This season Una Burke is not only an exhibitor in our London Fashion Week Exhibition she is also holding a presentation in our showroom. Her A/W 11 collection entitled ‘Meta.Morph’ was illustrated through a short fashion film and a display of key pieces, as well as some stunning wetplate photography from Stefan Sappert.
Una’s collection of leather body braces was inspired by the work of disabled artist Nicola Lane. The social and mental effects of disability influenced the direction of Una Burke’s fashion film. Collaborating with film director Andreas Waldschutz and with creative directing from Adia Trischler, the experimental film showcasing Una’s designs is purposely uncomfortable and nerving. Taking inspiration from Michael Snow’s iconic 1967 film ‘Wavelength’, the film jars and jumps showing the model staggering around confused and trapped; only to finish with a crowd of clone-like simpletons laughing like clowns as the poor girl in body braces collapses. The model in the film is portrayed as a freakish character and most of her face is covered by the sculptured accessories that hide her identity – a theme Una has followed; the unwarranted shame of having a disability.
The pieces are intricately constructed using soft leather in a range of dark colours; the strips of leather are folded and held in place by studs and bolts. The complexity of the structures is baffling, but they would be a fabulous way to add a harder edge to a simple look.
Words : Louisa Kilburn
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden
Illustration : Andy Bumpus