As we sat in darkness with the sound of church bells echoing about the room, the gothic ecclesiastic theme was prominent. Jacob Kimmie’s A/W11 ‘Martyr’ collection was a mix of pieces all taking reference from the works of neo-classicist artists. Ribbon panelled denim dresses with a frayed finish, trailing ribbon and little transparent windows on the back were the first looks to come out. The full length silk gowns were beautifully free flowing some with a monochrome thorn print.
The tailoring throughout Jacob’s collection was strong; tailored trousers with sheer drapery were styled with chiffon balaclavas reminiscent of gimp masks, inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s White Gauze. They were then followed by two white looks, one model appeared drenched from head to bust in red paint as though she had been decapitated. The last look from the collection was a male model in white tailored trousers covered in a white chiffon veil, as though a ghost. All models were ghostly shadows with powdered white faces and wild back combed hair. Jacob’s sacred ‘Martyr’ collection was a interesting and theatrical progression from his previous works.
Words : Louisa Kilburn
Illustration : KELLYANNA
Photos 1-5 : Lucas Seidenfaden
Photos 6-7 : Ezzidin Alwan