An Interview With Masha Ma

Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2008, womenswear designer, Masha Ma, has had her graduate collection snapped up by Saville Row’s B Store and grabbed the attention of press world wide, having had her work featured in leading style publications such as Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Pop and French Playboy.

Here at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, we are all super excited to see Masha’s debut show with us this September and as London Fashion Week draws ever closer, all of our designers are busy making final adjustments to their collections. I managed to drag Masha away from her busy schedule for just a few minutes to find out what she has in store for us this season…

Tell me a bit about your latest collection - What has been your inspiration behind it?

A building I came across in the Meat Packing District in NYC initially inspired me. It had all the walls painted white creating this subtle futuristic look. It turned an old industrial building into something quite modern. The collection was strongly influenced by this industrial chic feeling; strong elements such as silver and steel juxtaposed with the intricate elegance found in the draping and finish.

Did that influence the colour palette at all?

Totally: There is a lot of white, ice blue, silver and metallic… It’s all very pastel but sharp at the same time.

For people who aren’t so familiar with your work, how would you describe your signature style?

The label is all about the cut and finishing of a garment: Tailored with a modern arrogance.

You have once stated you have an ever changing silhouette in mind- is this still something you thought about when designing this collection?

I did… the last collection had this glam, cinematic feeling but this season I have moved it forward into a different kind of look. The length has gone very short in comparison to the calf length skirts I had last season. I love to experiment with proportions.

Where would you like to see your brand in the future?

London is a great place to be; there is such amazing support for young, up and coming designers, so I would love to stay here and am hoping to see the Masha Ma label stocked in a lot of London boutiques.

We have also been invited to Paris this season to present our collection at the Louvre during Paris Fashion Week, so I am excited to see how we do there.

You have had quite a lot of success and press attention in China already, is the Chinese Market somewhere you aim for?

The press in China has been amazing. I think I just happen to be Chinese, and they are being very supportive over there. It is definitely a place that we would love to keep appealing to.

And lastly, this is your debut show at London Fashion Week with Vauxhall Fashion Scout are you excited?

Of course! Very excited!

And so are we! And it’s not long to wait now… Masha will be showing her latest collection on Sunday 19^th September at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue during London Fashion Week.

Sarah Barlow

Exhibition Review: ‘Yves Saint Laurent’

After his death in 2008, the Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation and Petit Palais chose to pay tribute to the legendary fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent, by collating over three hundred pieces of his work, creating a thematically structured display.

Sunday marked the last running day of ‘Yves Saint Laurent,’ a wonderfully constructed retrospective, held at Petit Palais, Mussee des Beaux-Arts, Paris. We were lucky enough to visit the exhibition whilst in Paris and were completely blown away by the inspirational beauty that was presented to us: A ballroom, featuring an elaborate swooping staircase was stage to an array of couture evening gowns whilst another whole room was dedicated to colour, displaying different shades and fabric swatches. Although black became a signature style of the fashion house, Saint Laurent was also a fabulous colourist, especially after his travels to Morocco, where he discovered the magic of colour.

As well as the couturiers achievements, the showcase also highlighted a brief collapse in Saint Laurent’s career, which was interesting for an exhibition that’s praise to his success. A collection with references to prostitution in pieces such as red satin corsets and platform shoes caused a stir in the fashion world and received much bad press in the early 70s. The media’s negative reactions were displayed at the exhibition with a wall completely covered with newspaper cuttings and quotes.

Yves Saint Laurent established his label with partner Pierre Bergé at the beginning of the swinging sixties (a revolutionary period for fashion) and continued to grow throughout the subsequent 3 decades. The exhibition illustrated this journey as well as focusing on key pieces and trends from each period, such as the famous pop art collection inspired by his meeting with Andy Warhol in ’66, his creation of the ‘Safari look’ and the female tuxedo; a style which Saint Laurent has become renowned for and something which he continued to develop through out his career.

Sarah Barlow and Kusheda Mensah 

Vivienne Westwood Shoe Exhibition, Selfridges

From August 26th until the 22nd of September Vivienne Westwood hosts an exhibition in Selfridges that catalogues her most ingenious shoe designs from 1973 to present. So, as soon as Saturday rolled around, I made a beeline for the Ultralounge to marvel at the quirky creations. I was enchanted to say the least! There was leather and lace, rubber and fur, buckles, frills, prints and patent, pretty much anything and everything imaginable in a shoe. The exhibition is testament to the fact that not only is Westwood a national treasure but also one of the greatest taste makers of all time. A must see!

Exhibition continues until 22nd of September at the Ultralounge, Selfridges London

Lara Angol

Fashion Film - Carianne Moore & Swarovski

This coming season Fashion Scout designer Carianne Moore will collaborate with renowned jeweler Swarovski to create a glittering fashion film. Carianne was kind enough to send over a press pack with this sneaky preview of the films costume design based on her stunning accessories. 

We absolutely adore the look in the illustration and simply cannot wait to see the shimmering warrior woman dripping with embellishments when the film is released this September! Watch this space.

Lara Angol

Boutique Review: 11 Boundary

11 Boundary is a high-end fashion boutique offering an eclectic mix of women’s clothing, shoes and accessories by top UK and international designer brands. The store was launched earlier this year by Debra Winstanley, who after years of experience in the fashion retail industry realised there was a gap in the market for specialist boutiques; a gap which she was only too happy to fill.

 “I feel that the high street is getting quite boring; everyone offers the same and so there’s such saturation,” explains Debra. “I feel that niche boutiques with a personal choice and a personal service is key. I’ve realised that not everyone wants mass produced garments, instead they want individual items and a good customer service.”

But at 11 Boundary there is a deeper purpose to their first-rate service other than just to generate sales; it’s about building relationships with customers and providing them with genuine assistance: “We can spend two hours in here with just one customer. We get a lot of customers that need help and advice… In here they get that!”

Pieces by Twenty8Twelve, American Vintage, Costume Nationale, L.A.M.B and Malene Birger are just a small selection of what’s offered at the East-end store. Many of these are well-established and popular labels, and some are even the creation of famous faces including Sienna Miller and Gwen Stefani. But what about new emerging designers? “You need your established brands,” reveals Winstanley. “It’s good to have a mix of pieces by new and emerging designers, but although you want to support them, it can be difficult and risky sometimes with new designers as you don’t always know if they are going to deliver or if their production is going to be right.”

Debra gave me an insight into what she looks for in a brand when buying: “The most important thing is to provide the customer with value for money. What we at 11 Boundary put a lot of energy into is finding brands that give good quality, as well as nicely designed garments.” A favourite of hers currently are Danish Brands including Malene Birger, DAY and a new arrival for 11 Boundary this season, Ganni: “They are absolutely amazing…the value of them all is just so good.”

Located in the trendy Shoreditch area of East London at number 11 Boundary Street (hence the name), Debra’s shop sits amongst a hub of style and luxury, with both the newly opened menswear concept store, Hostem and high end fashion boutique, Start, just minutes away from 11 Boundary’s doors.

The interior of the store is just as chic as the spot it is situated in, with plush white fittings and a pair of glamorous beaded chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. Debra searches through the racks and shows me some of her favourite items for Autumn 2010: “This one has already been very popular,” she says whilst holding up a grey knitted poncho by DAY. “We also had a beautiful Twenty8Twelve suede and leather mix jacket which has already sold out!”

11 Boundary now has an online presence in the form of an accompanying fashion blog, releasing news of latest stock and trends, and with an e-commerce addition to their website, www.11boundary.com, arriving in mid September.

Grazia recommend Charlotte Taylor

Whilst flipping through the latest issue of Grazia, we were thrilled to find Ones To Watch Designer Charlotte Taylor's beautifully tailored trousers featured in a back-to-school trend prediction spread.

We absolutely love Charlotte’s olive green and purple trousers! They're ultra chic, fusing a traditional silhouette, a punch of colour and structured detail in all the right places. We can’t wait to see what she’s created for Spring/Summer 2011!

Lara Angol

Young British Designers Teaser Video

We gave you the heads up back in May, and now here's another tasty little morsel to whet your appetite, as brand new shopping site, Young British Designers, have released a brilliant teaser video.  Featuring some of Fashion Scout's hottest designers past and present, in the shape of Merit award winner Eudon Choi, Ones To Watch designer, Charlotte Taylor, Felicity Brown and Viking Wong, the site's set to stock the best of UK talent, and it's all kicking off in September.

The music, the model, the gorgeous, old school, rule Britannia vibe...if the video's anything to go by, this site's got it all. 

Fiona Anderson

Una Burke for NARS Cosmetics Campaign Fall 2010

Earlier this month, NARS Cosmetics launched their new range for Fall 2010… and what do you think we spotted within the latest ad-campaign for the beauty brand… No other than the structural leather bodice from Vauxhall Fashion Scout designer, Una Burke’s RE.TREAT Collection. Modelled by style icon, Daphne Guinness, Una’s carcass-like creation is covered with an assortment of crystals and diamonds whilst complimented by the striking shade of purple that lies on Daphne’s eye lids; an eye-shadow colour which has since been named after her.

During a recent interview, Una told us how excited she was when her work was requested by the cosmetics company for the campaign and that Daphne Guinness “was someone incredible whom I've always wanted to wear my work.”


The campaign was styled by Patti Wilson and shot by photographer, make up artist and founder of NARS Cosmetics, Francois Nars, who has cleverly used mirrors to reflect Una’s piece and Guinness’ image from every angle, creating a kaleidoscopic projection of style and beauty. 

Sarah Barlow

William Tempest for John Lewis

Previous Merit Award winner, William Tempest, has been asked to design a dress for the department store, John Lewis. The collaboration is part of the retailer’s new fashion focus, celebrating both emerging and already established design talent. Other designer’s who have been asked to join the initiative include Milliner, Philip Treacy and couture footwear designer, Terry de Havilland.

John Lewis’ new fashion floor revamp and designer collaborative collections, including Tempest’s dress, will all be revealed during Vogue’s Fashion’s Night Out in a couple of weeks… We can’t wait!


Sarah Barlow

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN SOLO EXHIBITION ‘1994 – 2010’ AT THE ISTANBUL MODERN

As part of the Istanbul 2010 European Capitol of Culture efforts the Istanbul Modern presents a catalogue of work, spanning from 1994 to present, by conceptual designer Hussein Chalayan.

Earlier this month I had the opportunity to visit the exhibition in the stunning cultural goldmine that is Istanbul. I was intrigued to say the least, if only to see what one of the worlds most forward thinking and controversial designers would select to represent himself in this given city.

I was without disappointment as, inevitably, the exhibition boasted a concise and engaging selection of his most interesting works and concepts. Along side mannequins adorned in Chalayan’s creations, huge projections looped a catalogue of his most innovative catwalk shows, the screens so large as they simulated a feeling of sitting front row at the actual event.

As a designer Chalayan epitomizes conceptual fashion, which is clear as his ideas stem from topics such as displacement, immigration and technological advancement. With a career dedicated to binding fashion and thought Chalayan deserves every praise for what is undoubtedly a directional and refreshing exhibition.

The exhibition runs until October 24^th at the Istanbul Modern.

Lara Angol

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Exhibition Designers Announced

In addition to our catwalk and presentation schedule for this season we are pleased to reveal the list of designers taking part in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition. The list of designers exhibiting throughout London Fashion Week are...

  
A.Hallucination
Bolshie
Charlotte Taylor
Edward Finney
Eudon Choi
Florencia Kozuch
Georgia Hardinge
Hermione de Paula
James Hock
Katerina Levina
Katie Rowland
Kirsty Ward
LiLee
Martina Spetlova
Nancy Van Ostren
Rachel Freire
Tramp In Disguise
Una Burke
Yasmin Kianfar
YONG
Yorkshire Pearl
  

London Fashion Week
Fri 17th – Wed 21st Sep 2010
10:00 – 19:00

Prince Regent Hall
Freemasons’ Hall
Great Queen St, Covent Garden WC2

Vauxhall Fashion Scout LFW September 2010 Schedule

Vauxhall Fashion Scout are thrilled to announce our Catwalk and Presentation schedule for London Fashion Week September 2010.  This season’s events will deliver some of the most exciting emerging designers with over 30 shows, exhibitions and presentations stretching throughout the week. With both new additions to our schedule as well as strong returning talent this season is set to be more innovative and inspiring than ever!

(Click to enlarge) 

An Interview with Una Burke…

Fashion and Art do not have to be placed into two separate categories as Una Burke has proved. As a graduate from the Fashion Artefact MA at London College of Fashion, Una creates what she describes as ‘wearable pieces of art’ - creations that are suitable for both the body and an exhibition stand, as demonstrated at the Vauxhall fashion scout exhibition space, during London Fashion Week last season. I met up with Una, earlier this week to find out what she’s been up to since and what she has in-store for us this season:

 As I enter Una’s studio in south London, I am greeted with the beautiful strong smell of leather that’s being emitted from various armour-like pieces dotted around the room. My eyes are drawn to one sculptural piece in particular; ‘Everybody seems to loves that one’ Una says whilst catching my gaze. ‘The leather has darkened now though and it’s a bit worn.’ This is not surprising, as this delicate bodice and many others from the A.W 2010 collection, RE.TREAT, have been requested for wear by celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Fergie, as well as numerous stylists and photographers, (most recently David Bailey and David Sims) to shoot for fashion magazines world wide. On her desk, Una has stacked copies of the magazines in question, which titles include Vogue Italia and Numero, whilst on her walls she hangs posters from exhibitions and events she has presented at: Una is extremely proud of her accomplishments as a designer but in a rather modest and humble way. When asked ‘what has been your greatest achievement so far?’ Una can’t name just one. “There are so many to be honest; I’ve been incredibly lucky. There are so many designers who are extremely talented and would give their left arm for any one of the opportunities I’ve had” “…but being involved in ITS8 was really amazing” “…And to have Lady Gaga wanting to wear my work - I mean she has the choice of everyone in the world only to come and ask me!” And the list goes on: she tells me about when several of her pieces were taken to the Namibian desert to be shot for a fashion film called ‘Sand People’, how she was named by Vogue Italia amongst the ‘140 new emerging design talent’ and invited by them to show her portfolio during Milan Fashion Week in September 2009, and how she was featured on Vogue.it as one of Patti Wilson’s favorite emerging designers. And, if there’s one thing for certain, it’s that Una is talented…

I am interested to know if and how exhibiting with Vauxhall Fashion Scout last season helped you as a designer? Yeah definitely, I have had some great publicity and it was good also as it meant that it put me in touch with the people that I needed to be put in touch with here and there; the support from people like Martyn, the director, is great. It’s genuine at Vauxhall Fashion Scout and they offer the real help that you need in the fashion world. 

Your A.W 2010/11 collection was very conceptual, driven by your research into human trauma- what has been your inspiration behind this latest collection? Well it’s still coming from that point, as I’m using the same construction that I devised through doing that research, but I’m making some more useable pieces so people who have admired my work in the past can actually purchase a piece of it that they can really wear. I seem to just have this style that always comes out when I come to play around. 

Where would you love too see these new pieces stocked?

Browns Focus as that’s where a lot of emerging designers’ work is sold, and I think that’s where a lot of people go to when they’re looking for interesting and new pieces.
There’s also a Store in San Francisco called Circle & Square, who have been asking for some bags from me for about a year now.

How would you describe your working process?
Well how I design is with experimentation: I take a piece of leather, twist it, turn it and attach it different ways together and then I’ll apply that to different areas of the body.

Why did you choose leather crafting as your specialism?
I’m not quite sure; it just seems to be something that I’m drawn to. I think it’s because I have such a respect for the heritage of leather working and I think It's bad when traditional crafts are dismissed. The idea of creating something with your hands is such an amazing gift and its so satisfying... I find it sad that people don’t appreciate it as much anymore.

You have previously done some work at Philip Treacy: That must have been inspiring… The reason I wanted to work with Philip in particular is because his work is very sculptural and quite bizarre - I mean who would have thought about putting a boat on their head? His pieces are fashion but very much art as well. I think that’s what I appreciated about working with him: He is very inspiring and for me what I found incredible was the idea of doing art pieces that you wear.

Who would you love to dress? Madonna of course!  Also, Bjork and Tilda Swinton, they’re all such strong characters.
…and actually Daphne Guinness wore one of my pieces recently for the new NARS cosmetics ad campaign and she is someone incredible whom I’ve always wanted to wear my work.

You have in the past described your work as ‘wearable pieces of art’ - do you consider your self then as an artist or a fashion designer? A bit of both. I’ve always had this kind of internal argument of where I want to be. Whilst at college my mind eventually set on fashion but then every time I was doing a fashion project there was always an art element to it, which was very conceptual. At this stage it’s funny because I’ve seem to have come full circle and I’m back at that internal argument with my self as I’m not sure which way I’m going again. I think what I would really love to do is keep pushing fashion but then every couple of years create something very artistic, designed for exhibition.

Una’s latest collection will be exhibited with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in both London and Paris for the SS11 Showcase.
 

 

Sarah Barlow

Vintage at Goodwood Festival

Last weekend the British Fashion Council partnered with Vintage at Goodwood Festival to curate a unique fashion show entitled ‘Future Vintage’. Chaired by Sarah Mower, the BFC ambassador for emerging talent, a panel of expert Fashion Editors selected five emerging designers that fit the brief to show in the Catwalk event.

One of the designers selected was this season’s New Gen award winner David Koma.


As Koma has shown with Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week for the past two seasons we were more than excited to see him doing so well!


The show opened with a film celebrating the works of designers such as Zandra Rhodes, exploring the regeneration of fashions passed and the concept of design. Though for us the main spectacle was Koma’s collection, styled by none other than our Ones To Watch stylist Pandora Lennard.


All in all Vintage at Goodwood was a fashion filled weekend well spent!



Lara Angol

Interview with Ones To Watch Winner - Georgia Hardinge

To conclude the exclusive interviews with Fashion Scout's Ones To Watch winners, last but not least, Kenny Wang catches up with Georgia Hardinge…

How do you feel about winning a place in the Ones to Watch showcase at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?


It feels great! The level of support is invaluable! As it’s my first show I will definitely need a helping hand this time!


What did you do to celebrate?


I’ve been so excited but have put all my energy into getting stuck in and working on my collection.


Were you interested in fashion when you were growing up? 



Absolutely, fashion has been an interest of mine from a very young age.


Who is your favorite designer and why?


I love the conceptual aspects of Hussein Chalayan’s work, and for that reason he has to be my favorite designer.


If you were not a fashion designer, what would you do?


It would definitely be something creative, perhaps an installation artist or a Sculptor.


What music do you listen to when you are designing?


When I’m designing in the studio I play 80’s music and listen to the radio a lot.


Where would you like to see your brand in a few years?


I think it is important to have steady growth. I am to remain creative and stay true to my philosophy.


Have you been to any of our Mentoring Events? What are your thoughts of the sessions? Has it helped?


I attended 3 meetings before I opened my business and they were really helpful! I would absolutely recommend the sessions to any designers either starting out or thinking of expanding.


Are you looking forward to your show at London Fashion Week?


I’m so excited to be showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season!




Kenny Wang

Interview with Ones To Watch Winner - LiLee

Earlier today, Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Kenny Wang caught up with Ones To Watch winner LiLee...

How do you feel about winning a place in the Ones to Watch showcase at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?

It was unexpected and amazing! I was so happy to be chosen and excited to be able to show my collection though this amazing opportunity!

What did you do to celebrate?

I really wanted to shout out when I heard that I had won the Ones to Watch but I was in a gallery with my family. We then had a special dinner in Hakasan in London.

Were you interested in fashion when you were growing up?

My talent and passion for fashion came from my mom. She sometimes made clothes for my doll. I remember I had an obsession about filling my doll’s closet. Whenever I had some money I always ran to the toyshop and bought my doll some garments.


What was your experience in the fashion industry before forming your own label?


I worked as a fashion designer in a big company in Korea. It was really fun and developed my colour and fabric planning skills.


Who is your favorite designer and why?


Jean Paul Gautier. He’s the master of fashion. His technical skills are perfect. I love many great fashion designers in a big couture houses such as Phoebe Philo, John Galliano and Ricardo Tisci, but Jean Paul Gautier’s couture collection is absolutely superb.


If you were not a fashion designer, what would you do?


I would still want to be in a creative job. A chef or interior designer or professional house wife..?


What music do you listen to when you are designing?



It depends on the theme of the collection. I like Carla Bruni, and sometimes I listen to Karl Lagerfeld's compilation album, “les musiques que j'amime." I can easily imagine a model on the catwalk wearing a dress from my sketchbook with that music.


Where would you like to see your brand in a few years?


I will show my collection steadily for five years and try to show something my development each season. After 5 years, I hope the business becomes bigger and I can continue my design development.


Have you been to any of our Mentoring Events? What are your thoughts of the sessions? Has it helped?



Martyn from Vauxhall Fashion Scout gave me essential advice that young designers have to know. I am looking forward to the new series of mentoring events. 


Are you looking forward to your show at London Fashion Week?

Absolutely, I am so excited!

It has been my dream for a long time and I am looking forward to showing the “good things” of Lilee through this show!




Kenny Wang