COLLECTION| Shao Yen AW12

After battling our way through the adoring crowds at the Shao Yen installation at Freemason’s Hall, Vauxhall Fashion Scout managed to appreciate for ourselves the effortless beauty that exuded from her work.  Emanating modernism and a contemporarily simple aesthetic, Shao Yen’s collection was the perfect antidote to the bustling space. 

In electric hues of blue and orange, the collection was as dramatic as it was minimalist.  Introducing ‘street’ twists, such as caps, to high fashion garments, Shao Yen succeeded in creating a collection that was both classically skillful and excitingly fresh. 

Abigail Gurney-Read VFS Contributor

Follow her @AbbyGurneyRead
Photography Natalia Ilina

LFW Day 5 - Maria Francesca Pepe Presentation

 Maria Francesca Pepe has created a mysterious underworld in the vestibule. Pagan patterns in salt fence off mannequins and fairy like models who fit seamlessly into the secretive, coded Masonic interiors. The atmosphere felt like a discovery of an ancient burial ground or a new dimension, and we were explorers and scientists studying pixie life forms and cult rituals. As Maria put it herself she aimed for a “magical and enchanting fairytale”. The three models had spritely features with enormous eyes, tiny noses and thin porcelain flesh. It was as though these creatures had been captured and preserved, it was a shock to see their big, black eyes flash and their chests rise and fall with gentle breaths. They were dusted with a pearl powder and watery crystals. These models bore a remarkable resemblance to Minority Report’s ‘Pre-Cogs’ in terms of their delicate innocence and foreign character.

The jewellery was harsh and aggressive with more tender clothing, they worked as one being; a collaborated costume. There were unicorn horns embellished with small gold studs growing from hooded faces. These were adorned with delicate metal and crystal masks. Chunky centipedes of gold became cuffs and chokers enhanced with yet more pointed studs. Gothic church cabinets encased considered jewellery displays on animal horns, adorned with gnarled prints of the fairy life forms. The safety pin words and letters are very wearable and serve a dual purpose as decoration and fastening. Many pieces were relevant in current jewellery trends with grungy three finger rings and dangling religious and cult symbols. Show stoppers were elbow brushing leather cuffs bejewelled with gold and pearl studs and knee high, distressed leather shin pads. The shoes were elegantly minimalist juxtaposed with harsh gold spears through the ankles and animal heads. Pepe sees her jewellery as “amulets”. The garments were subtle and elegant. Pepe used stretch sheer to create an entire body suit. There were structural leather pieces which came in the form of crop tops and loose waistcoats. Modest jersey leggings and tube skirts were teamed with graphic printed tees. The colour palate was simple black and off-white accented with gold and pearl jewellery.  A striking and memorable exhibition with high desirable and dramatic wearable pieces. 

Words : Charlotte Summers
Images : Ezzidin Alwan
Illustration : Andy Bumpus

LFW Day 4 - Felicities Presents

The established PR and Sales company, who offer a business support system for design talents, exhibited five of their youngest womenswear brand today. Guests were greeted with delectable Tramezzino sandwiches and delicious vodka cranberry drinks, accompanied by an upbeat soundtrack including Queen’s ‘Under Pressure’. The beautiful vestibule held diverse creations from Saffron Knight, LALL London, Rainbow Winters, Evmorfia and CC Kuo.

Firstly, I admired Knight’s quirky, unique constructions. The three looks were ornamented by jagged, felt masks and hats with silk scarves attached in folded patterns. To contrast the black felt, she utilised printed silk echoing futuristic architecture with bubbling metallic colours like metaphorical lava. Her pieces consisted of a maxi dress, layered midi skirt and collarless high neck shirt.

LALL presented less formal couture representing a new casual luxury. Hip outfits included a wet look cropped jacket paired with a sheer embellished top and a sequin blazer with black harem style trousers.

For Rainbow Winters simplicity was key and the collection pieces were unusual but incredibly wearable. The colour palette used bold royal blue, black, white and vermilion tones in geometric designs. I focused on the capped sleeve, silk maxi dress that experimented with shape successfully. Interestingly, the items glow under UV light to switch seamlessly from day to night.

The eponymous label Evmorfia showcased luxurious fabrics transformed by meticulous craftsmanship. Statement gold zips were attached to structural coats with patent black leather detail and crimson lining. Gold buttons also added an eye catching feature, and cream netting was glimpsed beneath a black and cream mesh dress.

Lastly, the edgy CC Kuo revealed her third collection. Accentuated graphic shapes such as the black quilted mini dress with pointed shoulders were seen along with an oversized chunky knit cardigan with dull silver, rhombus-shaped buttons.

Although remarkably diverse, the five designers of ‘Felicities Presents’ displayed thrilling, contemporary pieces.

Words : Tess Stam
Images : Ezzidin Alwan

LFW Day 3 - Angela Cassidy Presentation Review

The atmosphere at Angela Cassidy’s presentation this morning was just as tranquil and cool as the clothing itself. The folky sounds of Bon Iver and Bat for Lashes soothed the room, whilst guests took the opportunity to lust over the latest offering from this Scottish knitwear designer. Inspired by coloured landscapes, cloud formation and water, Cassidy’s creations reflected its theme of nature through a soft colour palette: ‘Oaty’ and ’earthy’ hues were seen on finely knit ribbed leggings as well as chunky jumper dresses, with a hint of ‘burnt orange’ subtly highlighting key pieces. Interesting features such as reversed seams and oversized pockets placed onto scarves added a unique and unusual component to these cashmere staples… A very beautiful yet extremely wearable collection for autumn.

Words : Sarah Barlow
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden

LFW Day 2 - Una Burke Presentation Review

 

This season Una Burke is not only an exhibitor in our London Fashion Week Exhibition she is also holding a presentation in our showroom. Her A/W 11 collection entitled ‘Meta.Morph’ was illustrated through a short fashion film and a display of key pieces, as well as some stunning wetplate photography from Stefan Sappert.

Una’s collection of leather body braces was inspired by the work of disabled artist Nicola Lane. The social and mental effects of disability influenced the direction of Una Burke’s fashion film. Collaborating with film director Andreas Waldschutz and with creative directing from Adia Trischler, the experimental film showcasing Una’s designs is purposely uncomfortable and nerving. Taking inspiration from Michael Snow’s iconic 1967 film ‘Wavelength’, the film jars and jumps showing the model staggering around confused and trapped; only to finish with a crowd of clone-like simpletons laughing like clowns as the poor girl in body braces collapses. The model in the film is portrayed as a freakish character and most of her face is covered by the sculptured accessories that hide her identity – a theme Una has followed; the unwarranted shame of having a disability.

The pieces are intricately constructed using soft leather in a range of dark colours; the strips of leather are folded and held in place by studs and bolts. The complexity of the structures is baffling, but they would be a fabulous way to add a harder edge to a simple look.  

Words : Louisa Kilburn

Images : Lucas Seidenfaden 

Illustration : Andy Bumpus

Posthuman Wardrobe Fashion Film

Film has increasingly become the ‘number one’ medium for showcasing a new collection or a fashion story. As well as successful runway shows, presentations and exhibitions this season, some of our designers including Carianne Moore and Posthuman Wardrobe have also opted to present their designs to the world through a digital form by creating short Fashion films.

Posthuman Wardrobe’s film presents us with an ‘urban’ aesthetic conveyed through street fighting and break dancing which was also featured at their London Fashion Week presentation last month.


Sarah Barlow

Menswear Day : Agi&Sam

 

 

A throng of fashionistas and photographers descended on the presentation room at Vauxhall Fashion Scout this afternoon to witness the fashion week debut of Agi&Sam, the exciting young menswear label currently the talk of Freemasons Hall. The narrow entrance to the grand art-deco space where the duo’s second collection, titled The Native American Colonisation of the United States, is being held is momentarily blocked with eager photographers shooting the elaborate installation created by the duo and expert art directors from the Off World project.

Models clad in hand-crafted moccasins, ankle grazing slim fit slacks and blazers, in a kaleidoscopic array of colours, textures and prints, lounge lazily in a space littered with dirt, dead leaves, antiques  and animal bones.  The looks are playful and styled with quirky accessories including on-trend rucksacks and animal bone jewellery.

A model with poker straight long hair wears tobacco coloured slacks, a tailored shirt with a hazy print effect in black, burnt orange, green and crimson and a simplistic Indian-woven trench coat and fedora,  displaying the collections affinity with an earthy Native American aesthetic but a desire to make clothes which are covetable, contemporary, and above all, cool.

Amongst the crowd we spotted an up-and-coming talent of the musical variety, UK music producer Labyrinth, who was decked out in clothes from this collection and gushed “I love these guys and what they do!” Labyrinth wore slim-fit baby blue trousers with a ‘dead bodies’ print inspired by a Wild West movie, teamed with a crisp white Agi&Sam shirt and Louis Vuitton quilted bomber.

Words & Images : Alex Fynn O'Neill
Illustrations : Vic Riches

Menswear Day : studio_805

5 models stood, elevated over the audience, dripping in textures and body paint. The looks appeared to be inspired by utility, camouflage, guerilla militia and predators.

Reeds and leafy branches bound with straps rested on chests as models stood hooded and cloaked in camouflage prints. One model posed in an all black outfit, a web of harnesses stretched across his chest, revealed beneath a low swinging vest and a pair of bunched black shorts, volume and gathers created with backpack staps. 

Neon orange, high-vis brights contrasted the darker camos. Looking at each look lined up, I was reminded of camping and sleeping bags, as straps, and braces around the torso and feet created tensions.

There were towering antlers wrapped in illuminated orange tape and cheetah prints decorated the skin. Never failing to produce dramatic and conceptual designs, menswear designer Andrew Banister presented a graphic and imaginative collection.

Words : Lara Angol

Images : Alex Fynn O'Neill 
Illustrations : Vic Riches

Menswear Day : Post Human Wardrobe

As Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Exhibition Hall was prepared for today’s menswear presentations, I sneaked to the forefront of the action to admire Nimesh Gadhia’s debut collection, ‘Ethereal Conflict’. Instead of the archetypal male models strutting around, I witnessed Gadhia’s choice of expert black-belt fighters who were warming up on suitably coloured teal gym mats. This reminded me of the purpose behind Post Human Wardrobe, “a contemporary menswear brand that takes traditional elements of men’s tailoring and garment construction and applies them to various extreme physical disciplines”. I got a detailed look at some of his pieces before the show even began, absorbed by the neutral colour scheme, ranging from navy to white via khakis and greys. The presentation began in time to a modern, upbeat dance track and the martial art wrestlers performed a striking piece highlighting their incredible flexibility and strength. Their movement emphasised the stretch and durability of the clothes, as they appeared in contemporary suits, stripping their black jackets off to reveal fitted shirts with skinny ties. Others wore outfits constructed of asymmetric lines with skewed cut shirts.

The presentation finished with a vivid short video, shot in greyscale. The audience were entranced by a montage of behind the scenes action, filmed at an angle. Male silhouettes signified power as a fourth figure leapt over in a final display of supremacy. The music died to the thud of men’s feet hitting the floor.

As the rest of the viewers were left in a daze, gripped by Nimesh’s creative flair, I was able to chat to him about what we’d just observed!

What was your inspiration when designing ‘Ethereal Conflict’?

I was interested in Brazilian Martial Arts, Jujitsu and Capoeira, and wanted to explore the freedom of movement behind this and transfer it to the clothes I make. I wanted to create practical menswear by applying traditional methods and technique. Because I gave so much attention to patterns and the method behind clothes construction, I kept the colours quite neutral to avoid overkill.

Are you enjoying exhibiting with Vauxhall Fashion Scout for London Fashion Week?

Yes thanks. It has been hectic to arrange everything for today but fashion’s fashion and it’s going really well so far. 


Words : Tess Stam
Images : Alex Fynn O'Neill

Fashion Shenzhen Exhibition Review

As I entered the Shenzhen exhibition I found myself walking into a refreshingly calm and elegant scene. Neatly merchandised stands exhibited collections from an array of Shenzhen based designers. Splashes of crisp reds and greens were dotted around the room between rails of muted stone hues and earthy prints. A favorite was ‘Awkening’ a collection by fashion production company HuanJue Garment Co. who’ve centred their label around sustainability in both production and design. Dresses that appeard to be silk and leather were indistinguishable from the real thing yet made by alternative processes. The collection featured litteral prints, Ice caps, water and images of the north pole making a social comment on the effect of fashion on global warming. Fashion label Elassay also presented a tactile and wearable collection, billowy feminine blouses and a woven silk gold tunic that looked like shredded gold stood out in particular. On the whole the exhibition, with it’s relaxed boutique atmosphere, displayed a highly wearable selection of ultra chic separates that would undoubtedly appeal to the masses.

Words by Lara Angol 

Images by Nicole Trundle

House of Blueeyes: Fashion Week Film

The House of Blueeyes presentation was undoubtedly more wild, raucous and fantastically crazy than anything we witnessed over Fashion Week, and judging by the amount of jaws on the floor and eyes on stalks, the audience of experienced show-goers were equally as awestruck. Loud, proud and always with a sexy swagger in his hips and a smile on his face, Johnny has made this fabulous film of his AW10 presentation, reminding us all just why we adore him. Negative attitudes, look away now, heeeeere’s Johnny!

Fiona Anderson

studio_805

 

  

 

The cold weather outside has got me excited about seeing all the Autumn / Winter collections and I was even more thrilled to start menswear day with an Arctic freeze theme at studio_805’s presentation. A new direction for the brand, not a shade of red in sight, and only subtle hints of his signature checker print in a blue and white fur dress.

Wind machines and a soundtrack of blizzards being played set the atmosphere and the collection carried on the wintry theme. One female and five male models stood around the well-lit edge and as spectators circled the inside.

Pale blue fleecy jumpsuit with white snowflakes printed all over styled with brown pilot goggles. A dark blue denim harem romper covered in long white ribbons was blowing in the wind. An a-line gathered neck white shirt worn over thick white long-johns. The shirt was covered in fringing detail made of plastic beads hanging from shoulders and in a headpiece like a patch over the eye.

Blue camouflage baggy trousers over a hooded and gloved blue Lycra all in one.  White harnesses cover the torso like a faux rucksack, while a chunky plastic white zip is wrapped around the face. The fetish dream continued with a silver liquid lame gimp suit with gloved feet and mask. Now I know where I have been going wrong in the freezing temperatures outside, I wasn’t wearing a studio_805 all in one.

Words: Emma Drinnan
Images: Kristen Blow

Braille

Rising menswear stars Benjamin Vorono and Samuel Kientsch aka Braille held their first presentation here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout today after being exhibiting designers through out the week.

The collection is beautiful and exquisitely made with almost all materials being sourced in the UK. Luxurious wools form Yorkshire sit alongside shirting from the midlands and cotton from Scotland. All the fabrics used are natural materials including salmon fish skin, a by-product of the food industry, which was used to create one of the most unique and beautiful shirt collars seen at fashion week. The guys plan an accessories line using this unusual material next season.

Shirts are finished with delicate mother of pearl and horn buttons, which give everyday wearable items a subtle elegance.

The most coveted item has to be the stunningly simple waxed cotton cape with wool lining. Like many of the items it has been designed for practicality but with a stylish twist.

They told us “you should be able to have functional clothes that you can wear and still be quite elegant…we’re trying to make things that we want to wear and that guys would be attracted to.”

Wool cycling trousers paneled with the waxed cotton featured throughout the collection - perfect to wipe away any puddle splashes.

The colour palette of burnt orange, turquoise and mid brown lifted the black.

The collection is tactile and textural and looks set to be a huge success. We can’t wait to see what this talented young duo come back with next time.

Words: Kelly Morris

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

Beekay

Beekay’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection was inspired by trees, looking at their round circumferences and the shapes made from the branches. “I wanted to challenge myself by using a very simple starting point and seeing what I could do with it, and how I could develop it.” Evidence of how the circular tree trunk has inspired the collection is clear in the structure of the garments, everything is round: the hoods, the panelling and zips.  Usually inspired by a story, Beekay used the pressure he felt for a second collection and cycle of his thoughts as a point of inspiration.

The collection is entirely black, broken up by denim trousers coated with latex glue to add a silver sheen, and a frenzy of YKK zips. YKK, the globally recognized zip company, have played a key part in assisting Beekay’s current collection and he is due to sign with them for further involvement in the future. The jackets and t-shirts are made from suede and jersey to create a very comfortable, wearable collection.

After working three seasons for Aminaka Wilmont, there is definite evidence of how this influenced Beekay, not just in the grungy, moody tone of the collection but also the use of print, which you can see in his t-shirts, and leather. Julius Garden, Beekays favourite menswear designer, has helped mould his designs in to a distinctive, experimental and wearable brand.

Beekay explained how the work of Vauxhall Fashion Scout is important platform when it comes to showing menswear as an up and coming designer,  “I’m really happy with all the support and exposure and I’m looking forward to showing with them again next season.” His next collection is remaining under wraps although Beekay hinted that “bugs” may be an element of his next concept. 

Words: Christine Pettman

Images: Eddie Blagbrough

Fashion Film Club

Last night I entered a dark room and took a seat in front of the projector to see The Fashion Film Club Presentation. I am sure you will remember our shout out to find designers with a fashion film. Lara from the club was inundated and a selection of videos previewed in the presentation room. I love the collision of fashion and film and enjoy watching the clothes and models move to music which sum up the tone of the collection perfectly.

The first film by menswear label Cottweiler aka Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell had no soundtrack, just heavy breathing. Three men changing in and out of clothes, senses alerted to the rub of fabric against skin and dropping garments to the floor. The sight of a shirt hanging on a peg slowly moving in the wind. All at once silence. Three men fully clothed walked towards the camera in a large open air field, jovial pushing and laughing. A sudden heavy beat starts as they walk into the distance. View the film at  Cottweiler.com.

Ada Zanditon’s film is shot in black and white, a personal favourite of mine. A large spotlight shone on a solitary model waving a human sized jet black flag. The flapping movement in a grainy out of focus shot is just beautiful. I can only presume the action is inspired by bats which her AW10 collection is based on. A large rope dangles down the centre of the light and the image of a model swinging around it is repeated across the screen. The kaleidoscopic monochrome pattern where moving faces, rope and body merge into each other.

Marko Mitanvokski showed the other black and white film featuring his gothic black corset paneled in lace, pleated neck ruffs and long pointed finger patent gloves. Seeing them move is just fascinating to watch, the antler hair however stays static, along with the models deadpan expression. A heavy beating drum with the eerie sound of a violin on top, the model pops to the beat. The video has been edited to repeat and skip seconds of the film to create jumpy movements. The haunting image of blood dripping from her mouth is the final shot.

Lidja and Dejan’s film shows a cropped shot of a model in full colour, her movements slowed down and faded into each other, her arms move to cover her face. Every actions speed is edited to work into the timing of the music. The model in Lidja and Dejan's ruched creation is stood centre with her body repeated four times around in a split screen, the pillared vase looking objects frame the stop start juddering dance.

The imagery in the last film on show was stunning. An endless marsh of water with floating islands of turf, cracked dry earth an eagle in a tree.  Viewing through a spy hole telescope which narrowed into the centre of the screen.  Flocks of birds flying in formation across the sky through bursts of sunlight. Not so much coverage of the clothing, a model in a long cream jacket stood in the woods, auburn hair flicking with every tilt of her head. Faced forward you can see a band of shiny metal masking her face. The unsettling imagery of the fast motion flapping movement looks like scuttling creatures from a Hitchcock film. They rapidly join to make a large sphere hovering over the beautiful scenery.  Shot by Mikey Ashley and clothing by Milena Silvano.

Posted by Emma Drinnan

Images: Doh Lee

Rachel Freire

With an insanely big crowd milling and a constant stream of flustered make-up artists, PRs and assistants running in and out of the backstage door, Rachel Freire seems to be causing quite a stir.  The doors opened, the media folk lunged forwards, and, once all inside, the show could start. 

First to saunter down the makeshift catwalk and through the crowd was a sleek, black dress, with raggedy, matted braids of fabric cascading down from the shoulder as the model gazed at the crowd through black-as-night eyes.  A long, lithe, rubber catsuit in bronze was up next, with precise black piping to define and sculpt the silhouette.  Huge, oversized frills in the form of enormous shoulder capes and outrageously fabulous collars featured, as they stretched up towards the heavens in feathery, textured lace and, again, adorned with dangling braids.  The star of the show was a vast, exaggerated, mirror ball-style shoulder piece, which momentarily transformed the model into a stunning, glittering warrior, as it twinkled and danced in the light.  A sequinned, crystal encrusted silver veil continued the reflective theme, as did a nude bodysuit draped in miles of long, glimmering plastic strips, which traipsed and trailed delicately along the floor. 

Excellent construction is clearly Freire’s speciality, as a number of expertly made headpieces dominated this accomplished collection.  Echoing the shape of a laced up corset, one stretched and curved over the head like a towering horse’s mane, laced up with taught, cream ribbons.  Another curved and swept up either side of the head, with cage-like laces strung across the face and tumbling down over the torso.  Peach coloured suspenders held up rubber stockings in pewter tones, and sleek, structured heels finished off the look to a tee.  Freire’s pieces were staggeringly beautiful and would have looked even more impressive on the runway.  Time and time again, each look drew gasps from the crowd thanks to the breathtaking detail and costume-like aesthetic.  Without doubt this collection was well worth the wait. 

     

Words: Fiona Anderson

Images: Kristen Blow