There was a sense of heightened urgency building towards a
climactic crescendo throughout Carlotta Actis Barone’s Autumn/ Winter
collection. As the dramatic soundtrack rose to a striking summit, Carlotta’s
hems lengthened with sheer, asymmetric trains billowing ominously in the
catwalk’s bed of smoke- a physical element touching on the show’s theme;
honouring the memory of Holocaust victims.
Despite the show’s macabre inspiration, there was beauty in
the details of the rich, blue and purple jewel toned silks, and intricately
embellished, iridescent uppers that proved testimony to Barone’s skill as a
designer. Always one to make a sartorial, social statement, the feminine
silhouettes- cinched tightly at the waists- were intermittedly punctuated with
stark, nude body-suits blazoned with the motto of a war gone-by: “Arbeit Macht
Frei”- “Work Liberates”. A message suited to the stripped back, cut-away
bodices exposing panels of flesh, vulnerable to the elements suggested in the
accessory details: polished, barbed-wire rings. It was a collection that
brought together the politically astute designer’s intended message, whilst
also maintaining an opulent femininity with full-bodied fabrics, and cleavage
bearing bodices; proving a success in marrying Barone’s two passions.
Images and text:
Sara McAlpine VFS Sub-Editor
Follow her @sara_mcalpine