For last seasons’ Merit award winner David Koma the heat was on to see if AW10 could match his last killer collection, which saw him rocket into the fashion stratosphere. After a S/S collection dominated by colour, this show was typically muted with milk-white, super-slicked, super-long haired models stalking down the catwalk in black leathers, suedes and heavy woollens.
Mixing thick fabrics with butter soft, diamond shaped leather panels and spiked, zig zag lines, Koma showcased his high tailoring ability and love of complex cut. The bold, dominating, zig zagged shapes were broken up with simpler, plainer pieces like his stunning, futuristic leather jacket, slashed down the front , with hyper exaggerated shoulders and hips, as well as skin tight separates with daring, flesh-flashing, diamond cut outs.
The tone soon shifted to evening sophistication, as Koma’s signature embellishment made an appearance. Swathes of chunky, patterned strips bunched and piled up over the hips and crept down over the neck. Dramatic, spiked shoulders sprung from the chicest of LBDs, and mounds of glistening silver and gold zips rippled across the arms and hugged the hips in a fabulous feast for the eyes. Flesh coloured bolts of lightning shot down the torso in that same super soft leather and sharp, graphic stars exploded across one shoulder and over the hem.
Koma, it seems, has pulled off a double whammy. After a whirlwind few months, Koma has kept his cool under pressure and delivered a collection which is grown up, sophisticated, and masterfully executed.
Posted by Fiona Anderson
Images: David Coleman