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Adriana Perelli Gonzales - Istituto Marangoni Milan
Sabrina Pilkati - Academia Di Costume E Di Moda
Shan Liao Huang - Shih Chien University
Claudio Cutungo - IED
Jessica Tarisch - Istituto Marangoni Paris
On the final day of GFW 2014, the International Catwalk Competition hit the runway. A stunning explosion of print, colour and texture from universities across the globe, the show was testament to the talent of our international counterparts.
Highlights included Adriana Perelli Gonzales' ‘Afro-Cuban Beats’ collection, inspired by an Afro-Cuban jazz song. Gonzales’ collection overflowed with character as Cuban and African culture collided to form an eclectic combination of texture and print. Lively prints were adorned with feather, fur, beads and hand stitched embroidery. Orange, yellow and green tones featured heavily throughout and black provided a backdrop for a sea of ethnic print. A playful banana print was also worked into the collection. Feather cuffs and floral headpieces beautifully complemented Gonzales’ ethnic fusion.
Sabrina Pilkati showcased a minimal, architectural aesthetic within her collection. Ultra high neck details in caviar leather were featured extended from mesh tops. Deconstructed silhouettes set the tone for Pilkati's collection. Leather and fleece fabrics were juxtaposed in designs from across the collection with panelling and curved zip details adding a sense of deconstruction and garment manipulation to each look. A particular highlight came in the form of a cream coloured coat with extended, structured shoulder detail. A colour palette of red, black and cream formed shell-like encasings which strikingly manipulated the female form.
Shan Liao Huang used a limited colour palette of strictly grey tones throughout her collection. Featuring both mens and womenswear, Huang’s designs exuded a feeling of androgyny. Silhouettes were oversized, particularly in the shoulder area and garments were padded throughout the collection with Huang’s jacket designs resembling that of baseball jackets in terms of silhouette. Graphic black and white print was displayed in singular sections within each look. A distressed aesthetic set the tone for Huang’s collection which favoured a use of feather applique detailing, metal box bags and panelling to create a look reminiscent of modern armour.
Claudio Cutungo favoured a dramatic use of black in his collection. Mesh, feathers, lace and vinyl black detailing added to Cutungo’s striking aesthetic. Cutungo’s designs featured floor length designs in a contrasting array of textures, with heavy wool coats being juxtaposed against softly ruffled sleeves. Accentuated waists gave added form to an otherwise straight silhouette and vinyl black hats complete with lace detailing perfectly complemented Cutungo’s look.
Jessica Tarisch presented a traditional collection, taking inspiration from the Alpine region in which she grew up. Heavy flanneled fabrics were given a feminine twist as they were combined with softer silk pieces throughout the collection. Knitted crochet finishes offered a feeling of tradition to Tarisch’s collection and a traditionally feminine silhouette complete with cinched in waist added to a sense of culture - with heavy fabrics being reminiscent of the hiking clothing that Tarisch encountered growing up. Patchwork elements and a muted colour palette effortlessly complemented Tarisch’s homespun aesthetic.
By Charlotte Muscat, (@CharlotteLM9).
Images by Tram Nguyen, (@TramNguyenP).
Images by Tram Nguyen, (@TramNguyenP).
