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Showing posts with label Mentoring Event. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mentoring Event. Show all posts

Thursday, 18 October 2012

NEWS| Burhan Bilici Joins VFS Production Mentoring Event


Joining our established line up of guest judges on Monday evening, VFS are delighted to announce the addition of Burhan Bilici, Managing Director of De’Atelier Ltd & Sourgrape.

Kicking off on the topic of Production, Pricing & International Exports, the event is designed to provide much needed information in advance of the close of the SS13 season and to prepare new strategies for AW13/14. 


With a family background in manufacturing, Burhan has 15 years experience in the production business, having worked for companies including Karen Millen, Whistles and All Saints. Burhan now runs his own production company with a portfolio that includes Hussein Chalayan, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll, Roland Mouret, Eudon Choi & House of Holland.



Our panel of seasoned professionals will explore the issues involved in taking designs to production, advice on sourcing the best manufacturer either locally or overseas, how to optimise relationships with production units, communicating with retailers on costing, payments and delivery, quality control and how to maximise international exports. 



Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Mentoring Events are made possible by the Mayor of London’s London Fashion Showcasing Fund.



GUEST SPEAKERS ALSO INCLUDE:

Paul Alger: Director of International Affairs for UKFT


Paul Williams: Business Counsellor for East London Small Business Centre



The event takes place on Monday 22nd October from 7pm - 8.30pm. To RSVP for the event and for more information please contact: press@fsi-events.com 


We look forward to seeing you there!

Tuesday, 16 October 2012

ANNOUNCEMENT| New Season Mentoring Events- Production, Pricing & Exports



Vauxhall Fashion Scout is launching its new season series of Mentoring Events in partnership with Beach Blanket Babylon.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout is London’s leading showcase for fashion innovation and is internationally recognised as home of new talent. Actively working to promote and develop the next generation of designers, Vauxhall Fashion Scout is responsible for launching some of the brightest new design talents.

Now entering our fourth year, the first in our new series of Mentoring Events will take place on Monday 22nd October. Kicking off on the topic of Production, Pricing & International Exports, the event is designed to provide much needed information in advance of the close of the SS13 season and to prepare new strategies for AW13/14.

Our panel of seasoned professionals will explore the issues involved in taking designs to production, advice on sourcing the best manufacturer either locally or overseas, how to optimise relationships with production units, communicating with retailers on costing, payments and delivery, quality control and how to maximise international exports.

Speakers:

Paul Alger: Director of International Affairs
Paul graduated with BA Hons in Modern Languages with Politics and Economics in 1986 and after a period living overseas and working in food marketing and sales, has spent the majority of his working life helping UK fashion and accessories companies to exports. Paul speaks fluent French, Italian and Russian and has a good working knowledge of several other languages including Japanese, Spanish and German. He has organised and headed up missions to Japan, Russia, South Korea, Hong Kong and  the USA  as well as working extensively with trade shows throughout Europe.

Paul Williams: Business Counsellor for East London Small Business Centre
With an extensive history in garment manufacturing, Paul became Managing Director for the design and manufacturing of Next, Debenhams and House of Fraser, running three factories simultaneously. Paul spent two years as a consultant, auditing and setting up factories in China and Turkey for various clients before becoming an advisor at ELSBC. ELSBC is an agency designed to provide financial and business advice and support to start-up fashion labels in the UK. 

Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Mentoring Events are made possible by the Mayor of London’s London Fashion Showcasing Fund.

Monday 22nd October 2012
7pm – 8.30pm
Beach Blanket Babylon

Places strictly limited. RSVP essential to secure place: press@fsi-events.com

Wednesday, 28 March 2012

MENTORING| Vauxhall Fashion Scout present a Sales Mentoring Event for new and emerging British Talent



Speakers: (L-R) Alison Chisholm, Matthew Watters & Erin Mullaney 






Vauxhall Fashion Scout are thrilled to be able to host Mentoring Events for emerging talent in British Design. Inviting some of the leading experts in the fashion industry, the events provide an insight into the industry through a blend of question and answer's from invited audience members and the panel of experts.

This Mentoring event saw Orla Kiely, Harvey Nichols and Avenue 32 venture to Beach Blanket Babylon in Shoreditch to talk to an audience of over 50 designers and new talents in the industry. 

Don't worry if you missed it... we took notes for you...

When is it best to send your information to a buyer?

- As early as possible is best, to give the buyer chance to go over your information and come back to you.

- During and after London Fashion Week is when buyers are on the look out for new designers. The first couple of weeks after London Fashion Week is best for emerging designers to ensure their designs are seen as this is a key time in the year for buyers.

- Paris Fashion Week is the best time as buyers are more willing to spend money in Paris then London which is often too busy for them to part with their cash!

- June-August, and November-Christmas are the only real 'downtimes' for buyers. So once you contact them, make sure you mention a visit or a follow-up at a later stage when buyers might be more open to dedicate a time to sit and discuss options with you.

- Don't leave long phone messages... they won't get listened to. Emails first thing in the morning are best, especially prior to 9am on the way to office...

- Email Buyer and Assistant Buyer if you can, but avoid emailing them when they are likely to be out of the country- Paris, New York, Milan Fashion Week...

- Agencies such as 'Lambert & Butler' and 'Mint' are good to have on board, and they will carry more weight with a buyer...

Exclusives...

Buyers will always ask for exclusives, and these can work in your favour but they can also work against you...

- Don't limit yourself, especially when it comes to specific countries. You don't want to risk losing orders from other buyers because you've promised an exclusive, especially if it's small boutiques that have a limited market.

- Be prepared to compromise! Exclusives are very in trend, especially with big department stores, so if they want an exclusive you don't want to give, maybe offer an exclusive colour-way instead.

- Magazine Editors in particular are very enthusiastic about exclusives, so some companies will put a large amount of marketing behind exclusive pieces, even if the garment isn't back financially, the press coverage could be just as valuable.

Incentives...

Offering incentives and bonuses for stores could help your brand leave the shop floor...

- Once a sales assistant is passionate or motivated about the brand, they are going to want to push the sales and sell the product to the best of their ability. Even if the garment goes unsold, the information learnt and distributed by the Sales Assistants will be passed onto customers and others in the company- promoting the brand and, more than likely, selling the brand as well.

- Customers like to know about inspirations, stories and meanings behind the garments- as do buyers. If there is an emotional connection to garments as well as aesthetics, then you're brand will look a lot more appealing.

Approaching Buyers...

There are a couple of options for designers when approaching buyers about your collections...

- Agencies or showrooms are always a good idea, but you have to factor in costs as their will be an admin fee plus commission which is normally around 15%-20%.

- You can get lost in big showrooms - those that let you organise your own appointments and sell your own garments like Vauxhall Fashion Scout are the best, as you have complete control.

- Contact buyers yourself if money is a problem and you want full control over the influx of business.

- Look for funding to back your brand. There are so many initiatives out there to support young british talent, that it's a wasted resource if you don't seek them out!

- Platforms, such as Vauxhall Fashion Scout are perfect to launch your brand and invite/meet buyers, plus you have the security and knowledge that you're being looked after.

- If you offer to go to a buyer, rather then them coming to you, it really shows an effort and a sense of importance and pride about your brand...

"Sometimes it's not that we don't want to see the garments, but we might just not have the time to get to you. If you come to us, you're here already, so it's much easier." Harvey Nichols.

- Remember- you always want the best, buyers are interested in what other buyers are purchasing. If you have a good buyer stocking your designs, tell other buyers so they know that you are being sought after! Competition is rife, and you have to make buyers want your designs over everybody else's!

- Distribution is vital for young designers, as you are developing your brand identity in the market. You need to think about who your key customer is, and make sure that the buyers that want your brand have the same key customer in mind for your brand.
Also- always take the big stores that you want first. If it doesn't work out, then smaller boutiques and stores are ideal, but you don't want to be caught out with being unable to fulfil an order because your stock is already spread into several small boutiques.



MENTORING| Vauxhall Fashion Scout catches up with Harvey Nichols buyer Alison Chisholm after successful VFS Mentoring Event


The Vauxhall Fashion Scout Mentoring Event is always a blast - crammed full of information and advice for emerging designers, we bring some of the leading experts in the industry together to help support British designers. 

After Monday's Sales Event, we caught up with Alison Chisolm, Harvey Nichol's Assistant Buyer Contemporary Bridge, on how she thought the event went as a member of the expert panel...

"I think it was a great success, from my point of view I felt I could really connect with the young designers and let them know what we need from them and hopefully in return they got information that they need from us, which might make them a bit more wise to what we need from them when coming to approach buyers with information." 

A big thank you to Alison for being part of our panel for the evening, it was such a success- we're really looking forward to the next one! 

Stay tuned to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout blog for more information on the Mentoring Event from this week, including exclusive interviews, images and insights from the night!


Friday, 23 March 2012

MENTORING| Vauxhall Fashion Scout introduces Harvey Nichols, Avenue 32 and Orla Kiely for a Mentoring Event all about Sales - Monday 26th March



Vauxhall Fashion Scout Mentoring is back! This time, it's all about the Sales...  



Monday 26th March
7pm
Beach Blanket Babylon

The evening will feature guest speakers from both sides of the sales channel. Sales are fundamental to the success of a designers selling collection and this mentoring aims to provide a comprehensive guide to attracting and sustaining both sales agents and buyers’ interest. 
During the evening we will be discussing:

 - Approaching and finding buyers
- How to position collections
- Sales Contracts
- Payment terms
- General Advice
- How to deal with exclusives
- Online

With a fantastic panel of experts available for questions and answers, this is the one-stop place for designers hoping to improve on their business and brand awareness. 

Alison Chisholm: Assitant Buyer Contemporary Bridge, Harvey Nichols
Alison Chisolm is the Assitant Buyer for Contemporary at Harvey Nichols. Alison is also responsible for working with new designers and implementing new brands into the Harvey Nichols store.

Harvey Nichols was founded in 1813 and today is the UK’s premier fashion retaile. Renowned both in the UK and internationally for the breadth and depth of its exclusive fashion merchandise, it offers many of the world’s most prestigious brands in womenswear, menswear, accessories, beauty and food. Harvey Nichols prides itself on finding fresh fashion talent in unexpected places.

Erin Mullaney: Fashion & Brand Director, Avenue 32  
Erin Mullaney, who previously held position as buying director at Browns, has joined online designer venture, Avenue 32, as the Fashion and Brand Director. Avenue 32, which distinguishes itself as your luxury shopping neighbourhood online, showcases and retials designer collection salongside fashion editorial content.
Avenue 32 is a memebers only, high-end fashion focused website. They aim to provide unprecedented access to cutting-edge international labels, offering the latest in high fashion clothing, shoes, and accessories via express worldwide delivery.
Designers such as Yasmin Kianfar, Manuela Dack, Eudon Choi, Hermione de Paula, Maria Francesca Pepe and Felder Felder are stocked alonside established labels Emanuel Ungaro, Calvin Klein, Preen, Hussein Chalayan, Tim Soar and many more.

Matthew Watters: Brand Development Manager, Orla Kiely
Matthew Watters gained previous sales experience working for RMO Sales and international sales agency Tomorrow Ltd who look after names such as Huishan Zhang, Issa London, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, before making the move to Orla Kiely. Matthew now holds position as the Brand Development Manager for Orla Kiely and is responsible for the higly anticipated relaunching of the line.


Spaces are strictly limited to one representative per designer label.  
Priority is given to Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers.


Look forward to seeing you there!


The VFS Mentoring programme is only possible due to the kind support of Beach Blanket Babylon and the Mayor of London.


Thursday, 22 March 2012

MENTORING| PR Mentoring Event with Tank Magazine and IPR - Review



Monday night saw the Vauxhall Fashion Scout PR Mentoring Event at the Beach Blanket Babylon in Shoreditch. With a fantastic talking panel consisting of Pandora Lennard from Tank Magazine and Graeme Gaughan from IPR joining our Director Martyn Roberts, the evening was a phenomenal success. 

For those of you who weren't available to attend - you can copy our notes...

Speakers for the Evening:  

Pandora Lennard is a well-established London based freelance stylist. She joined Tank in 2007 where she has now become Fashion Editor. Contributing to Fashion Editorials as well as working on Production, Casting and Events. She

also contributes to work as a freelance stylist and has collaborated with brands including Liberty, TSEsay and Gstar.

Pandora looked fab on the night with her cool quirky style!

Greame Gaughan, Communications Director at IPR explained to us that he has a different perspective on PR! IPR is a Fashion, Lifestyle and Events Agency that specialises in building brand profiles and supporting new designers. Their expertise lie in delivering stand-out Editorial, product placement, creative marketing, event management, brand development and sales consultancy. 

The evening's topics centred around PR- how to find it, keep it, and perhaps most importantly- make it benefit your brand...

What makes a Designer stand out to a PR agency?

Its all about that first impression. When you first contact an agency, you need to get their attention immediately. You want them to stop and think, hang on a minute, this designer looks good!

What to do when contacting an Agency?

You need to come across professional, Use a professional e-mail address (NOT for   example kittykat69@hotmail.com)
- Don’t spell the companies or person you are contacting name wrong.
- State who you are, What you want and are looking for
Using visuals is the best way to get attention. Send a Pdf file of your work or collection
within your email.
- Give some information about your collection- an agency wants to know what your
collection is about- inspirations, garments, construction, etc.
- Include a Personal Profile...


Friday, 18 November 2011

VFS Mentoring Event Review- Production


Guest speakers;


Burack Cakmak: Head of Sustainable Production, Gucci Group Ltd.
With over thirteen years business experience, Burack is currently the Director of Corporate Sustainability at Gucci Group. He is responsible for the implementation of sustainable production, working to develop initiatives for business ethics, human rights and environmental stewardship.

Paul Williams: Business Counsellor for East London Small Business Centre
With an extensive history in garment manufacturing, Paul became Managing Director for the design and manufacturing of Next, Debenhams and House of Fraser, running three factories simultaneously. Paul then spent two years as a consultant, auditing and setting up factories in China and Turkey for various clients before becoming an advisor at ELSBC. ELSBC is an agency designed to provide financial and business advice and support to start up fashion labels in the UK. 

Burhan Bilici: Managing Director De´ Atelier Ltd/Sourgrape
With a family background in manufacturing, Burhan has 15 years experience in the production business, having worked for companies including Karen Millen, Whistles and All Saints. Burack now runs his own production company with a portfolio that includes Hussein Chalayan, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll, Roland Mouret, Eudon Choi & House of Holland.

Finding the right factory
  • You can start on-line with a basic search and email the ones you are interested in 
  • Go to an area where there are many factories and visit them all until you find the right one
  • Talk to others and share your experiences. You must all work together as the next generation of designers. You do not have to share confidential information but working together will give you more leverage to influence behaviour.
  • Look at other brands the factories work for. Are these brands in-line with yours?
  • When they have made your sample, this should be an indicator of the quality of your production orders.

Manufacturing Abroad
  • Don't have to go abroad for manufacturing. More and more units are opening up in the UK - not just in London but also in the Midlands and North of England
  • When you are starting out, it is a good idea to have things manufactured in the UK because you can keep a close eye on it. It's when the orders grow and you need to start considering price that you might consider manufacturing abroad
  • It completely depends on your designs where you might choose to go. You might consider Italy, Portugal, Turkey, The Eastern Block (in particular Bulgaria and Lithuania) or you may have to go even further if you need specific skills e.g. handwork to India or Morocco for leather
  • You don't have to stick to one location. As you grow, you may consider different location

'Made in Britain' label
  • Items can be labelled, 'Made in Britain' if a certain percentage of the garment was made in Britain
  • If you buy fabric and bring it into EU and pay the duty, it becomes European
  • You don't have to put country of origin on garment labels within the EU, however, this is a requirement for the US

Custom Information
  • You can ring them and find out, they are very helpful

UK Based Production
  • There is a big market for UK production, not just new designers but also bigger designers
  • Designers like the 'Made in Britain' label
  • More retailers would like to come to the UK to reduce the carbon footprint
  • There isn't enough manufacturing in the UK to be able to cater for the demand but more manufacturers are now starting to think its worth it to open up small factories

Questions to ask a factory initially 
  • The capacity of the factory
  • What their availability is
  • When their quiet periods are - when it will be best time to place your orders
  • What interests them in taking on your goods
  • Their lead times
  • Prices - they should have set prices
  • Terms of Business - set these out in the beginning. Ask questions like, "What if you are late with production?". Cover all possible situations so you know where you stand if problems arise.
  • Ask what their sample mark-up rate is

The Factory/Designer Relationship
  • A factory is only as good as its designers
  • Make sure you go there with absolutely all the information you need. It has to be very clear. Organisation is key
  • Have the sample with you, technical drawings, size charts, information on how to make, patterns. You have to make sure your patterns are correct
  • Any inaccuracy will hinder your production. You need to make sure all elements are covered early on 
  • You've worked on the sample and should know where the complications lie so if you know something might be tricky in production, make them aware
  • Make sure they can understand your handwriting
  • If you need to supply threading, beads, zips, they all have to be there. If anything is missing, it will stop production
  • If your factory is abroad, you have to be even more careful that everything is there. Have a line sheet and triple-check everything
  • Everything has to be available at the same time. Once the factory cuts the garment, they will want to finish it. They have targets to reach themselves. If you have things missing, the relationship breaks down

Production Orders and Samples
  • Factories do samples for the shows so they are familiar with the product and can give designers a price for production
  • Sampling costs a lot more than production does. There are separate prices for samples and orders
  • Don't just turn up with a sample and ask how much it would be to produce
  • You should see the factory's ability to create a high quality garment before placing a full order
  • It's unrealistic to ask a factory to sample every item in a collection

Overseeing Production
  • Go in while they are making your products especially when they are on the machines
  • You know the product better than anyone else so you should physically be there overseeing that
  • All factories should allow this
  • You can give them comment sheets on what you expect
  • You can oversee from samples to full orders

Pricing
  • Garment must be made in a cost-effective way
  • Without changing the design, you can look at how it's made
  • Ask the factory for advice on ways to reduce the costs
  • It is the style which will determine pricing - some styles are just not productive
  • After 50 pieces, you should be able to ask for a discount in the UK
  • Abroad, it might be over a 1000

Cutting
  • Factories prefer to cut themselves
  • If you cut it or you've outsourced the cutting and something goes wrong at the factory stage, easy for them to blame it on the cut

What to do if your sample was perfect but your production order wasn't
  • If you were there while it was being made, you could avoid this
  • Shouldn't be any different if they made sample perfectly
  • Tell them it's not how you wanted it. You will then have to negotiate
  • It is very difficult to try and get anything back if they do get it wrong
  • Avoid mistakes by regular visits and building relationships

Terms of Agreement
  • Some factories won't sign contracts, depends on the establishment but you can have terms of agreement
  • Terms of Agreement can be through e-mail provided you get a response
  • As an incentive, you could offer to pay an extra percentage if they finish your order early

Payment Terms
  • You can have stipulations in your terms of agreement that will give terms of payment
  • Each factory has their own payment terms and you will have to negotiate these
  • You should aim to be able to QC your garments first without handing over any money in the UK. This is more difficult when manufacturing abroad - you will have to pay 30-40% upfront. You can then QC the garments before handing the rest over
  • It is important to pay something to be ethical/sustainable and cover some of the factory's costs such as wages

Production Loans from 
  • Available from East London Small Business Centre
  • If you get an order from a reputable stockist, you can apply for a loan. If approved, they will fund fabric and production costs until you get paid
  • This is usually over a 3-4 month period with interest at 5%-7%
  • If you've paid this back on time, there is the option of coming back the following season for another loan

Minimum and Maximum Orders
  • In the UK, 10-20 garments, Europe 50-100 garments, China 250 garments
  • Minimums are coming down in Europe
  • Items that require handwork are lower
  • If it is less than 10, sample prices will be charged
  • With samples, possible to get just one done only if you book in advance

Re-orders
  • Factories like to forecast 3-4 months ahead but book out 80-90% of capacity with 10% left to cater for additional work and re-orders
  • Only small re-orders

Timing
  • Build yourself a critical path and follow it
  • You are a business so keep in touch with the factory and oversee the production to make sure it is being done on time
  • Factory will be eager to meet deadlines because they have factored in other production also

Sustainable Production
  • Looking at the impact you are having when creating a product and be considerate every step of the way. Make sure you are not putting future generations needs in jepordy. You have to be considerate of how much you are using, what type of materials you are using 
  • Put in your Terms of Agreement that you expect minimum wage to be paid and standards to be followed
  • Find out who exactly is making your product so everything is traceable
  • Consider how much processing goes into the design, where you are producing, where you transport from
  • Consider using local services to help sustain and create jobs

Production Agents
  • These aren't a good idea when starting out
  • Bigger companies use them especially when manufacturing abroad
  • They will impact on your cash
  • You should learn to do things yourself so you experience everything from design up to sales
Sarah Goodwin

Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Special announcement: Graduate Showcase


Nova Chiu (LCF)

Parsha Gerayesh

Steven Tai (CSM)


Anna Smit (RCA)

Charlotte Barry (LCF)

Helen Turner (RCA)

Kate Wallis (WSTM)

Nicola Morgan (RCA)
Patrick Li (RCA)
Ume Romaan (DMF)

Victoria Spurce (RCA)


 
Hello VFS followers! This LFW Vauxhall Fashion Scout is launching an exciting new initiative for exceptional talent - the Graduate Showcase.  Featuring a selection of the very best new talent to come out from and around Graduate Fashion Week, The Graduate Showcase features graduates from Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion, Royal Academy of Art, Westminster, De Montfort and Kingston Universities.  
Internationally recognised as the home of new talent, Vauxhall Fashion Scout have scouted and selected these graduates from over 300 collections viewed during this June’s graduate shows.  

The graduates include: 
Anna Smit (RCA)
Charlotte Barry (LCF)
Helen Turner (RCA)
Kate Wallis (Westminster)
Nicola Morgan (RCA)
Parsha Gerayesh (Westminster)
Nova Chiu (LCF)
Patrick Li (RCA)
Steven Tai (CSM)
Umeromaan (De Montfort)
Victoria Spruce (RCA)
 
 The Graduate Showcase will take place on the opening day of London Fashion Week and features a curated selection of three outfits from their graduate collections, as styled by Guy Hipwell of Fashion156.com. Supported by the Mayor of London´s London Fashion Showcasing Fund the event will enable press and buyers attending LFW to meet the young designers and see their creative vision first hand.

 “My team and I saw over 300 graduate collections this June and were extremely excited by what we saw. Unfortunately many buyers and media were unable attend all the shows, so we decided to showcase a selection of the very best collections for them during LFW. It is important that the whole industry has the opportunity to see the future of British talent at the very start of their careers. 
A key element to this initiative is a bespoke mentoring programme for these highly talented graduates.  It is our objective to help them take the giant step from graduation to establishing their own creative businesses.” Martyn Roberts, Vauxhall Fashion Scout Founder. 
Vauxhall Fashion Scout is running intensive mentoring sessions featuring guest speakers from across the industry to provide key information on setting up a business, PR, Sales, branding, funding and production. The sessions will take the graduates through all aspects of setting up their own label and running a business.  
The Graduate Showcase will take place Friday 16th September, 11am – 3pm at Freemasons’ Hall, Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s permanent location.