LFW day 5 - BodyAmr Catwalk Review

BodyAmr brought us a powerful show full of strong and dominant ‘Amazonian’ models with solid frames. The garments were glamorous and feminine and exuded luxury and excess in a sexually elegant manner. The show was introduced by a sound track of a female protester giving a commanding political speech encouraging strong will, determination and perseverance at a recent and very relevant event. Searching spotlights were blasted around the audience and the first model strode athletically at great speed down the cross-shaped runway.  

Shaggy Mongolian sheep skin boleros in camel, black and turquoise escorted billowing silk gowns into the Autumn / Winter season. There was a stunning combination of body-con, draped, cowl neck and flowing dresses as well as sophisticated playsuits.  Some dresses consisted of body-con, high neck and long sleeves teamed with draped layers on top. There was a range of desirable camisoles in delicious block colours and in particular this season’s biggest colour; burnt orange. Mini dresses and ball gowns alike were bedazzled with gold plates and sequins which complemented the lavish swathes of silk. 
BodyAmr are hoping that this collection will entice powerful Middle Eastern women. Their idea behind the muse would be a modern woman starting revolutions in corrupt countries, just the recent events in Tahrir Square, Egypt. I can see Cleopatra the ancient queen of Egypt being an ideal customer. Every model wore ‘slave bangles’ on the ankles of their shoes to promote them as powerful women who have not forgotten their roots as an Odalisque. A pontificating woman on the sound track heard throughout the show was followed by dramatic music that would be at home in a cinematic battle scene.

Sitting in front row I peeked into my glossy black goody bag to find there a very sleek and on trend pair of head phones by ‘Urban Ears’ in a plum purple tone. Amber Rose was spotted looking striking and dominant wearing a BodyAmr dress from the show she modelled in last season.

Words : Charlotte Summers
Images 1-7 : Lucas Seidenfaden
Image 8 : Ezzidin Alwan
Illustration : Andy Bumpus

LFW Day 5 - Joanne Hynes & Helen Steele Catwalk Review

Art and fashion have long had a love/hate relationship but today there was perfect harmony and sparks flew as designer Joanne Hynes and artist Helen Steele united in a celebration of creativity. These two innovators are inspired by a fusion of distinct Irish heritage and fine art painting, making for an eclectic combination with truly original results in a collection entitled “The Warriors”.

An energetic mix of textures included tweed, recycled wool, fur (lots of), jute, Indian silks with jacquard patterns and Aran and leather encrusted with chunky crystals, which was all finished off with either a birds nest or Mohawk atop the model’s heads. Models shuffled down the runway on high clogs and platforms like moving works of art on a plinth, or they strutted in flat python patchwork boots fit for an Irish pirate queen.

Colours were bright and inspiring as earthy tweeds and Aran collided with furs in emerald green, zesty orange and fuchsia and shiny black leather. Long dresses in red velvet or gold metallics hung elegantly from the shoulder to reveal a powerful female silhouette suitable for Boudica (battlefield chic?), and were finished with gold and diamond encrusted collars.

James Brown (a clear fan of the designer) was at the show and VFS caught up with him backstage to discover that this was in fact the only show at London Fashion Week that he was in attendance for, testament to the excitement generated by this designer. He told us that the show left him reeling from its “energy in the colours and textures” and that he was now “full of inspiration”. James said, “I loved the Irish sensibility. The textures were great and I love fur”… “My favourite piece was an Aran embellished skirt”.

Helen has metamorphosed her paintings into kaleidoscopic prints to form long sweeping coats and bold swing dresses. Leather skits with layers of war paint exploded onto them by cheery pickers and chainsaws through performance art represent the unleashing of the warrior within. These are individual works of art and each garment comes with a DVD of its own creation. Fashion is further developed into a performance process with an installation film featuring a rain soaked dancer in an Irish field accompanied by haunting violin music and flashes of texture and Helen’s vibrant paintings.

Joanne and Helen are redefining established ways of working in the art and fashion worlds. Their work is focused on the present, the gesture and spontaneity of creating, which they aim to capture in the designs, much like a Jackson Pollock action painting, thus producing living works of art and fashion. By experimenting and unifying these two art practices with such fearlessness and fun the pair challenge trends of minimalism and cautiousness, and resemble the warrior queens who inspire them. This is raw creativity and very exciting to witness.

Words : Amy Lockwood
Images : Lucas Seidenfaden

LFW Day 5 - Maria Francesca Pepe Presentation

 Maria Francesca Pepe has created a mysterious underworld in the vestibule. Pagan patterns in salt fence off mannequins and fairy like models who fit seamlessly into the secretive, coded Masonic interiors. The atmosphere felt like a discovery of an ancient burial ground or a new dimension, and we were explorers and scientists studying pixie life forms and cult rituals. As Maria put it herself she aimed for a “magical and enchanting fairytale”. The three models had spritely features with enormous eyes, tiny noses and thin porcelain flesh. It was as though these creatures had been captured and preserved, it was a shock to see their big, black eyes flash and their chests rise and fall with gentle breaths. They were dusted with a pearl powder and watery crystals. These models bore a remarkable resemblance to Minority Report’s ‘Pre-Cogs’ in terms of their delicate innocence and foreign character.

The jewellery was harsh and aggressive with more tender clothing, they worked as one being; a collaborated costume. There were unicorn horns embellished with small gold studs growing from hooded faces. These were adorned with delicate metal and crystal masks. Chunky centipedes of gold became cuffs and chokers enhanced with yet more pointed studs. Gothic church cabinets encased considered jewellery displays on animal horns, adorned with gnarled prints of the fairy life forms. The safety pin words and letters are very wearable and serve a dual purpose as decoration and fastening. Many pieces were relevant in current jewellery trends with grungy three finger rings and dangling religious and cult symbols. Show stoppers were elbow brushing leather cuffs bejewelled with gold and pearl studs and knee high, distressed leather shin pads. The shoes were elegantly minimalist juxtaposed with harsh gold spears through the ankles and animal heads. Pepe sees her jewellery as “amulets”. The garments were subtle and elegant. Pepe used stretch sheer to create an entire body suit. There were structural leather pieces which came in the form of crop tops and loose waistcoats. Modest jersey leggings and tube skirts were teamed with graphic printed tees. The colour palate was simple black and off-white accented with gold and pearl jewellery.  A striking and memorable exhibition with high desirable and dramatic wearable pieces. 

Words : Charlotte Summers
Images : Ezzidin Alwan
Illustration : Andy Bumpus

LFW Day 4 - Ziad Ghanem Catwalk Review

Waited with much anticipation, the buzz was electric before the Ziad Ghanem A/W11 show. Fans, followers and industry folk queued around the block for the designer’s show last night; giddy with excitement. Gender rules were not an issue for Ziad’s audience - it was fitting that Boy George was sat front row. The lights dimmed and a beautiful but sluggish figure dragged herself on the catwalk; using her burlesque feathers as wings she grew taller and taller! (Many OMGs were gasped throughout the show, this the first of them). The music had a terrifying beat as the gigantic model came down the catwalk as though to scare us all away. The show then began. The over-all idea of horror was inspired by the nerving characters from the hit game Silent Hill. Ziad was also inspired by the works of artist John Henry Fuseli, known to paint nightmare scenes and evil creatures. The prints Ziad used on a range of the pieces looked to have been inspired by Fuseli’s art.  I asked Ziad after the show what was his inspiration behind the collection “Grotesque Hollywood” he told me, he went on to explain himself “because most of the Hollywood actresses look like miss world transsexual  and I wanted to put that in”. Rather than putting charming nymphs in his dresses he chose a surprising range of shocking models.

Characters as loud as the clothes stormed the catwalk proud of their individuality. To say Ziad’s choice of models was controversial would be an understatement; boys as girls, transgender, a possessed ballet dancer, vamps, a large lady, freaky girls – ‘what of it’ was their attitude. The make-up added even more drama to the show, as if there wasn’t enough already. Ziad told me backstage that he had asked all of his models to decide on their favourite horror film make-up and that is what they wore. The majority chose white faces, wicked black grins and hollow eyes. Taking a closer look at the garments away from the excitement of the make-up and models, there is even more to appreciate. Ziad puts so much into his collection, from the styling and the show to the design process. He used vintage silk chiffon for the free flowing gowns as well as Moroccan crepe from old couture mills. The light flow of the chiffon was beautifully displayed by a possessed ballet dancer who walked the catwalk on her points spinning as she went with the chiffon of her dress fluttering in her path. Paying homage to couturiers of the past Ziad wanted to compliment the female form in his collection, showcasing a ‘feminine and sensual silhouette’; corsetry, ruffled crepe, veils and delicate brocade illustrated this. Black lace and heavily embellished pieces added a little darkness to the collection. Ziad excelled himself; there was not one person in the room who did not gasp throughout the show.

Words : Louisa Kilburn
Images 1-4 & 10 : Ezzidin Alwan
Images 5-8 : Natalia Ilina
Image 9 : Lucas Seidenfaden
Illustration : Andy Bumpus

LFW Day 4 - Samantha Cole Presentation

Samantha Cole created this collection by following her keen interest in three dimensional structures. Often inspired by architecture Cole concentrated this time on how far she could push soft fabrics and textures, working them into a three dimensional structure.  She loves to explore what can be used to make her garments three dimensional and this collection showcases this with a combination of striking structural prominence with surprising wear-ability. Her favourite making process is to rip fabric apart to find what textures and structures can be fashioned. Astronautical fabrics are used, concealed beneath the stunning corsets and skirts. This technology helps the soft fabric stay in striking structural positions. The collection was created by an assembly of ribs which produces a ripple effect in the garments. The electronic music set a futuristic ambiance in the striking Vestibule space. Models pounded the runway with each step in time with a beat producing a conveyor belt of bionic women.

The first ensemble was a rectangular shift with a shoulder cube and Cole’s  progressive engraved leather.  Cubist inspired faces were etched into leather and velvet in panels and cut outs. Corsets which sat notably away from the chest were contrasted with smooth, body-con velvet dresses with square shoulders. Soft wool ribbons had us wanting to reach out and experience the  scintillating textures against our skin. The final garments brought the two opposing silhouettes of the show together in a playsuit and then ball gown; highly structured bodices gave way to indulgent drapery which fell elegantly to the floor. The theme of cubism continued in the use of matt black eye make-up and structurally prominent hair by Tony and Guy complemented the collection. The styling was inspired by the film “Fifth Element” and Cole aimed to produce a 'cool club for the future’ completely contrasting the actual collection. Cole told us she is “all about female empowerment” and this was evident in as her models looked strong and powerful as they strode dominantly down the catwalk. She hopes not that the collection will wear the woman but the woman will wear the collection, strong and confident.

Words : Charlotte Summers
Images courtesy of Aizak Buyondo

LFW Day 4 - Bunmi Koko Catwalk Review

Bunmi Koko’s AW11 collection is a kaleidoscope of intensely bright colours from outer space. Supernovas, rainbows and comets inspire Bunmi and generate a palette of ultra violets, oranges and sapphire which appear to radiate from the garments. She combines these phenomenon’s of light with the concept of the prism; a tool that harnesses the power of light and colour and she manipulates the images to produce futuristic Mc Queen style prints. A heavy use of black balances and grounds these fierce colours and patterns, offsetting them. The colours and prints are stunning, but equally so is the draping of the fabric, refining the design. Contrasts in fabric also contribute to this with hints of PVC, suede and sequins. The collection is a celebration of powerful femininity accentuated by strong shoulders, sexy high-waisted metallic leather skirts and full-bodied prom skirts. This powerful mix is hallucinogenic and with a pumping sound track and models who practically dance down the runway the show left viewers reeling from a party atmosphere.

Bunmi is compassionately using her exposure under the fashion spotlight to highlight the United Nations World Food Programme (WWP)’s “Fill the Cup” campaign.

 

Words : Amy Lockwood
Images : Ezzidin Alwan
Illustration : Andy Bumpus

Exhibition Designer Adam Andrascik

Adam Andrascik’s display at the Fashion Scout Exhibition is a pristine range of bright colours and rich textures that see a dramatic shift from his previous two collections. Intrepid Boxy silhouettes and jagged cuts have been softened into garments that harmonize with the wearer whilst still retaining flatness. Stiffness has been soothed as quilted fabric curves in accordance with the female form, echoed by flowing lines that produce softer edges. These quilted waves also provide a contrast to the flatness and texture of the wool.

Adam’s interest in deconstruction as a means of creation was exercised through his exploration of negative and positive spaces, and their interaction. He achieved this with cut out areas filled with mesh and contrasted with blocks of pale colour. This new collection continues to draw on a minimalist aesthetic that appears more conservative and self-assured with clean-cut asymmetric lines. NBA basketball shirts have been Adam’s inspiration for this season and he has strengthened these designs with a palette of bright primary colours such as fuchsias and oranges. Adam is rapidly developing and it will be exciting to see where he takes his designs in the future. This is altogether achingly modern and distinctly unique.
 

Words : Amy Lockwood

Images : Ezzidin Alwan