EXHIBITION| Soojin Lee SS15

As part of our Fashion Scout London exhibition, Soojin Lee joins other designers, including our Merit Award winner and Ones to Watch in a showcase of impressive upcoming talent.

Nature and vivid scenic imagery feature throughout Soojin Lee's SS15 collection. Detailed floral print is regimented in grid layouts and repeated patterning with bright tones of fuchsia, orange and green provide the core colour palette. White and navy offer a neutral base for an array of colour and print. 

Stained glass window print is featured in sleek, elegant designs and bouclé fabric along with lurex threading gives the collection a tactile quality whilst scuba mesh fabrics contrast with silk and chiffon to create a diversity of texture throughout.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).

Photographs by Vanessa Omoregie (@vnsssaa)

COLLECTION| Isabel Garcia SS15

The Isabel Garcia SS15 collection hit the Fashion Scout catwalk in style this afternoon as creative director Elliott James Frieze displayed billowing chiffons and intricately detailed silks drawing upon Asian influences throughout the collection. 

Antique, watercolour prints came to life in delicate, airy silhouettes all exuding an elegant, ultra feminine aesthetic, cinched waists juxtaposed against floating palazzo trousers and chiffon skirts to create a striking balance of structure and fluidity. Dragonfly and butterfly print featured heavily through abstract printed chiffons and hand embroidered satin textures. 

Attention to detail is key throughout Frieze's collection with screen printing, foiling, embossed leathers and elaborate bead work taking centre stage. Accessories are oversized, with thick belts, elongated white scarves and giant tasselled bags taking to the catwalk all in sumptuous muted leathers. A series of beaded lace pieces offers a sleeker more defined silhouette to the collection as full skirted pleated dresses provide a stunning contrast. 

Kimono style dresses in muted shades of peach, aqua, lime and yellow effortlessly glide down the catwalk, beautifully embellished and trailing tassels in contrasting tones. A diverse colour palette ranges from muted pastels to lavish jewel tones as Isabel Garcia introduce us to their take on Asian inspired design.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).

Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson

EXHIBITION| Lewis&Leigh at Fashion Scout London

On the final day of Fashion Scout SS15 our Lewis&Leigh pop up is up and running in our exhibition room, showcasing the diverse collections of eight talented, young designers.

Phiney Pet presents 'For Your Amusement' - a collection inspired by the British eccentric love of the funfair, exuding nostalgia and notions of merriment throughout her designs. Pet embraces colour and illustrative print within her work.

Lucilla Gray showcases a collection rich in texture and shape, utilising a minimal colour palette of aqua-marine and white with purple toned highlights, Gray focuses on textile development within her work with raised elements adding a point of difference to her designs. Scuba fabrics form a starchy yet rounded structure to Gray's silhouettes which are occasionally contrasted with sheer more fluid options.

Inspired by aircraft and architecture, Taboka Mazura displays a collection which oozes sleek style and hints at notions of deconstruction. A colour palette of grey, dark khaki, brown and white is highlighted with weathered gold tones. A highlight of Mazura's collection comes in the form of a long line waistcoat designed with a pattern taken from a paper aeroplane.

Lu La Loop presents a plethora of colour in their collection which draws inspiration from Japanese floral prints, taking traditional prints and abstracting them to create a digital aesthetic. Lu La Loop offers up a varied colour palette featured neon tones and metallic detailing.

Christian Cowan Sanluis provides a whimsical take on cult television show 'The Beverley Hillbillies' in his collection. Channelling vibes of Dolly Parton and Shania Twain, Sanluis approaches his collection with a sense of humour, featuring patchwork jackets and hessian trousers all adorned in glitter and full on sequin detailing. Sanluis' western inspired collection bursts with country glitz and glamour.

Founded by Italian designer Ciro Supino and Swedish photographer Sara Lohman, Orphan Bird showcases a collection which beautifully reinterprets traditional tailoring resulting in timelessly elegant pieces. Cream tones add light and shade to an otherwise monochrome colour palette in Orphan Bird's architecturally inspired collection.

Contemporary womenswear designer Frances O'Leary displays a collection exuding femininity. Fluid silhouettes in airy chiffon fabrics are adorned with linear prints in a navy, aqua, pink and purple colour palette as draping details and chiffon overlays perfectly complement the aqueous nature of O'Learys' collection.

Vu by Thanh Cong Vu showcases a collection which draws inspiration from iconic female figures from his cultural background. Displaying a variation of design techniques within his collection, Vu explores draping and fine embroidery within his work, his vibrant colour palette of popping tones is highlighted with black detailing whilst his sleek silhouettes exude an air of elegant femininity.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).
Photographs by Celine Castilon.

BACKSTAGE| Isabel Garcia SS15

In preparation for the Isabel Garcia show this afternoon, The Body Shop team worked diligently to create the perfect look for make-up and nails to pair with the designer’s collection, which was soon to hit the catwalk.

With less than an hour to go, both Sandra Cooke - head make-up artist at the show, and Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff in charge of the Nails, gave us an insight into the products used for the Garcia show and their intended effect.

Head make-up artist Cooke revealed that the look would be pared back and with a focus on healthy glowing skin and a daring, matte lip. "They wanted something quite simple, with a pop of colour like a red lip, which isn't usually done for summer because you normally get oranges." Eyes are kept natural with a hint of brown shadow while eyebrows are blocked out and mascara is cast aside.

Talking about how she copes in an deadline environment with high expectations Cooke takes it in her stride: "I'm just used to it, I also think we strive on stress a bit, it's gets us going!"

Turning to the hand department, models displayed short, square nails with semi-rounded corners

Gonzalez-Longstaff revealed that models are wearing "a special unique custom blended colour combination for Isabel Garcia. She wanted a beautiful pink-gold tone to the nails, and because the Body Shop didn't exactly have this shade we came up with a colour combination using eyeshadow from their Shimmer Cube collection," - a new technique used here at Fashion Scout

Named 'Quiet Rose Gold' the team apply two coats of The Body Shop's 'Almond Kiss', a polish from their forthcoming 24-colour collection that has been described backstage as having "fashion forward colours".

"We then took a little bit of four Shimmer Cube colours: Dark Chocolate, Honeycomb, Marshmallow and Rose and blended them all together. While the nails are almost dry we take a cosmetic sponge and pat them down to start changing the hue."

The team also apply Dark Chocolate to the side of the nail in order to create a contour, as well as Rose in the centre to create a highlight.

Proud of the team's hard work, Gonzalez-Longstaff describes 'Quiet Gold Rose' as "perfect for the collection and for the models".

By Clarissa Waldron (@thisisclarissa)

Photographs by Celine Castillon

COLLECTION| Dioralop SS15

Andreja Bristricic and Maja Merlic are the duo designers behind the creative label Dioralop. Inspired by Polaroid pictures created by international spills of chemicals and exposing them to different temperatures, their signature in every collection is continued with their SS15 collection today at Fashion Scout.

A multitude of colliding textures, prominent cut-outs and separations in the fabric are used throughout the collections. Garments featured Polaroid pictures subjected to extreme temperatures of digital print patterns. Pieces were in monochromatic black and white while prints were mixed with embroidery.

When it came to the silhouette, the pair maintained their aesthetic. Tearing materials and connecting it back together, difference was lost between the sexes and the clean lines of the cuts were retained. Expressive yet simple there are elements of hems, one shoulder pieces, cut outs and wide leg trousers that add to the flavour. Artistically exceptional, with consistent colour tone appreciation throughout, Dioralop took full control with their SS15 collection.

The designer’s aesthetic creates a bold look for uncompromising, aware and individual women. They exploited the difference between genders and androgyny and showed a sense of the new generation of street fashion and subculture. 

By Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).

Photographs by Oliver Savage, (@olisav).

EXHIBITION| Grainne Maher SS15

Irish born milliner, Grainne Maher joins Fashion Scout this season to showcase her SS15 collection. With an array of perspex embellished hats and jewellery in the exhibition hall, we spoke aspirations, inspiration and how she broke into the industry.

How do you feel to be showing at Fashion Scout this year?

It's been absolutely fantastic, I was thrilled when I was selected to show here at the exhibition hall. My collection is called 'Bláthanna', which is the Irish word for flowers. It's predominantly based on floral perspex shapes.

Is there any particular place in which the inspiration stemmed from?

No, my last AW14 collection was based on leaf shapes so it was a natural progression from that. They're laser cut so they've been quite simply shaped originally and now I'm trying to do more complicated 3D perspex work.

I'm interested in the properties of the materials that I'm using, so I'm really focusing on the perspex at the moment. I don't think many other milliners are using laser cutting - heat, wire work and some Swarovski crystals. I reference the floral shapes, but I work quite intuitively and sculpturally when I get the stuff in my hand. The collection begins from there. 

Did you originally study millenary or did you get into it by passion?

I trained with a few independent milliners, but it's basically a labour of love and largely self taught. I actually have a degree in music, I didn't study fashion, but I've been doing this for years now.

What is the future for your brand?

This is my bread and butter. I design jewellery as well so I want to build my name up as a milliner. I want to take the brand further afield and not just Ireland and the UK.

By Joanna McCutcheon, (@Joannamcc_).

Photographs by Ian Davies.

ILLUSTRATION| Bernard Chandran at Fashion Scout London By Sue Dray

Illustrations by Sue Dray

COLLECTION| Le Photographe SS15

Headed by designer Christopher Beales, Le Photographe's SS15 collection takes inspiration from the biblical narrative of the "garden of temptation", showcasing a collection offering texture and detail in abundance. 

Le Photographe took to the Fashion Scout runway in the form of a presentation. Meshed mannequin formations filled the centre of the room as models strutted through displaying a collection in which the traditional collided with the contemporary with truly stunning results. Juxtaposing directional billowing hemlines with intricate floral embroidery, Beales' silhouettes bloom into organic shapes demonstrating an innovative take on classic design, exaggerated shoulder detail and faultless fabric manipulation culminate in an elegant yet modern aesthetic whilst still retaining a feminine edge. 

Illustrating a wealth of texture in the form of shredded jacquards and woven raffia and chiffon, Beales' attention to detail appears effortless, with floral prints trailing through to the inside of garments while tailored jackets and classic shirts are revived with voluminous, draped hemlines. A fresh colour palette of fuchsia pink, lemon, and white tones with an occasional hint of black beautifully complement a collection in which organic shape takes centre stage. Beales offers a contemporary interpretation of classic evening wear throughout.

By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).

Photographs by Hugo Noguiera