INTERVIEW| Little Shilpa

Little Shilpa’s SS15 collection looks to decades gone by to update a wardrobe staple. Disco metallics feature in pleated headpieces, while denim goes DIY with shape-making cords. Little Shilpa herself speaks to Fashion Scout about her inspiration, presentation and why accessories are so important.

What was the inspiration for this collection?

This collection is where I bring together the past, the present and the future. It’s inspired by music, by club kids, it’s inspired by the beat generation, by disco, and it’s also kind of rounded off, bringing everything together, using denim. I feel like all of us wear denim almost everyday, and it becomes kind of like a second skin. So in my collection, the denim is just like rectangular pieces of clothing, but you can see there are cords on the clothes, and you can keep pulling and tugging and change the shape of the garment, so it’s kind of a DIY denim collection. The headpieces and the epaulettes are in pleated metallic fabrics, which are inspired by the disco era. So it’s the future of the denim, going into the past to get disco, and marrying it all together as clothing for the new generation.

Are you frequently inspired by diverse eras? 

I will always have a basic inspiration, but I’ve always tried to tell a few different stories within one collection. I get inspired by what’s happening in my life at that point, and you know right now it is all about music. I’m still feeling disco, I’m still feeling metallic, but I still live my everyday life and it is still all about denim. So all of this has come together and created the collection.

Where does your collection feel most at home, in India, London or another city?

I think it’s for anyone who understands my brand. I don’t think it’s got anything to do with where you live globally, it’s part of what you feel in your headspace. This is more for somebody who likes to experiment with what they wear. Even though it is denim, you’re still changing shapes as per your whim. Even if it’s a headpiece and it’s metallic, it’s how you feel. You may not want to wear a metallic headpiece of metallic dress, but there will come a point in time where you want to wear something shiny. I think it’s more for someone who understands the mood of the collection or the mood of the brand.

People have told you that India wasn’t ready for your brand - where do you stand on that now?

I’ve always said that nobody’s not ready for it. You always have to make it available for somebody to be able to experience it. If I thought that I couldn’t make a denim collection because it wouldn’t work in London or it wouldn’t work in India. My label can’t work like that. You always have to kind of push it out there, and then somehow it always works, it always finds its way around. 

How do you feel about showing with Fashion Scout again?

I love showing with Fashion Scout. I’ve had immense support over the last three seasons, and the organisation and the way they just bring everything together is amazing.

By Isabella Silvers
Photographs by Elizabeth Hodson.

COLLECTION| Little Shilpa SS15

"This stylistic collision equates to Disco Denimals."

Little Shilpa took over The Vestibule this evening to showcase her intricate headwear pieces and accompanying looks. Last season introduced us to a dark and luring aesthetic which, to our surprise, took a different direction this time around.

Guests are greeted to the static sounds that follow each model as the "collection marches to the tectonic beat of its own drum". Although dark in its element, its sound contrasts against the metallic hues.

The head pieces themselves are pleated, reflecting on the disco-tinged era of free spirits. As some sit as epaulets others obscure the faces of the models, allowing only the eyes to break through the vibrancy of the fabric.

The lose denim apparel which is also curated by Shilpa is cascaded by the head pieces as they absorb themselves into a second skin - protecting and enhancing the designer's primary focal work. 

Rectangular slabs are adjusted by neighbouring models, showing the audience the versatility of the look as a whole. "The freestyle shape-shifting nature of the garments corresponds to the revelry-loving festive spirit of the designer's moodboard."

By Joanna McCutcheon, (@joannamcc_).
Photographs by Florian Schadauer

BACKSTAGE| Little Shilpa SS15

Little Shilpa is diminutive by both name and nature, but her headpieces stand tall. The Indian designer’s pleated styles reference the disco era, replicated in the hair and make-up looks by The Body Shop and Toni&Guy.

For the face, Lan Nguyen-Grealis reinterpreted Little Shilpa’s colourful collection into a disco, psychedelic look with a hint of tribal and sport. Adding stripes across cheeks in The Body Shop’s Spring Summer shades of purples, blues and yellows, Lan imitated the pleats running throughout Little Shilpa’s SS15 show. Disco-esque rounded dolly eyes had layered lashes, with lots of mascara on the top and bottom. Eyes were kept as the main feature on an otherwise pared back base, something Lan predicts as a trend for SS15. "The last two days, everything has been very high gloss, it’s a no make-up look with a statement, but very street and wearable. It’s not untouchable. It’s not that difficult’.

In terms of products, Lan used the Colour Crush eyeshadow in Sunshine Love to stripe cheeks, while the Smoky 2 en 1 Black Eyeliner and Glowing Amethyst Eye Definer gave the doll-eyed look – the mouldable quality of the products great for smudging and mixing colours, as well as being really long lasting. Fashion Scout gives Lan an opportunity to be more creative than in other cities due to the unpredictable nature of designers who show in London adding an extra element of fun to her job.

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Photos by Elizabeth Hodson.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Little Shilpa

Always a hot ticket at Fashion Scout, Little Shilpa returns for her third season, bringing her global brand of unrestrained artistry to London from her Mumbai home. Since 2009, the miniscule milliner, designer and stylist has created one off headpieces that are unconventional, fantastical and showstopping in equal measure – a far cry from the traditional Indian marketplace trends.

Shilpa Chavan, whose first name fittingly means ‘sculpture’, is recognised by international press, including Vogue, as one of India’s most talented accessories designers; going against popular opinion that India wasn’t ready for her inventive creations. ‘It’s up to you to take charge,’ she has said, ‘I believed that you can’t restrict yourself by assuming that the market is not ready for what you have to offer’. And what an offering it is – ‘Grey Matters’ featured oversized structural headpieces that re-imagined the sari in perspex florals suspended above transparent helmet-like headpieces, as well as cut-out paisley sari patterns in a suite of ‘super Indian’ hues, embroidered with gold.

‘Vesper Bloom’ showcased a darker aesthetic for Shilpa, inky black and soot grey headpieces illuminated with model-held torches on a gloomy catwalk. Oversized eyelids and lashes competed with floating foliage and fringed appendages in a mysterious collection also full of feathers, beading lace and sequins.

Having interned for Philip Treacy, collaborated with legendary milliner Stephen Jones and counting the outrageously outfitted Lady Gaga as a dedicated fan, Little Shilpa’s Fashion Scout SS15 collection is sure to find its spiritual home in rebellious London.

By Isabelle Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Images, courtesy of Little Shilpa

NEWS | More Designers Announced for London

Fashion Scout are pleased to announce the addition of several designer names to our London roster.

From the 12th - 16th September, Fashion Scout will take over the Freemasons' Hall in Covent Garden for another season of standout talent. With the Fashion Scout SS15 Schedule filling up with the careful selection of UK and International designers joining the September showcase, we are able to confirm the following designers as those returning.

Apu Jan

FAD

Hema Kaul

Little Shilpa

Lulu Liu

Natalie Coleman

Ong Oaj Pairam

Swedish School of Textiles

Vita Gottlieb

Catwalk shows and presentations will be held in Fashion Scout’s two catwalk halls, and this season will see the return of the Fashion Scout Exhibition held in the Prince Regent Room.

The confirmed Designer Profiles are live online here. Be sure to check back to the blog to see designer profiles, as well as announcements in the lead up to the season. 

Keep up to date with everything Fashion Scout in-between now and fashion week on our Twitter and Instagram.

NEWS: Little Shilpa Featured in Vogue Italia

Fashion Scout AW14 designer Little Shilpa has been featured in Vogue Italia. 

For Vogue Italia's 50th anniversary, the publication have teamed up with Pepsi and, through their 'Pulse of New Talent' project, invited 10 international designers to interpret the world of Pepsi through their distinct design aesthetic. Little Shilpa is one such designer who, through her fashion forward vision and expressive millinery, is sure to bring a fresh eye to the brief. 

"When I think of Pepsi, I think of refreshing summer days, youthful dalliances and the EDM generation," Little Shilpa explains to Vogue Italia. "For this project, I have designer a visor. It is a double-layered visor with two colour ways for men and women... The design is youthful, fun and imbibes street culture."

Little Shilpa showcased her AW14 collection 'Vesper Bloom' at our Freemason's Hall venue in February. Bringing a dark presentation of pieces to our presentation room, her designs were highly embellished and intricately detailed.  

To see illustrations of Little Shilpa's piece, photos of the design itself and to read the rest of the interview, click here. 

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, taken by Oliver Savage.

ILLUSTRATION| Little Shilpa and Backstage at Fashion Scout London AW14

Illustrations by Katie Karara (@KateKarara)

INTERVIEW| Little Shilpa AW14

Today Little Shilpa has come back for her second season at Fashion Scout. AW14’s collection ‘Vesper Bloom’ was an incredibly powerful presentation that had the entire room hypnotised by Shilpa’s contrasting textiles and fabrics. We spoke to Shilpa Chavan to hear her thoughts for Autumn Winter.

Well Done Shilpa. This presentation is amazing, how are you feeling about it?

Thank you so much. I’m good thank you, I’ve had a very hectic morning, a model cancelled right at the last minute so it’s been very stressful and I’ve been very anxious. We’re here now though and the room has been full so I guess that’s a good sign.

It definitely is. Last season was a very colourful and uplifting collection, what was it that made you want to create a collection that is so somber and dark?

Indian Saris inspired the collection last season so it needed to be colourful to present the colours and fabrics of the Saris. This season I was inspired by ‘Vespertine’. I showed lots of beautiful colours last season but this season I wanted to show a darker light, and a beauty to it. The darkness has another life, some flowers can only grow at night. I wanted to show this side.

Do you feel you’ve progressed in any way since last season?

I’m a lot more grounded this season. This time I’m moving in just one direction which has actually been easier to just focus on one colour tone.

Read our review of Little Shilpa’s presentation ‘Vesper Bloom’ to see the full details of the astounding collection.

By Emily Black, (@emilyy_black)

Photography by Oli Savage (@OliSav) taken on the fashion forward LumixGM1 (@PanasonicUK)

COLLECTION| Little Shilpa AW14

Little Shilpa showcased with Fashion Scout for the first time last season, and she made sure she wouldn’t be forgotten. The literally little designer presented us with ‘Grey Matters’; an amalgamation of gorgeous colours and futuristic acrylics inspired by Indian Saris. Shilpa Chavan presented the tough decision of whether to go traditional or with the times - a grey matter.

Last season’s collection was great, this season's was taken up countless notches. ‘Vesper Bloom’ was an incredibly haunting presentation that had every viewer amazed. Eerily distorted music filled the room as shadow-like models dispersed from behind the wall. Head to toe in black, the models crept forward holding a single torch light to their face casting a tormenting image as they edged closer.

Feathers, beading, sequins and lace created gothic detailing that added a beauty and almost romanticism to the deathly tone. Vespertine shadows, in the form of models, fully personified Little Shilpa's strong imagery as projections of zombies, cannibals, vampires and monsters took shape on the walls.

The presentation was continuously enticing; as the nightwalkers loomed from pose to pose even more of the Mumbai-born designers meticulous detailing became evident. Shilpa’s work has been taken to another level- her use of sparkling cylinders, feather metal mes, and rosary beads could not go amiss as she has clearly been working extremely hard.

Whereas Little Shilpa had already made a name for her talent in creating astounding headpieces and accessories - she has now proven that she can create something much more than that. Her presentation today had the crowd fighting to get to the front, daring to get close to her midnight creatures.

Little Shilpa’s ability to generate unique concepts that do not transcend time is amazing and she has shown everyone at Freemasons’ Hall a macabre magnificence that has left us all speechless.   

By Emily Black

Images by Oliver Savage (@OliSav)

PARIS SHOWROOMS| Little Shilpa SS14

Mumbai born milliner and accessory designer, Little Shilpa is one of the influential designers set to showcase at the forthcoming Fashion Scout Paris.

Renowned for innovative and powerful designs, the inspiration behind each Little Shilpa creation derives from local influences and observations. These are channeled through vintage thought and transcended into modern, current products made using a multitude of fabrics and creative techniques.

The final products are a fusion of the fields of fine art, design, film and photography, co-existing as one.

Written by Brooke McCord, Fashion Scout Contributor. Follow me on Twitter @BrookeMcCord

Photographs by Jamike Latif, @JamikeLatif