Step into the Darkside

Welcome in to Darkroom, a concept boutique situated in the heart of Bloomsbury, London. Explore everything from interior, unique accessories, sculptures to magazines. You will find an eclectic mix of 60 different labels, from unknown emerging designers to established high end brands. The brand portfolio includes Fleet Llila, Jonathan Saunders, Scott Wilson and Florian. Darkroom is also stocking Maria Francesca Pepe´s line of jewellery, which is one of the designers VFS has showcased through the years.

The concept is built on a cross between fashion and art, showcased in unconventional contexts. Darkroom aims to stretch the boundaries between art and design and remove the gap by displaying functional objects as a pieces of art.

VFS decided to go and have a look for ourselves and of course share with our friends and family, meaning you guys. We sat down one rainy afternoon in June and had a chat with the charming Lulu Roper-Caldbeck, the founder and owner, together with her business partner Rhonda Drakeford.

What is the concept behind Darkroom and how did the business start?

The idea is to specialise in accessories for men, women and the home. Our products are generally hard to find anywhere else and unique to us. Me and my business partner Rhonda, was working on a home textile project together and started to look for a space where we could showcase our products. We found this beautiful venue in Bloomsbury and decided to expand our business with other brands and designers. So we started to develop our idea and we ended up with the concept you see today, Darkroom.

Who is the main Darkroom customer?

We started of by expecting customers in our own age, but has with time seen a very large age span, everything from students in their twenties from Central Saint Martins Art College which is located only a few minutes away, to the local pensioner in their seventies. The interest in art, fashion and interior is what combines them. The area, Bloomsbury, attracts mixed individuals and personalities. You can find law offices on one street parallel to a street with independent boutiques in the creative industry, it is a mix of high and low.

What is the price point of your products?

The price point is as wide as our product range. We have products on a low entry level, a customer can get stationary pieces for 10 pounds but can also find interior with a price tag of 800 pounds. We want everyone to be able to be a part of Darkroom, that is why we have this wide price architecture.

What kind of pieces do your customer tend to buy?

Our own line with cushions has been a big seller. We also design one-off vintage pieces and interior accessories that goes in line with the new Darkroom aesthetic. Looking at the jewellery, the fantasy and imagination inspired pieces from Florian has been really popular.

What are you looking for when acquiring new designers to your store?

We come up with a theme each season which guides us when looking for new designers. Our theme for the summer is ”Astec Camera” which refers to the Aztec Indian culture of South America. Geometrical shapes, pom poms and metal brass and copper is seen in our current product range. We get a lot of designer popping in to the store and showing their portfolio and we take it from there.

We prefer to buy small quantities of a large number of designers instead of buying masses, that is one of the core beliefs of the business.

We also visit a large number of trade fares in Paris, to spot new designers. Rhonda and me are together head of buying, actually head of everything that involves Darkroom, says Lulu and laughs.

What are your terms and conditions of buying from a designer?

It various depending on the product and designer. We tend to have jewellery designers on consignment for a couple of seasons. As we are not working with only fashion, that is a highly seasonal product, we usually work with sell and return for a longer period than a season.

What are your future plans for Darkroom?

We are trying to push our own ranges and develop them even further. We are now producing the major part in the UK but is seeking other European producers. The online sales is also an important part of the future, therefore we are constantly trying to build it up.

What inspired you for the store interior?

We wanted to keep the interior black, which frames our products well. As our products are made in different textures, colours and materials we thought it would work well together with shiny black cubes. The cubes are also freestanding which makes it easy to adjust and change for each season theme.

Finally, what are you playing in store right now?

The album is called Memory Tapes.

For more information, please visit their website here.

Contact Details

Darkroom

52, LAMB´S CONDUIT ST,

LONDON, WC1N 3LL

T: +44 (0)20 7831 7244

Supplier enquiries

info@darkroomlondon.com

General enquiries

info@darkroomlondon.com

By Yohanna Mannelqvist

The Village Bicycle. Young minded and free spirit individuals will fall in love.

Willa Keswick opened the doors to her new lifestyle boutique in Notting Hill in March. Village Bicycle is her first project in the fashion industry after moving on from her Mayfair club ”Willa”, that closed down last year. 

Vauxhall Fashion Scout review this store for young minded customer who still love superman and pray to neon crosses. To curb our curiosity, we decided to have a chat with Willa.

What is the concept behind Village Bicycle and how did the business start?

I registered the name of the store The Village Bicycle when I was fifteen. The concept behind The Village Bicycle was essentially to bring a new offering to Notting Hill, I wanted to create an environment where people felt inspired which would eventually become a destination.

What brands do you carry?
There are so many varied brands at the store including; Felder Felder, Mark Fast, Hannah Warner, Daisy Knights, Craig Lawrence and Style Stalker. We also have a few exclusives including Senso Diffusion and Tripp Jeans in addition to The Village Bicycle collaborations, we’re launching a brand new diffusion line with Craig Lawrence which is really exciting.


How would you describe you typical customer/target market? (Lifestyle, age, style, occupation, personality etc)

I’d say that our typical customer would be someone who doesn’t take themselves or fashion too seriously, open minded and someone who likes to have fun. I don’t think age or profession really comes into it but as long as they’re young in mind and spirit they’ll find something to fall in love with.

What is the price point of your products? (price range)

The price point varies from  £2 - £2,500 so there’s something for everyone 

What kind of pieces do your customer tend to buy? 

Generally I think most people buy accessories as a really quick and easy to update their wardrobes but also separates are quite popular particularly the Tripp jeans!

What and where are you looking for when acquiring new brands/designers? How can a new designer gain you interest?

I am always on the lookout for new and exciting brands to work with, I'm just like a magpie! if I see a hot girl looking amazing I have no shame in asking her wear she’s got her outfit from. Also, I’m always looking at interesting street style blogs, magazines.

What are you terms of buying from a designer? Do they sell on commission or do you buy their collections etc?

It completely depends on the designer, if they are just starting out it is usually a good idea to sell on a sale or return basis to test the product with our clientele. But it really does depend on the designer.

Who is head of buying? Who should a interested designer contact?

I am very involved in the buying process at the end of the day I make the final edit however I have a great team, but I’d say get in touch and through The Village Bicycle website www.imavillagebicycle.com and I’ll take it from there.

How are you connected to iamavillagebicycle.com and what function will that have for the business?

The website is called IMAVILLAGEBICYCLE.COM and it’s amazing! Alice Kodell is the web editor and she has created this incredible E-Zine. In the E-Zine it will have everything from videos featuring the likes of Rosie Huntington –Whiteley and Eliza Doolittle to music compiled by music editor Mel Blatt. The website will also be fully E-commerse allowing customers all around the world to buy the items available within the store.

You are stocking designers such as Bodyamr, which has showcased with Vauxhall Fashion Scout, how important is it to support emerging designers vs selling more established designers?

It’s really important to me that I work with emerging talent as well as more established brands. I love the feeling of working with a new brand and taking a risk because I want my customers to come into the store knowing that they’ll find things which they won’t find anywhere else.

What are the future plans for Village Bicycle?

I have so many plans for The Village Bicycle, I want to collaborate with more brands there may be an exciting collaboration with Felder Felder in September. I’m launching the leather range which again is really exciting.

Your boutique is located in Notting Hill, is there any specific reason for the location?

I’ve grown up in Notting Hill so I’ve always been fond of the area. However shopping wise, I felt intimidated by some of the stores and felt that there needed to be something which catered to a slightly younger demographic which is something that The Village Bicycle brings.

What is the inspiration for the store design and interior?

I get inspired by everything from films to art galleries however the film Romeo and Juliet by Baz Lurhman inspired the walls with all the neon crosses and the wonder wall is inspired by a trip to Toy Land in Tokyo and I worked with a brilliant company Saucy Cow who helped to source all of the pieces.


What artists/songs are on the playlist in the store?

There is such a real mixture, our music editor Mel Blatt has great taste when it comes to music and her taste is really varied. I’d say you could be listening to a bit of reggae one minute and hip hop the next – visit www.imavillagebicycle.com where you can download some of our exclusive playlists.


The Village Bicycle
79-81 Ledbury Road
W11 2AG 
020 7313 9031
imavillagebicycle.com

Yohanna Mannelqvist

Pics: The Village Bicycle

Vauxhall Fashion Scout interview's LN-CC

London based concept store LN-CC mixes emerging and established labels in new and exciting ways. A unique combination of womenswear and menswear makes for unisex shopping, and the appointment only store strives to push the boundaries of the retail experience. Taking a tour through the wooden architecture, Vauxhall Fashion Scout interview the people behind the concept…

What is the concept behind LN-CC, and where did the idea come from?

The concept behind LN-CC is basically to mix classical, directional European designers, with new wave brands and Japanese labels. We are very happy and proud to be working with these brands. We try to acquire more and more brands, to ensure we keep on being relevant, gathering good quality products. We constantly need to be moving forward and keeping ahead of new or emerging labels.

Boutique Review: Hostem

Slap bang in the middle of Shoreditch’s trendy Redchurch Street, an area predominantly composed of art galleries, twee cafes, creative design agencies and old haberdasheries, rests a stylishly new menswear boutique by the name of Hostem…

Armed with my notepad, dictaphone, camera (and umbrella!) I paid a visit to the store earlier this week to meet the owner, founder and brains behind it all, James Brown. On this, a typically British wet and windy day, the store looks most inviting: It’s old rustic wooden store fittings and burnt orange lighting, creates an appealing, cosy and homely atmosphere.

The store finally opened its doors in July of this year, after two years of solid researching, preparing, and revamping:  “We spent a whole year just looking for the right location; everywhere from Mayfair to Dalston and every where else in between,” explains James. “But when the opportunity came up to locate here we just couldn’t resist… It’s an area that has a great energy and a unique environment: It’s perfect!”

Since its launch, Hostem’s success has already begun to boom, sparking major interest amongst the UK style press. James states it’s all down to luck or fate; a rather ‘right time, right place’ scenario, but I would have to say it has more to do with clever instincts and having an adept ‘business head’ firmly screwed on. From his time spent living and working abroad in Italy and Los Angeles, James realised there was something missing in the fashion retailing industry back at home: “In cities such as Paris, Tokyo and LA everyone speaks so highly of London and what vastness it has to offer in terms of fashion, when actually I believe it to be incredibly lacking.” James then reveals his interest and love for international concept stores such as Colette and L’Eclaireur; he speaks with such knowledge and passion, it is clear that the idea of Hostem has been a long time ambition of his… In fact James’ passion for fashion is the underlying reason behind his boutique’s existence: “The primary purpose of launching Hostem was to have a space where we could support and showcase the brands that we love and believe in,” he states. “…And as the brands we stock all have a very different aesthetic we wanted a space where they could successfully sit altogether.” And they have certainly achieved that!

The store’s stylish space itself is the creative handy work of interior design duo, James Russell and Hannah Plumb, a.k.a. JAMESPLUMB. “They were amazing to work with,” says Brown. “The way they bring ideas to life is just incredible: On the first day we got the keys to the store, Hannah turned up with an old, tattered, grass covered, church pew but now it sits beautifully by the store’s entrance as the front desk!” The pair’s vision creates a clever ‘rustic-luxury’ paradox: panels of hessian line the walls, encaged light bulbs hang low from the ceiling, whilst reclaimed antiqued furniture rests on original Victorian floorboards. James claims that he  “didn’t want anything white, stark, minimal or modern.”

To avoid pigeonholing themselves into one particular identity, the guys at Hostem have taken an eclectic approach when it comes to their stocked product. Offering a combination of styles from street wear brands such as Stussy and Mastermind Japan, which are all housed in the store’s recently opened basement room (the very room in which our interview itself takes place) to more artisan and avant-garde labels including Boris Bijan Saberi, Rick Owens and Casely Hayford. “When it comes to buying in products, the first and foremost thought is ‘Is something that myself and my buying team love or would wear ourselves?’” James reveals. “But essentially we try to provide a happy mix of designers whether they be new or established, local or international.” Brown continues to express his enthusiasm for supporting new young talent, mentioning one name in particular, Curiouser + Curiosuer, created by a young accessories and jewellery designer, Alice Wease: “She walked into the store one day, and said ‘This is what I do…’ showed us four pieces of jewellery and one scarf and we loved it!” Hostem is now the proud UK stockist of Alice’s debut collection, but they also admit to “keeping a sharp eye out for other emerging designers too, whether they are based here in the UK, or in Paris, or Tokyo, or anywhere worldwide!”

In fact Brown and his team are so devoted to supporting and promoting creative talent that they have formed a room dedicated entirely to the cause. Referred to simply as ‘The Third Room,’ it is a constantly changing space to be used as a platform for visiting designers and artists to showcase their work. “The Third Room is really great as it allows us to do all kinds of collaborative projects: We welcome any ideas and love for emerging designers to be involved.” James then adds: “In fact, one thing we have thought about for forthcoming fashion weeks is to give a designer the space for the entire period as their own show room, where they can take their orders and invite guests…” And as an additional bonus for the lucky selected candidate, James reveals the space will be offered free of charge: “It’s our way of showing support and recognition to those who deserve it.”

Hostem and JAMESPLUMB joined forces one again for the debut ‘Third Room’ project, which ran during the London Design Festival in September of this year. Entitled the ‘One Room Hotel’, the pair filled the space with their signature style of rescued antiques and reclaimed furniture including a beautiful French 16^th century bed. “One of the team suggested in jest ‘why don’t we actually let guests stay here?’ to which I of course replied ‘you have got to be kidding me!’” laughs Brown. “But the more we thought of it, the more we wanted to play it out, and it actually worked really well and was great fun!”  After such enjoyment and success of the ‘One Room Hotel’ exhibition, James can’t hide his excitement about his impending third room visitor, Darren Romanelli or ‘Dr Romanelli’ to me and you: “His showcase will be launching around 22^nd November for a month or so,” reveals James. “He [Romanelli] is creating a pop up Victorian chemist, displaying some amazing products that have never been seen before outside of Japan!”

(The One Room Hotel and the Dr. Romanelli Prescription Shoppe)

With such an eclectic combination of products, styles and labels, it's no surprise that Hostem in return attracts an eclectic combination of customers; so much so that James found it tricky to even describe to me the stereotypical ‘Hostem man’: “What we have found is that we don’t have a stereotype, so I couldn’t possibly describe him to you… In any one day we get anything from a guy in his late 50s to a young ‘street kid' and everyone else in between!” And although their product offering is entirely aimed at men, everyone at Hostem has been surprised by the amount of female customers they have had walking through the door. Although much of the clothing stocked in-store reflects a unisex and androgynous aesthetic, (something which judging by the store’s already existing female clientele, many women favour,) I wondered if an additional Hostem branch dedicated to womenswear is a possible consideration for Brown and his team in the near future: “We’ve been overwhelmed with how many women have come in-store already and a lot of the menswear brands we stock have womenswear lines too so it is a major possibility…” Fantastic news for us girls! And if you live outside of the UK then you too are in luck as James uncovers news of an online addition to Hostem which is set to launch soon: “We will sell a selection of our products online but not all; I think there are some pieces which have to be seen in person or tried on… But on the other hand, we would also like to offer some items that would be exclusive to our online shop.” Once again wearing his ‘business head’ James Brown intuitively identifies the importance behind bringing his store to the fingertips of the ever demanding and technologically savvy 21^st century fashion consumer through admitting that “in this day and age, all retailers should have an online store…”

[Hostem: 41-43 Redchurch Street, E2 7DJ.]

  

Words: Sarah Barlow

An interview with New York boutique début

As London Fashion Week is in full swing our Exhibition space has seen a huge number of international buyers flock to the Freemason's Hall to chat with and view the S/S11 collections of our much talked about exhibitors. Earlier today I got the chance to chat with Lisa from New York based boutique début was she visited the space. Amongst an amazing selection of emerging talent début stocks current and passed Vauxhall Fashion Scout designers including Eudon Choi, Felder Felder and Gemma Slack. When asked about the concept behind the boutique Lisa expained; “début provides a launching pad for emerging designers by offering them an opportunity to showcase their collections in a gallery-like environment. Through which they can establish a sales track and greater exposure for their brand”

It is clear that the niche for boutiques stocking exclusively new design talent is an expanding one as its customer base continues to grow. With this in mind I quizzed Lisa to find out what the début customer is looking for, what debut, as a stockist, looks for during Fashion week and what the boutique can offer to a young designer.

Do you feel there is a growing niche for boutiques like début?

For sure. I find our customers are very educated on emerging labels and they are interested in discovering what’s new. They are capable of styling themselves and look at it as a way to individualize themselves from their peers.

début stocks a number of emerging designers, some of which have shown with Vauxhall Fashion Week in the past, is it important that you support emerging designers as well as better known labels?

Our focus is really on emerging labels. Some of our designers may be more well known in other countries and still at an introductory level in the US. We bring in designers from their first season to 8^th (and on). The unifying theme is that they are all looking to increase their brand awareness, they are passionate about what they are doing and offer an aesthetic that is unique.

What kind of events does début hold in order to raise the profile of its international designers?

Trunk shows have been very popular, they give the designer an opportunity to meet customers in person and show more from their current or upcoming collections. Cocktail receptions/trunk shows are often attended by industry insiders helping to spread the word about a designer’s collection. Our customers enjoy the personal experience, knowing the designer and owning something special from the collection.

Aside from the New York store do you have plans for reaching a wider customer base?

Our online store is in the works, we already take phone orders and would like to make the collections more accessible to customers that are not in New York.

We are excited about your visit to our exhibition this season! Tell us, what will you be looking for in particular?

I am looking forward seeing some of the presentations of designers we already stock as well as discovering new talent to introduce in New York. Each of the collections we stock offer something special bringing a unique perspective to fashion and I feel confident my trip will be productive.

What can our London designers do to really grab the attention of a stockist like début during the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Exhibition?

Its hard to see everyone, so it is always good to follow up. A great way to do this is by sending look books, staying in touch.

What is it about British design that attracts you to LFW?

Cutting edge aesthetic and an unrivalled unique approach to trends.

And finally who is the début customer?

Not only does our customer have an appreciation of fashion, our customer has a unique sense of style. It is someone who is interested to know about the designers they are wearing.

I am more than certain that the début team will return from London with bags of potential new labels as London Fashion Week S/S 11 serves up a fresh batch of innovative and covetable designs. For more information on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Exhibition head to www.vauxhallfashionscout.com.

Words by Lara Angol

An Interview with Young British Designers Online Boutique

This week I had the pleasure of meeting up with Julian Whitehead and Debra Hepburn, two of four founders behind brand new online boutique ‘Young British Designers’. Bursting with enthusiasm, they told me all about this exciting new venture set to launch this September, just in time for London Fashion Week. Budding British designers, listen up…

Firstly, describe what ‘Young British Designers’ do?

We are an online boutique and we do exactly what it says on the packet, creating a business focused solely on naïve British talent. We’re not saying you have to be young; we simply look for British based designers that are in the early stages of their career. Not only do we support talent that is, for the moment, unheard of we also look at those reentering the design world. Designers such as Felicity Brown for example, that have worked in the industry under bigger labels and only recently begun to launch collections of their own.

You describe the site as a “stage”, a platform for new designers, what is it that makes you so niche?

We are the stepping-stone between events like Vauxhall Fashion Scout and huge buyers like Net-a-Porter. Once a new designer has shown at LFW, perhaps for the first or second time they are still ‘emerging’ and looking for the next step. Based online, we reach audiences globally but unlike other online boutiques we focus only on great British design talent, attracting those who love and appreciate just that.

Who is the ‘Young British Designer’ customer?

Our customer wants to make an individual style statement. Today more and more people endeavor to pioneer their own look, in doing this they want to wear strong innovative designs.

Those with a specific interest in British design are not a mass audience. It’s a special group of people. In a sense ‘Young British Designers’ is a risk, but there is too little risk-taking going on in the world!

How do you select designers for the online boutique, will you be attending London Fashion Week S/S 11 for this reason?

We are constantly scouting for young design talent whether it is during Fashion Week, online or a designer approaches us directly. Though when someone is going something fantastic it’s obvious and we snap them up! Of course we will be keeping our eyes peeled this season as well as catching what our current designers have in store for S/S 11.

How does the relationship between the online boutique and each young designer work?

Once a designer features on our site we aim to form a sustainable relationship, supporting them as they progress and become more widely known. We act as a launching pad and hope to grow with our designers until they are in their fourth collection or so, producing stronger work with every season. Having had a sneak peak of a few S/S 11 collections they already appear to be going from strength to strength!

____________________________________________________________________________________________

As we chatted I stole a glimpse of the website which is set to launch early this September. It was inspirational to discover this is not just another online boutique but a platform bringing the “emotion back into fashion”. A personal blurb accompanied each designer’s product list and it quickly became clear that this is not just about shopping but about promotion, as Debra Hepburn exclaimed;

“We’re not just talking about the clothes, we’re talking about our designers. Where they’re from, their inspirations and how wearing their clothes makes you feel”

Masterminded by advertising gurus Stuart Jackson and Debra Hepburn and brand experts Julian Whitehead and Adriana Wheatley ‘Young British Designers’ is a refreshingly personal online shopping destination. With such pride taken and support given any budding British designers stocked on the site will inevitably thrive.

http://www.youngbritishdesigners.com/ 

Lara Angol

Boutique Review: 11 Boundary

11 Boundary is a high-end fashion boutique offering an eclectic mix of women’s clothing, shoes and accessories by top UK and international designer brands. The store was launched earlier this year by Debra Winstanley, who after years of experience in the fashion retail industry realised there was a gap in the market for specialist boutiques; a gap which she was only too happy to fill.

 “I feel that the high street is getting quite boring; everyone offers the same and so there’s such saturation,” explains Debra. “I feel that niche boutiques with a personal choice and a personal service is key. I’ve realised that not everyone wants mass produced garments, instead they want individual items and a good customer service.”

But at 11 Boundary there is a deeper purpose to their first-rate service other than just to generate sales; it’s about building relationships with customers and providing them with genuine assistance: “We can spend two hours in here with just one customer. We get a lot of customers that need help and advice… In here they get that!”

Pieces by Twenty8Twelve, American Vintage, Costume Nationale, L.A.M.B and Malene Birger are just a small selection of what’s offered at the East-end store. Many of these are well-established and popular labels, and some are even the creation of famous faces including Sienna Miller and Gwen Stefani. But what about new emerging designers? “You need your established brands,” reveals Winstanley. “It’s good to have a mix of pieces by new and emerging designers, but although you want to support them, it can be difficult and risky sometimes with new designers as you don’t always know if they are going to deliver or if their production is going to be right.”

Debra gave me an insight into what she looks for in a brand when buying: “The most important thing is to provide the customer with value for money. What we at 11 Boundary put a lot of energy into is finding brands that give good quality, as well as nicely designed garments.” A favourite of hers currently are Danish Brands including Malene Birger, DAY and a new arrival for 11 Boundary this season, Ganni: “They are absolutely amazing…the value of them all is just so good.”

Located in the trendy Shoreditch area of East London at number 11 Boundary Street (hence the name), Debra’s shop sits amongst a hub of style and luxury, with both the newly opened menswear concept store, Hostem and high end fashion boutique, Start, just minutes away from 11 Boundary’s doors.

The interior of the store is just as chic as the spot it is situated in, with plush white fittings and a pair of glamorous beaded chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. Debra searches through the racks and shows me some of her favourite items for Autumn 2010: “This one has already been very popular,” she says whilst holding up a grey knitted poncho by DAY. “We also had a beautiful Twenty8Twelve suede and leather mix jacket which has already sold out!”

11 Boundary now has an online presence in the form of an accompanying fashion blog, releasing news of latest stock and trends, and with an e-commerce addition to their website, www.11boundary.com, arriving in mid September.