Belgrade Fashion Week: Review

Belgrave Fashion Week is an organisation that strives to present collections with the unique balance of both commercial and artistic fashion. Collaborating with Belgrave Fashion Week, Fashion Scout presents Ana Ljubinkovic, Ivana Pilkja, George Styler, Budislava Kekovic and Vlada Savic, five of Belgrave’s hottest names.

Image: Oda Eide

Ana Ljubinkovic’s SS16 collection is an explosion of contradictory ideas. The garments combine the vintage cross stitch patterns with futuristic metal textures and structures to represent ‘the clash between naive innocence and experience’. The theatrical look was completed with kitsch woodland creatures, nested in the model’s crimped hair and faces covered in gold glitter. 

Design: Ana Ljubinkovic, Image: Oda Eide

With ‘Sports-Luxe’ featuring so heavily this London Fashion Week, it’s no surprise that the trend has gone international. Vlada Savic’s collection featured a primary colour palette of blues, yellows and reds across a clean cut set of dresses, culottes and smock tops.

Design: Vlada Savic, Image: Oda Eide

Inspired by simplistic form and the complexity of the underwater world, Budislava’s SS16 collection featured clean, cubistic cuts and a monochrome palette. Draped, sheer leggings contrasted the rigid structure of the garments and the solid plastic masks.

Design: Budislava, Image: Maja Jankowska

Stylist to many VIPs and fashion forward folk, George Styler exhibited his fun knitwear turned sportswear collection. Using floral designs and knitted fabrics to create bodysuits and bomber jackets, Styler found the perfect clash of technique and style. 

Design: George Styler, Image: Oda Eide

Returning to the theatrics, Ivana Pilja presented her dramatic, avant-garde collection which used monochromatic, kaleidoscope patterns and bizarre silhouettes.  Influenced by Japanese fashion and origami, the collection also felt animal inspired as the fabric was manipulated to resemble feathers and armadillo style pleats.

Design: Ivana Pilja, Image: Oda Eide

Incorporating international talent at Fashion Scout, Belgrade Fashion Week brought their innovative and unique style to the London catwalk. As the designers took their final bow, we, at Fashion Scout were delighted to introduce Belgrade Fashion Week to London.

Words: Alexandra Craft (@alexandrasaidso)

Images: Oda Beide and Maya Jankowska
Editor: Fiona Nicholls

SS16 Trends from Niro Wang and Apu Jan

Apu Jan’s collection alluded to key fashions of the 60’s with her use of high collars and slashed necklines, whilst keeping her to her uniform of chic shapes and clean cuts.

The final walk for @apujan #FashionScout #LFW #ss16 #ApuJan

A video posted by Fashion Scout (@fashionscoutlondon) on Sep 20, 2015 at 3:58am PDT

Graphic prints were a key element for both Apu Jan and Niro Wang. Where Jan showcased turquoise florals, candy pinks and all over brights, Wang presented us with stories of field workers, tools in cerulean blue, neon oranges and mustard yellows.

Linen was also flaunted in both designers’ Spring Summer looks. We saw black linen tailored trouser suits with inverted lapels at Apu Jan -masculine in shape and style, but soft and feminine in texture. Wang exhibited oversized white jumpsuits complete with drawstring waists.

Fine knits were incorporated into Niro Wang's collection, while Apu Jan flaunted her complex use of chunky knits and use of differing techniques, such as wide slip stitch, eyelet herringbone and jumbo cable.

What were your favourite elements of each designers collections? 

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our instagram, and twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Writer: Paris Richardson (@jemappelleparis) 
Images: Stefania Porcu (@stefaniaporcuphoto)
Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

The Swedish School of Textiles Part 2

Yesterday the talented BA and MA graduates from the Swedish School of Textiles showcased their debut collections. Presenting an array of styles, each individual designer showed both technical skill and aesthetic creativity.

Designer: Linus Broden

Linus Broden explored the body-fabric relationship through hand painted abstract prints with futuristic tribal undertones. The regal silhouettes paired a space age soundtrack gave the impression of a parade of other worldly royalty.

Designer: Jeanet Roerholts

Jeanet Roerholt's SS16 collection 'Smocked' representative of the collection title used smocking to show the possibilities gathered material. Her romantic gothic looks were finished with exposed stitching and shimmery metallics.

Designer: John-Daniels Isacsson

John-Danial Isacsson's 'Disruptive Mayhem' exhibited camouflage outerwear with exaggerated quilting. The oversized puffa jackets ranged from traditional khaki to a fiery neon orange.

Designer: Maria Eurenius

Maria Eurenius' voluptuous 'Inverted Dart' collection saw innovative silhouettes created by cutting and bonding soft, metallic fabrics and displacing them on the body.

Designer: Camilla Araburts

Camilla Araburt's 'Surface Print' explored the relationship between texture and bold monochrome graphic prints. Traditional checked fabrics were softened through shredded tassels and billowing check capes.

Designer: Emma Lindqvist

Emma Lindqvist's 'H(OO)D' presented a modern street wear collection using typography to display the notion that ''We express who we are by making our bodies readable''. Her oversized monochrome pieces were offset with neon orange accents.

Designer: Halla Hakonardottir

Halla Hakonardottir's 'The role of the Hole' used plastic boards and white and sheer, draped plastics to explore the relationship of clothes and the body. The models wore black bodystockings to emphasise the space between body and garment.

Designer: Saina Koohnavard

Saina Koohnavard's playful 'Made You Look' collection used sheets of semi sheer fabric overlayed with pattern sections to create an optical illusion. The multitude of layers created the illusion of translucent garments.

Designer: Daniel Bendzovski

Daniel Bendzovski's 'Trend Sandwich' exhibited a fusion of inspirations creating a sensory overload parodying the ever changing seasonal fashion trends.

Designer: Kairi Lentsius

Kairi Lentsius used laser cutting to create curved garments for her 'Cut In' collection. Her earthy colours gave a organic feel to her formal garments.

Designer: Sara Berg

Sara Berg's 'OMG(s)!' explored the spiritual potential of modern fashion creating a religion based around digital culture. Her emoji faced sequinned shrouds were paired with pop art white gloves.

Words : Elizabeth Renfrey (@erenfrey)
Images: Stefania Porcu (@stephaniaporcuphoto)
Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

SS16 Trends Overview!

We are now approaching the end of Day 2 Spring Summer 2016, here's some of the trends we're spotting. What do you think the best trends of SS16 are? 

We've seen an onslaught of bright colours in Angel Chen, Typical freaks and Leaf Xia. Reds, oranges and blues taking centre stage. Although this doesn’t mean you need to discredit those earthy tones and minimalistic neutrals, as designers James Kelly and Pam Hogg showed us.

Angel Chen

Leaf Xia

Fringing seems to be everywhere this season, and Anita Hirlekar certainly put it to use. Many of her garments were encased in long tassled material, putting a spring in every models step. Once again Pam Hogg demonstrated some killer fringed action especially in her western rose gold number.

Pam Hogg

Swedish School of Textiles BA graduate Josefin Runquist’s gave us the power of pleats, and we can’t remember why we don’t wear them on a regular basis... Pleats will certainly feature heavily next season.

Josefin Runquist

Volume has got to be one of the biggest trends we have spotted thus far. From James Kelly’s feather like moss, which snaked and draped across his garments, to Roberts|Wood's white puffball creations. Even John Daniel Isacsson presented quilted camouflage jackets like we’ve never seen before.

Katie Roberts Wood

John Daniel Isacsson

Bare skin and nudity have also played an important part over the last two days. Whether it be through peekaboo cut outs or sheer organza fabrics as seen at Judy Wu and Alva Johansson, showing flesh has definitely had firm footing on the catwalk. 

Alva Johansson

Judy Wu

Fashion Scout for London Fashion week runs from 18th - 22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall, WC2B 5AZ.

Remember to follow our instagram, and twitter to see the shows as they happen, and to use the hashtag #FashionScout. 

Writer: Paris Richardson (@jemappelleparis) 
Photographers: Maja Jankowska (@babypolsky) and Stefania Porcu (@stefaniaporcuphoto)  

Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

SS16 James Kelly: A Laura Palmer Love Affair

As the Vestibule catwalk filled to the brim, there was a hum of excitement and curiosity, it was already clear that James Kelly’s SS16 collection is going to be a highlight of this London Fashion Week. 

The catwalk was surrounded by imposing sheets of white plastic, transforming the catwalk into a cordoned off space, reminiscent of a crime scene. These sheets sliced the room in half, leaving all those seated toward the far end of the catwalk anticipating the garments as gasps were heard on the other side of the plastic. The ominous Twin Peak's theme tune scored this collection's debut, along with snippets of eerie dialog from the TV series.

With his established signature palette, which James describes as ‘rich, sludgier colours’, this collection continues with the earthy: natural greens, stones, khakis and charcoals featured, accentuated by moss embroidery and appliqué. Sheer, nude fabrics evoked a ‘second skin’  on the models. Utility style was also a dominant trend, with army boots covered in moss and clean cut straight-jackets reclaimed by lichen and rich green downy textiles. Several of the garments exhibited bandage-like restriction, contourting the models bodies and giving an impression of injury or contained madness. The hair was styled wet and loose, complimented by Body Shop’s watery make up of gold and red eyeshadow- the models looks drowned (in the best way possible), evoking the image of John Everett Millais's 'Ophelia', and of course Lynch's 'Laura Palmer'. 

Speaking to James after the event he confirmed our suspicions, naming David Lynch as one of his biggest inspirations. ‘The collection comes from the progression of women in film and photography,’ he explained, referencing Laura Palmer (the centre of David Lynch’s Twin Peaks series) as a part of his main concept. James was rendered speechless after the show, and as he was whisked away to speak to proud parents, so were we.

Astonishing talent graced the catwalk this afternoon at Fashion Scout and we cannot wait to see what the future holds for James Kelly, or more appropriately, what he holds for the future.

Fashion Scout for London Fashion Week runs from 18th-22nd September 2015 at the Freemasons’ Hall, WC2B 5AZ

#FashionScout

Words: Alexandra Craft  + Fiona Nicholls 

Photographers: Maja Jankowska and Stefania Porcu 
Editor: Fiona Nicholls