A classic white catwalk provided a blank canvas for Gyo Yuni
KimChoe’s SS15 show - a tough utilitarian collection with blooms of
khaki and iris-indigo florals. With a front row of press and buyers, not to mention bespoke Colin Leslie sunglasses in the goodie bags, this season’s Merit Award winner,
Gyo Yuni KimChoe, opted for a gardening-inspired urban uniform,
including epaulette, button and fabric strip detailing.
Born in Korea, meeting in New York and eventually moving to
London, the design duo, who are also in a relationship, showed a
series of terracotta, khaki, coal and sky blue military inspired
culottes, wide leg trousers and hooded parkas, complete with multiple
pockets, cross-over back straps and apron ties. Buttoned neck collars
were paired with simple white shirts, re-imagined macs and shirt
dresses. Ruffled sprigs of khaki material, when seen a little closer,
are actually floral, and add shape to shoulders and hips. These
puckered floral strips provide an explosion of delicacy to an
otherwise sturdy collection.
Towards the end of the show, models emerged enveloped in hooded
parka-esque cocoon coats, loaded with drawstring toggles and trailing
floral fabric strips. A touch of army camouflage, Gyo Yuni KimChoe
built on their philosophy of ‘respect life and nature’, drawing
inspiration from both military armies and the metaphorical war a
gardener wages on backyard weeds. Models carried guns entwined with
greenery, while foliage sprung from practical wellington boots and
Crocs. The KimChoe woman is clearly strong, and doesn’t stop her
ethical conscience shining through the functional, fashion forward
pieces.
The Merit Award, judged by the prestigious panel of Hilary
Alexander, Rebekah Roy and Phoebe English, a previous Merit Award
winner herself, attracts scores of fashion buyers and press. With
this collection, Gyo Yuni KimChoe have more than proved themselves
deserving of this influential title.
By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).
Photos by Florian Schadauer.