EXCLUSIVE| Phoebe English Pre-LFW Interview

To celebrate there being just two weeks until London Fashion Week and Vauxhall Fashion Scout's SS13 showcase, we've got an exclusive interview with last season's Merit Award winner Phoebe English. Phoebe talks to the VFS blog team exclusively to discuss her recent fashion films and future SS13 showcase. 

You've recently worked with SHOWstudio through your two day live stream; how did the opportunity to work with the site, and Nick Knight come about?
SHOWstudio kindly contacted us in regards to making a costume for the dancer Leah Debrincat, i think they were drawn to my work as it has negated themes of frenetics and movement in the past.

What is it about representing your aesthetic through film that attracts you to the format- do you see it as another [separate] creative outlet, or a medium supporting your clothes?
I see the films as a completely separate component from the collection. The thought process and development of these pieces differs greatly from working on the clothes. It is often not until the period of time after a collection is finished do i have the time and energy to fully understand what informed that body of work, I use this latent realisation to inform the thematics which I explore in the films. The medium of film is still very new to me and I feel i have only just begun to comprehend it and realise its potential.

Do you see your representation of AW12 through film as one that corresponds with the 'Phoebe English Girl' (customer) that you would expect to see in your clothes? 
The styling we use in the film is specifically planned as a method to explain the possibilities of how to actually wear our pieces. Despite the heavy overtones of fantasy within the film the actual breakdown of the clothes into new ideas of styling them is exactly how Rose and I would like the ideal 'Phoebe English' girl to take control of her wardrobe and be imaginative enough to reinterpret our product into her own ideas of dressing. 

You will be showcasing your SS13 collection once again with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in September- what can we expect from this collection? Will you be maintaining the colourful streak that shocked last season, or something different altogether? 
When i start thinking about a new body of work, i always think about in terms of where i have been before and where i would like to now go, my thought process is in equal parts and similtaneously; an evolution and revolution. You will have to watch and see!

How do you feel Vauxhall Fashion Scout and our Merit Award has impacted your career?
It has a pleasure to have been so supported and nurtured by such a wonderful and passionate team of people.

See Phoebe English's SS13 collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Freemason's Hall on Sunday 16th September at 4.00pm. 

Images taken from Phoebe English's AW12 film
Text by Cass Gowing

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS13| Timur Kim

Hailing from St Petersburg, Russia designer Timur Kim presented his first collection at the age of 16 in St Petersburg Fashion Week. Making a name for himself the young designer moved to London in 2006 where he was offered a place on the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins winning the Chloe award in 2011 as well as the Pringle of Scotland award twice.

His inspirations range from the modest denim skirt to more extravagant references such as Dr Zhivago and early 20^th century Russia. Timur Kim’s CSM A/W 12 graduate collection focuses on bringing sophistication, wear-ability, and modernity together. Clean lines and mixed fabrics create complexity within the simplicity of his designs. Playing with the contrast between fabrics, he uses denim and velvet to bring a luxury to everyday wear.

The young designer has received praise from publications such as Vogue as well as from SHOWstudio’s Alex Fury for his delicate balance between fabrics, and interesting take on femininity. Timur will be showing his new collection on the catwalk on Friday 15^th September as well as showcasing his line in our exhibition space throughout LFW.

By Vanessa Omoregie, @wewearblack

COLLECTION| Anne Sofie Madsen Spring/Summer '13

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In her three-season run, previous VFS ‘One to Watch’, and Paris-exhibitor, Anne Sofie Madsen has established an aesthetic inherently dark at it’s core- roots embedded in the history of mythical tribes, and indigenous peoples- yet opposed in it’s lightness; diaphanous chiffon a fixed composite of each season.

This season, the latter-“lightness” took center, showing skin through sheer bodies, and delicate, pleat-skirted dresses- but there was the same spirit in the eyes of Madsen’s girl. The same socketed, furrowed glare more conspicuously mirrored by previous season’s barbuous cut-outs. Spring/ Summer saw Anne Sofie add literal depth to her aggressive skeletal cut-out- featuring it more regularly, but lifting it from leather, to three-dimensional bone-chip pailettes- more integrated into designs, as opposed to appearing distinctly separate.

Perhaps that’s the crux of Madsen’s Spring/ Summer- be it for marketability, or just the fact that it’s Summer, and we’re stripping off; “lighter” on the whole (in theory). Given the heavy-duty baseball sweaters, with their whipstitch wrists- more catered to changeable weather- we’d think the former, with the introduction of “street-wear” jackets a wearable extension of the Madsen girl’s established ‘tude.

It ties in with the designer-illustrator’s printed, scenic tees- and now, skirts: a microcosm of the “Anne Sofie” aesthetic. It’s an aesthetic with scope, whose source has as much depth as the new season’s dimensions, and layered, embellished, sculptural dresses and skirts. 

There's skill beyond craft; every decision is calculated; inspirations manifested by way of subtle tokens. It's that considered approach to embedding wearability beneath a statement that had us call her out as "One-to-Watch". 

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS13 | Taeseok Kang

From London College of Fashion’s MA Fashion Artefact course, Taeseok Kang is the young designer from Korea that pushes the boundaries of design with unique handcrafted bags.

The collection titled Sexual Humorous translates the human body and explores themes of androgyny as well as the “palpable sensations that manifest from the sexual instinct of a human”. Using vegan leather, hair used as tassels, and even gold plated casts of actual nipples this is a collection that goes beyond the norm. The bags range in size and shape, illustrating perfectly the theme of the human body. Almost surrealist, Taeseok Kang introduces us to a new perspective on design that celebrates the provocative and the taboo.

Since being developed in 2007, London College of Fashion’s MA Fashion Artefacts course has been famed for producing designers who are individuals in their own right, such as Taeseok who play with techniques and ideas that introduce us to new ideas and concepts. Taseseok has already been handpicked for new heights - he was a semi-finalist in International Talent Support (ITS) 2012, alongside ITS 2012 Accesories winner and VFS designer Victoria Spruce. 

We look forward to seeing more of Taeseok Kang, as one of many talented designers exhibiting at Vauxhall Fashion Scout from 14^th September to 18^th September.

By Vanessa Omoregie

Twitter: @wewearblack

Images from Vogue Italia and BFW

NEWS| VFS alumni Eudon Choi joins Selfridges

As a pioneer for new and emerging design talent, we're always ecstatic when our Vauxhall Fashion Scout alumni hit new highs and last week, it was announced that former Merit Award winner, Eudon Choi's AW12 collection is now stocked in luxury fashion store Selfridges. 

The RCA graduate, who began his career in Korea as a menswear designer, was scouted by the VFS selection panel three years ago – shortly after his eponymous womenswear label was created. As recipient of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch accolade in 2010, followed by the Merit Award prize for his SS11 collection, we made sure that Choi was a name to know.

Eudon’s career has been growing strength by strength since being catapulted by VFS, he has showcased his SS12 collection at Milan Fashion Week in honour of The Vogue Fashion Fund whilst he has also been awarded with the Samsung Fashion and Design Fund and the LYCRA® Style Emerging Talent Award at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards in New York. It seems being stocked in Selfridges is just the next step in his progression as a womenswear label to reckon with.

We tweeted our congratulations to Eudon as soon as we heard the news and he replied, “thank you. This day would not have been possible without the amazing platform you provided”.

When we say ‘ones to watch’, we mean business – so make sure you don’t miss our SS13 Ones to Watch showcase featuring Charlotte Simpson, Hellen van Rees, Ming Pin Tien and Hana Cha on Saturday 15th September. 

By Editor Cass Gowing, 
Images from VFS Blog and Eudon Choi

ANNOUNCEMENT| Paris Showroom SS13

Following our Spring/ Summer ‘12 catwalk, and presentation showcases, many of our designers will be joining us overseas to exhibit their collections to international buyers, and press in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Showroom.

The showroom, located in historic art district, Le Marais, will take place aside Paris Fashion Week proceedings, between September 27^th, and October 2^nd.

Designers confirmed to take part so far include, Spring/ Summer Merit Award winner Heohwan Simulation, and members of the ‘One to Watch’ line-up, Charlotte Simpson, and Hellen van Rees.

The rest of the designers exhibiting with us in the French capital are as follows:

The showroom will be located at 23 Rue de Roi de Sicile, 75004, and is open to buyers, and members of the press.

RSVP to Press@FSI-event.com

More details to be announced upon confirmation.

Follow for updates @FashionScout

NEWS| Joseph Turvey knitwear featured in 'Interview' shoot

If you were to look back over the past months' coverage of menswear 'One to Watch', Joseph Turvey, one fact that'd stand out is how recently the London College of Fashion MA grad stepped away from his studies. Classroom to catwalk in weeks, for someone who only finished his degree in February, it's testament to his talent that he's already been picked a favourite by Vogue, featured in the pages of i-D, and now in an editorial online with Interview.

The piece is an editorial "how to" by renowned hair-stylist Charlie le Mindu; lensed by photographer Mari Sarai. See Turvey's MA collection knit, and a tutorial on the latest hair-care, and trends for men online with Interview mag here now.

Also read our review of Joe's Spring/ Summer collection, as showcased with London Collections: Men back in June.