ILLUSTRATION| Day Five at Fashion Scout London

Illustrations by Isabelle Hynds

COLLECTION| FAD SS15

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Fashion Futures Final 2014 saw 23 teenage talents showcase the designs that impressed an esteemed jury, including Louise Ibak (designer at George at Asda), Maria Alvarez (founder and CEO at FAD) and Martyn Roberts (founder and director at Fashion Scout), amongst others. The charity supports young designers from all walks of life, helping them to get internships and experience in the fashion industry. This culminates in an annual Fashion Futures awards ceremony, sponsored by George, bringing finalists to Fashion Scout each season.

Presented by Annaliese Dayes, a Next Top Model herself, the packed Vestibule of family, friends and industry members took their positions to watch the six themed collections. 

First up, a tough, urban collection; Renée John Baptiste an all black menswear look, with emphasis on shape and dropped or cropped silhouettes. Andrea Loaiza Giraldo’s blue skirted coat with feminine seaming was made modern with black puffa-style sleeves, while Renée Mutsunge’s floral embellishment added detail to an otherwise simple monochrome dress, with flashes of blue and white zip. Toni Elysse Wright finished the collection with a column-esque white shirt dress, with Perspex band around the bust and lime green mesh ruffle around the hips.

Daniela Silva Velasquez opened the following African inspired collection with a black halterneck gown complete with primary coloured bustier. Tim McDonagh’s grey printed menswear shorts and strong-shouldered blazer combination looked pleasantly retro, while Gabriela Guana’s simple blue sundress with white zig-zag stitching looks perfect in any era. Ellie Boothman’s grey shift dress featured printed panels of 90s style tessellated triangles at the waist and hem.

Holly Coutts opened an athletically regal collection with her sporty tennis dress, realised in red with exposed black zip and metallic mesh skirt. The following gold embellished top, featuring a squiggle pattern by Henrietta Dent, was paired with a brown midi skirt, and followed by Zhané Anjum completion of the collection; a red velvet menswear cape and white shirt with gold embroidery, pearl embellishment and chain shoulder detailing.

Things took a darker turn with Charlotte Dillon’s Victoriana structured patchwork grey and black evening gown with lace back, followed by Hayat Chehab full skirted lace dress with graphic leather modest panelling. A striking bustier by Chenai Jack stood away from the body, finished with a peach lace asymmetric skirt. Yinka Williams’ silver cross-front cape looked modern paired with the deeper shade of steel underneath, and Emily Bass’s shell embroidery on a drop-waist black tulle skirt was unexpected for a long sleeved shirt dress.

Seada Merkulaj bought mermaid ethereality to the next collection, with a navy blue gown and white heart-shaped lace overlay. An aqua and brown waterfall front utility jacket by Kayla Miles surprised when light caught the laser-cut leather panels. Niove Louca’s elegant mermaid skirted dress in neutral lace was made alluring when its backless design was revealed, while Elleanor Goodall’s grey 20s inspired tennis dress with box pleats was accented in lemon yellow.

Finally, Bella Dunne’s Perspex raincoat with black fur trim looked 60s futuristic when paired with a pastel playsuit, the raincoat dotted with the same brushstroke print. The blue, pink and orange cape dress that followed featured subtle animal prints by Tilly Tambini Cooper was a highlight for presenter Annaliese. Shalon Siqueira completed the show with a menswear coat, pink and purple in hue in sporty materials.

Following the show, jury members Alvarez, Carol Robb (freelance designer) and Dorota Watson (Head of Fashion at University of East London) announced the recipients of this year’s awards for Embellishment (Harriet Dent), Colour (Tilly Cooper) and Innovation (Shalom Siqueira). The overall winner of the Fashion Futures Award 2014, announced by Louise Ibak, was Andrea Loaiza Giraldo for her creative and commercial design.

With some serious talent on show, the jury had a tough decision on their hands. This year’s FAD finalists proved just how valuable FAD is for getting a tough break in the fashion industry, and we hope to see some of these young talents as Fashion Scout designers in their own right in the future.

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Photographs by Elizabeth Hodsin.

INTERVIEW| Freelance TWS and Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff

Ahead of the Isabel Garcia show earlier today, Fashion Scout caught up with FreelanceTWS and Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff to discuss the models’ nails that are going to complement the designer’s show.

Which inspirations did you use for the Isabel Garcia show?

The Isabel Garcia show used a specific colour nail - it was a custom design for her. The inspiration is soft, combined with rose and gold to create a flowing feminine sense. The nail colour that Isabel used custom from The Body Shop is named Quiet Rose Gold. It is a colour that consists with the base coat (Arms and Kiss). Then we used The Body Shop sugar cubes with four colours to create the rose gold effect. We fused the colour with little pigments and blended them together. By taking and crashing them over, it gave a fine pigment. It is almost dust like, so when we apply it and dot the nail, it's infused with a variety of colour.

How did colour come to life?

We are working directly with Isabel. It was fantastic! We spent time to discuss and it is amazing to collaborate our visions. I feel appreciated that we get to view the designer’s collection and to understand what the designer is trying to achieve - the feeling of the garments, colour, and texture. I can see Isabel has a sense of fun and young features on her collection so that’s how we found the collaboration and inspiration for this specific colour.

How does your team work through this?

Our team and I were tag-teaming on this. It is a two-man role. So one is applying the colour while the other is dabbing the pigment on the nails. Then we put the topcoat on the models’ nails.

How did you come to work in the nail industry?

I have a masters degree in design, so bringing the fine art and design experiences into my career it helps a lot. I worked internationally, within the United States, where I based in Miami and New York and I come to London and Paris where I travelled the globe constantly to do nails design.

How do you feel working at Fashion Scout?

This is the first time that my team and I work at Fashion Scout. It is a fantastic experience. Especially when we are able to create and collaborate with these wonderful up and coming designers. I feel such an honour to partner with them. The nail team and I are having a great time!

Nails by @lepetitnails

By Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).

Photographs by Oliver Savage, (@OliSav).

EXHIBITION| Soojin Lee SS15

As part of our Fashion Scout London exhibition, Soojin Lee joins other designers, including our Merit Award winner and Ones to Watch in a showcase of impressive upcoming talent.

Nature and vivid scenic imagery feature throughout Soojin Lee's SS15 collection. Detailed floral print is regimented in grid layouts and repeated patterning with bright tones of fuchsia, orange and green provide the core colour palette. White and navy offer a neutral base for an array of colour and print. 

Stained glass window print is featured in sleek, elegant designs and bouclé fabric along with lurex threading gives the collection a tactile quality whilst scuba mesh fabrics contrast with silk and chiffon to create a diversity of texture throughout.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).

Photographs by Vanessa Omoregie (@vnsssaa)

COLLECTION| George Styler SS15

This afternoon in the Vestibule, George Styler showed his SS15 collection. Introduced by two shirtless models wearing nothing but swimming trunks and golden embellishments on their hair, the overall vibe of the show could only be described as a mix between New York street style in the 90s, thrift shop chic and the bearings worn by a Texas pageant queen. Together, they all blended together and transported the viewer into the world of ready-to-wear today. 

Using an intricate form of web-style knitwear to create short dresses in bright shades of pink, purple, blue and yellow, the designer layered embellished jeans jackets and vintage style cardigans with naïf motives over shimmering pink corsets. Creating a candy-like look, they were topped off with golden detailing on the clothes and hair.

With bold shoulders and bold hips, the garments shown were clearly not designed for those who don’t enjoy standing out. Creating juxtaposition between opaque materials and shimmer, as well as wooly textures and jeans, the kitsch chic collection incorporated several typically extra-feminine motifs such as kittens and knitted roses in statement pieces that seemed transported straight from pre-internet times.

The short, dainty and fun dresses were created utilising an intricate decorative knitwear technique that created different spider-web like patterns, and were given movement in the beaded detailing and shimmering embroidered roses. As well as that, statement pieces created by corsets in bright pink and gold detailing topped off by yellow and pink tulle transported the onlooker into a world of candy and unstoppable partying.

Styler’s SS15 collection embodied the spirit of carefree amusement expected from the sun-lit seasons. By mixing patterns, colours and materials, the designer maintained his bold and bright identity, and topped it all off with a good dose of sugary femininity to create an exciting and creative runway show.

By Biju Belinky, (@bijubelinky).

Photographs by Celine Castillon.

COLLECTION| Isabel Garcia SS15

The Isabel Garcia SS15 collection hit the Fashion Scout catwalk in style this afternoon as creative director Elliott James Frieze displayed billowing chiffons and intricately detailed silks drawing upon Asian influences throughout the collection. 

Antique, watercolour prints came to life in delicate, airy silhouettes all exuding an elegant, ultra feminine aesthetic, cinched waists juxtaposed against floating palazzo trousers and chiffon skirts to create a striking balance of structure and fluidity. Dragonfly and butterfly print featured heavily through abstract printed chiffons and hand embroidered satin textures. 

Attention to detail is key throughout Frieze's collection with screen printing, foiling, embossed leathers and elaborate bead work taking centre stage. Accessories are oversized, with thick belts, elongated white scarves and giant tasselled bags taking to the catwalk all in sumptuous muted leathers. A series of beaded lace pieces offers a sleeker more defined silhouette to the collection as full skirted pleated dresses provide a stunning contrast. 

Kimono style dresses in muted shades of peach, aqua, lime and yellow effortlessly glide down the catwalk, beautifully embellished and trailing tassels in contrasting tones. A diverse colour palette ranges from muted pastels to lavish jewel tones as Isabel Garcia introduce us to their take on Asian inspired design.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).

Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson

EXHIBITION| Lewis&Leigh at Fashion Scout London

On the final day of Fashion Scout SS15 our Lewis&Leigh pop up is up and running in our exhibition room, showcasing the diverse collections of eight talented, young designers.

Phiney Pet presents 'For Your Amusement' - a collection inspired by the British eccentric love of the funfair, exuding nostalgia and notions of merriment throughout her designs. Pet embraces colour and illustrative print within her work.

Lucilla Gray showcases a collection rich in texture and shape, utilising a minimal colour palette of aqua-marine and white with purple toned highlights, Gray focuses on textile development within her work with raised elements adding a point of difference to her designs. Scuba fabrics form a starchy yet rounded structure to Gray's silhouettes which are occasionally contrasted with sheer more fluid options.

Inspired by aircraft and architecture, Taboka Mazura displays a collection which oozes sleek style and hints at notions of deconstruction. A colour palette of grey, dark khaki, brown and white is highlighted with weathered gold tones. A highlight of Mazura's collection comes in the form of a long line waistcoat designed with a pattern taken from a paper aeroplane.

Lu La Loop presents a plethora of colour in their collection which draws inspiration from Japanese floral prints, taking traditional prints and abstracting them to create a digital aesthetic. Lu La Loop offers up a varied colour palette featured neon tones and metallic detailing.

Christian Cowan Sanluis provides a whimsical take on cult television show 'The Beverley Hillbillies' in his collection. Channelling vibes of Dolly Parton and Shania Twain, Sanluis approaches his collection with a sense of humour, featuring patchwork jackets and hessian trousers all adorned in glitter and full on sequin detailing. Sanluis' western inspired collection bursts with country glitz and glamour.

Founded by Italian designer Ciro Supino and Swedish photographer Sara Lohman, Orphan Bird showcases a collection which beautifully reinterprets traditional tailoring resulting in timelessly elegant pieces. Cream tones add light and shade to an otherwise monochrome colour palette in Orphan Bird's architecturally inspired collection.

Contemporary womenswear designer Frances O'Leary displays a collection exuding femininity. Fluid silhouettes in airy chiffon fabrics are adorned with linear prints in a navy, aqua, pink and purple colour palette as draping details and chiffon overlays perfectly complement the aqueous nature of O'Learys' collection.

Vu by Thanh Cong Vu showcases a collection which draws inspiration from iconic female figures from his cultural background. Displaying a variation of design techniques within his collection, Vu explores draping and fine embroidery within his work, his vibrant colour palette of popping tones is highlighted with black detailing whilst his sleek silhouettes exude an air of elegant femininity.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).
Photographs by Celine Castilon.

BACKSTAGE| Isabel Garcia SS15

In preparation for the Isabel Garcia show this afternoon, The Body Shop team worked diligently to create the perfect look for make-up and nails to pair with the designer’s collection, which was soon to hit the catwalk.

With less than an hour to go, both Sandra Cooke - head make-up artist at the show, and Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff in charge of the Nails, gave us an insight into the products used for the Garcia show and their intended effect.

Head make-up artist Cooke revealed that the look would be pared back and with a focus on healthy glowing skin and a daring, matte lip. "They wanted something quite simple, with a pop of colour like a red lip, which isn't usually done for summer because you normally get oranges." Eyes are kept natural with a hint of brown shadow while eyebrows are blocked out and mascara is cast aside.

Talking about how she copes in an deadline environment with high expectations Cooke takes it in her stride: "I'm just used to it, I also think we strive on stress a bit, it's gets us going!"

Turning to the hand department, models displayed short, square nails with semi-rounded corners

Gonzalez-Longstaff revealed that models are wearing "a special unique custom blended colour combination for Isabel Garcia. She wanted a beautiful pink-gold tone to the nails, and because the Body Shop didn't exactly have this shade we came up with a colour combination using eyeshadow from their Shimmer Cube collection," - a new technique used here at Fashion Scout

Named 'Quiet Rose Gold' the team apply two coats of The Body Shop's 'Almond Kiss', a polish from their forthcoming 24-colour collection that has been described backstage as having "fashion forward colours".

"We then took a little bit of four Shimmer Cube colours: Dark Chocolate, Honeycomb, Marshmallow and Rose and blended them all together. While the nails are almost dry we take a cosmetic sponge and pat them down to start changing the hue."

The team also apply Dark Chocolate to the side of the nail in order to create a contour, as well as Rose in the centre to create a highlight.

Proud of the team's hard work, Gonzalez-Longstaff describes 'Quiet Gold Rose' as "perfect for the collection and for the models".

By Clarissa Waldron (@thisisclarissa)

Photographs by Celine Castillon

COLLECTION| Dioralop SS15

Andreja Bristricic and Maja Merlic are the duo designers behind the creative label Dioralop. Inspired by Polaroid pictures created by international spills of chemicals and exposing them to different temperatures, their signature in every collection is continued with their SS15 collection today at Fashion Scout.

A multitude of colliding textures, prominent cut-outs and separations in the fabric are used throughout the collections. Garments featured Polaroid pictures subjected to extreme temperatures of digital print patterns. Pieces were in monochromatic black and white while prints were mixed with embroidery.

When it came to the silhouette, the pair maintained their aesthetic. Tearing materials and connecting it back together, difference was lost between the sexes and the clean lines of the cuts were retained. Expressive yet simple there are elements of hems, one shoulder pieces, cut outs and wide leg trousers that add to the flavour. Artistically exceptional, with consistent colour tone appreciation throughout, Dioralop took full control with their SS15 collection.

The designer’s aesthetic creates a bold look for uncompromising, aware and individual women. They exploited the difference between genders and androgyny and showed a sense of the new generation of street fashion and subculture. 

By Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).

Photographs by Oliver Savage, (@olisav).