NEWS| Leutton Postle featured on Susie Bubble's BoF column

The first Bubble and Speak column by renowned fashion blogger Susie Bubble on Business of Fashion (BoF) features former Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner Leutton Postle. 

The column is a space where Susie Lau focusses on emerging design talent and the Central St Martins graduate Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle - known in the fashion world as Leutton Postle - take the floor in her debut column. 

The blog post develops an insight into Susie's feelings as she saw Jenny's graduate collection - before she had teamed with Sam -,  "she was someone who could come into a fashion house and, for want of a better word, spice up textures by doing knitwear and textiles research", the fact that the design duo's collections are being showcased at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, "the duo have been showing their collections off-schedule, as part of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout initative, which goes to show that the British Fashion Council’s NewGen scheme doesn’t necessarily reflect the full breadth of talent that is currently active in London" and their most recent "most polished yet" collection, S/S13

A refreshing look into the talents of Leutton Postle, the post is accompanied by photographs of the said S/S13 show and Susie wearing their designs.

By Editor Cass Gowing

Image, screenshot from BoF and S/S13 collection by Rebecca Andrews

EXHIBITION| One's to Watch Charlotte Simpson S/S13

Featured in prestigious publications Elle, Vogue and i-D, Charlotte Simpson, winner of the Zandra Rhodes Textile Award, seduced the Ones To Watch audience as her understated designs graced the SS 13 catwalk. Vauxhall Fashion Scout spoke with the British designer after the show to gain an insight into her inspirations and developments.

Your current collection shares the same inspiration as your ‘Biological Dimensions’ show, what made you continue in this direction?

I still get a lot of inspiration from the same imagery, there’s a lot of interesting microscopy photography out there so there was still a lot for me to explore, and there still is.

Will we see this inspiration transpiring into future collections then?

Probably a development of, but in a different direction.

What initially attracted you to researching biological images?

It was research when I was at university into a specific subject – the imagery really caught my attention.

Can you talk us through the beautiful colour palette you have chosen to work with?

Yes! The colour palettes are based on scientific imagery as well so there’s a lot of … well.. they take the photos in black and white and then add the colours afterwards so it’s normally quite vivid. So that’s why the pastels and quite bright citrus come in.

How do you feel you have developed as a designer since studying at LCF?

My last collection, my MA collection, was specifically done for show purposes so it wasn’t really that feasible. Now I’ve had the chance to do a collection I’m really gearing towards sales.

How have people reacted to your collection?

There’s been really good feedback - a lot of people come to the VFS shows. It’s been really positive so far, everyone seems to have really like it – which is great!

How do you feel about being a Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones To Watch designer?

It’s been really great; I’ve really enjoyed it. It’s been wonderful to have the show and to gain that experience and to get the exposure. I was really pleased to find out I was a Ones To Watch designer, it was really great to get the chance to show.

What can we expect to see from you next?

Hopefully another collection! A development on but with a similar aesthetic. But it won’t be the same thing!

Freya Hill (@Freyahilltalkin)
Images by Rebecca Andrews

INTERVIEW| Myrza de Muynck

Myrza de Muynck is known for collections that have fascinating starting points and an intelligent approach to fashion design. She does something really different to other designers, approaching the presentation of her collection in a unique way with juxtaposed musical beats and models gracefully floating, almost dancing, in and out of the room. VFS caught up with Myrza after the show to find out a little more about the collection and the show.

VFS: Hi Myrza, we saw the show and loved it! What was the starting point of the collection?

Myrza: It was a continuation of what i've been doing before so I saw a book about Holland mania and I thought it was interesting to have that 'mania' about something. In the 1920's it was Egyptomania so there is some Egyptian things in there with the embroideries because in the twenties a lot of the references were Egyptian so I put that in there. That was combined with sort of casuals and sportswear influences.

VFS: There was a really interesting juxtaposition with the music, where did that come from?

Myrza: I wanted it to slow down and be a bit awkward, less fast and sort of combining old with something new, being sort of nostalgic but in a new way.

VFS: What fabrics were you using for the collection?

Myrza: I used a lot of linen, and cotton, towelling and tulle. Summery fabrics basically.

VFS: So how have you found Vauxhall Fashion Scout as a whole?

Myrza: It's really really great. They support you and they've been wonderful. And the venue is beautiful! It's been amazing.

Interview by Katie Agar

Image by Rebecca Andrews

COLLECTION| Myrza de Muynck S/S13

Former Ones to Watch designer Myrza Muynck was back for the second time here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout today to showcase her new Spring Summer '13 collection. The designer, who is known to like mixing inspirations, styles and combinations of fabrics, gave a really unique presentation in the upstairs vestibule. As the slow, elegant music began, one of the models walked out into the space in a graceful walk and began to beat drums in a slow rhythmic beat over the top of the music creating a really interesting contrast. The remainder of the models floated into the room and began a series of static poses, reflective of the music.

The collection featured muted hues of pale pink, white and grey with injections of lime green, mint green and yellow and an outfit of black embellished velvet that gave the collection an evening look. The overall tone was sportswear inspired, but in fabrics of linen and cotton that were extremely wearable. The silhouettes were relatively loose fitting and comprised mostly of matching separates but also an interpretation of the 80's romper. Knee length styles had a childish element to them, furthered by the cute bow embellishments and coloured sneakers.

The details made the collection; the beading was either in a linear grid patterns or circular art deco style designs that gave the collection a 20's glamour feel. Myrza is known to favour combining different decades in her work, mixing decorative features of the early 20^th century with contemporary styles and shapes. She is known for putting a lot of effort into small details and it is very effective, the panelling was intricate and some of the details were adorable, a bow on the back of the trousers that was almost tail-like for example. Myrza, who was born in the Netherlands, is known to have said that “dutch people like to look plain but at the same time they are relatively wealthy”, and this contrast in her heritage is sure to be what inspires the juxtaposition in styles in her designs.

Text by Katie Agar (@katie_agar)

Images by Rebecca Andrews

BACKSTAGE| Leutton Postle S/S13

The hairstyles were fun and playful for Leutton Postle this season; VFS spoke to Head Hairstylist Indira Schauwecker about the inspirations for the look ahead of Spring/ Summer. 

“[We are working with] a very loose ponytail, kind of working with a dry texture internally but with a very shiny ponytail and then we are going to work with giving the style a little more comic character in the front and having this drawn wave. It needs to be quite modern and not dated at all.” 

We also spoke to Head Make-up artist LAN Nguyen about the look The Body Shop are creating for this show - “The make up was quite fresh; it was all about a textured lip, the pop brow. For the lips we've used the Body Shop 'Rosy Red', alongside with the lipstick number 59 which is a pop pink. We've used the pink eyeshadow 'Berry Cherry' and to make it pop we've used 'Something Blue'.”

Famed for their celebration of textural fabrics, an abundance of colour, and innovative textiles techniques, Leutton Postle are always bringing something fresh and new that is untouched by restraints of trends but is an expressions of both of their artistic natures. They always pay such attention to detail and craft creating stunning knits that are bold and forward-thinking. VFS chatted to Sam and Jenny backstage who told us that for SS13 “The inspirations were traditional textiles techniques, patch working, collage and beading .... We've concentrated a lot on finish this season, we made our fabrics on different machines so we are still doing all of the hand-finishing but we are using more sophisticated fabrics and polishing the shape and finish, retaining that craft element that we have.” From the look of things backstage, the collection is just full of playfulness and colour but it seems clear that Leutton Postle are constantly developing their aesthetic into something refreshing.

Text by Katie Agar (@katie_agar)

Images by Lauren Marsh

COLLECTION| Pam Hogg S/S13

After much anticipation following her growing mainstream recognition, Pam Hogg’s collection for Spring/Summer ’13 at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was greeted with sea of excited curiousity.  With the menacing title, ‘Save Our Souls’, intrigue was acute as the lights dimmed and the show commenced. 

Writhing and undulating down the catwalk, the first model made a dramatic entrance; scantily wrapped in bandage-like material, and brandishing two small flash lights.  The meaning behind the collection’s title began to present itself to the fascinated audience; the lights, being reminiscent of distress signals, and the combination of the bandages and movement that so accurately represented the painful fragility of a ‘Soul’ in distress.  

At this point, Alice Dellal entered the catwalk, wearing a completely backless, white apron-dress; composed with an austere sheer fabric.   Consequent models sported outfits of a similar clinical theme; each one demonstrating the effectiveness of statement zips and safety pins in contributing decor to an outfit, rather than being purely functional.  Furthermore, the inclusion of these elements referenced Hogg’s signature punk style within the collection. 

Bold colours and heavier lycra-textures were slowly integrated, in shapes and geometric designs reminiscent of her Autumn/Winter ’12 Collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.  The sharply defined colours were offset with fluid capes, which caught the light as they moved and presented the models as other-worldly; an army of extra-terrestrials.  Coinciding with this transition in theme, Dellal appeared again, with an all-in-one aviator suit; created by using a metallic PVC, which had then been accesorised with blue zips.       

The full progression of the collection appeared to be complete, when models clad in pale-pink ostentatious ruffles and dresses saturated with sequins, began pacing the catwalk; almost as if some relief had been given to the ‘Soul’ who required ‘Saving’ at the outset of the show.  However, the final resolve came when Alice Dellal, in the final look, stepped onto the catwalk for the last time.  A stark contrast to the beginning pieces, her ensemble featured the black cage of a skirt, complete with exposed ribbing and sheer fabric adornments.  A similar cage-like headpiece fanned-out above her; completing the look.  As she danced and sashayed her way down the catwalk, a full circle seemed to have been completed.  

The collection once again demonstrated Hogg’s unique proficiency as a designer, but also as a poet; the progression of the catwalk, telling a story that kept onlookers captivated throughout.

Text by Abigail Gurney-Read (@AbbyGurneyRead)

Images by Kevin Chesnais and Asia Werbel

COLLECTION| Kingston University

The Freemasons Hall grand vestibule played host to the fourth Kingston MA degree show  here with VFS. The home of new talent is proud to welcome back the university, as their latest class of students graduate into the industry alongside seasoned designers at London Fashion Week in front of the world media.

The presentation of collections consisted of an exhibition of garments, fashion products and films, as well as a salon debut. Laura Buechners static project sponsored by Givaudan/Sense, explored our sense of smell and stimulus. Shapes had been sensually constructed to create a conceptually sculptured dress. A collaboration with InCrops lent to a innovatively unique project; scientific experiments concluded as rice crystal forged heels, created by Julia Skergeth.

Suspense was high as the runway was invaded by models donning collections from the 12 of the elite designers. Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse made her bid for title as the next Iris Van Herpen with her intricately laser cut wooden sculpture accessories. Post modernism & traditions from Holland were updated with futuristic techniques; a metamodern take on reality in “Luctor et Emergo”, translation; “I struggle and rise”.

Gin Lee took quintessential menswear tailoring and flipped it on its head with knitted creatures from another dimension. Exaggerated outwear, extended arms in a variety of brushed wools and a sugary sweet palette. Collars crept out from beneath the considered monstrosities in her humorous take on tradition; Teletubbies and all.

Head boy of a boarding school goes girl was the first thought that sprung to mind when Richard Thornn's collection hit the catwalk. Old man dressing gowns, a dull grey palette, pinstripes and piped edges, cropped blazers and drop crotch shorts made up the majority of looks, in a collection inspired by memories of being removed from his home as a child.

The new 90s grunge print, audaciously exposing slashes, the anti-camouflage; if the Kingston MA graduates have any say on the evolution of fashion we are looking towards a bright young future.

Text by Madeleine Ayers (@MadeleineAyers)

Images by Rebecca Andrews

BACKSTAGE| Kingston University

With Kingston university scheduled to showcase their most talented in fashion at 19:00, their backstage was brimming with Toni & Guy hair and Body Shop make up teams, models and rails of garments. With 11 different designers sending their creations down the runway, nine womenswear and two menswear, as well as a unique backdrop, it's set to be a presentation full of creativity.

Elinor Renferw, Academic Director of Fashion at Kingston university explained how “it'll be a very diverse show. We've got knit, we've got print, and we've got one that's sponsored by Pantone. It really shows each graduate's strengths,” she said. “We've got a lot of bravery in the show, which makes me nervous!”

With what sounds a looks like a mix of inspirations and approaches to fashion coming from the Kingston designers, be sure to check back to the blog for our full coverage of the show.

Text by Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Images by Lauren Marsh

CATWALK| DAS Collection

Images by Christopher Dadey

COLLECTION| DAS Collection S/S13

It was to great applause that Alek Wek walked out to in opening the show of the DAS Collection. Wearing an outfit of pure gold, it set the scene for the rest of the pieces to follow. Comprised of flowing silks and luxurious fabrics, the elegance of the Middle East fused with Indian influence in their ready-to-wear S/S13 collection.

With a colourful, rich palette making its way down the catwalk, fabrics billowed behind the models and sashed belts made for feminine silhouettes. Garments featured embroidered Arabic calligraphy in a collection that took inspiration from high society Dubai and Mumbai. The hair and make-up was well in keeping with the aesthetic they had set. Elaborate gold jewellery hung from ears and covered the models hands whilst the hair styling re-enforced that Middle Eastern style.

Founded in 2008, the DAS Collection label is run by sisters Reem and Hind Beljafla. Their aim is to dress women in accordance to the traditions of their Islam faith at the same time as being fashion-forward in their style. With beautiful tailoring empowering the confidence of women, yet retaining the conservativeness within the design, they well and truly kept within that aim. With a walk out from the two sisters after the last piece, accompanied by Wek, the show started, continued and concluded, on a high.

Text by Josh Walker, (@josh_walker_)

Images by Rebecca Andrews

INTERVIEW| President of the Shenzhen Garment Association

Since being established in 1988, the Shenzhen Garment Industry Association has been the organisation responsible for the promotion, and consequent rise in profile, of young designers in both the Shenzhen and Global fashion industries; operating events such as the Shenzhen International Apparel Fair, and the Shenzhen International Fashion Week.  Vauxhall Fashion Scout were honoured to have the opportunity to speak with Madam Shen Yong Fang, President of the Shenzhen Garment Association, following the success of the ‘Fashion Shenzhen‘ show.      

Can you tell us a bit about the Shenzhen Garment Industry?

The Shenzhen Fashion Industry is very famous and well known in China’s domestic market; especially in women’s fashion.  

What did you think of this season’s collection?

I think the designs that we bring to London, as well as the two fashion shows that were here today, can represent Chinese culture and what the designers are doing nowadays in Shenzhen.  

This is your fifth time showing in London; what is it that makes you choose to return?

We also have fashion shows in Shenzhen, and we think that London Fashion Week is an excellent chance for us to study and learn something from.  We also want to bring the Chinese culture and Chinese designs to London and the UK.

Both of the designers that were shown here today were so different, yet both reflected elements of Chinese culture.  Do you think it is important for designers to demonstrate their heritage within their designs?

I agree.  It is very important to have some kind of Chinese culture in the design; the Chinese culture is the soul and essence of the design.  I want to bring some kind of Chinese Culture to present to the world.  If it is Chinese, it belongs to the world.  

Finally, why do you think it is so important to continue supporting these young designers?  

I think the future belongs to the young fashion designers.  If we help the young designers to develop and showcase their work, fashion can have a very bright future.

Text by Abigail Gurney-Read (@AbbyGurneyRead)

Image by Kevin Chesnais

BACKSTAGE| Fashion Shenzhen S/S13

The Toni & Guy and Body Shop teams were busy with hair and make-up in the preparation for the Fashion Shenzhen show.

“There's two designers so two different looks.” head of make-up Lan Aguyen-Grealis said. “The first is very Spring/ Summer, very fresh. It's golden, with a bit of neon orange and very natural lips. The second is more evening and a bit more harder edged and glamorous so we've gone for a smoky under-eye. It's quite cool and British.”

Head of Hair Tim Furssedonn described the styling as 'East meets West'. “It's simple,” he described. “The hair's going to down for one part and up for the second so the styles have to move easily from one to the other.”

The S/S13 collection of Fashion Shenzhen will be walking the catwalk at 15:00 so be sure to check back to see the collection in its entirety.

Text by Josh Walker (josh_walker_)

Images by Ryan Bater

ILLUSTRATION| Ones-to-Watch S\S13

Top: Hana Cha, Bottom: Charlotte Simpson

Illustrations by Bella Macleod