Saturday, 19 September 2015

The Swedish School of Textiles SS16 Graduate Collection Part 1

A cornucopia of talented designs, the Swedish School of Textiles show displayed the work of 20 talented graduates. Displaying technical skills with an imaginative aesthetic, these young students created collections showcasing their individual talents.

'Form fusing' by Louise Wanggren displayed a skilfully crafted collection demonstrating architecturally folded shapes in bold tones using a fusion technique.

Alva Johnson challenged the traditional conventions of fashion with her displaced garments in earthy tones draping off the models bodies. Her 'Bodydressed' collection used bodystockings to contrast with the undressed feel of her garments.

Moa Antonsson also used an undressed style for her 'Arranged Distortion' collection with muted toned garments suspended asymmetrically off the models shoulders giving a sultry distortion of modern workwear.

Collection number four was Sofie Larsson with her 'Contract Knit' collection displaying semi sheer knitted metallics with burnt orange accents. Floaty designs were overlaid over bodycon knitted black midi dresses.

Josefin Runquist's 'Change in Motion' exhibited graphic monochrome lines offset on flowing capes, with the standout piece being a monochrome bandau jumpsuit accompanied by a billowing polyethylene cape.

'Cut and Paste' by Emilia Elfik paraded beautiful applique over the top of soft, muted tones. The stiff folds in the fabric contrasted with the feminine embellishments.

Miriam Julin's 'Elastit' explored how elastic bands can work as a catalyst to define shape. The bands were places around the models waist, accentuating their curves by gathering folds of fabric.

'Crumbling/Distressed' by Tove Ulisaker used laser cutting and fraying to create innovative denim designs.  Candyfloss like frayed cotton on outerwear contrasted with a sharp cutout denim dress, creating a formal look on a naturally casual fabric.

Joel Prehn Anderson's 'Slashing' explored the relationship between the body and fabric through hand painted abstract prints over layers muted fabrics. Feminine belts compliment the gathered overcoats.

Words : Elizabeth Renfrey (@erenfrey)
Images: Stefania Porcu (@stefaniaporcuphoto)
Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

SS16 Trends Overview!

We are now approaching the end of Day 2 Spring Summer 2016, here's some of the trends we're spotting. What do you think the best trends of SS16 are? 

We've seen an onslaught of bright colours in Angel Chen, Typical freaks and Leaf Xia. Reds, oranges and blues taking centre stage. Although this doesn’t mean you need to discredit those earthy tones and minimalistic neutrals, as designers James Kelly and Pam Hogg showed us.

Angel Chen
Leaf Xia
Fringing seems to be everywhere this season, and Anita Hirlekar certainly put it to use. Many of her garments were encased in long tassled material, putting a spring in every models step. Once again Pam Hogg demonstrated some killer fringed action especially in her western rose gold number.

Pam Hogg
Swedish School of Textiles BA graduate Josefin Runquist’s gave us the power of pleats, and we can’t remember why we don’t wear them on a regular basis... Pleats will certainly feature heavily next season.

Josefin Runquist

Volume has got to be one of the biggest trends we have spotted thus far. From James Kelly’s feather like moss, which snaked and draped across his garments, to Roberts|Wood's white puffball creations. Even John Daniel Isacsson presented quilted camouflage jackets like we’ve never seen before.

Katie Roberts Wood
John Daniel Isacsson
Bare skin and nudity have also played an important part over the last two days. Whether it be through peekaboo cut outs or sheer organza fabrics as seen at Judy Wu and Alva Johansson, showing flesh has definitely had firm footing on the catwalk. 

Alva Johansson
Judy Wu

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our instagram, and twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Writer: Paris Richardson (@jemappelleparis
Photographers: Maja Jankowska (@babypolsky) and Stefania Porcu (@stefaniaporcuphoto)  

Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

Street Style at Fashion Scout

With the colder weather drawing in, September Fashion Week provides the perfect setting for fashion's elite to showcase their Autumn/Winter wardrobes. With strong 1970s influences and beautiful, textured outerwear, here's how Fashion Scout's guests are embracing the new season. 

Taking inspiration from the AW15 1970's trend - dominant in recent collections by Burberry and Kenzo - many of Fashion Scout's guests were adorned with tassels, emitting a modern boho feel.

Coloured Stoles
Stoles are on trend again this season to keep necks toasty as we transition into winter. The best way to wear this trend is a dark stole with accents of this seasons colour of choice, burgundy, as seen below on Millie Mackintosh and Rosie Fortesque

Over The Knee Boots
Thigh high boots are back with a vengeance. Whether it's leather or suede, over the knee boots are the must have footwear for AW15. Best worn with fit and flare mini skirts over nude or sheer tights, this footwear lengthens the leg and adds a tough edge to every outfit. 

With an array of impeccably dressed guests and with heaps of personal style, Fashion Scout are excited to see our guests outfits over the coming days. 

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our instagram, and twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Words : Elizabeth Renfrey, @erenfrey
Images: Stefania Porcu @StefaniaPorcuPhoto
Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

SS16 James Kelly: A Laura Palmer Love Affair

As the Vestibule catwalk filled to the brim, there was a hum of excitement and curiosity, it was already clear that James Kellys SS16 collection is going to be a highlight of this London Fashion Week. 

The catwalk was surrounded by imposing sheets of white plastic, transforming the catwalk into a cordoned off space, reminiscent of a crime scene. These sheets sliced the room in half, leaving all those seated toward the far end of the catwalk anticipating the garments as gasps were heard on the other side of the plastic. The ominous Twin Peak's theme tune scored this collection's debut, along with snippets of eerie dialog from the TV series.

With his established signature palette, which James describes as rich, sludgier colours, this collection continues with the earthy: natural greens, stones, khakis and charcoals featured, accentuated by moss embroidery and appliqué. Sheer, nude fabrics evoked a second skin  on the models. Utility style was also a dominant trend, with army boots covered in moss and clean cut straight-jackets reclaimed by lichen and rich green downy textiles. Several of the garments exhibited bandage-like restriction, contourting the models bodies and giving an impression of injury or contained madness. The hair was styled wet and loose, complimented by Body Shops watery make up of gold and red eyeshadow- the models looks drowned (in the best way possible), evoking the image of John Everett Millais's 'Ophelia', and of course Lynch's 'Laura Palmer'. 

Speaking to James after the event he confirmed our suspicions, naming David Lynch as one of his biggest inspirations. The collection comes from the progression of women in film and photography, he explained, referencing Laura Palmer (the centre of David Lynchs Twin Peaks series) as a part of his main concept. James was rendered speechless after the show, and as he was whisked away to speak to proud parents, so were we.

Astonishing talent graced the catwalk this afternoon at Fashion Scout and we cannot wait to see what the future holds for James Kelly, or more appropriately, what he holds for the future.

Fashion Scout for London Fashion Week runs from 18th-22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons Hall, WC2B 5AZ


Photographers: Maja Jankowska and Stefania Porcu 
Editor: Fiona Nicholls 

Backstage: Morning of Day 2

Today we decided to go backstage and hear more about the inspiration behind not only the designers creations but the Hair and Make Up Artists too.

Sabinna - SS16 “Home is where you’re not”

Head MUA for the Sabina show; Kelly talked about how the feminine collection and how she reflected this in the make up look. “The collection is very pretty, very feminine, and there are lots of dresses and flowers. So we are going for create a very beautiful girly look for the show. Using ginger blush to create rosy cheeks, and Super Volume mascara in blue to give them big bright eyes.”

Final touch-up before this model hits the catwalk!

Some of the products used by Body Shop to create the makeup for Sabinna's feminine looks.

Rohmir - SS16 “Cherry Blossom Dream”

We managed to quickly talk to designer Olga Roh and hear about her ‘Cherry Blossom Dream’. Her collection uses colours, “Orange, golden yellow, and blues, purples.” She incorporated items such as Gymboree jackets and obi belts synching waists on sleek evening dresses.

Judy Wu – SS16 “Feminine Strength”

This is Judy’s second season with fashion scout. She told our digital team of her use of “Jade greens, corals, whites, and black accents. Whilst imagining rock like planet surfaces for her print inspiration.” The make up team looked to mirror this futuristic influence with the use of “body shops white matte ‘Kajar’ eye pencil in the lower lash line and illuminating highlighter all of the face.”

On the left is Judy Wu steaming her collection with a Propress steamer

Judy Wu browsing her collection before dressing models.

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our Instagram, and Twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Words: Paris Richardson 
Images: Maja Jankowska + Mary Germanou
Editor: Fiona Nicholls 

Pam Hogg: LAWLESS SS16's Modern Renegade

Pam Hogg: Give a man a gun and he'll rob a bank, give a man a bank and he'll rob the world.

No doubt one of the seasonal highlights in the Fashion Scout schedule was last nights showcase of Pam Hogg’s SS16 collection. Entitled 'Lawless' with the tag line 'Give a man a gun and he'll rob a bank, give a man and a bank and he'll rob the world.' Pam planted the audience in the Wild West as she offered a series of powerful looks perfect for the modern renegade.

Models (every bit as fierce as Pam herself) walked with defiant stares, wearing sandy country prints and peachy tassels. Duster coats, wide sweeping skirts and coordinated suits each displaying contrasting metallic leather lapels embellished with a 'H' motif. Her country/western undertones continued with high tasseled boots and leather chaps for the 21st century cowboy.

Pam Hogg
Pam continues to stray from convention with her eccentric studding. A stand out look was an off-white leather bikini covered in round studs and metallic spikes, encompassing Pam's rebellious character. A series of trans-seasonal coats continued this trend with a stone leather trench covered in large military style studs. Neutrals were contrasted against bright desert-toned leathers fit for rock royalty.

Anti-establishment shone through her collection as feminine shapes were constructed with tough leathers, metal embellishments and stiff collars, a power outfit for the brave. As Dick Dale's 'Miserlou' blasted through the speakers, Pam's loyal rock-royalty front row began to dance, the unconventional catwalk atmosphere reflecting the playful unruliness of the collection on all accounts.

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg
It wouldn't be a Pam Hogg collection without her trademark catsuits and the spandex clad models pounded the catwalk in acid bright creations. Daring cutouts were highlighted with metallic accents and garnished with tassels that sashayed with movement. Accessories were consistent throughout the designs, with oversized berets and bandit style scarves tied around the models wrists.

Jay Mehler and Lee Starkey 

Illustration hot off the catwalk, see featured trench coat below. Illustrator: Scott W Mason

Pam Hogg with her models
As the collection closed, Pam Hogg took to the catwalk to accept her well deserved applause. Front row guests including Jamie Winstone, Lee Starkey and Jay Mehler congratulated a stand out collection highlighting Pam's rock 'n' roll roots. With bold trans-seasonal outerwear and a fierce aesthetic, Pam confirmed that she can create both dramatic and wearable pieces. Her style continues to progress but her brand identity remains as it always has been - clothes for leaders and not for followers.

Images: Maja Jankowska 
Illustrator: Scott W Mason 
Editor: Fiona Nicholls