EXCLUSIVE| Inbar Spector Interview

Hi Inbar, thanks for taking the time to talk to Vauxhall Fashion Scout. 

We saw a head-to-toe Autumn/Winter look on Nicole Scherzinger last Saturday evening- how does it feel to know your work was being exposed that night to an audience of over 8.6 million people?

It was a great feeling. I didn't know that it was going to be on TV, so I completely forgot about it and planned a relaxed Saturday night in bed... Out of the blue Twitter went mad with friends telling me about it. It was such a nice surprise!

Your work is often seen on female stars with a strength of character and voice- Paloma Faith, known for her strong voice, and individuality; Nicole Scherzinger, thought of as a powerful, and independent woman; and Florench Welch, whose stage presence is unrivalled- how does it make you feel to see such a diverse group of women wear your clothes, despite their differing styles?

I think you described it very well. The commonality between these artists ladies is that all of them are beautiful and strong; they all have their individual style, and each of them decide themselves what they want to wear- the stylists recommend but the stars are making the decision. A woman doesn't need to be masculine to be strong, she can still be beautiful, sexy, and strong all at the same time. 

What is it about your work that you think attracts these strong, beautiful women? Do you feel proud as a designer knowing these women choose to wear your pieces for occasions when it's important to feel good, strong, and comfortable in their own skin?

It's always nice to listen to an artist in the studio, and to know that in few months from now she might preform in the outfit you're making her.

I think that if you don't feel good in your own skin, you won't like my style. My style is for very confident women; brave [and not] scared to look different. My costumers are usually the women who set the trends, not the ones who follow them.

How do feel having had the opportunity to showcase Autumn/ Winter with VFS- do you think it's contributed to these women's awareness of your pieces?

I believe that London and the international fashion industry is very aware with what is going at VFS. After shows people often tell me how much they love the venue, and how it complemented the atmosphere of the show.

The VFS team is very professional and the venue is beautiful. All the editors and stylists want to find new emerging talent, and everybody knows that VFS finds the talent. I think VFS is one of those few places you can spot [the] new talents that are forcing a change.

Interview by Sara McAlpine
Images from Vogue, Inbar Spector and VFS

NEWS| Burhan Bilici Joins VFS Production Mentoring Event

Joining our established line up of guest judges on Monday evening, VFS are delighted to announce the addition of Burhan Bilici, Managing Director of De’Atelier Ltd & Sourgrape.

Kicking off on the topic of Production, Pricing & International Exports, the event is designed to provide much needed information in advance of the close of the SS13 season and to prepare new strategies for AW13/14. 

With a family background in manufacturing, Burhan has 15 years experience in the production business, having worked for companies including Karen Millen, Whistles and All Saints. Burhan now runs his own production company with a portfolio that includes Hussein Chalayan, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll, Roland Mouret, Eudon Choi & House of Holland.

Our panel of seasoned professionals will explore the issues involved in taking designs to production, advice on sourcing the best manufacturer either locally or overseas, how to optimise relationships with production units, communicating with retailers on costing, payments and delivery, quality control and how to maximise international exports. 

Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Mentoring Events are made possible by the Mayor of London’s London Fashion Showcasing Fund.

GUEST SPEAKERS ALSO INCLUDE:

Paul Alger: Director of International Affairs for UKFT

Paul Williams: Business Counsellor for East London Small Business Centre

The event takes place on Monday 22nd October from 7pm - 8.30pm. To RSVP for the event and for more information please contact: press@fsi-events.com 

We look forward to seeing you there!

NEWS| Helen Bullock launches 'H by Helen Bullock' with Anthropologie

Print based designer Helen Bullock is to launch 'h by helen bullock' with Anthropologie. From November, the Central Saint Martin's fashion print BA and textiles for fashion MA graduate is to be stocked in both the UK and the USA. Having previously exhibited with VFS for two seasons, Bullocks designs are colourful and textured, making for a unique and distinct aesthetic.

Using fabrics as her individual canvases, the designer has gained experience under John Galliano and produced garments that have filled the wardrobe of Julie Verhoeven. With Anthropologie describing the range as “a very modern and exciting interpretation of colour and print,” with “artistic and playful dresses that make a strong statement while also expressing femininity,” we look forward to what the collection will bring.

'h by helen bullock' will be available from Anthropologie in the UK from November 2012.

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Images - Exclusive Anthropologie Sketches by Helen Bullock

NEWS| Martyn Roberts joins David Koma, Jean Pierre Braganza & Anna October at Kiev Fashion Days

Mercedes Benz Kiev Fashion Days returns for its second season with a much coveted line up of events and Fashion Scout Director, Martyn Roberts, will be there to support the next generation of international design talent. 

From 25th - 28th October, fifteen designers will show their SS13 collections in Ukraine to a host of global media and buyers and the impressive line up will include collections from current VFS talent, Anna October, and VFS alumni, David Koma and Lako Bukia. 

Alongside catwalk shows and presentations, Kiev Fashion Days introduces 'Fashion Now' lectures to provide industry advice to both emerging and established designers alike. As part of the Fashion Now series of events and seminars, Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Martyn Roberts will join Yvan Rodic, Vogue.it, NJAL, AnOther Mag, L'Eclaireur and Vogue Russia with an exclusive talk on the topic of setting up and building a fashion business. 

Ahead of Martyn's talk on 28th October, Kiev Fashion Days catch up with the VFS Director here...

Do you follow the situation on Ukrainian fashion market/ fashion market of Eastern Europe? Where do you see its strong and weak sides?Ukranian fashion is new to London but designers such as Anna October and Ekaterina Kukhareva are showing us that there is new exciting talent emerging.

Do you usually attend local fashion weeks? What are you exactly looking for beyond the borders of world fashion capitals?I always discover amazing new designers when I travel to different fashion weeks. I am looking for something new and fresh - a different way of looking at fashion.

Are you interested in collaboration with Ukrainian designers and local industry professionals?Most definitely. The fact that MBFD is inviting designers and industry leaders to Kiev is opening up new markets and enabling Ukrainian designers and brands to get international exposure and experience.

Keep up to date with the latest news, schedules and events direct from Kiev Fashion Days here.

ANNOUNCEMENT| New Season Mentoring Events- Production, Pricing & Exports

Vauxhall Fashion Scout is launching its new season series of Mentoring Events in partnership with Beach Blanket Babylon.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout is London’s leading showcase for fashion innovation and is internationally recognised as home of new talent. Actively working to promote and develop the next generation of designers, Vauxhall Fashion Scout is responsible for launching some of the brightest new design talents.

Now entering our fourth year, the first in our new series of Mentoring Events will take place on Monday 22^nd October. Kicking off on the topic of Production, Pricing & International Exports, the event is designed to provide much needed information in advance of the close of the SS13 season and to prepare new strategies for AW13/14.

Our panel of seasoned professionals will explore the issues involved in taking designs to production, advice on sourcing the best manufacturer either locally or overseas, how to optimise relationships with production units, communicating with retailers on costing, payments and delivery, quality control and how to maximise international exports.

Speakers:

Paul Alger: Director of International Affairs

Paul graduated with BA Hons in Modern Languages with Politics and Economics in 1986 and after a period living overseas and working in food marketing and sales, has spent the majority of his working life helping UK fashion and accessories companies to exports. Paul speaks fluent French, Italian and Russian and has a good working knowledge of several other languages including Japanese, Spanish and German. He has organised and headed up missions to Japan, Russia, South Korea, Hong Kong and  the USA  as well as working extensively with trade shows throughout Europe.

Paul Williams: Business Counsellor for East London Small Business Centre

With an extensive history in garment manufacturing, Paul became Managing Director for the design and manufacturing of Next, Debenhams and House of Fraser, running three factories simultaneously. Paul spent two years as a consultant, auditing and setting up factories in China and Turkey for various clients before becoming an advisor at ELSBC. ELSBC is an agency designed to provide financial and business advice and support to start-up fashion labels in the UK. 

Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Mentoring Events are made possible by the Mayor of London’s London Fashion Showcasing Fund.

Monday 22nd October 2012

7pm – 8.30pm

Beach Blanket Babylon

Places strictly limited. RSVP essential to secure place: press@fsi-events.com

NEWS| Fashion156 Creative's candid shots from OTW and Graduate Showcase S/S13

Fashion156 Creative, the spin-off creative arts agency from the acclaimed Fashion156, have released a set of backstage photographs from Vauxhall Fashion Scout's S/S13 Ones to Watch catwalk show as well as our Graduate Showcase. 

Katy Davies's candid photographs of the models and garments of our Ones to Watch stars portray the designs seconds before hitting the runway. Katy's photographs can be viewed on Fashion 156 Creative's website here. 

Fashion156 director Guy Hipwell joined forces with VFS to curate the Graduate Showcase space for our S/S13 showcase and Fashion156 Creative have released their own snaps of the presentation. 

The VFS Blog Team caught up with Guy prior to LFW S/S13 where he likened the similarities between Fashion156 and our Graduate Showcase event: 

"It just mirrors exactly the ethos and reasons I set up Fashion156 - to support the strong talent coming through our fashion schools each and every year. Graduates need all the support possible, especially with the current challenging economic climate."

By Cass Gowing, Editor

Images from Fashion156 Creative

NEWS| Kirsty Ward featured in Vogue Italia 'Talents' piece

Having been named the Rising Star of 2011 by Elle and a Designer to Watch by Vogue, it's no wonder our previous One to Watch Kirsty Ward is a designer who's become well accustomed to press attention. Having just exhibited her S/S13 collection in our Paris showrooms, it's something that's sure to continue. Most recently, it's been Glass magazine, Crack magazine and Vogue Italia that she's caught the eye of.

In 'A moment with Kirsty Ward', Glass talked to the Central Saint Martin's graduate about her inspirations, VFS and the future. “Inspiration can come from anywhere,” she says during the interview. “I especially love the elderly... I also watch a lot of sci-fi and that always creeps in.”

Crack magazine have also recently featured her work. One of Ward's AW12 necklaces has appeared in an editorial of the monthly art and music magazine's latest issue and perfectly presents the structured aesthetic the designer has become known for.

If that wasn't enough, Vogue Italia have also featured Ward's AW12 collection in their talent section. With a biography and a display of her powerfully innovative and embellished designs, it's safe to say Kirsty Ward is certainly making a name for herself.

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Images all taken from each publication named.

NEWS| Emma Shipley in IDOL magazine

Following her recent collaboration with IDOL magazine, luxury scarf designer Emma Shipley talks to the magazine about London Fashion Week and her SS13 collection. The Vauxhall Fashion Scout designer gives IDOL magazine an insight into her world of illustrated exotic animals and the inspiration behind her work.

The magazine commented on her fascinating use of a “half imagined and half real” jungle paradise. The young designer reflects on her trip to the Amazon which brought on inspiration for colours and the exotic atmosphere that runs through the collection. Commenting on her Anthropologie wallpaper launch, Emma Shipley catches up with IDOL on her Premiere Classe award for new accessory designer that she says “gave me a lot of exposure to international buyers”

As well as explaining her hand drawn pencil techniques and her recent collaboration with Tomasz Donocik, the accessories designer talks about working with interior designers where she can bring her own flair to items like wallpaper, rugs and furniture. She goes on explaining how important it is to find a style that is completely your own as advice for other young designers and illustrators.

On how much fun she had with IDOL magazine, Emma says she loved it and enjoyed the freedom of doing “just pure illustration for print” which she says is something she has never done before. “I loved how they ended up in the final images juxtaposed with the fashion shots, I thought it looked really great!”

Text by Vanessa Omoregie, images from IDOL magazine

NEWS| OTW designer Hellen Van Rees featured on BoF following Dazed Digital review

VFS's One to Watch Hellen van Rees has been mentioned on the front page of Business of Fashion following Dazed Digital's S/S13 review and interview. Read by creatives and entrepreneurs alike and with a worldwide following, the online platform is the first port of call for many in the industry. The designer has been included in one of the website's 'Daily Digests', with a quote from Dazed and Confused, who describe her work as a “wonderland of innovation – and success”. Having just recently showcased her pieces on the catwalk with VFS during London Fashion Week, the CSM graduate's experimentation with textiles, combined with her unique take on form and silhouette has definitely caught the eye of the fashion world.

Rise: Hellen Van Rees (Dazed Digital)

“Tweed may be an unlikely material of choice, but for Hellen Van Rees it represents a wonderland of innovation – and success. One season on from her Central Saint Martins graduate show, the designer last week triumphed in the hyped Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones To Watch.”

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Screen shots from BoF and Dazed Digital

NEWS| David Longshaw's Arthur and Francesca meet Helen Van Rees's climbing wall...

David Longshaw has well and truly brought a touch of humour to Vogue Italia with his latest comic strip. Including the work of our One to Watch Hellen Van Rees, the illustration plays on the statement and geometric work of the Central Saint Martin's graduate. Having displayed her S/S13 collection on the catwalk at our Freemason's Hall to positive reviews during London Fashion Week, the designer's garments have been described as many things. Here though, Arthur chooses “a terribly stylish climbing wall” as a fitting description. 

Having made a name for his illustrations already, Longshaw is the creator of the Maude character and is a previous VFS Ones to Watch winner. 

His latest comic strip can be viewed above or on Vogue Italia's website.

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Illustration by David Longshaw

NEWS| VFS designers nominated for The Hospital Club 100

Two Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers have been shortlisted for The Hospital Club and Time Out London's THC100 list.

The 100 list represents the best in innovative and unique talent. From Fashion to Theatre the list brings forward people who have made excellent achievements over the past 12 months in their field. Featuring emerging talent as well as the more established, the prestigious list looks at talent over status, money, or fame.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones To Watch Charlotte Simpson and Merit Award Winner Heohwan Simulation make the Fashion list amongst established designers including JW Anderson and Jonathan Saunders and esteemed stylist Rebekah Roy. With amazing careers between the two of them, Charlotte Simpson and Hwan Heo have gained fans for their stunning designs signature aesthetics. 

Graduating from London College of Fashion, Charlotte Simpson has worked with designers such as Julien Macdonald and been awarded the Zandra Rhodes Textiles Award. Winning the Umbro Sportswear Project is one of many achievements from designer and RCA graduate Hwan Heo whose S/S’13 collection wowed audiences at the Freemason’s Hall in September. Their skills and talents have shown potential and earned them their spot on The Hospital Club 100.

Special mentions also go to stylist Rebekah Roy, Nick Knight and VFS alumni designer Peter Pilotto who are also nominated. 

The shortlisted nominations are now open for voting until the 28^th of October and anyone can get involved and vote! The final 100 will be announced on the 12^th of November and featured in Time Out magazine, representing the future of Britain’s creative industries.

By Vanessa Omoregie. 

Image edited from Hospital Club's website

POSTCARD FROM PARIS| Timur Kim

Having displayed his S/S13 collection on our catwalk during the opening day of London Fashion Week as well as showcasing his line in our Exhibition Space for the duration of London Fashion Week - Timur Kim joined us in Paris to present his collection in our showroom as well. A graduate of BA Fashion Design and MA Fashion from Central Saint Martin's, the designer likes to approach his garments with a very fabric led aesthetic. Producing a collection filled with flowing dresses, stark denim and fluid silks, Vauxhall Fashion Scout took the time to talk to Kim on his latest pieces, the label and its inspiration.

How was your S/S13 catwalk show?

[It went] really well. I didn't expect as much exposure. The space was crowded, people were standing and the press were amazing, they really liked it.

What is fashion to you?

It's a clarity. You have an idea and a vision and you need to relate this vision to the market and the real person, to the women.

What inspired this collection?

There hasn't been a particular inspiration. It's basically what felt right and was a vision of my style. It's how I'd like to see my woman dress. It has long dresses, shirts, trousers. If I was a woman, it's what I'd want to wear.

Who is this woman?

It's a young woman who wants to be elegant but stay cool.

What's your background and does it influence your work?

I'm Russian born and then I moved to London at 17. I've been creating collections since I was 16 years old and graduated this February. My background has influenced me but I think being here in London has definitely shaped me more. It gives me this idea of clarity and how to balance things.

What are your plans for the future of the label?

I want to carry on. I need to get stockists and then move forward. I don't want to be this conceptual brand, with me it's more about the clothing.

Do you have any ideas for your next collection?

I do, but I'm not going to say anything about it! I like my corsets though, I want more corsets. I think I've found a good balance with my work. I like the unexpected combination between denim and full, beautiful dresses.

What's it been like working with VFS?

It's been really good. I got a place right in the early stages so I had a chance to build the collection, present everything and see the response from the press. They've done a really good job and it's come out really well so far.

Timur Kim's S/S13 collection is available to view at our Paris Showrooms today until 5pm, the final day of PFW. 

Interview and Images taken during LFW by Josh Walker and Lauren Marsh

NEWS| Tuesday - Final Day in the VFS Paris Showroom

What do Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony, IT, Beams, Selfridges, H.P. France, LVMH, RA, D-Mop, Saks 5th Ave, Joyce and many other leading boutiques and department stores have in common? They know that the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Showroom is the place to discover the best in new design talent during Paris Fashion Week. 

Tuesday 2nd October marks the final day in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Showroom for Spring/Summer 2013. Tomorrow will be your final chance to see the collections from a host of designers who have caught the attention of buyers from a range of prestigious stores. Pop along to the showroom to view the following designers for one final day:

Alice Lee

Anna October

Anne Sofie Madsen

Charlotte Simpson

David Longshaw

Ekaterina Kukhareva

Emma J Shipley

Eugene Lin

Hellen Van Rees

Heohwan Simulation

Ji Cheng

Kirsty Ward

Leutton Postle

MASC

Myrza de Muynck

Nova Chiu

Phoebe English

Raffaele Ascione

Shao Yen

Timur Kim

Yasmin Kianfar 

The showroom is located at 23 Rue de Roi de Sicile, 75004, and is open to buyers and members of the press. For more information or to RSVP email press@FSI-event.com

Can't make it to Paris? Stay tuned to the VFS blog as well as our Twitter page @FashionScout for full and exclusive updates. 

POSTCARD FROM PARIS| Shao Yen

Tawaiinese born yet London based designer Shao Yen returned to showcase his Spring/Summer 2013 collection exclusively with Vauxhall Fashion Scout at our Paris Showrooms. His sixth collection returns to some of the forms used in his masters collection whilst retaining the usage of mixed materials which his collections are recognised for. We caught up with Shao Yen Chen on the penultimate day of showcasing his S/S13 collection.

1. What has been the initial response been to your S/S 13 collection?
I chose to use quite strong and bright colour this season so that's what caught people's attention first as well as the interesting mixture of textures.

2. Is there a favourite piece/ look form the collection/ a look that you feel encapsulates your aesthetic?
The raffia sweatshirt top and pencil skirt reminds me of my MA collection. The look is much more wearable but the combination of fabrics is still interesting and playful.

3. What is the importance of showcasing your collection in Paris?
I aim to develop my brand and expand more stockists. It's a good opportunity to for me to meet buyers and press people as well as receiving feedback.

4. As a platform, what support has VFS provided you with this season that you are most grateful for?

VFS has always been very supportive and understands what young designers need. I really like the space this season.

5. What will you be doing in Paris, outside of VFS showroom-making the most of the surrounding city, or taking much deserved respite from the pace of recent weeks?
I don't have much opportunity to go out since I need to be in the showroom all day but I do enjoy walking from my flat to the showroom and looking at the people and shop windows along the way.

By Cass Gowing, Editor
Images taken from Fashion 156 Creative's Preview Shoot and Shao Yen's S/S13 lookbook

POSTCARD FROM PARIS| MASC

Design duo MASC revealed their Spring/Summer 2013 collection exclusively to Vauxhall Fashion Scout in our exhibition space during London Fashion Week and the designers have followed us to Paris to display their collection at our Paris Showrooms.

The design label, created by Duncan Shaw and Billy Yick is internationally recognised for their strong yet undeniably feminine silhouettes and edgy folding technique.

1. What has the initial response been to your S/S13 collection?

Excellent. We've had more buyers and press than ever before. Our directional silhouettes and rich textures have attracted a lot of attention. A highlight is being featured on Vogue Italia's website.

2.  Is there a favourite piece/ look from the collection that you feel encapsulates your aesthetic?

This season our multi -cultural coat-dress has really excelled for us. It features folding techniques, leather inserts and modular cutting. It encapsulates our signature

aesthetic and direction.

3. What is the importance of showcasing your collection in Paris?

Paris is the historical heart of fashion and sits late in the fashion week schedule. This is where real business happens and the best buyers and press attend. For MASC, Paris brings and audience who appreciate our chic minimalism and tailoring.

4. As a platform, what support has VFS provided you with this season that you are most grateful for?

A fantastic venue in a convenient and impressive location. Alongside the effective marketing the VFS team do their upmost to remain professional and proactive. Thank you VFS.

5. What will you be doing in Paris outside of the VFS showroom- making the most of the surrounding city, or taking much deserved respite from the pace of recent weeks?

Visiting other showrooms, meeting friends, sampling the food and getting rest! The parties cannot be missed in Paris too.

By Cass Gowing, Editor

Images from MASC’s S/S13 Lookbook

POSTCARD FROM PARIS| Anna October

Vauxhall Fashion Scout have an unrivalled platform for launching new talent and recent VFS addition, Anna October, is quickly developing a substantial following. As Anna joins us in Paris, we take a quick look at the inspiration behind her coveted new collection...

Please tell us about the inspiration and development behind the collection?
This season I was aiming to make a tribute to sky. A dreamy story about sophisticated, intelligent lady, with good manners, who loves art and the same time she is young and cool. It's the first time I used digital prints in my collection. The idea of prints is the view on sky through the digital bad render. This inspiration came to me through the photos made by broken phone camera and  bad internet connection which gives you bad pixelized image. But the same time I like how random and interesting could be the picture when it's destroyed- new colors and textures are appearing. All the printed art works were made in collaboration with artist Dina Lynnik. 

What has the initial response been to your SS13 collection during Paris Fashion Week?
I have already had a good response from buyers and press. They especially liked my digital prints which were created in collaboration with artist, Dina Lynnick.

Is there a favourite piece from the collection or a look which encapsulates your aesthetic?
My favourite piece would have to be a flat printed coat. It is minimalistic and elegant and shows my addiction to combining colours. 

What is the importance of of showcasing your collection in Paris?
It's my first season in Paris, so its very important to see the reaction from buyers and press and to place new orders.

As a platform, what support has VFS provided you with this season?
It has been an amazing experience to be part of the VFS Paris Showroom. I have learnt many new things about the processes involved in your first selling season in a showroom environment. 

What will you be doing in Paris outside of the VFS Paris Showroom?
Going to fashion shows during Paris Fashion Week and meeting with friends. Paris is also a great city for inspiration!

You can view Anna's full collection in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Paris Showroom until 2nd October 2012.