A designer who takes her background in art and history and fuses it into fashion, Vita Gottlieb is inspired by the contradictions inherent in dominant strength and delicate sensitivity. Showcasing with Fashion Scout last season for AW14, her 'Caged' collection simultaneously cocooned and empowered the human form. In an exclusive interview and invitation to her studios a matter of days before her SS15 show, Gottlieb talks about her SS15 collection, artistic inspirations and the advice she'd give to upcoming designers.
Vita Gottlieb: It’s
all about the underwater world, but as imagined from a futuristic
coral reef, all fluid shadowy waters and layered, gossamer textures.
I also looked at the sensation of floating – I love water and that
feeling of buoyancy and freedom in liquid. The way you can lose your
sense of gravity and go into another mode of being. Having always
wanted to dive, I wanted to try to imagine and recreate that sense of
wonder under the surface of the sea. Nature and our own evolution are
always at the core of my collections.
VG: I’ve
always loved botanical illustration and this season was looking at
Ernst Haeckel, the nineteenth century illustrator, philosopher,
professor and artist who made more than 100 intricate illustrations
of sea-creatures. These are otherworldy and incredibly detailed and
formed the basis for motifs in my digital prints this season. His use
of colour is always threaded in in a subtle way and I wanted to mimic
these tones of coral reef and microscopic sea-creatures.
VG: It’s
always a progression. I look back at past seasons and realize how
differently I would do things now; re-imagine, re-construct,
re-design – but this is all part of the creative process as spread
over time. It’s always a re-evaluation of the previous season and
the conversation keeps on going. I feel this season is lighter and
more fluid.
VG: Probably
the white water-fern embroidered pieces.
FS: Having been a Fashion Fringe finalist, as well as previously
showcasing with Fashion Scout during fashion week - what advice would
you give to any upcoming designers?
VG: Make
sure you have the tenacity to be able to continue season after
season, the investment both financially and emotionally – this bit
is incredibly tough, as you have to really work on those spreadsheets
and do your forecasts fastidiously, and network like crazy to find
that investment. You need the emotional support of close friends and
family. Never let other people confuse your vision or your instinct.
Listen, though, as when you’re on your own, you need the voices of
others. Just trust yourself in the end.
Great! I’m really
looking forward to this season’s show. It’s a brilliant
opportunity and great to be part of it.
By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, courtesy of Vita Gottlieb.