Saturday, 19 September 2009
Bryce d'Anice Aime
Now, where does one start with Bryce d’Anice Aime? Think Balenciaga and Mr. Pugh in glorious technicolour. The French born designer, who completed a BA in fashion design at Central St Martins in 2005, has been making news ever since for all the right reasons. Having launched his own label in just 2006, d’Anice Aime is already the talk of the fashion pack. Taking inspiration from art, architecture and philosophy, the latest collection featured slick, tight fitting dresses in mainly black and beige with the occasional flash of colour.
As the models paraded down the catwalk to what sounded like the techno music of tomorrow, the leather sculpted dresses encrusted with black sequins flashed blindingly. The silhouettes were simple, and yet still provocative with a touch of the 22nd Century.
With that in mind, try to imagine a spiked shoulder dress and enough octagons on a dress to befuddle any mathematician. And for the shoes? Black leather and gladiator themes had definitely inspired the young Mr. Bryce. One can only speculate as to what this talented young designer will unveil next season… Raf Jaworski
The Lean Green Bean Machine
Another new edition to Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season is the Lean Green Bean Machine, Andrew and Steven Boyle explain why they are the greenest coffee machine around…
It’s an LPG powered tuk tuk that is fully mobile, so it’s a street legal vehicle, mobile and it’s cute! We can be in a building like this and not emit any pollution to the environment.
Well we actually use green coffee beans instead of brown. They are sourced from Coffee Kids in South America in Venezuela and Peru, from every bag we buy the money goes straight to Coffee Kids at a fair price.
This van is the West London franchise and is run by Uncle Steven and I, I’m the brains. The Bean Machine, itself, was invented by William Overton.
There are two, one in East London and one in West London. For corporate events we have different vehicles without engines. The London franchise can do interior and exterior events; our vehicles are able to stand-alone in a field for instance.
We don’t have anything confirmed yet, we won’t till next month, but we are looking at doing all the festivals, various events in London and hundreds across the UK.
How have you found working in the fashion industry, so far?
We are really pleased and excited to be working with you guys and will hopefully be back next year. It has been really different for us!
Image: Leigh Keily
Hemyca
Mirrors and Echoes, the theme for Hemyca’s new collection by designer duo Myra Nigris and Helen Clinch, makes a bold statement about the society we live in. Models clad in sultry playsuits and near-architectural structuring pose in front of distorted mirrors as they sashay down the catwalk, breaking down the idea of identity and the way we see ourselves.
It’s summer in the city; the contradiction of sharply tailored city chic and the soft summer silhouettes play with the idea of London’s harsh landscape fighting against its sensual atmosphere. Bold graphic industrial prints hug the model in a body-con maxi dress, her skyscraper-like height ensconced within the designer duo’s infamous high-quality tailoring. The delicate satin separates in lush greens and shimmering gold leaf provide a contrasting glow to the collection.
A powerful and ultra feminine silhouette is exuberated; they’ve created a wearable and sexy style that embraces the female form for all the right reasons. Expect to look in every mirror when wearing Hemyca. Nicola Castelow
Feature image: Eddie Blagbrough
Other images: Felicity Sagoe
Feature image: Eddie Blagbrough
Other images: Felicity Sagoe
Backstage at Hemyca with Toni and Guy
The right hairstyle is the perfect complement to a designer’s show. The Fashion Scout team caught up with Tim from the Toni&Guy hair team to talk trends and ask about the inspiration behind the hair for the Hemyca show.
Fashion Scout: How did you end up being the head stylist for Toni & Guy?
Tim: Oh god, It all started twenty odd years ago. I transferred from L’Oreal and started at the bottom of the food chain as a stylist. Gosh it’s a long time!
FS: Now, the Hemyca show was all about tailoring- same thinking behind the hair?
Tim: Well, it was all about “House – Cubism”. The whole idea of wrong but right. We used synthetic wigs and made them asymmetrical using clippers instead of scissors to get the graphic lines effect.
FS: What’s the next thing in hair?
Tim: It’s all about graphic haircuts, very attention grapping styles!
Raf Jaworski
The Fashion Scout talks to the four finalists from Britain's Next Top Model
Film maker: Mikey Williamson
Presented by: Johnny Lazer
Alice Palmer
Alice Palmer’s wittily titled show ‘What Happens in Vegas…’ spilled out onto the runway to pumping, discordant beats straight from the 1980s. With inspiration coming from Sin City’s ritzy hotels, Palmer took knitwear into previously unchartered territory and made it glam, slick, heck, even sexy. A comprehensive collection of evening dresses, split up to here and down to there, with cut-away holes were thrown into the mix. Super-fine knits in fuschia, blue and muted taupe whispered around bodies and folded into luxurious drapes. The mood was rich, heavy on luxury, and steeped in feminine allure.
Images: David Coleman
Fashion Scout talks to Chris Kelly from Theatre de la Mode
Theatre de la Mode will be showing at 11.50am on Wednesday 23rd in the Presentation Hall.
Film maker: Mikey Willamson
Presented by: Johnny Lazer
Backstage at Alice Palmer - Madame Wang Xiio Feng and Mr Xie Haiping from Fashion Shenzhen
Taking a break from preparing for the Fashion Shenzhen show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Monday, Madame Wang Xiio Feng and Mr Xie Haiping were here to see the Alice Palmer show. We caught up with them in the VIP room…
“I’m really excited to see London’s emerging designers”
Madame Wang Xiio Feng - Manager at Chinese label Ground Show
Madame Wang Xiio Feng - Manager at Chinese label Ground Show
“I’m so excited to be in London. London Fashion Week is very glamorous and very special.”
Mr Xie Haiping - Designer at Chinese label Xindier who will be showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the first time on Monday.
Louise Hemmings
Images: Eddie Blagbrough and Rebecca Callaby
Mr Xie Haiping - Designer at Chinese label Xindier who will be showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the first time on Monday.
Louise Hemmings
Images: Eddie Blagbrough and Rebecca Callaby
Cooperative Designs
You know you’re at a fashion event worth going to when there’s a girl with a bird on her head . Amongst the chequered floor tiles, and carefully skirting the table laden with cupcakes, a bevy of fashionistas wandered (we spotted Gloria Baulme, Fashion Director of Teen Vogue, Katie Shillingford and Karen Langley from Dazed and Confused, and Browns Focus Buyer Jemma Dyas) sipping spicy iced tea and surveying an intricate collection of knitwear laid out on ten dressmaker’s dummies.
Putting to use again their long-standing affair with Bauhaus and architecture, Cooperative Designs showcased a graphic, geometric pod of clothing, accented with exposed brass zips and hinged, Perspex statement jewellery. Skirts rose vertiginously from back to front, block-colours shouted from cropped, draped tops and the cutest knitted shorts rose past belly buttons to meet teeny crocheted crop tops. There were knots in hems, stripes set askew and translucent layers to set it all off.
Underpinning the entire collection was a sense of the process and the raw, unpolished-ness of it all. The perfect antidote to slippery, fast fashion, Cooperative Designs have real personality – a big one at that, and one we’d quite like to be friends with. Emma Hopkinson
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
Street style outside Cooperative and KANGst - Niels Oostenbrink
Occupation: Model and student
Which show are you here to see? Kangst
What is your inspiration? I love Diesel and Prada, but I shop at Topshop and H&M. My style is chic and street.
What is your favourite item of clothing you are wearing? My shoes
Image: Yumi Yoshinaga
Image: Yumi Yoshinaga
KANGst
Korean designer Jade Kang packed out the main catwalk hall this afternoon, with Vauxhall Fashion Scout interns rushing around in order to squeeze every last guest in. It seemed everyone wanted to see just what summer looked like for the LCF graduate - a playful use of chiffon, silk and organza creating floaty, dreamlike, feminine dresses.
The main feature of the show was the ruffled fabric rippling down all of the garments, producing a flirty, curvaceous silhouette that reflected a Spanish influence. Flashes of citrus orange and emerald green took centre stage away from the beige and warm whites of the body suits and floor-length dresses, with printed chiffon adding an extra dimension. The ballooned sleeved jackets and asymmetric dresses were the staple pieces, using soft fabrics to create curvy and exaggerated silhouettes. Hard embellishment on the shoulders and inserts of black juxtaposed rigid elements within the girly garments.
Extremely fun and feminine, the collection accentuated the female form - creating movement, a Latin sensuality and setting a playful tone on the catwalk. Jennifer Hore
Images: David Coleman
Who's that girl? Vauxhall Fashion Scout interviews DJ Andre J
When we saw this fabulous creature wearing a creation by Ioannis Dimitriousis we had to stop him/her to get the lowdown…
Film maker: Mikey Williamson
Presented by: Johnny Lazer
Susie Bubble (in a bubble...)
We love Susie Bubble and her cult fashion blog Style Bubble . Great to see Ms Bubble here again this season!
Image: David Mauder
Olanic
The memory of a childhood ballet class springs to mind as whimsical classical strains play as an introduction to Niki Taylor’s new Olanic (an anagram of her full name – Nicola) collection – inspired by her love of all forms of dance. As the first model takes to the catwalk we are soon re-introduced to Taylor’s classic mix of cute, playful designs with a sharp twist of rockstar glamour, along with the pumping beats.
This juxtaposition is carried throughout the collection; quirky floral prints and bow appliqués are matched with high-luxe metallic belts, pastel studs and heavy suede. The ballet shoe is warped into a pink suede, multi-strapped wooden platform heel, flashes of bronze on patchwork wet-look leggings and twists of black lurex rope create the ultimate in 1980s high-octane glamour.
The showstopper from the Glaswegian designer is a strikingly micro mini dress in rose gold leather, exquisitely tailored with her ubiquitous punkish overtones. Rock on Olanic.
Nicola Castelow
Images: David Coleman
Images: David Coleman
Friday highlights from The Fashion Scout TV
Film maker: Mikey Williamson
Presented by / music by: Johnny Lazer
Romina Karamanea
Romina Karamenea showcased her third solo collection this morning in the grand surroundings of the Vauxhall Presentation Hall. The Saint Martins graduate is known for her innovative pattern cutting and love of sculptural design - and this season the collection proved just that. Using a monochrome colour palette of soft black, off-white and grey, the designer made the geometric patterns and tailored garments the epitome of modern chic. A short, artistically eerie film of a girl chopping her long locks into a rigid bob started off the show. The music and lights gradually intensified to full power as the first model strode out.
Each one sported a ‘hacked at’ hairstyle, which contrasted against their fluid silhouettes. An array of silk jersey dresses and box shouldered boleros gave a variety of silhouettes, creating structural forms. The high waist skirt was a key piece throughout, styled with cropped, long sleeve jackets - all shown in an array of demure shades and embellished with metal eyelets. Panels were laced together to create a running theme of disconnection and everything being disjointed, proportionately.
Colour clashes were harsh but the garments, feminine and shapely, all flattering the body. Overall a graphic and edgy collection, with each piece perfectly wearable for summer. Jennifer Hore
Images: Eddie Blagbrough
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