Backstage at Fashion Scout: Day One

Exploring the upcoming hair and makeup trends for SS16, Fashion Scout headed backstage to the first shows of the day, Jamie Wei Huang, Angel Chen and Gyo Yuni Kimchoe. With a plethora of emerging beauty trends, beauty sponsors The Body Shop and Toni&Guy created innovative looks to compliment each of the designers' collections.

Jamie Wei Huang and Angel Chen showcased the standout hair trend for SS16, braids. Angel Chen's look kept hair back of the face and textured using label.m Sea Salt Spray, with models wearing intricate braids individually styled to flatter their faces natural contour. Strands of hair were undone to reflect the rebelliousness of the younger generation in the late 1960's USA. Continuing the braided trend, Jamie Wei Huang used two intertwined fishtail plaits created with messy textures for a natural look.

Gyo Yuni Kimchoe created a similarly natural tousled look with a rockabilly inspired twist using label.m Volume Mouse to construct a square quiff. The volumised front of the style lead into a sleek ponytail, emphasisng that updos are in for SS16.

Makeup looks appeared to showcase all or nothing, with Gyo Yuni Kimchoe and Angel Chen displaying bold, rebellious models opposing Jamie Wei Huang's raw, natural look.

Gyo Yuni Kimchoe used The Body Shop Honey Bronze to create a sunkissed base with the Shimmer Block in bronze highlighting the models' features. Eyebrows were filled in with dark mascara with contrasting red and green eyeshadow above the brow line to hint to Native American connotations. Angel Chen also displayed strong brows using transferrable barbed wire tattoos to create a defiant look. Over a matte bronze base, models were adorned with personal transferable tattoos and faux facial piercings, rejecting conformity.

Exhibiting a raw, youthful look, Jamie Wei Huang showcased the SS16 bare faced trend, with sunkissed models adorned with a base of The Body Shop Moisture it and Colour Crush eyeshadow in coconut. The model's flushed appearance was accentuated with a touch of blush to their cheeks.

With contrasting makeup trends and an exciting insight into SS16's updos, Fashion Scout can't wait to see what the talented teams at The Body Shop and label.m Toni&Guy create over the coming days.

Words: Elizabeth Renfrey (@erenfrey)
Images: Maja Jankowska (@babypolsky)
Editor: Fiona Nicholls (@fifinicholls)

ILLUSTRATIONS | Jamie Wei Huang

Fantastic illustrations capturing the energy and vibrance of the Jamie Wei Huang show earlier today.

#FashionScoutAW15

Illustrations by @billieblue_designs 

 

INTERVIEW | JAMIE WEI HUANG

We caught up with Jamie Wei Huang in the aftermath of her AW15 Fashion Scout showcase to get the low-down on her latest collection..

Hello Jamie, can you tell us about the inspiration behind your AW15 collection and how you came to decide upon your chosen aesthetic?

This season my collection is called nymphomaniac, based on the movie, which tells the story of a girl who is a sex addict. Throughout this collection we have tried to convey the story through her surroundings and every look represents a different story, the principle of this collection is to tell about the hidden self. It explores desire and bravery and aims to encourage the notion of being different, realising who you are and being proud of it or alternatively facing it and trying to come to a compromise. We have used a lot of metaphors this season and used a lot of materials as a language to tell our story. I think the best collection is one that doesn't need a press release, one that uses its own language to tell a story, we chose very delicate materials to convey a sensitivity that we were trying to portray to our audience. There are a lot of contrasts throughout my collection some looks are very relaxing and others depict an alternative story.

How do you feel your AW15 collection has developed from your previous collections?

The main principle behind my collections have never changed. I have tried to bring out the individuals true self throughout this collection and what has stayed the same from previous seasons is the quality and tailor made aspect of our collections and how we treat what we do.

Finally, what do you think of Fashion Scout as a platform for progression?

Fashion Scout has been a really great platform for emerging, young designers. This is my third season and I think that Fashion Scout is getting better and better, I am really glad to be a part of it!

Charlotte Muscat

@CharlotteLM9

COLLECTION | Jamie Wei Huang

Jamie Wei Huang returns to Fashion Scout this season showcasing, as ever, a lesson in minimalist detailing and quality workmanship. Huang's AW15 collection, inspired by the film nymphomaniac explores the realms of obsession and constraint as she beautifully juxtaposes structure with fluidity.

Thick leather buckles and harness detailing create a sense of restriction throughout the collection which is contrasted against the billowing flow of wide-legged trousers and oversized, masculine tailored suits. Models arms were often seen encased in fur stoles and long cut-out leather gloves adding to a feeling of entrapment. Silhouettes varied throughout Huang's collection, ranging from straight cut dresses to voluminous trousers and skirts. Pin-stripe detailing was combined with leather and fur elements, making for the ultimate in tactile collections. Oversized leather tasselling and pony skin backpacks along with ultra high split detailing perfectly complement Huang's exploration of addiction throughout her collection.

A minimal colour palette of black, white and navy is occasionally injected with vibrant teal and pink tones throughout Huang's collection whilst high neck detailing throughout creates a further sense of confinement in the midst of fluidity.

#FashionScoutAW15

Charlotte Muscat

@CharlotteLM9

BACKSTAGE | Jamie Wei Huang

Some exclusive shots from backstage at today's jamie Wei Huang show for #FashionScoutAW15!

Photogtraphy by Elizabeth Hodson 

JAMIE WEI HUANG SHOW ANNOUNCED!

Fashion Scout discovery Jamie Wei Huang is welcomed back this season. Graduating from Central Saint Martins Art and Design College in London, Huang launched a contemporary womenswear label, which combines conceptual ideas with a modern silhouette. She has worked in high-end fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane giving her an unparalleled insight into some of fashion's most creative hubs.  

Signature elements of the label include a clean refined outline, silhouette and an aim to provide a representation of a modern women’s character.

Jamie Wei Huang is returning to the Fashion Scout catwalk in February with her AW15 collection.  

Fashion Scout London takes place from the 20th - 24th February 2015 at the Freemasons' Hall in Covent Garden. Check back to the blog during the event to see Jamie's show review and much more.

Follow us on @fashionscout

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EXCLUSIVE | DESIGNERS RETURN TO FASHION SCOUT CATWALK

Fashion Scout, the leading international showcase for fashion innovation, returns to the Freemasons' Hall in Covent Garden this London Fashion Week from the 20th - 24th February. Instrumental in raising the profile of emerging design on a global scale, Fashion Scout will present over 50 of the Brightest UK and International design talents in Catwalk Shows, Presentations, Exhibition and a new for AW15/16 Pop Up Emerging Designer Exhibition.

Fashion Scout designers Pam Hogg, Jamie Wei Huang and Youjia Jin are set to return to the Fashion Scout Catwalk. We caught up with Pam Hogg, who commented on the return, “Its great being back in my studio working, its like playtime with fabrics strewn all over the place. Working alone gives me this freedom, my quiet space with no one around allows the simplest thing to trigger new ideas, each day something unexpected emerges and I just go with it. I thank Fashion Scout for giving me this platform for my work.”

February 2015 will be Fashion Scout's 19th season during London Fashion Week. Featuring a selection of innovative UK and International designers, Fashion Scout will be hosting over 30 catwalk shows and presentations. The Fashion Scout London Exhibition will return to the Freemasons' Hall in Covent Garden, running from the 20th - 23rd February. The exhibition will feature all four Ones to Watch designers and Merit Award winner James Kelly, alongside four of the brightest new emerging talents.

by Lewis R Waters

Follow us on @fashionscout

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COLLECTION| Jamie Wei Huang SS15

Known for her exploration of an inner persona, Jamie Wei Huang's SS15 collection explores the individual as a concept, allowing it to flow seamlessly into her pieces each season. Focusing on human existence for her SS15 collection, models walked dewy skinned with deep set eyes fixated on the beat of a heavy bass.

This season's collection caters for a variation of fundamentals within sporting uniforms. Leather buckles were equipped at various angles as other garments juxtaposed contrasting fabrics such as beaten leather and a delicate Toscana sheep skin.  

Huang was careful in contouring detail in the most subtle areas using stitch detailing and traditional pinstripe patterns. Textured two pieces were paired with platformed sandals, flourishing in the inspiration of a modern day "London banker".

Shy blues and vibrant pinks set the tone for a palette in which garments were frontally pleated whilst sporting cut out panels on the backs. The use of refined silk jacquard and delicate leather posed casual silhouettes as cuts stayed classic and hemlines were trimmed in gathered leather.

Huang has continued to develop from her years at Fashion Scout, reaching out and expanding her loyal following each season.  

By Joanna McCutcheon, (@joannamcc_).

Photos by Celine Castillon

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Jamie Wei Huang

A womenswear designer who combines the conceptual with the modern, it's no wonder why the work of Jamie Wei Huang has been so quick to catch the eye of the industry. Selected as one of the top five finalists for the international Designer for Tomorrow award, personally mentored by Stella McCartney and gaining full sponsorship for her SS14 show at Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week, Huang’s label is one which prides itself on creating streamlined clothing for the contemporary woman.

Last season, Huang's AW14 showcase on the Fashion Scout catwalk brought together the delicate nature of the label with militant precision to portray the resourcefulness that war dictates. Through material, light, functionality and form, leathers and wools were paired with features focused on functionality in the creation of a thoroughly impressive collection of garments.

Using fashion as a visual language to explore the self through material, texture and cut, it's these elements that combine again and again to create her signature aesthetic. Having gained experience under both Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, as well as working as a costume designer for the 2012 London Olympic and Paralympic closing ceremonies, we have no doubt that the work Jamie Wei Huang brings to the catwalk this season will be as beautiful as ever.

 

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).

INTERVIEW| Jamie Wei Huang AW14

Following her Fashion Scout showcase we caught up with Jamie Wei Huang to get a further insight into her AW14 collection.

Hi Jamie, can you tell me about the inspirations behind your AW14 collection?

The whole collection was inspired by the film The Pianist however instead of war I wanted to focus on the war refugees themselves, I wanted to focus on their character. Although the collection is based on the film the idea has developed and its more about the individual's.

What was it about the characters that you wanted to showcase?

Before the war these people may have been teachers, artists or musicians, they may have had great wealth, they may even be hiding a beautiful dress under their masculine oversized coats however war has made then favour function just in order to survive and keep warm. Although the refugees environment changes they don’t change themselves in terms of character they just learn to adapt and survive.

There was a very clear mood set throughout the show, it was slightly sombre, tell us more about this?

I wanted the models to walk quietly so that the audience is given the space to think about who they are as people, underneath the oversized clothes. I also wanted the women to be seen as unified.

Is the juxtaposition of masculinity and femininity important throughout all of your work?

Yes, my last collection also featured masculine silhouettes, it's an ongoing thing for me, I don’t simply design one collection then stop and design the next, its all an ongoing story.

What do you think about Fashion Scout as a platform for progression?

It has given young designers and graduates a big platform and a chance for exposure, it has been very good for me to to get the chance to show my work through Fashion Scout.

Interview by Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)

Photography by Sim D, taken on the compact fashion forward LumixGM1 (@PanasonicUK)

COLLECTION | Jamie Wei Haung AW14

Inspired by images of refugees, Jamie Wei Huang’s AW13 collection is a lesson in structure and simplicity. As the catwalk begins, the importance of silhouette and texture becomes apparent, lines are clean and crisp and executed in stiff and stark fabrics giving an almost regimented feel to the runway. Zips and buckles feature heavily within Huang’s collection creating an awareness of enclosure and a sense of entrapment, this too is further reinforced by the use of masked hats which feature strongly throughout the collection. 

Models mouths are shielded as they are encased in their hats. Silhouettes are asymmetric and square cut adding interest to an oversized form. Although a strong feeling of masculinity is present throughout, this is beautifully juxtaposed with more fluid lines in trousers and pleated midi skirts, this contrast of masculine and feminine as well as the use of both light and heavy materials make for a stunning contemporary fusion. A minimal colour palette of dark blue tones, white, black and red with a hint of pink and grey is used within the collection, adding to the stark yet thoughtful mood which Huang so effortlessly creates.

A Central St. Martins graduate, Huang has been mentored by Stella McCartney and has had the opportunity to work under fashion greats Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane. This has no doubt aided her in her seemingly fluent ability to use her designs to create a dialogue with her audience. At the heart of Huangs AW13 collection is the sense of giving a voice and a character to modern women, she gives us both style and substance in abundance and the results are spectacular.

By Charlotte Muscat (@CharlotteLM9)
Images by Lepa Georgievska (@GeorgievskaLepa)