As part of a new feature, every Fashion Friday, the VFS blog team will interview an influential fashion individual. First up is Jessica Quillin, aclaimed author, writer, entrepreneur and all-round fashion favourite. She is currently working as the Chief Strategy Officer for Atelier 36 and the Managing Director of Quillin Consulting.
Your
company Atelier 36 continuously works with up and coming designers, can
you tell us about some of the campaigns you are currently working on?
At Atelier 36, my business partner, Krista
Peck, and I are really excited about several projects that we have ongoing. In
particular, we are thrilled about a campaign that we just launched for the
Young British Designers called YBD On Tour. This initiative is designed to introduce the Young British
Designers (YBD), which specializes in fashion created by UK emerging designers,
to the US market. We also are in the process of working with a
number of young designers on a variety of brand and marketing projects,
including dressmaker Yan To and jewellery brand Ruby Browning.
You
are an avid supporter of Vauxhall Fashion Scout – what do you think of us as a platform for
emerging designers?
I think that VFS is a highly effective
platform for emerging designers in the UK. Allowing young designers the
opportunity to showcase their talents through runway presentations,
exhibitions, and other events is an amazing way to introduce them to the
fashion industry. Ones to Watch is by far my favourite show at LFW because it
is such a powerful way to see the examples of the next generation of fashion
minds all at once.
What
do you think is the importance in placing such support for recent graduates and
first time designers?
I think that support for graduates and
young designers is critical because there are very few resources available for
them to develop their own point of view and showcase their talents. Funding is
an especially touchy thing for young designers, many of whom end up working for
larger fashion houses and may not ever have their own work see the light of day
in the industry itself.
VFS
has launched the careers of designing talents such as David Koma and Hermione
de Paula, which of our designers (from AW12) do you think is the next big
thing?
All of the VFS AW12 designers are amazing talents.
But, I really love Anne Sofie Madsen’s aesthetic. One is keenly aware of her
illustrator’s eye for detail when you observe the contours of her pieces. The
Primitivist approach of her SS12 collection was particularly powerful.
Living
in the US, do you get a chance to attend LFW? If so, what shows did you make
last season? If not, how do you follow the shows?
I usually do get the chance to attend both
the AW and SS shows for LFW. But, when I
cannot attend shows, I do like to follow them online as best I can via video.
This is what I did for SS2012 in September when I was unable to make it to
London due to the birth of my son.
Is
there a similar organisation to Fashion Scout in the US? If so, what could we learn from
them and vice-versa?
We have a number of large and small
organisations within the US that provide resources for emerging designers. The
CFDA, in particular, offers a number of scholarships and other support schemes
for young designers. Organisations like
StartUp Fashion also provide business resources and marketing support for young designers. I
think that these US organisations could learn a lot from the VFS example of
offering emerging designers catwalk and exhibition space during the main mêlée
of Fashion Weeks and in two locations. It gives these designers a sense of
industry legitimacy at the same time it provides a healthy dose of immediate
marketing that would benefit any designer.
UK fashion
industry professionals may find that there is a bevy of untapped resources in
smaller enterprises such as can be found in the US. Boutique firms can offer both
organisations and emerging designers more tailored services and one-on-one
attention at a fraction of the cost of larger firms. One of the things we at
Atelier 36 constantly tell the designers with whom we work is that there is a
lot of sense in going local for everything from fabric sourcing to production.
Interview by Editor Cass Gowing,
Follow her on Twitter @CassGowing
View Jessica's site: http://atelier-36.com/ and follow the YBD initiative on Tumblr and their Twitter account @YBDONTOUR.
Interview by Editor Cass Gowing,
Follow her on Twitter @CassGowing
View Jessica's site: http://atelier-36.com/ and follow the YBD initiative on Tumblr and their Twitter account @YBDONTOUR.