Martina Spetlova and PEDIGREE

Martina Spetlova AW 10

Vauxhall Fashion Scout designer, Martina Spetlova has joined forces with Cornel Bolt, Nika Urbas and Shao Yen and Agneiska Maciejak to create an exciting collective of new emerging fashion talent entitled PEDIGREE. Launching this Saturday night at the Pattern Cutting Factory in East London, the group will present their latest creations through video collaborations and installations. You can also catch Martina’s new SS ‘11 collection at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition at the Freemasons Hall, Covent Garden, during London Fashion Week from this Friday.  

Sarah Barlow

William Tempest Debuts At New York Fashion Week

Previous Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award winner, William Tempest, made his New York Fashion Week debut yesterday, with the presentation of his SS 11 collection. Entitled ‘The Sirens Song,’ (inspired by the half-woman/ half-fish mythical creatures) Tempest’s latest collection reflected a vibrant colour palette with stunning shades of coral, lime and nude. With the American market in mind, the 24 year old designed a series of draped gowns and loosely fitting jumpsuits, in addition to his signature style of sharp sculptured dresses.

Here William talks to Hilary Alexander at the Daily Telegraph about his decision to go state side, the cost of presenting at New York Fashion Week and his celebrity fan following:

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Preview Shoot

With such an amazing line up of designers showing with Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season, we just couldn’t wait until Fashion Week to show them off. 

Bringing with us a talented collective of hair stylists from Toni and Guy, Make up artists from the Academy of Freelance Makeup (AOFM) and stylist Sara Gilmour, We hijacked the Russian Club Studios in East London last week to create a series of stylish images, presenting you all with a taster of what’s to come at the VFS shows and presentations scheduled to commence this weekend.

As well as featuring the very best in emerging design talent including our four Ones To Watch Designers and Merit Award Winner, Eudon Choi, our preview shoot allowed us to support and collaborate with all types of new creative talent; from fresh faced models to graduate make up artists tutored by Maria Papadopoulou at AOFM as well as trainee hair stylists under the watchful eye of Tim Fussedorn from Toni and Guy.

The female models were all beautifully ‘made up’ with soft shades of brown and beige on the lids, framed by a heavy brow. “It’s a shoot showcasing SS ‘11 fashion trends, so I wanted to convey that season also through the make up.” Explains Maria. “I like to be aware and ahead of future beauty trends: SS ‘11 is all about revisiting the 90s but with a more natural approach to colour”

Interestingly, next season’s hot hairstyles also reflect a 90s vibe: “Think early Kate Moss on the cover of 90s i-D.” says Tim, who has been working with the hair dressing company and one of our major sponsors, Toni and Guy for around twenty years. The hairstyles that were expertly coiffed for the shoot ranged from ‘delicate waves’ to ‘extreme straight’: “keep it simple… Don’t over do it,” was Tim’s tip of the day.

Toni and Guy have had a close affiliation with Vauxhall Fashion Scout since our very first season in February 2009. “There is such a good marriage between Vauxhall Fashion Scout and Toni and Guy.” States Tim. “Although London produces some of the best fashion talent and undoubtedly has an amazing street-style culture, it has in the past suffered, as has not had sufficient sponsorship for new designers to get out there during London Fashion Week… However, Vauxhall Fashion Scout and Toni and Guy together promote and support these new emerging designers that would have otherwise in the past been ignored.”

And what do you both think of VFS creating a preview shoot? “It’s a fantastic idea” agree both Maria and Tim. “There is a lot of great talent this season; every few seasons you get a fantastic new fresh batch… It’s exciting!” Continues Tim. “And exciting that we get to see it here first!” And so can you: Visit our new revamped website now to see the final pictures from the day and a taster of our featured designer’s SS 11 Collections.


Words: Sarah Barlow
Photography: Natalia Ilina

An Interview with Nimesh Gadhia of Post Human Wardrobe

It was simply by chance that I was able to get a few moments with our budding designer Nim Gadhia of Post Human Wardrobe. As he popped into our office last week I seized the opportunity to bother him with a couple of questions about his upcoming presentation. It turns out this understated menswear designer with a knack for fusing form and function has actually got an action packed presentation up his sleeve as Post Human Wardrobe makes it’s debut at London Fashion Week this season.

This is your first time showing at London Fashion Week, are you excited to be exhibiting with Vauxhall Fashion Scout?

Yes, I’m thrilled!  This is my first time showing during London Fashion Week and I feel a platform such as Fashion Scout is the perfect launching pad for a new designer like myself.

What can you reveal about the format for your presentation this season?

I will be making a short fashion film almost like a music video that, instead of regular catwalk models, will feature Brazilian fighters. We’ve got Jujitsu and Capoeira fighters to feature in the film, each will be wearing my designs and performing all kinds of exciting acrobatics. The film will be set to a high energy bass filled background tune.

On the day itself the clothing will of course be there on a rail and the athletes are going to perform a live demonstration as well!

What has been your inspiration this season?

This season is a philosophical and physical exploration of the requirements of clothing worn in Brazilian martial arts. It is this, combined with traditional elements of tailoring and menswear construction, that enables me to produce a contemporary menswear collection. This season think Chris Cunningham meets Sean Connery, but in his younger days.

What has inspired your colour palette?

It’s minimal. If you’re juggling pattern, interesting silhouette and structure and you want to keep it wearable, for me, you can’t put too many colours in the mix.

Describe your overall design discipline and concept?

Form follows function.

What are your thoughts on London Fashion Week designating a specific day each season for menswear?

It’s great that we have an entire day with one sole focus and everyone is in town for that day specifically. Although it seems a bit silly really, considering most menswear buyers close their books by the end of July! Most menswear designers around the world show in June yet London menswear shows in September. With that said it is an invaluable opportunity for press and exposure, particularly as it is my first time showing!

Where do you see Post Human wardrobe in the future?

I see it as a brand with longevity and I aim to be around for quite a while! This A/W should be exciting. I am looking forward to getting stuck into layers, creating coats and knitwear. From here on out I intend to proliferate, continuing to build a brand and eventually have it stocked everywhere!

The Post Human Wardrobe presentation takes place from 13:00 to 16:00 on Wednesday the 22^nd of September 2010 at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue. See www.vauxhallfashionscout.com for more info.

Lara Angol

Vogue.com Features Fashion Scout Preview Shoot

Today, fresh off the press, vogue.com released taster images from our Spring / Summer 2011 preview shoot. Mentioned in the feature are, what Vogue describes as "Fashion Scout's chosen five", Merit Award winner Eudon Choi as well as Ones-To-Watch designers Georgia Hardinge, A.Hallucination, Charlotte Taylor and LiLee! 

It seems Vogue are just as excited as us to see what our budding designers have in store for Spring/ Summer!

Lara Angol

An Interview With Stefan Orschel-Read

Recently I paid a visit to the Orschel-Read studio to chat with menswear designer Stefan and grab an exclusive peek at his S/S 11 collection ( note the teaser image of some of his fabrics above). When I arrived Stefan was rounding up a day filled with faces as he’d spent the afternoon casting for his upcoming catwalk show. Impressed by his efficiency I studied the practically completed Spring/ Summer collection as the charming melody of his show music danced around the room. When the last model had sauntered out of the studio a relaxed and quietly confident Stefan chatted warmly about what we are to expect from Orschel-Read this season…

What is inspiring you this season and how did you come up with the concept for this collection?

This collection will be about classic English tailoring with hints of 70’s dandy styling. It tells a story of a young playboy on the south coast of France and Italy and his journey to become a fully-fledged adult, a man of responsibility. We have touches of both leisurewear and decadence but always with a more grown up edge.

Is this something that inspired the colour palette?
The colours transpired organically. As there is a lot of evening wear I wanted to avoid doing an entirely black collection and instead find something very flattering whilst picking up that 70’s influence. This was channeled through looking back at 70’s bond films; there were a lot of tuxedos with that little bit of a shine to them and plenty of dark navy. The aim was to achieve something a little more decadent than black to avoid looking funereal

Your fabric choice is often contrasting; leathers with luxury, ethically sourced materials with digital prints, what can we expect this season?

I’m really excited about my fabrics this season, as there will be a lot of understated yet luxurious textures. I’ve used dupion and raw silks as well as high grade Sea Island cotton. All the grey suiting is cashmere and we’ve used that cashmere on things like flight and biker jackets. It’s about pushing the luxury up on silhouettes we are already familiar with.

Along side silks and blended wools I have employed a very interesting bamboo fiber for my knitwear pieces. It feels softer against the skin than cashmere! However the key tailoring fabric is tonic, a somewhat shimmering iridescent dark blue.

Last season your models were adorned with chunky geometric jewelry designed by Marie Parsons, will you be collaborating with an accessories designer again?

This season the jewelry will be pared right down to 70’s inspired chain link cufflinks, all of which have been produced in-house. The eagle motif detailed on each cufflink refers to a military theme occurring throughout the collection.

What kind of music do you blare out in the studio whilst you’re designing?

It varies, my main obsession Is Tori Amos, I have every song she’s ever recorded! If we listen to her we’ll have about 7 days worth of music. However I do also enjoy some really naff music such as N-Dubz and Miss Dynamite. It’s good to have contrast between the classy singer/songwriter tracks and the stuff we just play to be a bit silly.

What do you do to get your models in the right frame of mind before a show?

If anything I actually try and hype them down! Often, male models tend to power walk. They are real peacocks! I think it is important not to alienate the viewer. I don’t want them to think ‘he looks cool in that’ only because he’s strutting like he’s worth a million bucks. I’d rather calm the models down and have them walk like they are listening to their ipod on the street, which is more difficult to portray.

Describe the Orschel-Read man?

He is constantly evolving. He is someone that is attracted by the allure of wealth and has a taste for the really refined; hand tailored suits. Someone who is in touch with his theatrical side, which is something that is expressed more and more in menswear. It’s no longer about conforming it is about finding those individualities that define us and allow freedom.

Do you think the niche for couture menswear has grown since you first launched your label?

Absolutely, which in an odd way has allowed me to step back and focus more on my ready-to-wear. When I started my label it was purely couture because I felt we were at a time where couture was relevant again for men, however this time it wasn’t for kings and emperors it was for Joe blog on the street. Since 2008 menswear has really exploded in terms of creativity, from street wear down to what we conceive as conservative on Savile row. Essentially couture for men has happened, the revolution came and it is nice that it has filtered back into the ready-to-wear. It’s OK and almost expected that a man should now dress to represent himself as an individual.

Pop icon Lady Gaga has been known to wear one of your designs, what do you think about your clothes being adapted to the female silhouette?

Whether I like it or not one of the underlying themes in my work is androgyny. Whilst I have no desire to design for women, that adaptation is inevitable and somewhat perfect. I don’t see a divide between men and women, I see differences but far more similarities.

Where do you see your label in the future?

I intend to maintain a London presence and to be stocked in more niche boutiques around the world, the Far East perhaps.

What are your plans once Fashion Week is over?

I will actually be in the second year of my masters at the Royal College of Art so as soon as this happens I’ll be designing my next collection and my collection after that and my graduate collection after that! The day after a show is a massive anti climax, you’ve had 6 months of manic work leading up to a mere fifteen minute show. The only remedy is to either get straight on a plane and go on holiday or get stuck back into work!

Lara Angol

An Interview With Jeff Garner: Prophetik

As Fashion week approaches we are becoming ever more eager to see what our designers will deliver this season! Last week I managed to catch up with Jeff Garner of Prophetik to steal a glimpse of what he’s planning for his upcoming show. Jeff revealed his inspiration, shared his passion for sustainable fashion and hinted about what is going to be an unmissable catwalk event! If last season's Prophetik show is anything to go by (legendary live rock acts accompanying the models down the catwalk) the S/S 11 show is set to impress.

What is inspiring your collection this season and how did you come up with the concept?

‘Midnight Garden’ is the name of the show and tracks the journey of a fearless explorer who stumbles upon his ethereal Muse in a midnight moonlit garden in the Deep South. What better way to be inspired than to be in the ideal of love? The concept came to me in a vision after contemplating what true love really exemplifies.  Unlike most societal programming or codependent natures, the ethereal, romantic soul of a woman desires nothing else than to go on an adventure with her explorer, not have him discover her, and the adventure to end.

Is this something that has inspired the colour palette?

Very much so.  The blues, reds, and teal tones showcase the passion of idealism, the ethereal coming up from the sea and magical places. The neutrals represent the safety and security of simple realism and every day life.

Your brand is built upon sustainability both in the fabrics you use and means of production. What kind of sustainable design practice can we expect this season?

The newest sustainable practice is implemented through the whole collection through our use of plant and earth-based dyes that we grow in our community garden in Nashville, Tennessee.  We’re discovering new colours and developing a more productive future for natural dyes that will benefit the fashion industry as a whole.

Do you feel the awareness for sustainable fashion has grown considerably since you first launched?

I firmly feel that sustainable fashion has grown and has become more of a topic of conversation recently fashion weeks all over the world.

Prophetik has a strong presence in the US and is stocked internationally. What is it about showing in London that appeals to you?

One never knows what draws him or her to a person, place, or idea, yet they are drawn and must go. I know I am supposed to be in London, to be part of the strong sustainable movement, pioneered by the likes of Orsola de Castro and Estethica. London has a foothold in the door in regards to sustainable design and I plan to be at the front lines alongside everyone here, fighting for the same cause and awareness in ethical fashion.

Plus, I like to ride horses in Hyde Park and in the countryside on the weekends.

Last season we saw both men’s and womenswear from Prophetik, is this something we should expect again for spring/ summer?

Yes one cannot have a Muse without a suitor, or lady without a Southern gentleman. It would seem they tend to go nicely together. I also design my pieces for the transitional wearer, where the garments can be worn by either sex, except for the ball gowns!

Your A/W 11 catwalk show went off with a bang as a live rock act accompanied the models on the catwalk, can we expect theatrics like that for this season?

As a creative artist I tell as story to communicate a passionate vision each season and my medium is clothing and the catwalk show. As long as I am creating I will have a message to share, and yes, Prophetik’s trademark theatrics will be part of the show on the 17th.  Without giving too much away, I am definitely bringing a little bit of Tennessee with me back to London.

Aside from this does music influence your work in any other respect?

Music allows the soul to dance and it always plays a role in my design process.

Describe the Prophetik customer, who is he/she?

A romantic, Renaissance artist that has a sense of value and conscious thought.

Where do you see your brand in the future?

Prophetik will continue to grow as a global fashion eco brand and continue as a beacon in the sustainable arena, and I see a barn in Leipers Fork, Tennesse in a field of indigo and marigolds, which will serve as our design studio, keeping us accountable to the vision by staying simple.

Lara Angol

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Model Casting

 

Earlier today the Freemasons Hall in Covent Garden was the location for the first of our group model casting for London Fashion Week. Walking into the main hall I found myself surrounded by a sea of tall and glamorous girls, making me feel a bit like an oompa-loompa (minus the orange!) Whilst the models were waiting to be seen I grabbed the opportunity to ask them their thoughts on our casting process: “The fact that it is all held in just one place is such a relief from having to try and be at three different castings at the same time, which is of course impossible!”

Models from top agencies including Storm, Profile, Premier, Elite and Models 1 were strutting their stuff up and down the width of the room, whilst our designers closely watched their every move. “The casting today has been really great for the models as it enables them to see a whole group of designers at one time” says designer Elliott J Frieze, who will be presenting his SS 11 collection with us this Sunday. “As the castings are held in the main hall where the shows will take place, it also creates a good opportunity for the designers to see the models in the actual runway space, which is quite rare!”

Sarah Barlow, all Images by Simon Armstrong

An Interview With Elliott J Frieze

British label, Elliott J Frieze, creates beautifully tailored womenswear and menswear which primarily focuses on being… well, British! Although this is not Elliott’s first time showing at London Fashion Week, it is with Vauxhall Fashion Scout and we couldn’t be more excited. I caught up with Elliott last week to find out more about the man behind the name…

You had success last season at London Fashion Week, are you excited about showing with Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season?

Yes absolutely, I think initiatives such as Vauxhall Fashion Scout create great opportunities for new designers to showcase on such a great platform during London Fashion Week, which generate more scope.

For people who are unfamiliar with the Elliott J Frieze brand, how would you describe your signature style?

Elliott J Frieze is a very British brand. I grew up in the British countryside where we kept a lot of horses, so a lot of my work has references to polo, show jumping and other traditional British sports such as cricket and the Oxford and Cambridge boat races.

You have previous experience working with a couple of other designers… tell me a bit about that?

Well I have been in the industry now for about 10 years in one way or another: I started off as a model, and did campaigns for designers such as Paul smith and Michiko Koshino. I then actually started working for Michiko and stayed there for about two and half years, before co founding Qasimi.

You left Qasimi to set up your own label a couple years ago now; what sparked your decision to go at it alone?

To be honest it’s always been in the back of my mind. As a person, I don’t like to have to compromise and so prefer to be in complete control, especially when it comes to designing as I want things to be exactly how I envision them to be: The only way to have that is to have your own company!

Did working as a model help you to get a grasp of the fashion industry?

Well I think by having 10 years working within the fashion industry in all different sectors provides me with a deeper understanding as a whole. I think it’s really important as a designer and as a creative director of a brand, that you understand all aspects of the industry, from model castings to production. Some fashion students think that design is all about illustration, drawing a nice picture of a nice outfit, but it’s really important to understand how that outfit is made and how much it will cost to make that drawing a reality. I now take on a lot of students as interns, some based in London and some in Wales, to help them understand how a fashion business works: Experience is so incredibly important.

What has been your inspiration behind your SS 11 Collection?

My initial idea was to design a wardrobe for Anna Popperwell, the actress. Anna has been a loyal supporter of mine as well as a long time friend. We met together while I was working with Koshino, at the ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ premier and have remained friends ever since. I told her a couple of months ago that she was an inspiration behind my SS ‘11 collection and asked her to close my show, which she agreed to!

Another inspiration behind the collection is childhood: I have now got two young nieces and so am constantly surrounded by children’s books, especially those written by Roald Dahl and illustrated by Quentin Blake. One of the books in particular called ‘Boy: Tales of a Childhood’ fascinated me as has a chapter in it called ‘Mrs Pratchett’s Sweetshop’ which inspired a bold confectionary colour palette. For this latest collection I’ve also created my own Quentin Blake style illustrations, which I have then embroidered onto the fabrics.

You design both womenswear and menswear: Do the collections link each season or do you like to keep them as separate ranges?

When I am designing I always have an idea of a certain guy and girl in mind so my designs specifically suit them, but then I use the same fabric for both my menswear and womenswear collections, as what I select is never solely for one or the other. The concepts behind each link together too. This season I’ve featured the classic trench which transpires into both men’s and women’s, whether it be a short trench-dress or a classic men’s trench coat.

You have had Amber Le Bon and Jacquetta wheeler model for you already, what other style icons would you love to see in your creations?

When it comes to designing my men’s wear in particular, I’ve always got Tom Warren, (the male model) in mind, so he would be great. But it’s always got to be someone quintessentially British.

Where would you like to see your label in 5 years time?

I would love to take the label over seas and showcase at other fashion weeks. As the New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks are all back-to-back, it is impossible for some buyers to attend all. I’m actually showing in Paris as well this season which is great as it enables those who can’t come to London to hopefully get a chance to see the collection over there.

I’d also like to branch out more and create an accessories line, and a few companies have approached me to suggest collaborative projects with them, which is a possibility if I get more time.

Sarah Barlow

Florence Welch Wears BodyAmr

Florence and the Machine - Dog Days Are Over VMA
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Florence Welch of Florence and the Machine performed live at the MTV Video Music awards in Los Angeles last night, dressed in a bespoke nude silk chiffon caped dress with tensile drape detail built over a power net bodice styled with gold anklet’s by BodyAmr. Florence’s dress echoes the BodyAmr SS11 collection, to be shown on the runway at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week.

Sarah Barlow

Florencia Kozuch features in 3rd Floor Magazine

 

One of last years Fashion Scout Ones-To-Watch designers Florencia Kozuch features in issue 3 of 3rd Floor Magazine! The Designers beautiful crafted knitwear graces the cover, looking like a web of angel hair whilst her accessories set the attitude for the shoot. We love the sharp cascading shapes dripping from the tiered necklace and the cage inspired crop-top exposing panels of skin. It is great to admire our designers in a context other than  the catwalk, yet (as we keep saying) we cannot wait to see what each of our designers will be exhibiting / sending down the catwalk this Spring/Summer.

Lara Angol

Vauxhall Fashion Scout's New Website has gone LIVE!!!

Our new website just gone live! It is a fresh new day for our new season. Please check out the preview shoot in our gallery section for a first look at some of our amazing designers. We are keeping the rest to ourselves for now but all will be revealed during Fashion Week...

Thanks for all the support and we hope you enjoy exploring our new site!


Kenny Wang

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Designers Preview on Grazia Daily

Bodyamr

Sara Bro Jorgensen

We offered Grazia a sneak preview of our latest shoot, presenting some of this season's catwalk, presentation and exhibition designers, including Bodyamr, Florencia Kozuch and Sara Bro Jorgensen to name a few.

Keep your eyes peeled for more images that will be released in the run up to London Fashion Week...

Click here to be one of the first to see it!

Rachel Menashy

David Koma features in 3rd Floor Magazine

Inspired designer David Koma is featured in issue 3 of 3rd Floor magazine. The article explores his inspiration, plans for the future and his successes as his label and profile as a designer rocketed after winning the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award with his S/S 10 collection. Get your hands on this, it's absolutely worth a read!

Lara Angol

Win our show tickets with Grazia

Who would have thought that the male of the species had a secret yearning to be fashion designers? The results of a survey taken by Vauxhall Fashion Scout were featured on GraziaDaily.co.uk today, showing that contrary to popular belief, men are more likely to look up to Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood than people like Wayne Rooney or David Cameron!

Also on GraziaDaily is a not-to-be-missed competition organised by Fashion Scout whereby one lucky person can win the opportunity to mingle with the fashionistas this fashion week by winning two tickets for a top show! If that wasn’t enough to get you racing over to enter right away, then how does a £500 shopping spree at Selfridges, a night at the amazing Hotel Russell, and dinner for two sound?

Just answer one simple question and you’ll be in with a chance – but hurry, it ends tomorrow!

Chloe Wade

Eudon Choi and David Longshaw in ELLE magazine

Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner Eudon Choi and last seasons Ones To Watch designer David Longshaw, are featured in the 25^th Anniversary Collectors Issue of ELLE magazine this month!

With the knowledge that Eudon and David were going to feature, we’ve patiently awaited the arrival of this month’s issue. When it finally arrived at the Fashion Scout office we feverishly thumbed through its pages to find one of their most iconic designs beautifully adorned upon one of the world’s greatest Supermodels, Helena Christensen.

In the feature both Eudon and David speak about their inspiration and career highs, along with Eudon Choi's first solo show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week S/S11.

We can’t wait to see what our designers have in store for us this season!

Lara Angol

Evening Standard - Vauxhall Fashion Scout Kingston Show

Yesterday's Evening Standard featured one of the Kingston University Students showing with Vauxhall Fashion Scout for S/S 11. It is delightful to see such young designers recognized for their innovation and fresh ideas. In the article MA Fashion student Emily Crane is praised for her imaginative design discipline as she takes inspiration from celebrity Chef (some say chef, some say magician) Heston Blumenthal by fusing food substances such as Gelatine, Seaweed and food dyes. Emily has become not just a conceptual young designer but an inventor in her own right and we can't wait to see the rest of her fantastic edible pieces this season!

The Kingston MA Fashion presentation and Catwalk show takes place during London Fashion Week a the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue on Friday 17th of September.

Lara Angol

Sunday Times Style features finalists for Fashion Fringe

This weekend The Sunday Times Style magazine featured the three finalists for this season's Fashion Fringe Award which will be judged by none other than fashion royalty John Galliano. 

Here at the Fashion Scout office we were beyond excited to see a sneak S/S 11 preview for designers Alice Palmer and Jade Kang who have each shown with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in previous seasons.

The new designs look amazing and we can't wait to see more! Congratulations and good luck to each designer!

Lara Angol