Saturday, 18 September 2010

Eudon Choi Goody Bag

As a designer with a clear sense of attention to detail it was no surprise that Fashion Scout Merit Award winner Eudon Choi collaborated with Vauxhall to design a goodbag as a finishing touch to his catwalk event. Filled with plenty of goodys from our sponsors Bottlegreen, Tony & Guy, Caudalie and of course Vauxhall the graphic monochrome canvas totes were a hit with the audience as they strolled out of the show looking more than satisfied! Check the Fashion Scout blog tomorrow for illustrations, images and an enthusiastic review of Eudon's show...

Lara Angol

Fashion Shenzhen Catwalk Review

 Haiping Xie

 Haiping Xie

Haiping Xie

 Ground Show
 Ground Show
Ground Show

Joining the eager audience in Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Main Hall, I was adamant the show was going to be a wonder of culture clash and diversity. Whilst Haiping Xie presents elaborate, luxurious pieces, Ground Show aims to portray their respect for nature and love of life, with “romantic yet functional” designs.
The lights dimmed and a tribal drum beat startled me into concentration, as the first look graced the catwalk. With shoulder grazing gold earrings, Chinese Opera make-up and shimmering bangles the models were seen in breathtaking, glamorous gowns with a traditional twist. A native colour scheme was used ranging from black, gold, red and yellow. I was greeted with ‘New Woman’ silhouettes, mini dresses with long trains, midi length creations and dramatic halter neck gowns. I was impressed. There was something for everyone. The pieces included traditional Chinese dragon prints, sheer panelling, lace and even rope seams, all combined to create an exciting, modern but culturally traditional, appeal. Despite all this beauty, my focus was directed at the fabulous shoes - yellow or blue heels with black appliqué detail! The audience cooled down with Oriental Fans from their goody bags, as Xie himself took a well earned bow.
I watched the video playing above the runway in a sort of trance. The ‘South Seaside of China’ transported me directly into a different world, brimming with ethnic energy and presence.
Ground Show showcased a startlingly different collection, unexpected but positively received. A sea of neon brights, floral wellingtons, ruched jeans and striped dresses flowed by as the audience dreamt of strolling in the countryside. Dresses were gathered below the knee and layered over long sleeve tops, and harem style shapes also featured. The statement piece that particularly caught my eye was a woollen hat, with plaited tassels and pom poms, teamed with a jumper dress.
The two marvellous collections reinforced Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s enthusiasm in presenting Chinese designers to the international audience of London Fashion Week. 

Words by Tess Stam
Images by Nicole Trundle

Eudon Choi Pre-Show Interview With Stylist Chloe Kerman

This season Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award winner Eudon Choi is joining forces with Tank Magazine's Fashion Editor Chloe Kerman as she lends her creative eye and opinion in styling his Spring / Summer '11 collection. As a fan of Chloe's work I was thrilled when I managed to peek in on the show rehearsal and chat with the influential stylist about the collection...

What are your thoughts on the Fashion Scout Merit Award initiative for young designers?
I think it's great and gives new designers the opportunity to show their collections with an added element of support behind them.

How are you accessorizing this collection?
In terms of accessories we are using shoes by Camilla Skovgaard and some metallic chunky chain jewelery for detail, just little touches, tints here and there. The theme for Eudon's collection is work-wear inspired, so the hair particularly we went about doing in a kind of chignon that had maybe been slept in, like women that worked war time factories. They'd sort of put it up in the morning before work and go to bed in it, around the hairline we tried to emulate the greasy roots of a factory girl. The make up has a lot of highlighting really bringing out the cheekbones and the look is defined with alot of contouring around the eyes.

Explain the styling process, has it be a collaborative effort right from the start of the drawing board?
With Eudon it's been very much that he's designed the collection and I've come in right at the end and said what I think and optioned what looks work well together. It's been a successful collaboration in that sense.

What really stands out about Eudon's collection?
I think they are absolutely beautifully designed, perfectly made and incredibly wearable. I would want most of it in my wardrobe and I know many women would too. The colour palette is also absolutely beautiful.

Are there any key trends to look out for within the collection?
There is a bit of utilitarian and military going in there and a bit of 70's too, that is something I think is going to be a big trend for this season particularly in terms of trousers.

I have no doubt that Eudon's collection will win sterling reviews as he shows with Fashion Scout for a second season.

Words by Lara Angol

Fashion Scout Media Centre Reception

Fashion Scout’s media centre was buzzing this afternoon as various sponsors, bloggers and journalists met for a chat. Decked out in all white, with floral table decorations, lollipops and half drank glasses of white wine scattered about, it was inspiring to see like-minded people gather to discuss their prime interest – fashion. Sony VAIO computers filled the room and Bottlegreen was gulped down, proving that our sponsors are just everywhere! Guests excitedly perused the lookbooks and press sheets from Fashion Scout designers as they were brought sushi and salmon snacks. Among the crowd were Jessica Bumpus from UK, fashion designer Francesca Marotta and blogger Adrian Morales. 

Words by Tess Stam 
Images by Nicole Trundle

One Day Designer Exhibition : Yorkshire Pearl

Robert Malcolm Clayton a.k.a BBert is the creator of bespoke jewellery brand Yorkshire Pearl. The fledgling brand, which has only been around for 6 months, is already gathering a legion of fashion conscious accessories lovers in London and his striking bracelets have been spotted all over VFS. I grabbed a quick chat with him during his presentation to ask him a few questions.

How did you get into jewellery design?
Almost by mistake actually, I started up the brand only 6 months ago. Accessories are  a part of what I do as I’m also a fashion designer, but Yorkshire Pearl first started when I was making pieces for people I know.

How do you source all of the material to make a Yorkshire Pearl bracelet like the ones you are showing today?
I’m a real collector, and spend a lot of time wandering around vintage fairs, antique shops, auctions and gathering nik naks from markets. Over the years I’ve found some really good places to source unusual things to make the pieces really stand out. Almost all of the bits you see here have been recycled or repurposed.

What’s the creative process behind making sculptural bracelets like the pieces you are showing today?
Well I make everything myself, to start with. I’m way too much of a perfectionist to let anyone else make my pieces! I have tried but I like to have control of the way they out, depending on the items I’ve sourced.

Do you work from drawings, or something more conceptual depending on what you have found?
Yeah I group things together by sight, working with a selection of different bits until I’m happy. Then I hand sew everything myself.

Do you have a favourite piece?
That’s a hard one. I’ve given one of my favourites away today, so I cant show you it. Otherwise, I really love this bracelet (see Vic’s illustration). It’s a mixture of freshwater pearls, hand-painted enamel and antique beads.

Words and photography by Alex Fynn O'neil 
Illustrations by KELLYANNA and Vic Riches

Fashion Shenzhen Exhibition Review

As I entered the Shenzhen exhibition I found myself walking into a refreshingly calm and elegant scene. Neatly merchandised stands exhibited collections from an array of Shenzhen based designers. Splashes of crisp reds and greens were dotted around the room between rails of muted stone hues and earthy prints. A favorite was ‘Awkening’ a collection by fashion production company HuanJue Garment Co. who’ve centred their label around sustainability in both production and design. Dresses that appeard to be silk and leather were indistinguishable from the real thing yet made by alternative processes. The collection featured litteral prints, Ice caps, water and images of the north pole making a social comment on the effect of fashion on global warming. Fashion label Elassay also presented a tactile and wearable collection, billowy feminine blouses and a woven silk gold tunic that looked like shredded gold stood out in particular. On the whole the exhibition, with it’s relaxed boutique atmosphere, displayed a highly wearable selection of ultra chic separates that would undoubtedly appeal to the masses.

Words by Lara Angol 
Images by Nicole Trundle

Lako Bukia Catwalk Review

“The collection echoes the architectural buildings from my home country, Georgia.” Lako Bukia told me backstage shortly after her debut London Fashion Week show had ended. “I miss it so much when I am here in the UK and so I wanted to bring a taste of Georgia to London.” Combining sharp, structured, tailored shapes such as accentuated shoulders on jackets and tops with gentle draping in light flowing silks, Lako has created a perfect summer collection: “One of my aims was to make people over here in the UK to realise that although my country has had problems and have been faced with war, it is actually extremely beautiful, and so I wanted to make the collection’s colours and shapes as beautiful as possible.” A strong palette of deep reds and soft blue and pink hues were splashed onto tapered peg-leg trousers, full-length swooping skirts and pale sheer silk tops.

In our brief conversation earlier today, Lako expressed her thoughts on her London Fashion Week debut: “I am really happy with the reception the show received today,” she said. “I was surprisingly calm before and after, but I think that’s because the whole team at Vauxhall Fashion Scout is so supportive - they genuinely care about their designers.”

So what’s next for the Lako Bukia label? “I will also be presenting my SS 11 collection with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in the Paris show room this season, which I am really excited about! I also hope to show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout again for the AW 11 showcase.” So readers watch this space… this is certainly not the last you will hear of Lako Bukia!

Illustrations: KELLYANNA
Words: Sarah Barlow
Photography: Alex Fynn O'Neil

Backstage Interview : Stylist Rebekah Roy

After the Lako Bukia show this afternoon, I managed to catch a quick word with Rebekah Roy, the stylist behind the label's debut London Fashion Week collection...

What advice would you give to aspiring stylists?

Just keep doing it. It’s a lot harder than people think so you need to get yourself out there... But it’s important to remember that it’s not about you, it’s about the designer and the clothes.

Tell me a bit about the process of styling a collection?

It’s all the designer’s vision so you work very closely with the designer when organising the order, discussing accessory choices and deciding on hair and make up looks: it really is a complete team effort between every body. For the Lako Bukia show, I spoke to Lako almost every day online, from the beginning to the end of the whole design  process, to keep up to date on everything.

You are styling quite a few Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows this season, what are your thoughts on the support Vauxhall Fashion scout provide to new emerging designers?

I truly believe Vauxhall Fashion Scout is so important to the fashion industry as it has helped launch so many careers of new young designers showing at London Fashion Week... It’s one of the reasons why I love London so much!

Words: Sarah Barlow
Photography: Natalia Ilina
Illustration: KELLYANNA

BodyAmr Catwalk Review

Celebrity favourite BodyAmr presented a storm of a show today with Vauxhall Fashion Scout. As expected, the catwalk hall was brimming with dedicated fashion lovers and stars, such as Lily Allen and ex-sugababe Keisha Buchanan shoving goody bags out of the way to take their front row seats. Daisy Lowe opened the show, described by fan, jewellery designer Amber Atherton, as “the highlight of London Fashion Week”! Daisy sashayed down the runway to french club music in a stunning white draped maxi, clasped with a gold buckle at the back. With this statement piece, the audience knew they were in for a sleek and modern treat. What followed was a beautiful display of experimental shapes and playful designs. ‘Contrast’ was the word of the day, with striking Grecian-style dresses paired with sexy studded boots or tight tunics over flowing skirts. Designer Amr Ali played with graphic print, block colour and sequins, half concealing these bold statements under flowing, transparent fabrics. The bat wing sleeve featured on many of his creations, along with white flares, figure hugging bandage skirts and crochet pieces. The models themselves rocked smoky eyes and plaited hair. As if Daisy wasn’t enough, model and socialite Amber Rose also appeared on the catwalk in sky high heels and a striking dress. Think tight and printed on top, with a stark white tulip shape skirt, and visible gold zip. To rapturous applause, Amr Ali led all the models out with a proud smile. As hectic as backstage was, I was lucky enough to catch him after the show and he was adamant that he could not have done it without his goddesses! Lily Allen told me that she “really enjoyed the show” and radio presenter Nick Grimshaw added, “it went really well, I loved it!” It was clear that BodyAmr’s fascinating but wearable designs are here to stay season after season. 

Words: Tess Stam
Illustrations: Vic Riches
Photography: Nicole Trundle

ASOS Buyer Gemma Dyas On Ones-To-Watch

After an amazing turn out of buyers, press and influential stylists at yesterday's Ones-To-Watch group show I got chatting to ASOS buyer Gemma Dyas, just as she was being seated for the next catwalk presentation. I found out about her favourites so far and why she thinks our Ones-To-Watch initiative is such an important launching pad for emerging designers...

What did you think of the Ones-To-watch show?
as it was a group show it was really great to see some very varied designers, and especially nice to see menswear in there which is something I don't think you've done before.

What stood out for you the most?
The menswear actually! I really really liked A.Hallucination and I also thought LiLee was really strong. I saw her graduate collection and it was so intricate, although this was really different it was still quite 'her' because of all the detailing on each piece. Overall I thought they were brilliant.

What do you think of the Ones-To-Watch initiative for new designers?
I think its such an important platform and Vauxhall Fashion Scout does an amazing job, giving a different option to London Fashion Week main tent. There is so much untapped talent out there and it's great that there is another showcase apart from NEWGEN. Fashion Scout It's a really reputable showcase now and I think People should feel proud to be a part of it.

What other Fashion Scout shows are you excited to see?
I am really excited for Eudon Choi, and of course Hermione de Paula, she's one of my favorites so I will definitely be there cheering her on this Tuesday!

It thrills us at Fashion Scout to see our budding designers getting the exposure they deserve, as Gemma and a plethora of other buyers both British and international, visited our Exhibition space periodically throughout the day to chat with our exhibiting designers (who will based here all week!). With such a great outcome for the Ones-To-Watch show we can only expect madness at out Merit Award show later this afternoon.

Words Lara Angol
Image by Natalia Ilina

London Fashion Week Day 1 Sneak Peek Backstage

In-house Photographer Natalia Ilina will be documenting the exciting goings on backstage at our shows throughout London Fashion Week. Check out these images from the first day at Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season... One down five to go!

Ones-To-Watch : Georgia Hardinge Catwalk Review

An explosion of digi print, delicate fabric manipulation and structural boned shapes formed La Belle at la Bete, the SS ‘11 collection from Vauxhall Fashion Scout debutant, Georgia Hardinge. Taking inspiration from the works of Jean Cocteau, the French poet, novelist and director of the original ‘Beauty and the Beast’ motion picture, Georgia mixes ideas of French romanticism and early punk, creating the perfect paradox.

The palette consisted of deep purples, forest greens and lemon yellows as well as neutral tones against harsh black. Light flowing silks and sheer mesh fabrics were used to create straight leg trousers and full-length Grecian style gowns, which were left trailing behind the models’ feet. With these delicate fabrics plaited, ruffled and interwoven down the sides of sleeves, placed onto shoe straps and even incorporated into the model's hair, it's Georgia's precise attention to detail that makes this collection exceptional.

Words: Sarah Barlow
Illustration: Vic Riches
Photography: Christopher Dadey