EXCLUSIVE | Mariana Jungmann Joins the CFE's Fashion Pioneers

The Centre For Fashion Enterprise's Pioneer Programme is designed to nurture emerging London-based designer labels, identifying and providing solutions for some of the issues that may be stifling growth in the early stages of business.

Fashion Scout designer, Mariana Jungmann, who debuted her collection at Fashion Scout London in an exciting multi-sensory catwalk show, is the latest to join the best new designers accepted onto the CFE Pioneer Programme.

Mariana Jungmann, will follow in the footsteps of CFE Pioneer Alumni; Simone Rocha, Steven Tai, Haizen Wang and T Lipop amongst others. She will be joined by Fashion East designer Louise Alsop and new talents Faustine Steinmetz, Adrien Sauvage, Liam Hodges and Studio XO.

Of being inducted into the Programme Mariana says; "London is one of the most inspiring places I've ever been, more than that it is the place to be if you want to grow a business. The Pioneer Programme has helped designers that I look up to, to become the huge success they are now. I can't wait for it to start so we can venture into this new journey."

INTERVIEW| ZDDZ

Self-described as “sharp and intelligent”, ZDDZ is a Russian-born label that has taken up residence in East London. The crossover from continent to island has only stemmed to ignite the creativity and unique flair in the brand’s aesthetic, headed up by designer Dasha Selyanova. Worn by Rita Ora and Lianne La Havas, and with a feature at Fashion Scout this season, we caught up with Selyanova to discuss her latest collection and life at the helm of ZDDZ.

What influenced your collection for SS15?

It's inspired by Lycra-clad cyclists, gas mask covers, shop display windows and printed nail polish tops. For the print I used outtakes from newspapers - 'Quiet Life', 'Zero Tolerance' -and put them across the garments in a way that a trashy fruit or nail polish packaging would look like. It was in order to show that political promises do not mean a thing today, to devalue them.

How important is your Russian heritage in your design process every season?

It’s hard to personally define whether you or your work carry some ‘national characteristics’, if there are such at all. I believe people from outside the label will be more qualified to judge. I am not particularly inspired by either Moscow or London. I mean, I could be doing it in New York or Baku and it would still be ZDDZ.

Who is the typical ZDDZ customer?

Someone who is OK with going against the grain.

Prints and motifs are often contrasted against neutrality, becoming a signature look for ZDDZ, can we expect more of this?

I'd say as long as my inspiration comes from the city and its textures, it is going to look like that, because that’s what the urban landscape looks like to me. But I might get pregnant and start making pink chiffon dresses, who knows! Life is unpredictable.

Ladies street wear isn't highly catered for. Was this something you were conscious of when setting up your label?

No, not at all actually. It's just when I was 15 to 18 years old I was the only girl in a group of local rappers in Saint-Petersburg, so I wore a lot of street wear, but boy's street wear. I still do that, but it felt quite natural to want to give it a feminine twist. I am still a girl and I like to look a bit sexy. Fuba baggy pants are not always flattering on a girl... I wanted to make the garments that would convey a 'boy's message', but so you could definitely see that it's womenswear also. 

What does ZDDZ mean?

ZoyaDashaDashaZoya

What's next for you after Fashion Scout?

I’m working on an exciting collaboration with a digital media artist based in London. Also, we are doing Aurora Fashion Week in October in my hometown Saint-Petersburg, so that's what is next I guess, the show must go on! I’ll also be working on the AW15 collection. I also want to spend more time drawing, I miss it. It feels like this label takes almost all, or most, of my time. I would like to be able to do something else. I really enjoy working as an illustrator and after Fashion Week I am aiming to do more of that. That's the plan at least.

By Clarissa Waldron, (@thisisclarissa).

Photographs, courtesy of ZDDZ

ILLUSTRATION| Day Five at Fashion Scout London

Illustrations by Isabelle Hynds

COLLECTION| FAD SS15

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Fashion Futures Final 2014 saw 23 teenage talents showcase the designs that impressed an esteemed jury, including Louise Ibak (designer at George at Asda), Maria Alvarez (founder and CEO at FAD) and Martyn Roberts (founder and director at Fashion Scout), amongst others. The charity supports young designers from all walks of life, helping them to get internships and experience in the fashion industry. This culminates in an annual Fashion Futures awards ceremony, sponsored by George, bringing finalists to Fashion Scout each season.

Presented by Annaliese Dayes, a Next Top Model herself, the packed Vestibule of family, friends and industry members took their positions to watch the six themed collections. 

First up, a tough, urban collection; Renée John Baptiste an all black menswear look, with emphasis on shape and dropped or cropped silhouettes. Andrea Loaiza Giraldo’s blue skirted coat with feminine seaming was made modern with black puffa-style sleeves, while Renée Mutsunge’s floral embellishment added detail to an otherwise simple monochrome dress, with flashes of blue and white zip. Toni Elysse Wright finished the collection with a column-esque white shirt dress, with Perspex band around the bust and lime green mesh ruffle around the hips.

Daniela Silva Velasquez opened the following African inspired collection with a black halterneck gown complete with primary coloured bustier. Tim McDonagh’s grey printed menswear shorts and strong-shouldered blazer combination looked pleasantly retro, while Gabriela Guana’s simple blue sundress with white zig-zag stitching looks perfect in any era. Ellie Boothman’s grey shift dress featured printed panels of 90s style tessellated triangles at the waist and hem.

Holly Coutts opened an athletically regal collection with her sporty tennis dress, realised in red with exposed black zip and metallic mesh skirt. The following gold embellished top, featuring a squiggle pattern by Henrietta Dent, was paired with a brown midi skirt, and followed by Zhané Anjum completion of the collection; a red velvet menswear cape and white shirt with gold embroidery, pearl embellishment and chain shoulder detailing.

Things took a darker turn with Charlotte Dillon’s Victoriana structured patchwork grey and black evening gown with lace back, followed by Hayat Chehab full skirted lace dress with graphic leather modest panelling. A striking bustier by Chenai Jack stood away from the body, finished with a peach lace asymmetric skirt. Yinka Williams’ silver cross-front cape looked modern paired with the deeper shade of steel underneath, and Emily Bass’s shell embroidery on a drop-waist black tulle skirt was unexpected for a long sleeved shirt dress.

Seada Merkulaj bought mermaid ethereality to the next collection, with a navy blue gown and white heart-shaped lace overlay. An aqua and brown waterfall front utility jacket by Kayla Miles surprised when light caught the laser-cut leather panels. Niove Louca’s elegant mermaid skirted dress in neutral lace was made alluring when its backless design was revealed, while Elleanor Goodall’s grey 20s inspired tennis dress with box pleats was accented in lemon yellow.

Finally, Bella Dunne’s Perspex raincoat with black fur trim looked 60s futuristic when paired with a pastel playsuit, the raincoat dotted with the same brushstroke print. The blue, pink and orange cape dress that followed featured subtle animal prints by Tilly Tambini Cooper was a highlight for presenter Annaliese. Shalon Siqueira completed the show with a menswear coat, pink and purple in hue in sporty materials.

Following the show, jury members Alvarez, Carol Robb (freelance designer) and Dorota Watson (Head of Fashion at University of East London) announced the recipients of this year’s awards for Embellishment (Harriet Dent), Colour (Tilly Cooper) and Innovation (Shalom Siqueira). The overall winner of the Fashion Futures Award 2014, announced by Louise Ibak, was Andrea Loaiza Giraldo for her creative and commercial design.

With some serious talent on show, the jury had a tough decision on their hands. This year’s FAD finalists proved just how valuable FAD is for getting a tough break in the fashion industry, and we hope to see some of these young talents as Fashion Scout designers in their own right in the future.

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Photographs by Elizabeth Hodsin.

INTERVIEW| Freelance TWS and Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff

Ahead of the Isabel Garcia show earlier today, Fashion Scout caught up with FreelanceTWS and Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff to discuss the models’ nails that are going to complement the designer’s show.

Which inspirations did you use for the Isabel Garcia show?

The Isabel Garcia show used a specific colour nail - it was a custom design for her. The inspiration is soft, combined with rose and gold to create a flowing feminine sense. The nail colour that Isabel used custom from The Body Shop is named Quiet Rose Gold. It is a colour that consists with the base coat (Arms and Kiss). Then we used The Body Shop sugar cubes with four colours to create the rose gold effect. We fused the colour with little pigments and blended them together. By taking and crashing them over, it gave a fine pigment. It is almost dust like, so when we apply it and dot the nail, it's infused with a variety of colour.

How did colour come to life?

We are working directly with Isabel. It was fantastic! We spent time to discuss and it is amazing to collaborate our visions. I feel appreciated that we get to view the designer’s collection and to understand what the designer is trying to achieve - the feeling of the garments, colour, and texture. I can see Isabel has a sense of fun and young features on her collection so that’s how we found the collaboration and inspiration for this specific colour.

How does your team work through this?

Our team and I were tag-teaming on this. It is a two-man role. So one is applying the colour while the other is dabbing the pigment on the nails. Then we put the topcoat on the models’ nails.

How did you come to work in the nail industry?

I have a masters degree in design, so bringing the fine art and design experiences into my career it helps a lot. I worked internationally, within the United States, where I based in Miami and New York and I come to London and Paris where I travelled the globe constantly to do nails design.

How do you feel working at Fashion Scout?

This is the first time that my team and I work at Fashion Scout. It is a fantastic experience. Especially when we are able to create and collaborate with these wonderful up and coming designers. I feel such an honour to partner with them. The nail team and I are having a great time!

Nails by @lepetitnails

By Bowen Lee, (@bowenleely).

Photographs by Oliver Savage, (@OliSav).

COLLECTION| George Styler SS15

This afternoon in the Vestibule, George Styler showed his SS15 collection. Introduced by two shirtless models wearing nothing but swimming trunks and golden embellishments on their hair, the overall vibe of the show could only be described as a mix between New York street style in the 90s, thrift shop chic and the bearings worn by a Texas pageant queen. Together, they all blended together and transported the viewer into the world of ready-to-wear today. 

Using an intricate form of web-style knitwear to create short dresses in bright shades of pink, purple, blue and yellow, the designer layered embellished jeans jackets and vintage style cardigans with naïf motives over shimmering pink corsets. Creating a candy-like look, they were topped off with golden detailing on the clothes and hair.

With bold shoulders and bold hips, the garments shown were clearly not designed for those who don’t enjoy standing out. Creating juxtaposition between opaque materials and shimmer, as well as wooly textures and jeans, the kitsch chic collection incorporated several typically extra-feminine motifs such as kittens and knitted roses in statement pieces that seemed transported straight from pre-internet times.

The short, dainty and fun dresses were created utilising an intricate decorative knitwear technique that created different spider-web like patterns, and were given movement in the beaded detailing and shimmering embroidered roses. As well as that, statement pieces created by corsets in bright pink and gold detailing topped off by yellow and pink tulle transported the onlooker into a world of candy and unstoppable partying.

Styler’s SS15 collection embodied the spirit of carefree amusement expected from the sun-lit seasons. By mixing patterns, colours and materials, the designer maintained his bold and bright identity, and topped it all off with a good dose of sugary femininity to create an exciting and creative runway show.

By Biju Belinky, (@bijubelinky).

Photographs by Celine Castillon.

ILLUSTRATION| Day One at Fashion Scout London

Ashley Isham

Ashley Isham

Cassandra Verity Green

Daniela Barros

Keiko Nishiyama

Marianna Jungmann

Ming Backstage

Min Wu

Ong Oaj Pairam

Rohmir

Youjia Jin

Illustrations by Vivien Chan, (@Tweet_Vivien).

DAY ONE| Fashion Scout London Opens

Today kicks off the first day at Fashion Scout showcasing an array of innovative design talent.

The exhibition returns this season, featuring our Merit Award Winner, and Ones To Watch designers, open from 10am to 6pm. Today hosts the first pop up exhibition of the week with pieces from young talent at Graduate Showcase 2014.

Well anticipated shows from Jamie Wei Huang, Ong Oaj Pairam, Ashley Isham, and our Ones To Watch showcase highlight the first day here at Fashion Scout.

Be sure to check back to the blog throughout the week, as well as follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram for all of the latest coverage.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| One to Watch Cassandra Verity Green

Capturing the eye of press like Dazed & Confused, i-D and MTV, knitwear designer Cassandra Verity Green takes inspiration from personal experience, emotion and memory. 

Named one of our Ones to Watch this season by an industry panel which included stylist Rebekah Roy, Hilary Alexander and Phoebe English, Green uses colour and cut to put together an aesthetic that's playfully innocent.

Known for the manner in which she included her goldfish within her bags, she's gained experience under the likes of Craig Lawrence and Leutton Postle before launching her own label. Graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2013, she has already won Grazia's Fashfactor competition in collaboration and gained sponsorship from Spinexpo and Santoni Shanghai. 

Presenting as part of our Ones to Watch showcase tomorrow at 13:30 alongside Keiko Nishiyama, Min Wu and Youjia Jin, Green's technical, hand-crafted pieces and meticulous work ethic are sure to be a definite progression from her debut 'Neptune's Daughter' collection. 

Be sure to check back to the blog throughout Fashion Week for exclusive Fashion Scout coverage, as well as follow our Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.

Images, courtesy of Cassandra Verity Green. 

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Daniela Barros & Joao Melo Costa

Bringing together urban and elegant in amazingly deconstructed garments, Portuguese designer Daniela Barros has been drawing attention of the international industry for her ability to form a perfect balance between minimalist shapes and androgynous oversized creations. The designer, who graduated from Porto University in 2008, has shown her pieces in the runways of Lisbon, Vienna, Paris and London.

  

Working with the contrast between strong geometric shapes and the delicate balance and movement of the materials used, Barros creates conceptual pieces that are greatly inspired by the self and philosophical concepts. The designer, who has as creative director of Portuguese brands Hush Puppies and Heavy Jeans, creates three-dimensional shapes that emanate an aura resting between ethereal and powerful, and is sure to bring strong and interesting new looks to the catwalk this season.

Joao Melo Costa is a graduate of the Arts University of Porto. Presenting his first collection in Portugal, he was nominated for best new talent in the fashion awards Portugal.   Having also showcased his collection in New York, Barcelona and Madrid to name a few, we look forward to seeing his work on the Fashion Scout catwalk.

Last season, "Joao Melo Costa opened his show with round shoulders and diamante encrusted sleeves. Starchy materials gave garments an oversized fit and contrasted an array of fluid ankle slit trousers. Pinstripe was a key feature throughout and was used in both dresses and two piece trouser suits. Models graced the catwalk in identical flatform shoes adding yet another androgynous aura to proceedings. Oversized ensembles included a ginger coloured embellished top with fluid trousers and a mini skirt and oversized jacket complete with leather tasseling." (Charlotte Muscat, Fashion Scout contributor).

Daniela Barros & Joao Melo Costa will be showcasing on the Fashion Scout catwalk together on Friday 12th September at 16:30.

By Biju Belinky, Contributor, (@bijubelinky).

Images, courtesy of Daniela Barros & Joao Melo Costa.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Jay Briggs

Having only recently graduated from the University of Salford, Jay Briggs is already making his mark on the industry with his beautifully intricate pieces. Tailoring a dark aesthetic to the world of millinery, his creations are bold, embellished and satisfyingly dramatic. Captivating the empowerment of women through his darkened lens, he uses a variety of intricate materials and textures, including beetle wings, to construct his impressive looks.

For Fashion Scout SS15, he will showcasing Melusina. A collection that Briggs describes as "The tragedy of Melusina, whatever language tells it, whatever tune it sings, is that man will always promise more than he can do to a woman he cannot understand." With a childhood fascination rooted in witchcraft and the dark age concepts, we look forward to seeing how he'll continue to take silhouette and structure and tailor it to his carefully crafted vision.

Briggs will be showcasing from 11:00 - 13:00 on Monday 15th September in The Vestibule. To see the full Fashion Scout schedule, click here.

Be sure to check back to the blog throughout fashion week for a review of Jay Briggs' show, as well as everything else as it happens.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).

Images, courtesy of Jay Briggs