Self-described as “sharp and intelligent”, ZDDZ is a Russian-born label that has taken up residence in East London. The crossover from continent to island has only stemmed to ignite the creativity and unique flair in the brand’s aesthetic, headed up by designer Dasha Selyanova. Worn by Rita Ora and Lianne La Havas, and with a feature at Fashion Scout this season, we caught up with Selyanova to discuss her latest collection and life at the helm of ZDDZ.
What influenced your collection for SS15?
It's inspired by Lycra-clad cyclists, gas mask covers, shop display windows and printed nail polish tops. For the print I used outtakes from newspapers - 'Quiet Life', 'Zero Tolerance' -and put them across the garments in a way that a trashy fruit or nail polish packaging would look like. It was in order to show that political promises do not mean a thing today, to devalue them.
How important is your Russian heritage in your design process every season?
It’s hard to personally define whether you or your work carry some ‘national characteristics’, if there are such at all. I believe people from outside the label will be more qualified to judge. I am not particularly inspired by either Moscow or London. I mean, I could be doing it in New York or Baku and it would still be ZDDZ.
Who is the typical ZDDZ customer?
Someone who is OK with going against the grain.
Prints and motifs are often contrasted against neutrality, becoming a signature look for ZDDZ, can we expect more of this?
I'd say as long as my inspiration comes from the city and its textures, it is going to look like that, because that’s what the urban landscape looks like to me. But I might get pregnant and start making pink chiffon dresses, who knows! Life is unpredictable.
Ladies street wear isn't highly catered for. Was this something you were conscious of when setting up your label?
No, not at all actually. It's just when I was 15 to 18 years old I was the only girl in a group of local rappers in Saint-Petersburg, so I wore a lot of street wear, but boy's street wear. I still do that, but it felt quite natural to want to give it a feminine twist. I am still a girl and I like to look a bit sexy. Fuba baggy pants are not always flattering on a girl... I wanted to make the garments that would convey a 'boy's message', but so you could definitely see that it's womenswear also.
What does ZDDZ mean?
ZoyaDashaDashaZoya
What's next for you after Fashion Scout?
I’m working on an exciting collaboration with a digital media artist based in London. Also, we are doing Aurora Fashion Week in October in my hometown Saint-Petersburg, so that's what is next I guess, the show must go on! I’ll also be working on the AW15 collection. I also want to spend more time drawing, I miss it. It feels like this label takes almost all, or most, of my time. I would like to be able to do something else. I really enjoy working as an illustrator and after Fashion Week I am aiming to do more of that. That's the plan at least.
How important is your Russian heritage in your design process every season?
It’s hard to personally define whether you or your work carry some ‘national characteristics’, if there are such at all. I believe people from outside the label will be more qualified to judge. I am not particularly inspired by either Moscow or London. I mean, I could be doing it in New York or Baku and it would still be ZDDZ.
Who is the typical ZDDZ customer?
Someone who is OK with going against the grain.
Prints and motifs are often contrasted against neutrality, becoming a signature look for ZDDZ, can we expect more of this?
I'd say as long as my inspiration comes from the city and its textures, it is going to look like that, because that’s what the urban landscape looks like to me. But I might get pregnant and start making pink chiffon dresses, who knows! Life is unpredictable.
Ladies street wear isn't highly catered for. Was this something you were conscious of when setting up your label?
No, not at all actually. It's just when I was 15 to 18 years old I was the only girl in a group of local rappers in Saint-Petersburg, so I wore a lot of street wear, but boy's street wear. I still do that, but it felt quite natural to want to give it a feminine twist. I am still a girl and I like to look a bit sexy. Fuba baggy pants are not always flattering on a girl... I wanted to make the garments that would convey a 'boy's message', but so you could definitely see that it's womenswear also.
What does ZDDZ mean?
ZoyaDashaDashaZoya
What's next for you after Fashion Scout?
I’m working on an exciting collaboration with a digital media artist based in London. Also, we are doing Aurora Fashion Week in October in my hometown Saint-Petersburg, so that's what is next I guess, the show must go on! I’ll also be working on the AW15 collection. I also want to spend more time drawing, I miss it. It feels like this label takes almost all, or most, of my time. I would like to be able to do something else. I really enjoy working as an illustrator and after Fashion Week I am aiming to do more of that. That's the plan at least.
By Clarissa Waldron, (@thisisclarissa).
Photographs, courtesy of ZDDZ