Wonderland Magazine Interviews Leutton Postle

Jack Mills from Wonderland magazine talked to our SS12 Merit Award winner, Leutton Postle, or how he described them  "the Lennon and McCartney of knitwear design"

The interview jumps from which are their favorite fabrics to knit,  how they got their interest in knitting or how they started to be Leutton Postle, to questions the like: which one are their new years resolutions, where the answer for that is taking more sausages or dieting, or how they going to decorate their studio for the festive times.

And finally the best question and best answer: 

"If you were to knit a hero of yours a Christmas jersey – who would it be for?"

THE SPICE GIRLS. Personalised jumpers for each of them, as they were… 

Are you tempted now? Read all the interview here. 

Words: Jack Mills

VFS Mentoring Evening: Sponsorship

Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Sponsorship Mentoring Event is taking place on Monday 12th December! Following on from the launch last month, the second event in the new series is Sponsorship, featuring guest speakers from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise and The Industry/Forward PR. The evening will explore the topic of sponsorship, discussing the issues involved in:    - Approaching sponsors - Finding the right sponsor, - How to tailor a sponsorship pitch - How to maximise results from your sponsorship package.    Sponsorship Monday 12th December @ 7pm Beach Blanket Babylon, Shoreditch Running in partnership with Beach Blanket Babylon and supported by the Mayor of London, these events are free to fashion designers and feature experts from across the industry.   Speakers for the evening:   Jill Askam: Head of Sponsorship Centre for Fashion Enterprise  dfdf The Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE) is London’s pioneering business incubator which supports and nurtures emerging fashion design talent.   The CFE boasts a past and present roster of international designers including Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll and Meadham Kirchhoff.   The CFE initiative provides guidance on finance, sponsorship and production, and introduces marketing expertise including routes to market and PR: essential for a brand’s survival.   Courtney Blackman: Managing Director of The Industry and Founder of Forward PR dfdf Courtney Blackman is a London-based entrepreneur working across various roles in the fashion industry. Courtney founded Forward PR in 2004 and continues to serve as the managing director. A fashion-focused press relations agency working in various sectors of fashion from around the globe including Corrie Nielsen and Verónica Moncho Lobo, as well as with large companies and events including the WGSN Global Fashion Awards and SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Courtney is the managing director of The Industry - a private group of fashion insiders including top designers, stylists, editors, photographers, manufacturers, illustrators, retailers and more who are helping to shape the business side of the industry.   Spaces are strictly limited to one representative per designer label.   Priority is given to Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers. RSVP essential to event@vauxhallfashionscout.com     The VFS Mentoring programme is only possible due to the kind support of Beach Blanket Babylon and the Mayor of London.   Look forward to seeing you there! Vauxhall Fashi

Not Just A Label and Wallpaper* partnered to launch The Graduate Directory

Wallpaper* and NJAL select fashion´s up & coming for 2012 a collection of pieces from the fashion graduates selected in partnership with NJAL for Wallpaper* magazine´s new graduates directory will be sold exclusively on NJAL´s E-shop for Christmas.

The selected graduates are: Aus Dem (Italy), Brian Suter-Maury (USA), Daniel Hurlin (France), Dinu Bodiciu (UK), Hannah Taylor (UK), Julie Eilenberger (Germany), Matthias Weber (Belgium), Myrza de Muynck (UK), Niels Peeraer (France), Nouio Tri (Taiwan), Saskia Schijen (UK), Victoria Spruce (UK), Vivienne Appelius (Germany)

Wallpaper* magazine and NOT JUST A LABEL (NJAL) join forces in showcasing this year’s best fashion design students for the Graduate Directory 2012. The Graduate Directory will be published in the January issue of Wallpaper*, which is available 8th December 2011. In conjunction with the partnership, Wallpaper*, the leading international design magazine, and NOT JUST A LABEL, have curated a special collection featuring products from each graduate, which is exclusively available on NJAL’s Online Shop.

Every December, Wallpaper* issues its renowned Graduate Directory in print and online, which highlights the year’s best graduates from various design arenas, including fashion, design and architecture. By working together to find the designers who most exemplify talent, skill and innovation in fashion design, Wallpaper* and NJAL were able to create an extraordinary assemblage. Taking the world’s most esteemed design schools and NJAL’s extensive database featuring over 7,000 fashion designers into account, Wallpaper* and NJAL selected a shortlist of 50 former students from 36 schools in 22 countries around the globe including Denmark, Mexico, Croatia and China. With further research from both parties, 13 of the most outstanding graduates from 2011 were selected to showcase in the magazine’s critical round up of tomorrow’s most promising talents.

To celebrate and honour the graduates who have been selected for the directory, NJAL is proud to introduce the Wallpaper* Grads subsection of the Online Shop. Taking a new spin on the Christmas shopping experience, NJAL is offering shoppers access to some of the most exclusive and highly sought after designs. The Wallpaper* Grads shop on NJAL will include a carefully selected collection of pieces from each fashion designer featured in the Graduate Directory.

NJAL aims to steer emerging fashion designers towards success and act as a media liaison. NJAL is honoured to be working in partnership with the prestigious publication to give designers exposure and introduce them in to the design world.

To view the the Wallpaper* Graduate Directory as well as the specially created E-Shop on NJAL .

The Secret Is Out! Anomalous Visual Event

Last month, we blogged about Anomalous Visual's extremely mysterious showcase exhibition which is set to take place this week. Bit by bit, we received snippets of information about the exhibition, through virals, emails and social media, and a private party invitation and now they've finally revealed the location of the exhibition!
So finally, the secret is out.

SSSShhhhhhhhhh...A SECRET SUBTERRANEAN SOLO SHOW

9th-11th Dec 2011

12-8pm Free Entry

Location: Below Abbot St car park, E8

See you there!

Sarah Potter- Editor

Vogue.Co.uk Online Fashion Week

It is happening...

It just started...

and you have been invited!

Dolly Jones, Vogue. com Editor and her team are behind this new initiative, Online Fashion Week

With guest of the likes Florence Welch, David Gandy for today and going through the handbag half hour, shopping treats and special discounts - click here to see what's happening right now.

Designer labels including Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Mulberry, Stella McCartney, Prada, Burberry, Miu Miu and Christian Louboutin join high street brands - from Topshop and Reiss, to Gap and Urban Outfitters - and boutiques and department stores, including Matches, Selfridges, Net-A-Porter, Browns, Harrods and Harvey Nichols, for the shopping extravaganza. Every single company is offering special online events, prizes, discounts or free gifts - and with every single purchase you'll be helping a charity of your choice.

SIGN UP HERE TO SEE THE LATEST AS IT HAPPENS

VFS visited David Longshaw at Harrods.

This last Saturday, David Longshaw did live illustration at Harrods, drawing journalist extraordinaire Maude in anything the customer were wearing. 

Everybody was caught in the excitement of being illustrated as the infamous editor of Maudezine, while making some Christmas shopping, at harrods´s way in floor. It suddenly became a must have for the season. 

Have a read to Maudezine here.

VFS suggestions for the weekend.

Can you feel it? it is the Christmas festive time coming closer and closer. At the VFS office we are chatty chatty organizing everything for this weekend. We thought about sharing with you some of our ideas for the first Weekend of December.


Friday night:
What about a night market in Dalston? we just heard of this, and we think it suits for our plans tonight ... Launching on Friday 25th November and running every Friday night until Christmas - it’s East London’s first ever night time food market. Friday nights in Dalston will never be the same again. Running from 6pm until midnight the Long Table will offer an impressive hand picked selection of London’s finest street food, a bar and music. 


Saturday: 
After spending the night around East, why not head West? Harrods, one of London´s most typical places to experience Christmas at the city. For the "Way in" Christmas event, David Longshaw will be in there drawing Maude in what ever customers have bought that day, 

from 10am - 8pm The event is taking place on Harrods Fourth Floor ‘Way In’ department.

Also Henry Holland will be serving on the tills, offering style advice as well as all sorts of other things going on including a chance to win a Harrods Hamper with one of David´s scarves in.

And last but not least our suggestion for Sunday: 
Why don´t you visit Boxpark? the world’s first pop-up mall!


BOXPARK strips and refits shipping containers to create unique, low cost, low risk, ‘box shops’. Put them together with a unique mix of international fashion, arts and lifestyle brands, galleries and cafés and you’ve got the world’s first ‘pop-up’ mall – so named because its basic building blocks are inherently movable: they can, and will, literally pop up anywhere in the world!

So grab some friends, and come to Shoreditch to enjoy this new and exciting initiative!

Three different plans including a bit of fashion, food, shopping and the first pop-up mall! 

Enjoy your weekend! 

VFS at the British Fashion Awards

The British Fashion Awards night about to begin. 

Victoria Beckham announced as winner by Marc Jacobs

On Monday night the VFS team donned our Georgia Hardinge dresses and Baartmans and Siegel suits and headed down to The British Fashion Awards to show our support for British Fashion. 


Each year the British Fashion Awards celebrates their creativity and success. British designers and creatives are renowned for their ability to set the global fashion agenda. 

Established in 1989, the British Fashion Awards was born from the British Fashion Council’s then five-year-old Designer of the Year Award. For more than 20 years, the British Fashion Awards has been celebrating the contributions of British designers, creatives and models to the international fashion scene.

The British Fashion Awards begins with a drinks reception followed by dinner and then the awards ceremony itself. For 2011, the Awards took place on Monday 28th November at the Savoy Hotel 

What a night! at the reception we had the chance to catch up with some of our Selection Panel judges, Susie Lau, Marios Schawb, David Koma, Jessica Bumpus, and so other friends Including the nice girls from Fashion Monitor, Hillary Alexander... some champagne and nibbles to share a night where all the key industry people was celebrating British Fashion.


The gala after the reception was a night full of surprises and big big announcement as big as the presenters, winners and guests. 


From our studio we congratulate Christopher Raeburn, and Mary Katrantzou. Being awarded as Emerging talent, in the Menswear and Womenswear categories. 


Have a look to the whole list of winners including: Sarah Burton as Designer of the Year,  Christopher Kane as new Establishment Award, introduced this year to recognise a particular movement in British fashion that is taking the industry by storm.  The inaugural winner is Christopher Kane whose visionary designs for his own label continue to lead trends globally, become must haves for any fashion credible shoot and essentials for all fashion collectors.  


Also, Paul Smith who was recognized as  Outstanding Achievement in Fashion, Victoria Beckham awarded as Designer Brand and Alexa Chung as British Style among others.


Congratulations to all of them and it was a pleasure to share the night with all of you, celebrating and supporting British Fashion. 

VFS is moving to a new office tomorrow!

Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Selection Panel

Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Selection Panel took place yesterday with a stellar line-up of judges, including stylists Katy England & Rebekah Roy, Holly Shackleton Editor of i-D, vogue.com's Jessica Bumpus, Susie Lau of Style Bubble, Marios Schwab, Felder Felder, David Koma, Hannah Emslie of Selfridges, Zara Martin - Ambassador for Village Bicycle, and Vauxhall Fashion Scout's very own Director, Martyn Roberts and Talent Scout, Charlotte Gunstone. 

The Selection Panel came together to decide the winner of the internationally acclaimed Merit Award, previously won by William Tempest, David Koma, Hermione de Paula, Eudon Choi, Georgia Hardinge and Leutton Postle. 

Judging also took place for collaborative showcase Ones To Watch and Ones To Watch MEN which has previously seen the likes of David Longshaw, Dean Quinn, Kirsty Ward, Tze Goh, T.Lipop, Asger Juel Larsen and Baartmans and Seigel make their catwalk debut at LFW. 

The afternoon was spent debating the award winners for London Fashion Week AW12/13 and the winners will be announced exclusively with Vogue.com. 

Watch this space!

Carmen : A Life in Fashion

Normally associated as being a hub of emerging fashion talent, the internationally-renowned London College of Fashion has adopted a rather different trend for winter; yesterday unveiling their celebratory homage to a timeless icon in the fashion industry.  

Carmen Dell’Orefice, for those who have been living under a fashion-repelling rock, is to the modelling industry, what couture is to Paris – completely necessary.  After making her Vogue debut in 1947, aged 15, Carmen’s elegance and regal beauty has since become a resounding icon of the fashion industry.

Vogue (October Issue) 1947

The exhibition, situated in the Fashion|Space|Gallery at London College of Fashion’s site on John Prince’s Street, showcased a beautiful collection that combined famous shoots – by the likes of Norman Parkinson and Gleb Derujinsky – with an intimate selection of photographs that offer visitors a glimpse into the private life of a legend.

Carmen, by Norman Parkinson, 1959 

On the books of some of the most respected modelling agencies in the world, going into her 80’s, Carmen’s career as a model is as successful as ever; continuing to epitomise the eternal glamour behind an ever-changing industry. 

Carmen: A Life in Fashion will be at the Fashion|Space|Gallery at the London College of Fashion site on John Prince’s Street, until 14^th January 2012.

Abigail Gurney-Read 

David Longshaw is on Vogue.com’s Christmas Wish List.

So, it’s that time of the year! Tis the season to be jolly and all that. Tis also the season to spend a lot of money on loved ones, and perhaps receive a few presents (good and bad) yourself. If you want to take a leaf out of Vogue.com’s book, then we suggest writing a very extensive, and very specific christmas wish list. It doesn’t have to take the excitement out of the surprises, it just takes the effort of having to possibly return or exchange a few unwanted gifts! On the list is our Ones To Watch winner David Longshaw’s illustrated scarf, available from Harrods. Absolutely exquisite, it's perfect for any fashion lover who wants to receive a little bit of talent. The perfect way to say I love you this christmas! To see what else Vogue has asked Santa for, click here. 

Sarah Potter- Editor

Fyodor Golan bought by Harvey Nichols

The fashion brand Fyodor Golan has had it’s spring/summer 2012 snapped up by none other than the prestigious Harvey Nichols. Their collection, which included block colouring and beautifully obscure silhouettes was praised very highly by the head of womenswear buying at Harvey Nichol’s, April Glassborow in which she states she was ‘very impressed by their direction and development’. 

The collection is set very much in the luxury department and Glassborow revealed her insight in the brand, in that it ‘will readily fit the profile of our First Floor international customer’.

Sarah Potter- Editor

VFS Illustrator Andy Bumpus at Vogue.Com

You will recognize his work by his faceless illustration with the only appearance of his signature tiny sexy red lips.

Andy Bumpus, our Fashion Week illustrator extraordinaire, just published his illustration from SS12 Fashion Week at Vogue.com, including some of his illustration from Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows.

Have a look to all of them here.

VFS Mentoring Event Review- Production

Guest speakers;

Burack Cakmak: Head of Sustainable Production, Gucci Group Ltd.

With over thirteen years business experience, Burack is currently the Director of Corporate Sustainability at Gucci Group. He is responsible for the implementation of sustainable production, working to develop initiatives for business ethics, human rights and environmental stewardship.

Paul Williams: Business Counsellor for East London Small Business Centre

With an extensive history in garment manufacturing, Paul became Managing Director for the design and manufacturing of Next, Debenhams and House of Fraser, running three factories simultaneously. Paul then spent two years as a consultant, auditing and setting up factories in China and Turkey for various clients before becoming an advisor at ELSBC. ELSBC is an agency designed to provide financial and business advice and support to start up fashion labels in the UK. 

Burhan Bilici: Managing Director De´ Atelier Ltd/Sourgrape

With a family background in manufacturing, Burhan has 15 years experience in the production business, having worked for companies including Karen Millen, Whistles and All Saints. Burack now runs his own production company with a portfolio that includes Hussein Chalayan, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll, Roland Mouret, Eudon Choi & House of Holland.

Finding the right factory

• You can start on-line with a basic search and email the ones you are interested in 
• Go to an area where there are many factories and visit them all until you find the right one
• Talk to others and share your experiences. You must all work together as the next generation of designers. You do not have to share confidential information but working together will give you more leverage to influence behaviour.
• Look at other brands the factories work for. Are these brands in-line with yours?
• When they have made your sample, this should be an indicator of the quality of your production orders.

Manufacturing Abroad

• Don't have to go abroad for manufacturing. More and more units are opening up in the UK - not just in London but also in the Midlands and North of England
• When you are starting out, it is a good idea to have things manufactured in the UK because you can keep a close eye on it. It's when the orders grow and you need to start considering price that you might consider manufacturing abroad
• It completely depends on your designs where you might choose to go. You might consider Italy, Portugal, Turkey, The Eastern Block (in particular Bulgaria and Lithuania) or you may have to go even further if you need specific skills e.g. handwork to India or Morocco for leather
• You don't have to stick to one location. As you grow, you may consider different location

'Made in Britain' label

• Items can be labelled, 'Made in Britain' if a certain percentage of the garment was made in Britain
• If you buy fabric and bring it into EU and pay the duty, it becomes European
• You don't have to put country of origin on garment labels within the EU, however, this is a requirement for the US

Custom Information

• You can ring them and find out, they are very helpful

UK Based Production

• There is a big market for UK production, not just new designers but also bigger designers
• Designers like the 'Made in Britain' label
• More retailers would like to come to the UK to reduce the carbon footprint
• There isn't enough manufacturing in the UK to be able to cater for the demand but more manufacturers are now starting to think its worth it to open up small factories

Questions to ask a factory initially 

• The capacity of the factory
• What their availability is
• When their quiet periods are - when it will be best time to place your orders
• What interests them in taking on your goods
• Their lead times
• Prices - they should have set prices
• Terms of Business - set these out in the beginning. Ask questions like, "What if you are late with production?". Cover all possible situations so you know where you stand if problems arise.
• Ask what their sample mark-up rate is

The Factory/Designer Relationship

• A factory is only as good as its designers
• Make sure you go there with absolutely all the information you need. It has to be very clear. Organisation is key
• Have the sample with you, technical drawings, size charts, information on how to make, patterns. You have to make sure your patterns are correct
• Any inaccuracy will hinder your production. You need to make sure all elements are covered early on 
• You've worked on the sample and should know where the complications lie so if you know something might be tricky in production, make them aware
• Make sure they can understand your handwriting
• If you need to supply threading, beads, zips, they all have to be there. If anything is missing, it will stop production
• If your factory is abroad, you have to be even more careful that everything is there. Have a line sheet and triple-check everything
• Everything has to be available at the same time. Once the factory cuts the garment, they will want to finish it. They have targets to reach themselves. If you have things missing, the relationship breaks down

Production Orders and Samples

• Factories do samples for the shows so they are familiar with the product and can give designers a price for production
• Sampling costs a lot more than production does. There are separate prices for samples and orders
• Don't just turn up with a sample and ask how much it would be to produce
• You should see the factory's ability to create a high quality garment before placing a full order
• It's unrealistic to ask a factory to sample every item in a collection

Overseeing Production

• Go in while they are making your products especially when they are on the machines
• You know the product better than anyone else so you should physically be there overseeing that
• All factories should allow this
• You can give them comment sheets on what you expect
• You can oversee from samples to full orders

Pricing

• Garment must be made in a cost-effective way
• Without changing the design, you can look at how it's made
• Ask the factory for advice on ways to reduce the costs
• It is the style which will determine pricing - some styles are just not productive
• After 50 pieces, you should be able to ask for a discount in the UK
• Abroad, it might be over a 1000

Cutting

• Factories prefer to cut themselves
• If you cut it or you've outsourced the cutting and something goes wrong at the factory stage, easy for them to blame it on the cut

What to do if your sample was perfect but your production order wasn't

• If you were there while it was being made, you could avoid this
• Shouldn't be any different if they made sample perfectly
• Tell them it's not how you wanted it. You will then have to negotiate
• It is very difficult to try and get anything back if they do get it wrong
• Avoid mistakes by regular visits and building relationships

Terms of Agreement

• Some factories won't sign contracts, depends on the establishment but you can have terms of agreement
• Terms of Agreement can be through e-mail provided you get a response
• As an incentive, you could offer to pay an extra percentage if they finish your order early

Payment Terms

• You can have stipulations in your terms of agreement that will give terms of payment
• Each factory has their own payment terms and you will have to negotiate these
• You should aim to be able to QC your garments first without handing over any money in the UK. This is more difficult when manufacturing abroad - you will have to pay 30-40% upfront. You can then QC the garments before handing the rest over
• It is important to pay something to be ethical/sustainable and cover some of the factory's costs such as wages

Production Loans from 

• Available from East London Small Business Centre
• If you get an order from a reputable stockist, you can apply for a loan. If approved, they will fund fabric and production costs until you get paid
• This is usually over a 3-4 month period with interest at 5%-7%
• If you've paid this back on time, there is the option of coming back the following season for another loan

Minimum and Maximum Orders

• In the UK, 10-20 garments, Europe 50-100 garments, China 250 garments
• Minimums are coming down in Europe
• Items that require handwork are lower
• If it is less than 10, sample prices will be charged
• With samples, possible to get just one done only if you book in advance

Re-orders

• Factories like to forecast 3-4 months ahead but book out 80-90% of capacity with 10% left to cater for additional work and re-orders
• Only small re-orders

Timing

• Build yourself a critical path and follow it
• You are a business so keep in touch with the factory and oversee the production to make sure it is being done on time
• Factory will be eager to meet deadlines because they have factored in other production also

Sustainable Production

• Looking at the impact you are having when creating a product and be considerate every step of the way. Make sure you are not putting future generations needs in jepordy. You have to be considerate of how much you are using, what type of materials you are using 
• Put in your Terms of Agreement that you expect minimum wage to be paid and standards to be followed
• Find out who exactly is making your product so everything is traceable

• Consider how much processing goes into the design, where you are producing, where you transport from
• Consider using local services to help sustain and create jobs

Production Agents

• These aren't a good idea when starting out
• Bigger companies use them especially when manufacturing abroad
• They will impact on your cash
• You should learn to do things yourself so you experience everything from design up to sales

Sarah Goodwin