NEWS | Pinghe AW14 Collection Preview

With Ping He set to take to the catwalk at 19:30 tonight, the designer previews her illustrations and an exclusive interview for her AW14 collection with Fashion Scout. 

What can we expect from next season’s collection?

I have been fascinated by the rapid movement of everyday life and society for sometime. With the internet and social media, I often feel the world is spinning really fast around me. I almost want to slow it down, make it gentler and softer. So, I closed my eyes and shut my ears and “the world is blurred in my eye” came to mind. When I start to look at things around me with squint eyes, things start changing, colours start melting, words gain distance. Gradually through this thinking the collection came to life. The AW14 collection is contradictory, we continue with the brand identity of 'elegant resistance’. The collection is strong but not dark; it is resistance but not muscular; it is avant-garde but reachable; it is sexy but desirable.

How do you feel has this evolved from the work from last season?

Pinghe has evolved greatly. We have grown and developed in design, marketing and production and our aim is to continue to do so.

Tell us what kick-started the creative process for SS14.

My designs are inspired by my love of architecture and structure. They revolved around contrasting concepts – soft and strong, elegant and powerful. The SS14 collection is clean cut, monochrome and personifies contemporary beauty.

What does the future hold for Ping He? Where are you stocked now and what do we have to look forward to?

We are currently stocked in Harvey Nichols, Wolf & Badger and Not Just A Label, along with some international boutiques. Our business target is to be the best new international designer label in the next five years with all design, marketing and production in house, and to continue to grow successfully as we have been.

Interview by Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

Images courtesy of Ping He

BACKSTAGE| Lulu Liu AW14

With tousled high pony-tails and heavily lined dark lips, it was clear to see that Lulu Liu had something exciting in store for AW14. Fashion Scout caught up with the head of make-up, Lan, to find more about what was inspiring the make up for Liu’s collection. “The muse is a Chinese empress”, Lan explains. “She’s an urban princess who knows what she wants, not completely flawless, but still regal and from an imaginary world”.

The Body Shop were working hard to evoke regal urban princesses come to life. Make up artists were granted creative freedom, “I’m happy to move away from red lips” says Lan lead make up artist at The Body Shop, “We have put more of a dark twist on the make up to modernise it”. Emphasis was placed on dewy and highlighted skin to create the perfect youthful base. Messy brown and gold eyes juxtaposed against flawless skin to channel an urban, everyday girl. Make up artists put a new spin on a dark Autumn lip by working with textures. ‘Colour Crush’ and ‘Bake To Last’ eyeshadows were used to build up a plum lip working outwards in with concealer used to highlight and contrast.

Texture also made its way into the hair looks. Toni & Guy used a range products to achieve a textured and undone look set to storm catwalks this season. TONI&GUY Head Hairstylist, Chie, explained that stylists were working the hair from “dry to wet to achieve a simple, do-it-yourself look”. Models’ hair was turned into volumised ponytails set with a shine spray to ensure perfection. Face-to-Lace were working alongside the stylists to apply press on fringes to compliment the graphic aspect of the collection. Evoking the rebellious spirit of the 80s with daring, punk fringes, FashionScout anticipates the birth of Lulu Liu’s collection in her collection later this afternoon.

By Lydia Smyth, Contributor, (@LydiaRoseSmyth).

Photography by Lepa Georgievska, (@georgievskalepa) taken on the compact fashion forward LumixGM1 (@PanasonicUK)

DAY ONE| Fashion Scout London AW14

Fashion Scout arrives in London for Day One of the AW14 London Fashion Week season. Kicking off the week with a showcase of Ones To Watch designers, the catwalk with feature collections from; Carrie-Ann Stein, George Styler, Hiroko Nakajima, Sarah Ryan.

Legendary Pam Hogg returns for another season at Fashion Scout along with showcases from Lulu Liu, Ong-Oaj Pairam, and newcomer Jamie Wei Huang and a presentation from Napsugar and the well anticipated catwalk show from Pinghe.

Excited and gearing to go the season is off to an incredible start!

Make sure you stay up to date with all the events via Twitter and Instagram

by Jordan Hulse
@jordhulse

EXCLUSIVE| Ones to Watch Winner AW14 Sarah Ryan

Sarah Ryan is an individual who, through her standout approach to design, manages to push the darker side of style to impressive lengths. Using black as her colour palette of choice, she produces pieces that explore contour, texture and the inter-connectivity of garments with stunning results. With primary interests that lie in fusing the extraordinary with the functional, her designs are fierce and, combined with her unique delivery of silhouette and fabric, make for a personal and memorable aesthetic. 

A graduate of the Limerick School of Art and Design, her collections are born in Ireland and, having already been named Designer of the Year by the Irish Design Institute and Finalist of the Persil Design Award 2013, comes as no surprise she’s been named one of our Ones to Watch. In the lead up to her first season with Fashion Scout, we spoke to the designer on her brand, AW14 collection and what it means to showcase with us this coming season.

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)

EXCLUSIVE| Ones to Watch Winner AW14 Hiroko Nakajima

This February, Fashion Scout presents London-based Japanese knitwear designer Hiroko Nakajima, as one of its Ones to Watch. The Central Saint Martins BA and MA graduate will present her eagerly awaited AW14 collection in Freemason’s Hall. Nakajima has previously presented collections that mirror stimulating and thought-provoking themes such as defamiliarization, fairytales, and contouring the female body so you can predict it'll be a catwalk show that will not only be visually impressive, but will also fascinate. 

By Emily Black

EXCLUSIVE| Ones to Watch Winner AW14 George Styler

In the fashion industry there's always a ‘One to Watch’. George Styler however, is definitely one to keep a very close eye on as he joins Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch initiative. George finds himself in good company with many designers before him who have gone on to forge strong careers and design collaborations with various high street brands. With a degree in design from the College of Textile Design, Technology and Management in Belgrade, George went on to build his career at Todor where he developed his extensive skills in one of his key aesthetics - knitwear. 

The use of knitwear in his collections is a bold and eclectic mix of punky modern silhouettes and 3D shapes with a incomparable texture clash. His designs showcase this constant link between opposites which meet to create a NetWork as his AW13 collection was named. Styler is heavily influenced by both his upbringing and his current life in Belgrade and this is apparent in his design ethos. We sat down with George to hear about his unique design aesthetic and what we can expect from our Ones to Watch winner in 2014.

By Olivia Hunter

NEWS| Fashion Scout Model Casting

Yesterday, a plethora of models visited the Freemasons' Hall for Fashion Scout’s AW14 Model Casting. Attended by our Fashion Scout designers, including this season's Merit Award winner Xiao Li, and Ones To Watch winners Carrie-Ann Stein, George Styler, Hiroko Nakajima and Sarah Ryan, it certainly set the scene for Friday. 

Throughout the day Snog, who we are thrilled to have back for another season, were on hand to keep the models happy and refreshed with their tasty frozen yoghurt flavours. Snog will also be on site for plenty of shows at Fashion Scout’s Freemasons Hall to share their delicious guilt free snack with designers and guests.

Snog will also be giving away a month's worth of free Snog to someone every day during London Fashion Week to the person who takes the most creative shot of them #snogging. Be sure to keep up to date with their Twitter for more details.

Fashion Scout London runs from the 14^th – 18^th February. To see our full schedule, click here.

By Josh Walker, Editor

Images by Hannah Farrell, taken on the LumixGM1

EXCLUSIVE| Ones to Watch Winner AW14 Carrie-Ann Stein

Central Saint Martins graduate Carrie-Ann Stein joins Fashion Scout's acclaimed Ones to Watch showcase for AW14. You may remember Carrie-Ann's conceptual knitwear designs from last season as she was specially selected by Fashion Scout to present her 'Postcards from Blackpool' BA collection at our SS14 Graduate Showcase. Using oversized shapes and vivid colours, her graduate collection comprised of experimental knitwear techniques, weaved detailing and saturated hues in envelope dresses. Leaving a career as a lawyer, Carrie took a one year foundation course in fashion at LCF before embarking on her Fashion Design BA at Central Saint Martins College where she specialised in experimental knit techniques. Graduating with a first, Carrie was also selected for the Central Saint Martins College Press Show where her collection received acclaim from The Telegraph, Grazia and Elle. 

By Cass Gowing

ANNOUNCEMENT| Ones to Watch Winners AW14

Congratulations to Carrie-Ann Stein, George Styler, Hiroko Nakajima and Sarah Ryan who will all be showcasing under our internationally recognised Ones to Watch showcase this season. 

Judged by Martyn Roberts - Fashion Scout Director and Co-Founder, Jessica Bumpus - Fashion Features Editor at Vogue.com, Hilary Alexander - Graduate Fashion Week trustee and legendary journalist, Debra Hepburn - Founding Member of Young British Designers, Georgia Hardinge - Designer & former Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner and Rebekah Roy - Renowned stylist, it was the general consensus of renowned panel of judges that this is set to be the strongest season on Fashion Scout yet and we're onto a new 'wave' or 'era' of designers. We certainly can't wait to present our AW14's Merit Award winners in the collaborative catwalk show on Friday 14th February at 3.30pm.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT AW14| Yifang Wan

Taiwan born designer Yifang Wan is one of a handful of Asian designers with a distinctly modern aesthetic. A master in sports luxe, the Central Saint Martins graduate combines elegance with ease in loose flowing fabrics and functional silhouettes. She was also awarded the Loreal Professional Young Designer Award for her BA graduation show, and since then her designs have grown into beautifully crafted collections as shown in her SS14 offering. Now based in London, her designs are simplistic yet beautiful with martial arts being one of her key influences.

Like many Asian designers, our former Merit Award winner combines native traditions with nouveau shapes and craftsmanship as seen in her SS14 collection. Despite a minimal colour palette, Yifang Wan lets her skill speak through asymmetrical designs and multiple layers. She also cites art and more specifically Salvador Dali as a huge influence in her design process as well as how people wear clothes rather than just the pieces themselves. It’s this consideration of form and function that adds an extra dimension to her aesthetic and breaks the mould that many new designers try to fill these days.

Yifang Wan is preparing to showcase her fourth season this AW14 at London Fashion Week. She will present her collection on Day Two of Fashion Scout London at 11:30am in The Gallery.

Be sure to view the full schedule here.

By Olivia Hunter (@oliviahunter)
Photographs by Ben Turgel (@benjaminturgel)

NEWS| Vita Gottlieb AW14 Collection Preview

A womenswear designer focused on graphic prints, the subtle use of colour and innovative panelling, Vita Gottlieb is one who manages to fuse the world of art with that of fashion. Ahead of showcasing her AW14 collection with us on Sunday 16th at our Freemasons' Hall, Gottlieb shares the mood boards and illustrations that have inspired this season's creations.

Inspired by the image of Grace Jones in a Mahajara's Palace, caged birds fight for flight as the deep reds and golden hues are indicative of the setting sun. Born and raised in London, Gottlieb graduated from Central Saint Martins with an MA in Fine Art before setting up her label in 2012. Having already attracted the attention of press among the likes of Harper's Bazaar and i-D magazine, she's stocked in both London and the Middle East. With Gottlieb's collections taking their starting points from an imagined scene from an imaginary film, we look forward to seeing how she carries the contrasting themes of strength and fragility to the catwalk.

Be sure to check the full Fashion Scout catwalk schedule here.

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)
Images courtesy of Vita Gottlieb

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT AW14| Lulu Liu

Few designers are able to capture minimalism and combine it with an elegant youthful quality. Lulu Liu is one of these golden few who possess this quality. Originally from China, Lulu has sought inspiration from her surroundings and, after living in Japan for six years before making the move to London to study at the prestigious London College of Fashion, this is evident in her designs. Lulu has worked under the guidance of some of fashion’s most influential designers including Alexander McQueen and Giles Deacon before setting up her eponymous label.

Her SS14 collection shown at Freemasons' Hall carried with it a fascinating romanticism with delicate ruffles and hand painted paisley prints. Lulu’s design aesthetic is firmly rooted in clean lines and strong voluminous silhouettes and is all about a beautiful balance, further emphasised by her desire to use only the best fabrics. She combined butter-soft leathers and luxurious silks with unique skills such as the ruffle detail and also weaving, which was key in her SS14 collection.

Lulu Liu will showcase her AW14 collection on Day One of Fashion Scout London at 11:30am in The Gallery.

By Olivia Hunter (@oliviahunter)

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT AW14| Jamie Wei Huang

A contemporary womenswear designer who combines the conceptual with the modern, Jamie Wei Huang is a designer whose work is nothing short of impressive. Having already been selected as one of the top five finalists for the international Designer for Tomorrow award, not to mention winning UKFT’s TAP award and gaining full sponsorship for her SS14 catwalk show at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2013, Huang’s label is one based on the principle of bringing character to contemporary women.

One that uses fashion as a visual language to explore the self through material, texture and cut, her roots have become her foundations for developing the direction of her signature aesthetic. Personally mentored by Stella McCartney and having gained experience under both Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, we look forward to seeing what Jamie Wei Huang brings to the catwalk this season. 

By Josh Walker (@josh_walker_)