Backstage at Ones To Watch Spring Summer 2012

Phoebe English

Malene Oddershede Bach

Shao Yen

Alice Lee 
Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

1720 hours: The run through is still in operation; models in varying stages of prep stalk the runway, which, still in its protective plastic cocoon looks empty and listless, a sheer contrast to the event that is about to take place.

1733 hours: The run through is over, however the 5:30PM show has not yet begun. Backstage; dressers are setting up the first looks, the crowds which earlier on lined the street have relocated to the foyer and are patiently waiting and enthusiastically tweeting their anticipation.

1747 hours: A tweet comes in from @MercedesLFW: 'Stood waiting in a huge hall to be let in to Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones To Watch #LFW'

1750 hours: People start to trickle in and the excitement builds. It seems that the later it gets the greater the buzz. Blow PR and their army of interns are methodically instigating the military operation of seating the endless line of ticket-holders. Styling manager 3D creative VFS mentor extraordinaire Hannah Emslie of Selfridges arrives, much to our excitement, and is seated front row. 'Jamie Woon – Night Air' is keeping the groups of eager onlookers grounded as the room begins to fill up.

1806 hours: The room is almost full. Latecomers file into the back of the room and line the walls, everyone wants to catch a glimpse of something special. The show is almost ready to begin.

1810 hours: The lights go down, the show has begun.

Text: Madeleine Ayers

Nova Chiu - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

Wide-eyed London College Of Fashion recent BA graduate Nova Chiu took her collection right back to her roots. Bright coloured, hand beaded creations were the centrepiece of her 6 (3 in the exhibition) piece Shangri La, ethnic inspired line-up. In an ode to her family she recalls; "my parents and friends back home are always pleased with what I make. They always want to know what i'm working on."

Nova is here today with her soon to be design partner Jeff Archer; the pair met whilst on a design placement in NYC at Anna Sui, '"the best thing we got out of it" they say. A permanent smile is etched onto her face and with good reason; the collection looks incredible. Oversized bright coloured blue and red bead and bell embellished fur coats and a heavily hand crafted top dominate her space, twinned with intricately printed leggings and beaded boater-esque, eye-catching, eye-covering heavy hats to boot.

Chiu is particularly proud of her recent appearances in print including the Evening Standard and The Independent. “People stop me in the street” she says, “they know who I am!” I for one can say a lot more people will know who she is after today.

So what does the future hold for Nova Chiu? Having only just graduated BA, an incredible achievement in its-self, this little dynamo has big dreams; “I want to have my own studio in London” she announces. Like many other young designers, alongside her stint at Anna Sui, Chiu has worked previous placements at Matthew Williamson and Richard Nicoll. We spent the rest of our meeting chatting reminiscently about intern days and grab a Hummingbird cupcake to keep us going.

“Are you going to celebrate tonight?”

“Yes, I think so” she replies, it has been a long journey but she is ecstatic with the final outcome. 

Text: Madeleine Ayers

Umeromaan - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

  

The Umeromaan collection is a hit of instant glamour. The liberal use of delicate chainmail enables the pieces to shimmer and sparkle, but ground them in rock and roll. These are outfits for rockstars – chainmail leggings, and spiked shoulders.

There is a design classicism to the collection, which adds a mature sexiness. The shapes are simple and classic: shifts and collarless jackets. Yet everything was pushed into a dark gothic future with dripping chains and metallic studs. A band of feathers on a shift added an element of colour as they flashed emerald in the light.

Where did you study?

At De Montfort, in Leicestershire.

Tell a little bit about your collection. What inspired it?

The collection is based on the woman, my muse. She is gothic, a bit rock and roll, definitely part of the cool gang. I was trying to capture all these elements and form them into outfits. It is more about the mood, the feeling, than a single physical element.

How did you feel when you found out you’d been chosen for the Graduate Showcase?

I didn’t believe it for a second! I was really pleased as that is the direction I want to move in. I’m definitely going to push it forward. It is so nice that someone has given me a platform to show my work.

What do you hope to get from the Graduate Showcase?

It’s great to just be around the press, getting opinions from the industry. I’m getting lots of advice, making contacts with photographers and stylists in London. I’m getting myself out there. People are really loving my work, so it’s a great boost for my future career.

Text: Natasha Slee

Steven Tai - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

The knitted tanks over buttoned up shirts, the clumpy desert boots and ankle-swinging trousers – this collection is pure nerd. Which is fitting for a designer who admits he is a nerd himself.

Steven Tai of Central St Martins was initially inspired by books (hence the nerd aesthetic). The layers upon layers of paper in books translate into a chunky waist band on one of the chosen outfits. Hundreds of fraying fabric layers form a textural 3D block standing out from the body. This distorts the body, creating a hunchback almost – emulating the look of a stereotypical ‘bookworm’. Steven describes this forced posture as a “celebration of awkwardness.”

The collection creates beauty out of frumpiness. The cream and blue tones are chic and crisp, the lines are considered and the pieces well tailored. Though inspired by ‘frumpy nerds’, this collection certainly does not emulate them.

Steven’s self-confessed nerdiness is most evident in an electronically manipulated shift dress. Hundreds of shiny gold fountain pen nibs are appliqued onto a dress, and then suddenly…they spin. In a steady rhythm, line by line, these unusual embellishments turn. The effect is mesmerizing; the dress appears to shimmer. Pretty glam for a nerd.

Steven expressed his excitement at being part of the graduate showcase: “I just really like the energy here, it’s so young, so exciting and new.”

All chosen graduates are given expert mentoring to guide them in their first tentative career steps, and Steven underlined how important these were for him. “They’ve been teaching us things we never learnt at school, things I feel we should know, like the business side. Even if we don’t use it till further down the line, it’s good to know.”

Text: Natasha Slee

Anna Smit - Graduate Showcase

Illustration by Andy Bumpus 

RCA graduate Anna Smit presented a selection of garments from ‘Illumine’; a collection dominated by soft sculptured shapes, strong silhouettes and precise construction techniques. An digital obmre fade from light to dark (inspired by the camera-less photography of Garry Fabian Miller) seeks only to exacerbate the curved and exaggerated forms that sculpt and manipulate the form of the wearer. “All my shapes are really round. It’s kind of simple. I guess you could say that’s my thing.”

If some pieces seem almost seamless, it’s because they almost are. A moulded midi pencil skirt featured only one seam, shaped by darts and folds, a oversized coat allowed the wearer to place their arms into the pockets. An ongoing fascination in the use of materials led to extensive fabric experimentation, Patent leather competes for attention alongside fine-spun mesh, textured heavyweight fabrics ground the pieces in the everyday. The designer herself explained, “When you get into digital prints, you find that there’s only really a handful of interesting fabrics you can print on. What I wanted to do was make my own fabric, I hand-coated my own grosgrain, in a process that takes almost three days!” Anna’s quest for perfection doesn’t end there. “I’ve bonded a lot of fabrics, layers of neoprene to create the exact finish I wanted.”

The designer has also been partaking in the VFS mentoring programme. “It’s so important to find out things from people who work in the business, I’d definitely recommend any new designers to try it I’ve really enjoyed the whole process and collaboration with VFS”. I for one, am certainly looking forward to seeing Anna put that knowledge into practice in the near future. 

Text: Victoria Loomes 

Parsha Gerayesh - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Magdalene Golembiewska

Illustration by Andy Bumpus

Coffee, late nights and sleeping with the light on. That was the recipe recent Westminster Fashion BA graduate Parsha Gerayesh prescribed me for success, and it obviously worked for him. His heavily structured steam bent wooden creations were a main attraction, bound similarly to oversized embroidery hoops, almost a la Claes Oldenburg except moulded to the body. “They can be worn in more than one way”, says Gerayesh; the Graduate Fashion Week Innovation award winner, who after many a trial and error session settled on beech for its durable properties.

Currently one month into his three month placement at Karen Millen; Parsha is aiming to hone his commercial skills before going it alone. However this is not the first placement he has undertaken;  stints at menswear designer Aitor Throup and Peter Jensen during his studies he said were invaluable to his education. 'Learn to love coffee and sleep with music blaring and the lights on. You will wake up feeling like you never went to sleep but ready for a new day'. I'm still dubious but am willing to give it a try!

Posed the question; “So where do you see yourself in 10 years time”, like many of the other young designers his answer went along the lines of 'running my own label in London', but he also went a step further. 'I want a cross disciplinary design lab...London, Paris...' and after meeting and getting to know Parsha, I can safely predict one day the world. We here at VFS expect big things from this hotbed of enthusiasm. 

Text: Madeleine Ayers 

Camilla Woodman - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

The Kingston University graduate is a surprising entity. Her designs mark her out as a print or womenswear designer, but her chosen discipline is knitwear. She’s surprisingly diminutive, despite the voluminous, swinging shapes of her crafted swing jackets and knitted ponchos. Her printed knits probably shout louder than she does, in fact, she’s a contradiction in terms. Juxtaposing a tonal Seventies palette with fluid maxi lengths and analogue jewellery, Camilla Woodman's show was one of the standouts at Graduate Fashion Week. Catching up with the designer at the Graduate Showcase, she revealed some more about her graduate collection, entitled ‘Lost In Transmission’.

So Camilla, talk me through the inspiration behind your collection.

My collection is based on the mundane lifestyle, how people close themselves off in their living rooms, and become transfixed on their TV. I’ve used a lot of technology based prints and accessories, combined with interior elements. There’s old Welsh wool inspired graphics for the knitwear, all the other garments are based on elements inside the living room.

As a designer, how are you finding your first VFS Fashion week experience?

It’s really exciting; and it’s certainly been an experience. It’s exciting to move on from my graduate collection to being here. As a graduate you do your show, and it’s over so quickly, so it’s so amazing to have the chance for it to be appreciated and seen by the wider fashion industry.

What are you hoping to achieve from the Graduate Showcase?

I’m Going to the RA in a couple of weeks, so I’m hoping to develop myself more there. But the people I meet here, well maybe in the future they’ll be useful contacts!

Text: Victoria Loomes

Patrick Li - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

“Hi, and congratulations Patrick! How are you and how's it all going?”

“It's good, it's a good experience”

“What has your journey to get here been like?”

“A good experience yeah, very focused”

“What do you think you will get out of today?”

“Recognition; hopefully people will get to know more about me”

I am of course talking to one of the exhibitors in the graduate showcase, like many of the others Patrick Li almost seems lost for words, still taking in the experience, and as I suspect, revelling in a sense of relief. It takes me a while to pull him away from the mingling admirers to catch a word with the enigma that is Mr Li. I had seen the collection in advance and was dying to meet the man himself to know where it had all originated from.

The designs of Patrick Li are unmissable, standing tall in the centre of the room, the man himself standing boyishly beside the installation obviously overwhelmed at the reception, but the Brighton University BA, Royal College Of Art MA graduate deserves all the praise he is undoubtedly going to get.

“So what was your inspiration for your MA collection?”

"An image of rocks by photographer Edward Burtynsky" he replies (both of us struggling with the spelling), and you can tell.

The striations mimic the layers of soft fabric he hand cut to create the final shapes. It's a contrast of soft and hard, and the outcome is beautiful. A capsule collection of hand created garments in varying shades of grey, carefully draped layers make up the skirts and fall like a waterfall to create an asymmetric effect on the raw edge hems.

“So where do you see yourself in 10 years time?”

“With my own label in London”

Of course we wish him all the best and can't wait to see him on the catwalk.

Text: Madeleine Ayers 

Victoria Spruce - Graduate Showcase

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

Looking at Victoria Spruce’s sculptural footwear it’s hard to tell where the heel ends and the shoe begins; where the upper becomes the sole. Fluid lines in plastic and leather create continuity, a constant. It is as if the shoe were made of water, flowing into a dramatic curved heel.

The soft blues, creams, and lilacs of the collection add a dreaminess and complement the organic design. The hard shiny plastic and supple leather could have sent the footwear into a dark fetish realm, an issue Victoria was aware of.

"I’m always drawn to subtle colours, and I was conscious of the fact I was using hard plastic – I needed something to tone it down.” Victoria, a Royal College of Art graduate, told me how she was initially inspired by ceramic sculptures she stumbled across on the Internet. As if controlled by fate, she found the sculptures again in a college exhibition, and decided then to allow herself be inspired by them.

The fluid, continuous aesthetic came about in the initial stages of the design process.

“I started playing around with bits of paper on the foot, and I thought why does the heel have to be separated, why doesn’t the whole thing evolve as one?”

The subtle futurism of Victoria’s designs was achieved using 3D printing and graphic prototyping, and she felt it was important to combine her knowledge of traditional footwear design with these modern techniques.

The ethereal collection has garnered Victoria attention with all the right people, and has encouraged her to push it further, to put herself under the spotlight she deserves. “The amount of interest it’s generating at the moment, I’ve got to go with it. I really want to develop these for production.”

Text: Natasha Slee

Live illustration at Eudon Choi

Illustration by Joe Turvey

Helen Turner - Graduate Showcase

Illustration by Andy Bumpus

Illustration by Yiunam Leung

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

 Everest green fur with peach slices is one statement staring back at you as you pace around the graduate showcase. The impact can’t help but draw you nearer, and on closer inspection you are confronted with a wealth of complex techniques that have come together to create this startling effect. In fact its not fur at all, rather layer upon layer of silk fringing, hand dyed and dried to create this animalistic effect. The texture and volume create the luxurious finish that talented designer Helen Turner must have hoped for. Inspired by African masquerade costume and the book Maske by Phyllis Galembo, the RCA graduate’s MA collection heavily echoes these raw influences. “I wanted it to resemble fur and I think it has.” Twisting and platting hair has also been a strong reference for her and aspects of this can be seen in some of her other cable knit pieces weaved together in earth tones and dripping in delicate orange fringing. Talking to Helen you can’t help but notice the reaction this tactile collection is unassuming receiving. Each gushing onlooker feels obliged to touch the garments, each shocked that silk is the guilty fabric responsible for such a textured finish. “Today has been amazing, just to see everyone’s reactions,” she says with a coy smile.

As part of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout mentoring scheme, Helen also spoke about here experiences with VFS. “It’s been really useful, especially around business practicalities. I have done some things like this before but this is much more in depth.” Now she is waiting for advice on her next steps. Hoping to go on and establish her own label, but aware of the amount of work it takes, for now it is something for the near future. What’s next for Helen? Undeniably she has lots in store, but for now she is going to enjoy this weekend. “When I’m ready to do my own label I’m going to throw everything onto it.” 

Text: Samantha Farr

Krystof Strozyna Spring Summer 2012

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

It was 2:00pm, hair and make up was manic, hairspray clouds filling the back room, models being prepped, clothes flying everywhere, and yet somehow the person in the centre was totally cool, collected, and, well ready! I managed to grab hold of him just before the show and ask him how he was feeling, to which he replied simply 'fine', fine calm before the storm, fine not fine, we shall never know but he was ready. Was there anyone he was looking forward to seeing at his show? “Susie Bubble would be amazing...” he said, and 30 minutes later there she was. Front and centre. However she wasn't the only person to grace his collection with their presence, also spotted early on were Sugababe Jade, in super high gold wedge heels, Vivienne Westwood model muse Tolula Adeyemi, Zara Martin and Diana Vickers, the latter two whom when I spoke to after were singing Strozynas praises.

This season Krystof Strozyna drew inspiration from Navy uniforms, the sea and paradise island with a twist on his trademark style. Famed for making women look like godesses with his body-con silk draped masterpieces, this season he added denim to his repertoire; to the great excitement of the onlookers. It was all a very sudden affair, people chatting, runway hopping to find seats and it began, to the beat of 'Unai – A Love Moderne'. Models graced the runway in a palette that ranged from mint green to hot pink, a collaboration of camel, cream and black.

These are the clothes you will always fall back on, the crepe silks; an evening out, the boyfriend blazers; a day at work, the slightly fitted denim jacket; all day every day. Key pieces remain in the safety net of what Strozyna is best known for but this season it was all about dressing for every occasion. The contrast between the hair and make-up; kept clean and simple, didn't deter the eye from the garments.

The sharp cuts of the signature figure hugging skirts and classic mini dresses were complemented with the soft raw edge draped panels which flew in and out of seams, caressing the figure and creating a sense of sensuality. Mixing up the run through was a touch of what felt like a 70s homage; the high waist, skin tight floor scraping bell bottom light wash denim jean and a camel silk shirt with darker tone button stand. With a touch of lilac drape, and a stunning navy double breasted boyfriend blazer to finish, the collection once again felt like a storming success. Calm before the storm? I hope the storm keeps rolling.

I managed to grab a flustered Krystof post-show about plans for the future:

“Well next season hopefully I would like to show again, I don't know yet what I will do exactly in terms of the collection but it should be okay.” As for Krystof and VFS “Yeah I hope so hopefully, it's really amazing to work with [VFS] and the team is amazing, everyone is really helpful here.”


Text: Madeleine Ayers

Diana Vickers Front Row at Krystof Strozyna

Photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

Stopping by to sample the collection in a fleeting visit was super-blogger Susie Bubble.  

I caught up with tv-presenter, model, DJ extraordinaire Zara Martin just before the show just before the lights dimmed. Looking as stunning as ever in a bright orange blazer jacket borrowed from the PR, she popped backstage after to sing her praises. Having been a fan of Krystof's for the past three seasons she couldn't be happier for the designer:

“I've been a fan of Krystof ever since I saw his collection about three seasons ago and I think what's so amazing about him is that he really keeps true to his DNA of his brand but always kind of comes out with a new version of it...”, talking about the addition of denim “...yeah, and I love the fact that he's bringing more kind of trousers and tailored pieces into it because normally it's very dress heavy. I'm really happy for him.” 

Another seasoned admirer, Diana Vickers was also out front row to support the Polish national's Spring Summer 2012 collection, with only the highest praises:“I thought it was lovely, you know, it's Krystof's stamp on it. The colours; I love when he uses lilac and adds structure to all of the dresses...I love all of his collection, it's really beautiful, really elegant and I loved the denim, he's not done that before, and yeah I love a bit of denim!” 

Stopping by to sample the collection in a fleeting visit was super-blogger Susie Bubble, also resplendent in striking orange. Do we detect an emerging trend?

Text: Madeleine Ayers 

Backstage at Krystof Strozyna Spring Summer 2012

Backsatge photography by Lucas Seidenfaden

Backstage photography by Asia Werbel

Girls with larger than life hair and candescent skin looked like extras from a 1960’s sci-fi. The huge hair overwhelmed and defined the girl’s silhouette, making them look like an army of Barbarella Barbie dolls. The head stylist at Toni and Guy explained that he and Krystof had collaborated closely to come up with iconic 60’s hairstyles, inspired by the era as well as Sharon Stone in Casino, that have a minimalist and achingly modern aesthetic. The hairstyles displayed a difference in the range of shape and texture, which was achieved by using Label M Mousse and almost invisible rubber bands stretched over the crown to flatten the hair at the front of the head and give a sleek look. From the restriction of the band, backcombed hair plumed and framed the model’s perfect faces. The hair was then brushed out at the bottom, smoothed over and held with grips underneath to give an elegant finish.

Krystof was very specific about the make-up for his models. He asked the make-up artists at The Body Shop to focus on pale, shimmery skin and they achieved this by using The Body Shop’s radiant highlighter mixed with their extra virgin mineral foundation. The eyebrows were also lightly blocked out and white eyeliner was used beneath the model’s eyes. Together with The Body Shop’s 01 illuminating eyeshadow and moonstone eyeshadow the models look like beautiful, ethereal creatures from another planet.

Altogether, the avant-garde make-up and architecturally sculpted hair complimented the modern precision cut tailoring and minimalist colour and texture blocking of Krystof’s designs.

Text: Amy Lockwood

Backstage at Eudon Choi Spring Summer 2011

Backstage photography by Asia Werbel

Backstage at Eudon Choi, there seemed to radiate an element of calm. There was no mad teasing of tresses, or brushes flying over faces. The look was sleek and minimal and the mood in the air reflected this. 

Make-up artist Adam de Cruz  from the acclaimed Academy of Freelance Makeup created a bare, but groomed look; models faces were dewy and youthful, and seemingly free of make up.

“The collection was inspired by just being on the beach, putting on a pair of sunglasses and doing nothing to your skin,” explained Adam.

The dewy look was achieved by an intensive skin care routine before any make up was applied. Skin was buffed, and vaseline was rubbed into model’s shoulders and lower legs.

Highlighted cheekbones gave the skin a ‘post-spa’ appearance, while curled eyelashes and brows combed upwards emulated the high-grooming of the women who inspired the looks.

Pinar Necata and her team used Toni and Guy mousses and sea-salt spray to give the hair a just-left-the-beach look. However, the styling was kept sleek and chic with the hair pulled into low ponytails. A stark centre parting emulated the sportswear minimalism of the clothing collection, and fringes were smoothed back neatly behind the ears.

As Pinar describes, “this is a very chic woman. She has been sunbathing, she has gone for lunch, and she has just slicked it back, effortlessly. It’s very expensive looking.”

Text: Natasha Slee

Fashion Monitor interviews VFS Director Martyn Roberts

Our friends at Fashion Monitor have popped down to the VFS studio to interview Martyn Roberts, the Director of the fashion force that is Vauxhall Fashion Scout.The FM team focuses on Martyn views on various topics such as the importance of the menswear day during LFW and the importance of bloggers in the fashion industry.
Check out the full interview here

Live fashion illustration at Eudon Choi

 

 Illustration by Andy Bumpus

Exclusive illustration from the Eudon Choi show. Look out for more catwalk illustrations over the next week.

Eudon Choi Spring Summer 2012

Hungry eyes lined the catwalk, as excitement for VFS’s first show got under way this morning. We spotted ELLE’s Accessory Editor Donna Wallace on the front row and behind her, keen viewers edged closer to the runway at every available opportunity. As the lights dimmed, Eudon Choi’s models made their eagerly anticipated entrance.

The first model stepped out in a white minimal tunic dress and deep red sports jacket establishing a sense of the collection. What followed carried with it a refined and modern interpretation of sportswear from the late 60’s and early 70’s. Knee grazing dresses created simple boyish silhouettes with sporadic splashes or colour, in candy pinks, saturated lilacs, and other almost sugar coated shades. However, detail presented itself in a demure manner with clean geometric block or stripes that were at times asymmetrically placed. These colourful flickers were otherwise restrained by a palette that was muted and uncomplicated.

As these classic shapes brushed past us the influences of sportswear where undeniable boxy masculine bomber jackets, sheer tank tops and leather edged gym shorts. Each familiar shape feminised by youthful and elegant touches. The fabrics gave each piece a lux finish and metallic embroidery in gold and pink reinvented references from the decades gone by. The buttery double fused Napa leathers, silk, linen, and resin coated cotton stitched side by side enhanced the beautiful structure of the coats and one-pieces. Effortless, while still rich in texture and substance.

“My key tip for my collection is declutter,” Choi told us backstage, after his gracious wave to the crowd. A little speechless and then giddy at times, he explained the influences behind his collection and the research that had gone in to forming it, “I trawled through old magazines like Vogue and wanted to rewrite late 60’s sportswear with technology”. Referencing Le Corbusier he played with classic sportswear shapes to demonstrate his own take on modernism.  “ I am so grateful to VFS they pioneered my career and gave me the platform to launch myself.” 

Text: Samantha Farr