Sara Bro-Jorgensen unleashed an urban army of models onto the catwalk at our Ones to Watch show. Black hoods with peaks and balaclavas coupled with capes and string knits created a new and powerful aesthetic. Bro-Jorgensen expresses and interest in contrasts and has maximized her multiple skills in textiles by showcasing intricate beading, crochet, knits and trompe-l’oeil which she mixes together to give depth.
As a photographer Bro-Jorgensen is greatly influenced by the medium. She imbues her designs with her own imagery and playful prints. Trompe-l’oeil images of suit jackets and trench coats, finely digitally knitted into dresses and tops, abstracts what is real and what is not through the lens of a camera. The black and white multi-tonal quality of photography also inspires her palette and by focusing on tone Bro-Jorgensen reveals endless possibility.
The spectrum of tone is combined with an array of fabrics from chunky knits, to ethereal sheers, which when layered together gives the depths and hues of a vintage photograph. This range of tone and fabrics produces pieces that are dreamy and haunting, verging on the gothic and casts dramatic shadows down the runway.
The fabric, tone and technique, reveal a contrast between traditional and modern, as Bro-Jorgensen adopts old crafts and develops fresh creations. Masculine and feminine also collide as delicate silks flow from strong shoulders, and long tasselled crochet hangs alongside refernecing trouser suits.
Overall a strong London Fashion Week debut for the budding designer.
Words : Amy Lockwood
Photos : Ezzidin Alwan
Illustration 1 : Andy Bumpus
Illustration 2 : KELLYANNA