A grand hall with high vaulted ceilings and dramatically lit
Gothic architecture provided a suitable setting for E. Tautz’s show, attended
by a star studded crowd of dapper dressed gents.
Patrick Grant gave a personal introduction to his show,
explaining his influence for this season’s collection, “Many of you will know
that I have been deeply inspired by Richard Serra’s exhibition in the New York
Met last summer”. Serra’s robust paintings of thick layered black paint would
be an excellent backdrop to Patrick’s designs. Fine Saville Row tailoring that
is elegant and unfussy provides a clean canvas for heavy gingham and oversized
checks.
Patrick explains, “When I was small boy I wanted to be in
the Household Cavalry, and my love of military tailoring has continued into my
work”.
Sophisticated design and classic elements of menswear such
as slim fit trousers and double breasted jackets are lifted with fun details
such as bright red lining that flashes from beneath a coat as the model walks
down the runway, hints of red around a grey blazers collar, an oversized scarf,
smooth shaped lapelles and striking bell shaped fedoras.
Patrick uses blocks of red, navy, charcoal and black and
checked patterns across sweaters, coats, parkers in his “British lightweight
cloths”. The sharp collection featured traditional tailoring but mixed it with
a sense of break-away rebellion.
By Amy Lockwood, VFS Contributor, amyjanelockwood.blogspot.com
Photography by Rowan Papier, www.rowanpapier.com