Today in the exhibition room of Fashion Scout London, we have The Swedish School of Textiles taking over part of the space. Showcasing creations from alumni Karin Mellqvist, Miguel Lucas de Simas Martins, Majli Af Ekenstam, Gabriela Vallejos Castro and Sara-Lovise Ewertson.
The designs, which were also seen on the catwalk yesterday, show different takes and explorations of material and especially display a recurring play on contrasting weights and textures. Utilising unconventional fabrics to create texture, shape and ever changing colours, the garments change constantly and play with light.
The garment shown by Karin Mellqvist, from the collection “Hommage to The Fringes” utilises strands of plastic-like material in shades of red and pink. Covering half of a cream-coloured, knee-length structured dress made of a very opaque fabric, an interesting juxtaposition between simple and rough textured, shimmering and full of movement is created.
Miguel Lucas de Simas Martins involves the body in geometric shapes for his collection “Package+ Body”. Using geometric blocks of bright colours in shades of blue and red, the mannequin's body is covered by a stiff fabric that gives the impression of completely involving the wearer. Seemingly Pop Art inspired, a striped balaclava in pink and white completes the look.
The mannequin dressed by designer Majli Af Ekenstam sports a sheer kimono, exploring the colour and print in a spontaneous, yet organic looking way. The cut is clean and simple, with the highlight of the garment being in the colours and the way the light reacts with the material.
Playing with weights and pleats to create tension on the fabric and stretch the pantsuit to how gravity reacts to it, designer Gabriela Vallejos layered a stretched white pantsuit over a lilac iridescent high-neck crop top in a heavy, yet very luminous fabric. The result is an interesting, ever-changing outfit.
Lastly, designer Sara-Lovise Ewertson utilised foam and sportswear fabrics to create the garment of a cheerleader of the future. In block shades of bright and neon colour, the statement piece was topped off by a hockey mask in bright red.
Overall, the outfits showed a knowledge of colour and texture and a well-constructed balance between the two as well as an interesting study on light, and the colours that react and reflect with it.
By Biju Belinky, (@bijubelinky).
Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson