COLLECTION| Ong Oaj Pairam SS15

This season Ong-Oaj Pairam explored the concept of fragmented memories with a collection inspired by his childhood in Nakhon Ratichasima. Growing up alongside his family's Noodle factory, Pairam combines utilitarian functional workwear with hedonistic aesthetic. Having appeal to both genders, the collection was worn by both sexes, proving the wearability of the collection- something rarely done at Fashion Scout.

Strong feminine silhouettes swept the catwalk as dresses floated in atmosphere. Waists were dropped, belted in and extended as oriental motifs covered garments head to toe. Layers were separated by the huey tones of pastels whilst many wore silk layered over pleated fabric, musing gladiators with clean drapery and knee high sandals. In keeping with this, models wore sleek ponytails with knotted backs complimented by clean lids and vibrant water lines.

Varying in aesthetic meant gathered necklines, tied jumpsuits and a minor palette of bright Bowie-esque metallic, whilst embossed singlets were worn with floor length skirts. Key pieces displayed contrasting sleeves in both colour and fabrics. Boned ball gowns finished the show as they filled the catwalk with the last spout of colour, closing on a eery dramatic drop.

Although the pieces flowed delicately, it produced a tougher, protective and more uniformed aesthetic this season, possibly reflective of a tough trade of which surrounded Pairam in childhood.   

By Joanna McCutcheon, (@Joannamcc_).

Images by Celine Castillon.

BACKSTAGE| Ong Oaj Pairam SS15

Models sit patiently and hair stylists bustle back and forth backstage at Toni&Guy before the Ong-Oaj Pairam show this evening. Amongst the frenzy and adrenaline we spoke with returning Head of Hair, Chie Sato, as she led the team in creating the "futuristic" look for the display.

What aesthetic are you aiming for in the Pairam show?

The look that I'm creating today is quite sleek, incorporating just a few ponytails. It's a modern geisha look. It's not very old-time so what we wanted to do was create a clean and shiny look.

Is it tricky to realise that look for the show in the various hair types you have here?

It's quite easy to incorporate as long as the girls have got length.

What key motifs have you noticed so far at Fashion Scout?

For hair I noticed that there is a really big contrast between wet and dry which looks quite trendy. Hair is also much more accessorised, and shape-wise hair isn't too wide, it's much more flatter on the side. It could be bit more higher on the top but it's not really really round overall.

What Toni&Guy products are you using backstage to create this look?

I'm using their volume mouse, and I'm also using golden gloss, hairspray and a shine spray. 

What Toni&Guy products would you describe as a must-have for backstage at a fashion show?

Volume mousse is an essential product for any show or any shoot.

By Clarissa Waldron, (@thisisclarissa).

Photographs by Anai Bharucha, (@anai014).

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Ong Oaj Pairam

Hailing from Nakon Ratchasima, Thailand, designer Ong-Oaj Pairam presented his first season on the Fashion Scout catwalk during SS14. Graduating from the University of Brighton in BA Fashion Design he quickly found himself developing his professional skills under Roland Mouret and Proenza Schouler in New York before returning to London to launch his own label in 2012.

For AW14, Pairam took inspiration from his childhood memory - Disney villains such as Ursula in The Little Mermaid - and exposed it on prints with bold colour. Using rich flowing, bright colours, Pairam created a palette of electric orange, red and purple that offset the monochromatic looks.

Playing with the contrast between original signature prints, he uses soft tailoring and loud colour to redefine luxury womenswear. With a breath-taking attention to detail and hand embroidered finish, Pairam often refers his designs back to the 1950s shape, for the handcraft skills at that time.

His SS15 collection, scheduled to grace the Fashion Scout catwalk on Friday 12th September, is set to be a retro and reflective collection about his growing up at Nakon Ratchasima. Having been brought up in a noodle factory owned by his family, he has now grown to a polished designer. Seizing this collection as an opportunity to draw on his Thai background for the first time, we look forward to seeing how east will meet west under his signature approach.

By Bowen Lee, Contributor, (@bowenleely).

Images, courtesy of Ong Oaj Pairam.

NEWS| Apu Jan, Lulu Liu and Ong-Oaj Pairam Confirmed for Fashion Scout SS15

We're pleased to announce that designers Apu Jan, Lulu Liu and Ong-Oaj Pairam will be returning to Fashion Scout to showcase during our SS15 season.

Regulars to the catwalk at our Freemasons Hall venue, all three designers showcased their AW14 pieces last season:

"Setting the scene for Apu Jan’s ‘Turbulence’ AW14 show, a bass guitarist, violinist and DJ churned out live, dark, heady beats. Following on from last season, Apu Jan sought inspiration from nature once more, as well as the frantic hustle of modern society. Known for his bespoke knitting technique, Jan upped the stakes this season combining super-fine and extra chunky knits, creating both sleek and voluminous silhouettes." Lia Stokes

"Opening sounds of moody storms set the atmosphere for this eclectic show. Inspired by the last Empress of China, Cixi, Liu’s collection embodied the regal spirit of one of China’s most influential women. Strong, powerful, feminine and fashionable, Cixi personifies the woman Liu has in mind with her creations. Embracing the rich history of her homeland, Lulu incorporated the Chinese royal colours of gold, blue, green and red to her designs." Lia Stokes

"Ong-Oaj Pairam opened his Fashion Scout show with a blast of vibrant jewel tones and intricately detailed patterning that looked nothing short of sensational. His signature 1950s style is ever-present in his AW14 collection which combines printed dresses and tailored trouser suits with vibrantly coloured patent and leather bomber jackets." Charlotte Muscat

Keep up to date with everything Fashion Scout in between now and fashion week, including schedule releases on our blog, Twitter and Instagram.  

By Lia Stokes and Charlotte Muscat

COLLECTION | Ong Oaj Pairam AW14

Ong-Oaj Pairam opened his Fashion Scout show with a blast of vibrant jewel tones and intricately detailed patterning that looked nothing short of sensational. His signature 1950’s style is ever-present in his AW14 collection which combines printed dresses and tailored trouser suits with vibrantly coloured patent and leather bomber jackets. 

Inspired by the idea of hidden danger, the first half of the catwalk was dominated by print on print looks, all channelling a retro feel, with models sporting sky-high beehives and bright colour block coats draping over the shoulders of their detailed dresses, with a highlight coming in the form of a most beautiful monochrome patterned trouser suit. 

The second half of the show saw hemlines drop and led the way for a more dramatic look, models walked with a sense of heightened urgency as strapless gowns and trailing chiffon sensationally graced the catwalk with breath taking impact. Both brightly coloured and more muted coloured gowns took to the catwalk, with pattern taking a back seat.  The colour pallette of Pairam’s AW14 collection manages to be bold yet not aggressive, it is startling yet stunning and its attention to detail is second to none. The femme fatales of the 1950s came alive again as they strut down the catwalk with a look of mischief in their eyes.

Having graduated from the University of Brighton with a BA in Fashion Design and developed his skills working for both Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret. After setting up his own label in November 2012 Pairam has gone from strength to strength.

By Charlotte Muscat, Contributor. (@CharlotteLM9)

Photography by Lepa Georgievska (@Georgievskalepa)

COLLECTION| Ong-Oaj Pairam SS14

Launching his collection for the very first time at Fashion Scout this afternoon, we saw British-Thai designer - Ong-Oaj Pairam showcase his work. Having worked in the fashion houses of both Roland Mouret and Proenza Schouler, Ong went on to found his own brand in November 2012; starting with his SS14 collection, drawn from the character of Gertie, from Stephen Spielberg’s blockbuster - E.T.

Focusing on her childish curiosity, her mischievous manner and her love of creativity; Ong channeled these elements into the DNA of a collection, which encompassed wearable, yet bold and inspiring womenswear.

Ong’s other inspirations, which lie in the realm of sports luxe fashion and the 1950’s era were also distinctly apparent; through glamorous volumised hair and sleek silhouetted tea dresses. The collection also included an array of soft tailoring, delicate pleats, subtle spring coloured prints and flowing evening dresses. Aside from print work, complex embroidery techniques were also introduced, along with appliqué and contrasting fabric variations.

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Written by Brooke McCord, Fashion Scout Contributor. Follow me on Twitter @BrookeMcCord

Photography by Benjamin Turgel, @BenjaminTurgel