SS16 Trends from Niro Wang and Apu Jan

Apu Jan’s collection alluded to key fashions of the 60’s with her use of high collars and slashed necklines, whilst keeping her to her uniform of chic shapes and clean cuts.

The final walk for @apujan #FashionScout #LFW #ss16 #ApuJan

A video posted by Fashion Scout (@fashionscoutlondon) on Sep 20, 2015 at 3:58am PDT

Graphic prints were a key element for both Apu Jan and Niro Wang. Where Jan showcased turquoise florals, candy pinks and all over brights, Wang presented us with stories of field workers, tools in cerulean blue, neon oranges and mustard yellows.

Linen was also flaunted in both designers’ Spring Summer looks. We saw black linen tailored trouser suits with inverted lapels at Apu Jan -masculine in shape and style, but soft and feminine in texture. Wang exhibited oversized white jumpsuits complete with drawstring waists.

Fine knits were incorporated into Niro Wang's collection, while Apu Jan flaunted her complex use of chunky knits and use of differing techniques, such as wide slip stitch, eyelet herringbone and jumbo cable.

What were your favourite elements of each designers collections? 

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our instagram, and twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Writer: Paris Richardson (@jemappelleparis) 
Images: Stefania Porcu (@stefaniaporcuphoto)
Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

SS16 Trends Overview!

We are now approaching the end of Day 2 Spring Summer 2016, here's some of the trends we're spotting. What do you think the best trends of SS16 are? 

We've seen an onslaught of bright colours in Angel Chen, Typical freaks and Leaf Xia. Reds, oranges and blues taking centre stage. Although this doesn’t mean you need to discredit those earthy tones and minimalistic neutrals, as designers James Kelly and Pam Hogg showed us.

Angel Chen

Leaf Xia

Fringing seems to be everywhere this season, and Anita Hirlekar certainly put it to use. Many of her garments were encased in long tassled material, putting a spring in every models step. Once again Pam Hogg demonstrated some killer fringed action especially in her western rose gold number.

Pam Hogg

Swedish School of Textiles BA graduate Josefin Runquist’s gave us the power of pleats, and we can’t remember why we don’t wear them on a regular basis... Pleats will certainly feature heavily next season.

Josefin Runquist

Volume has got to be one of the biggest trends we have spotted thus far. From James Kelly’s feather like moss, which snaked and draped across his garments, to Roberts|Wood's white puffball creations. Even John Daniel Isacsson presented quilted camouflage jackets like we’ve never seen before.

Katie Roberts Wood

John Daniel Isacsson

Bare skin and nudity have also played an important part over the last two days. Whether it be through peekaboo cut outs or sheer organza fabrics as seen at Judy Wu and Alva Johansson, showing flesh has definitely had firm footing on the catwalk. 

Alva Johansson

Judy Wu

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our instagram, and twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Writer: Paris Richardson (@jemappelleparis) 
Photographers: Maja Jankowska (@babypolsky) and Stefania Porcu (@stefaniaporcuphoto)  

Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

SS16 James Kelly: A Laura Palmer Love Affair

As the Vestibule catwalk filled to the brim, there was a hum of excitement and curiosity, it was already clear that James Kelly’s SS16 collection is going to be a highlight of this London Fashion Week. 

The catwalk was surrounded by imposing sheets of white plastic, transforming the catwalk into a cordoned off space, reminiscent of a crime scene. These sheets sliced the room in half, leaving all those seated toward the far end of the catwalk anticipating the garments as gasps were heard on the other side of the plastic. The ominous Twin Peak's theme tune scored this collection's debut, along with snippets of eerie dialog from the TV series.

With his established signature palette, which James describes as ‘rich, sludgier colours’, this collection continues with the earthy: natural greens, stones, khakis and charcoals featured, accentuated by moss embroidery and appliqué. Sheer, nude fabrics evoked a ‘second skin’  on the models. Utility style was also a dominant trend, with army boots covered in moss and clean cut straight-jackets reclaimed by lichen and rich green downy textiles. Several of the garments exhibited bandage-like restriction, contourting the models bodies and giving an impression of injury or contained madness. The hair was styled wet and loose, complimented by Body Shop’s watery make up of gold and red eyeshadow- the models looks drowned (in the best way possible), evoking the image of John Everett Millais's 'Ophelia', and of course Lynch's 'Laura Palmer'. 

Speaking to James after the event he confirmed our suspicions, naming David Lynch as one of his biggest inspirations. ‘The collection comes from the progression of women in film and photography,’ he explained, referencing Laura Palmer (the centre of David Lynch’s Twin Peaks series) as a part of his main concept. James was rendered speechless after the show, and as he was whisked away to speak to proud parents, so were we.

Astonishing talent graced the catwalk this afternoon at Fashion Scout and we cannot wait to see what the future holds for James Kelly, or more appropriately, what he holds for the future.

Fashion Scout for London Fashion Week runs from 18th-22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons’ Hall, WC2B 5AZ

#FashionScout

Words: Alexandra Craft  + Fiona Nicholls 

Photographers: Maja Jankowska and Stefania Porcu 
Editor: Fiona Nicholls 

Backstage: Morning of Day 2

Today we decided to go backstage and hear more about the inspiration behind not only the designers creations but the Hair and Make Up Artists too.

Sabinna - SS16 “Home is where you’re not”

Head MUA for the Sabina show; Kelly talked about how the feminine collection and how she reflected this in the make up look. “The collection is very pretty, very feminine, and there are lots of dresses and flowers. So we are going for create a very beautiful girly look for the show. Using ginger blush to create rosy cheeks, and Super Volume mascara in blue to give them big bright eyes.”

Final touch-up before this model hits the catwalk!

Some of the products used by Body Shop to create the makeup for Sabinna's feminine looks.

Rohmir - SS16 “Cherry Blossom Dream”

We managed to quickly talk to designer Olga Roh and hear about her ‘Cherry Blossom Dream’. Her collection uses colours, “Orange, golden yellow, and blues, purples.” She incorporated items such as Gymboree jackets and obi belts synching waists on sleek evening dresses.

Judy Wu – SS16 “Feminine Strength”

This is Judy’s second season with fashion scout. She told our digital team of her use of “Jade greens, corals, whites, and black accents. Whilst imagining rock like planet surfaces for her print inspiration.” The make up team looked to mirror this futuristic influence with the use of “body shops white matte ‘Kajar’ eye pencil in the lower lash line and illuminating highlighter all of the face.”

On the left is Judy Wu steaming her collection with a Propress steamer

Judy Wu browsing her collection before dressing models.

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our Instagram, and Twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Words: Paris Richardson 
Images: Maja Jankowska + Mary Germanou
Editor: Fiona Nicholls