Saturday, 15 September 2012

COLLECTION| Melissa Diamantidi S/S13

A collection with the purpose of exploring the power of light and our perception of it, Melissa Diamantidi's S/S13 collection was a journey through nothing but. The show started with white pieces that whispered fragility. The show continued to move onto black pieces that enforced a sense of power. All simple in their design, clean in their cut and sculpted in an architectural, avant-garde style, power was combined with beauty and fragility with strength. Featuring subtle zip details, the transparent features on the fresh looking fabrics seemed to flirt with seduction, creating a timeless silhouette of textures and abstract angles. The silks and reflective materials used only served in re-enforcing that abstract, altered perception of light the designer was hoping to achieve.
A graduate of the prestigious Parson's School of Design in New York, she launched the label in 2009, creating statement pieces. Since then, she's produced all of her pieces in London. Her S/S13 collection was inspired by the American avant-garde artist Anthony McCall, referencing his sculptural experiments with light to produce something ready for the catwalk. The young-looking, simple hair and make up, combined with the repetitive music and the garments transformed Diamantidi's collection into an elegant, structured yet beautifully wearable collection.

Text by Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)
Images by Stephanie Matti

CATWALK| Spijkers en Spijkers S/S13

Spijkers en Spijkers SS13 Catwalk Show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Images by Christopher Dadey

COLLECTION| Spijkers en Spijkers S/S13

Entitled ‘La Femme Paysage’ Dutch duo Truus and Reit Spijkers featured earthy tones with crisp cut lines authenticated simple streamline dresses. Their inspiration came from the work of Sonia Delauney, an artist known for her painted geometric shapes. An 20’s theme ran throughout, with a more modern, colourful take on the era.

Luisa Casati, the Italian muse was a key icon from the collection; her image printed across dresses and skirts. The simplicity to this collection gave an almost poetic feel, as models glided along the catwalk with the fabric free-flowing. The cut itself was flattering to the female form whilst still maintaining an air of looseness. Lace with horizontal silk stripes adorned dresses with intricately cut patterns. The mixture of sharp detailing using bold shapes as well as the delicate manner of the lace showed the duos versatility within design.

Spijkers en Spijkers delivered another exceptional display of craftsmanship and romanticism. With their trademark style now developing with the ever growing following that they gain, the two sisters made sure the collection was simple yet unforgettable.

Text by Lora O'Callaghan, VFS contributor
Follow her on Twitter @loraocallaghan

BACKSTAGE| Spijkers en Spijkers S/S13

Backstage at Spijkers en Spijkers there is a definite 'twisted Gatsby' feel. The team of hair and make-up artists - Toni and Guy and The Body Shop, respectively - are showcasing a gargantuan selection of talent on a predominately blonde group of models.
In the depths of a neutrally coloured collection, these models fit right in. Label M's Volume Mousse has been mixed with Resurrection Dust to create loose and teased waves at the crown of the head which twist down and around into a half-ponytail/half-chignon. The complete look is finalised with a bohemian addition of a soft piece of string around the forehead.
With Pebbles Nails on talons, the team created a pointed chevron on the end of the nails which has been split diagonally in half with Ciate's golden 'Ladylike Luke'. On either side of the gold split, the chevron tips were painted in Dior's brown 'Aztec Chocolate' and a custom blended black striping pen. The rest of the nail was left bare, but covered with Seche Vite top coat.
Make-up wise, Bette Davis Eyes playing on the show's soundtrack makes a black-rimmed eye look exactly what the collection calls for. The end result is a matte, rouged, 20s inspired look edgy enough to accentuate a flawless collection by Holland's most talented designers - Riet and Truus Spijkers.
Text by Lela London
Images by Hannah Wilson

COLLECTION| Manuela Dack S/S13

Vauxhall Fashion Scout veteran, Manuela Dack is always beautiful and chic. Celebrated for combining leather and silk in powerful, but feminine ways, Dack is known for her elegant pieces that are statement but have intricate detailing and elements of hand craft. The Spring Summer '13 collection did not deviate from this style; inspired by tropical greenhouses and the juxtaposition of architectural lines, and organic shapes that provided an impressive contrast in aesthetics.

The presentation was like entering into a dream world; slow moving models, a hypnotic soundtrack and an assemblage of mirrors and plants at the centre of the room all created an ethereal feel. Models dressed entirely in white begin to circle the room in an almost ghost-like fashion, donning beautiful combinations of softs silks and patent leather, accessorised with iridescent clutch bags and holographic jelly shoes. The uniformity of the white is in parts dishevelled by fringed leather or woven strips that create a fabric that looks as if it is unravelling. The subtle inclusion of animal skin touches make reference to the natural elements that Dack is in parts inspired by. The soft, perfectly cut blouses prove Dack's superior cutting skills and her focus on silhouette, which combined with more geometric skirts with sharp edges are a perfect acknowledgment of her original inspirations.

As the music builds and takes on a more electro feel, colour starts to make it's way elusively into the collection. Touches of pale blues and oranges creep into fringing that also starts to introduce movement and fluidity. Sheer blouses begin to add a more daring look to an otherwise so far very innocent style and this develops as billowing silk gowns begin to move seamlessly around the room almost as if they are not touching the ground. Small fringing along the edges creates an oriental feel furthered by the elegantly plaited hair that all of the models have been styled with. The collection from Manuela Dack is stunningly exquisite and graceful and is a testament to herself and to her statement style.

Text by Katie Agar (@katie_agar)
Images by Rebecca Andrews

INTERVIEW| Sara Maino, Senior Fashion Editor of Vogue Italia

Vauxhall Fashion Scout spoke to the Senior Fashion Editor of Vogue Italia, Sara Maino, as she was browsing through the designers featured in our Exhibition Space:

“I never think it’s very nice to say who our favourite designers are here, but Vauxhall Fashion Scout offers an opportunity for research into new talented designers.  I think this is the most important thing.  It’s nice because you can see a really high quality of work mixed with the origins of the designers; sometimes you can really see the influence of their traditions and heritage.  There are a few designers who are really talented, and others who are just beginning and have to still go through some experiences.  I think it’s really interesting because you have a complete visualisation of what is happening with designers who are only just leaving school.  It’s always really amazing to come here and look at what is happening.

Usually I always make contact with all of the designers, because even if someone doesn’t seem so interesting now, they might do next season.  So I try to keep in touch with all of the designers throughout the year.” 

Interviewed by Abigail Gurney-Read
Photographs by Rebecca Andrews

CATWALK| Yifang Wan S/S13

Images by Christopher Dadey

SPONSOR| Exclusive Backstage Interview with The Body Shop Head Make-Up Stylist Lan Nguyen-Grealis

The Body Shop are world renown for their incredible range of beautiful make up, fantastic ethos and impeccable sense ethics, and Vauxhall Fashion Scout are incredibly proud to have them as a sponsor for S/S13. As the official backstage make-up sponsor, The Body Shop are on hand for all the Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows, collaborating with designers to produce a catwalk look to amaze and impress the front row Fashion Elite. 

At Vauxhall Fashion Scout, we pride ourselves on nurturing the future of British Talent, and none more so than our Merit Award winners, which this season was awarded to Heohwan Simulation. Leading The Body Shop backstage team was Head Make-Up Artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis, who we spoke to ahead of the show on exactly what her plans were for this thrilling new season. 

You've been Senior Artist for The Body Shop for a multitude of seasons now and have worked with Vauxhall Fashion Scout for years. What has been your highlight of your time at VFS so far?
My highlights from VFS has been seeing the growth of designers develop their shows. Also seeing the collaboration between The BodyShop and Vauxhall has been a great venture.

Our Merit Award Winner this season is Heohwan Simulation - known for his clean lines and sharp aesthetic. How are you looking to compliment the make-up with his trademark look?
With Merit Award Winner we are planning to reflect the collection in the makeup by creating clean and bold solid colours. Keeping the look simple.

What key Body Shop products will you be using to create this look?
I will be using the new colour crush eyeshadows and gloss with oil free foundation with pressed powders.

We've been preparing for weeks for London Fashion Week- that key trends can you see coming through for S/S13?
The key trends emerging for SS13 are smokey coloured eyes such as blue and purple. Strong eyeliner and the new nude bronze and matte. 

Fashion is always one step ahead- whilst we're looking at S/S13 trends this Fashion Week, what current Body Shop products and trends do you recommend for this Autumn/Winter?
This Autumn/Winter trends such as the strong brow look using the brow kit is essential. Creating strong red lips by using the lip pencil such as Rosy Red to line and fill in lips. Also skin was fresh and dewey so using the Vitamin E spray mist and Radiant highlighter. The lip and cheek tint is important for cheeks and lip stain which created the natural flush and effortless lips.

For more about The Body Shop, and their ideas, products and styles for S/S13, head to The Body Shop website, here! Stay tuned for more exclusive imagery from behind the scenes with Vauxhall Fashion Scout and The Body Shop.


A sophisticated progression from her previous collection, Central Saint Martin’s Graduate Yifang Wang continues a theme of oversized angled block belts and a monochrome colour palette.  Coming from the theme of optical illusion, Yifang has built a signature approach to her design by taking the minimal and expanding the idea of less being more. Her first show during London Fashion Week, the designer’s debut onto the catwalk here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout today drew the attention of an eager crowd as the lights went down.

The girls walked strong and warrior-esque in kimono style shapes calling on themes of martial arts and interlocking layers of fabric. Defined lines work together with black on black that bring out the delicate balance of proportions that Yifang creates in her pieces.  Loose tailoring is paired with geometric shaped separates that give a sense of ambiguity and mystery; it’s all about the fluidity of fabric in this collection where multiple layers seem as one.  A sense of simplicity and originality are the starting points for this collection as the young designer explores architectural structures with a focus on cut and fabric. Long plays with short, soft with hard and the hidden becomes the revealed in subtle slits and deep cuts that show a balance in her design.

Clever in her use of shape, Yifang Wan introduces just a couple of white pieces throughout the collection, where the black pieces serve as the backdrop for the shapes that the whites create. Like negative space, the collection brings out the bigger details showing intricacy in the simplicity. Tied together with angled block resin belts the pieces come together concisely and definitively. Long coats, loose fitted shorts and flowing layers of fabrics created a collection that brought Yifang Wan’s design aesthetic to the forefront in her debut Vauxhall Fashion Scout show.

Text by Vanessa Omoregie  (@wewearblack)
Images by Lauren Marsh

INTERVIEW| Rebekah Roy on styling VFS Ones to Watch

Coming off an amazing Ones To Watch SS13 presentation featuring designs from Charlotte Simpson, Hana Cha, Hellen Van Rees and Ming Pin Tien, VFS caught up with Rebekah Roy after the show to talk about putting together the looks and how it was working with the young designers. Rebekah commented on her love for Vauxhall Fashion Scout and its support for emerging designers as well as the different looks she enjoyed the most.
I take each designer differently and try to find a balance with hair and make-up. I adore the designers. I like watching the designers grow. Ones to Watch has become such an important and significant show. They are all so different, so unique, so special.
[Graduate designs] have to be creative but wearable at the same time. Some designers say the most flattering thing is when you see a stranger wearing your pieces.
She ended the interview praising Vauxhall Fashion Scout saying “I’ll do anything for Vauxhall Fashion Scout. It offers support and mentoring”
Interview by Jennie Watson & Vanessa O (@wewearblack)

BACKSTAGE| Yifang Wan S/S13

Winner of the L'oréal Profressionnel Young Designer of the Year award, Yifang Wan is preparing for her final run through backstage. Having graduated in 2012 completing her MA at Central Saint Martins, Yifang looks likely to follow in her previous classmates momentous fashion footsteps; the atmosphere was bustling.

Toni & Guy styled the models with straight, no-fuss hair with slightest effect giving the models an effortless look. The Body Shop make-up artists worked to achieve a muted look, with statement brows, soft smoked lower-lashes, and a heavily contoured cheekbones. During the application, models appeared relaxed, reading and passing the time in an otherwise fast paced environment. Yifang was calm, looking forward to the show with excitement overcoming anxiety; we spoke to her ahead of her Spring/ Summer showcase, and here's what she had to say:

What inspired your collection?
It’s a development from my final graduate collection which was inspired by martial arts.

How long did it take to make?
I’d say two hours on each garment to make and 2 months to prepare, I like it to be quick.

What’s next?
Nothing planned as yet, waiting for something to arrive.

An all black collection for Yifang, cementing her minimalist signature style, with attention to detail on the cuts. The aura surrounding the room was eclectic, the show was in full swing with most models prepped and ready. Just last minute fittings to take place for the final run through. Sophia Limo, one of the models participating commented on the anticipation before the show.

Are you looking forward to the show?
Yeah, really excitied, I have another show after this.

What do you think of the collection?
Stunning, simple but effective.

Text by Lora O'Callaghan
Images by Asia Werbel