Nimesh Gadhia, a pharmaceutical scientist turned designer, is the man behind Posthuman Wardrobe. Gaining his fashion credentials by working on Savile Row for the likes of Ozwald Boateng and Vacher & Jacobs, Nimesh’s understanding for the complexity of human form and analytical approach to garment construction has lead to the development of Posthuman Wardrobe’s signature architectural outerwear, complex jersey pieces and sculptural trousers.
VFS: What were your feelings and thoughts when you knew you were announced as Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch MEN winner?
NG: Equal parts fear and joy.
VFS: How are you celebrating?
NG: That will come after the show - for now, there's simply too much to do.
VFS: Starting as a pharmaceutical scientist, then turning designer... could you tell us a bit more about your pathway?
NG: It wasn't as much of a departure as one might think. I was always keen to apply my thought processes to three dimensional problems. I design analytically and experimentally. in that respect, pattern cutting and chemistry are philosophically similar. there is a given and expected pathway for all chemical reactions. All equations must balance and the path of construction of any compound follows a specific set of laws. As with pattern cutting, all garments are constructed with a logic that predates what one would consider "modern design" and this logic is formed of functionality, economics and style. By bending or even breaking the laws within any given system, one can create new compounds or indeed shapes. This combination of deconstructing the laws while at the same time keeping a firm hold of functionality and wearability is what interests me the most.
VFS: When you get to design what inspires you the most?
NG: Inspiration comes less by moods and aesthetics and more by three dimensional problems in the form of questions. For instance, the new Spring Summer collection - All Systems Gone, looks at the science of sitting - mainly the shapes created when you sit or recline, the changes in the structure of traditional garments when put in different positions, their relationship with with other garments and in turn with the subject. I aim to re-create and deconstruct these garments and reconfigure them to create the same kind of energy in all positions and situations. For example, the twisting of seams while lounging, the gathering and riding up of layers is all recreated with definite purpose to produce a collection of familiar yet unfamiliar wearable pieces.
VFS: If you weren't a fashion designer, what would you do?
NG: I'd probably still be in pharmaceutics
VFS: Who are you dreaming to collaborate with?
NG: Currently and for the next season, we're working with the luxury furniture company: de Gournay - which is really exciting and is taking us in some unexpected directions. In the future, I'd like to get involved with musicians and bands. Also, I've always had a micro-passion for film and music. There are a few more collaborations in the pipe line but I can't say anything yet...
VFS: Where would you like to see your brand in the future?
NG: Um... everywhere
VFS: Now one month to go... how are you feeling towards September?
NG: All tingly. It feels like all the hard work over the past few years may actually start to pay off. I'm grateful of the team I have around me and I'm really looking forward to the aftermath.
VFS: What kind of music are you listening in your studio?
NG: It varies depending on my mood. I'm feeling Foster The People in a big way at the moment - they always ease me into it in the morning. I need to hear the Kills at least once a day (Alison Mosshart - oh my goodness!) and like the Kills, Awolnation and Skrillex encourage me to sew quicker. A bit of Cold War Kids always levels me out if I'm a little too stressed as does a bit of Will Young. Radio-wise I like a bit of Ken Bruce's pop master (but I rarely get a score higher than 20). Shaun keaveny on radio six followed by Lauren Laverne is always a treat but having said all that, I never miss Jeremy Vine at twelve o'clock.
Really , nice to meet you Nimesh. Looking forward to see you on September.
Vauxhall Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch MEN have been introduced and the 4 of them has provided us with lots of insights and feeding VFS´s excitement, we hope yours too...