelength’, the film jars and jumps showing the model staggering around confused and trapped; only to finish with a crowd of clone-like simpletons laughing like clowns as the poor girl in body braces collapses. The model in the film is portrayed as a freakish character and most of her face is covered by the sculptured accessories that hide her identity – a theme Una has followed; the unwarranted shame of having a disability.

The pieces are intricately constructed using soft leather in a range of dark colours; the strips of leather are folded and held in place by studs and bolts. The complexity of the structures is baffling, but they would be a fabulous way to add a harder edge to a simple look.  

Words : Louisa Kilburn
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden 
Illustration : Andy Bumpus

LFW Day 2 - Una Burke Exhibition At The Hospital Club

The Hospital Club, haven of the arts and hub for innovative creators is currently hosting an exhibition of Una Burke’s work. This is particularly fitting venue for Una, whose pieces resemble fine art objects that command the gallery space, so it is little wonder that she has already caught the attention of extreme haute couture lovers Daphne Guinness and Lady Gaga. Una breezily crosses the boundaries of art and fashion with garments that similarly transcend identity: Corsets and neck braces become armour or extensions to the human body. This season she has extended her art to film.

It is impossible not to admire the time and artistry that has been dedicated to these pieces. Una manipulates leather and metal studs with a dexterity that sees these tough materials woven and sculpted with seeming ease into organic forms. The colours are warm earthy browns, derived from Una’s natural dying methods. Indeed, Una states that she is keen to maintain the appearance of the man-made. 

Three pieces are suspended in the reception like rare specimens. An undone corset is a menacing enticement to try it on, and two neck braces offer terrifying restrictions for your arms. A figure kneeling on a plinth in the window with its head forced down and its arms in almost prayer position has a humanity that is made tragic by repression. The echo of a misshaped human form brings the absent body to mind. The contortion of the frames is such that it is built for a specific individual, yet the void in the empty shell reveals a figure without identity.

Una draws her inspiration from psychology and prosthetics. She is particularly interested in the psychology of trauma and the ways in which an individual deals with the loss of identity associated with this. Una also interchanges binary oppositions, as her pieces have a strong military aesthetic that mask vulnerability, and perceived deformity is sculpted into beauty. Una is transforming negative ordeal into positive works of art.

Words & Images Amy Lockwood

Limited Edition Silk Scarf by Sara Bro-Jorgensen

Ones To Watch designer Sara Bro-Jorgensen has created, exclusively for Vauxhall Fashion Scout, 25 delicately printed silk scarves that were gifted to each of our most honoured guests and VIPs in time for the OTW show yesterday. 

The painterly monochrome neck scarf, layered with bold graphic text, faint speckled stripes and tiny splatters of dye resembling ink drops in water, were hand delivered to only a select few publications, buyers and sponsors.

When Sara dropped the limited edition creations into the Fashion Scout office we took a peek and couldn't resist sharing the highly covetable creations. Sheer, classic and of an exceptional quality, we were each bursting to own one ourselves. The attention to detail that Sara applied to her AW 11 collection is clearly mirrored here, particularly where the corners of each scarf are neatly capped with a pyramid of leather. On trend, and on our (never-to-be-fulfilled) wishlist.... VIP's enjoy!

Lara Angol

LFW Day 2 - Tosha Salon Show Review

Tamara Sariachvili, the designer behind Tosha, sent out her troupe of sirens this morning to march about the showroom. For her collection entitled ‘Paint It Black’ the ladies, who dominated the room, wore thigh skimming body-con dresses; in a strict palette of black the wool dresses featured a cheeky gold zip from top to bottom. The dresses were tight and figure hugging, some with low cut backs; the
collection refreshingly celebrated the female shape.
Models were fierce in their look as well as their walk; with dark glossy lips, pale complexion and slick hair. Inspired by the internal human make-up, Tamara had adorned all 10 dresses with layered hand sculptured ruffles that ran from the neck to below the bust. The show stopping piece was a one sleeve body-con dress with a floor skimming trail.

Tamara’s curve accentuating LBDs will, without doubt, be a favourite amongst the young and beautiful for their nights out.

Words & Image : Louisa Kilburn
Illustration : KELLYANNA
Illustration 2 : Andy Bumpus

LFW Day 2 - Merit Award : Georgia Hardinge Catwalk Review


Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge presented her AW 11 collection to a backdrop of Bjork and club beats, with models glowing in nude lipstick and grey smoky eyes. The garements were exceptional, classic simplicity with edge, whilst also completely wearable.

The show began with black on black; a sheer shirt paired with panelled leggings and an intricate cropped blazer. The looks were accompanied with preppy ankle socks, given a grungy appeal with black wedge platforms. Sensational sculpted mini dresses gave the perfect feminine silhouette and sleek maxi designs lengthened the body. Masculine trench coats with bold shoulders and cropped blazers were showcased alongside womanly cream capes.
The first half of the show focused on harsh black, integrating grey digi print and suede panels. The latter half revolved around a cream and neutral colour palette, paired with towering camel wedges. Trousers had a Reptilian influence, with strips of fabric looped repeatedly like scales, also seen on the back of collars. Thick jersey dresses were given the same unique touch and a bodycon skirt was balanced by a tonal, sheer rose pink top. Leather also featured with pieces such as grey high-rise shorts and a long vest.

I was left mesmerised by the end of the show.  Girls Aloud's Nicola Roberts shared my passion for the successful designer. “I loved it, I thought it was amazing,” she expressed, “my favourite piece was the long panelled dress and I loved the print used too.”

Words : Tess Stam
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden
Illustration 1 : Andy Bumpus
Illustration 2 / 3: KELLYANNA

Our 10th Season Party Photos

The Klaxons DJ
VFS Director John Walford chats to VFS designers Kirsty Ward and David Longshaw
 Jessica Bumpus of Chats with our illustrators Kelly Anna and Andy Bumpus
TONI&GUY's Tim Furssedon and Eudon Choi
VFS Director Martyn Roberts congratulates designer Sara Bro-Jorgensen and Stylist Sara Gilmour
The Exhibition 

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s exclusive 10th anniversary party was a sophisticated event held in the grand Freemasons Hall, Covent Garden. Fashionable quests mingled amongst mannequins dressed in some of the finest examples of VFS designers from the past decade. This display of beautiful clothes coupled with the spectacular architecture in the Freemasons Hall and music spun by the Klaxons and Sunday Girl made for a truly stylish atmosphere. Partygoers were treated to handmade sushi from Hi-sushi and decadent Lucky-s chocolate cake and sipped f. vodka infused cocktails, Asahi beer and Korbel champagne. 

Words : Amy Lockwood
Photos : Lucas Seidenfaden and Natalia Ilina