DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| One to Watch Youjia Jin

Youjia Jin creates the perfect juxtaposition between the masculine shape and the feminine form. Cleverly opting unisex pattern cutting within her womenswear collection, the balance she creates with her male tailoring skills and standout aesthetic all come together to make her one of our Ones to Watch.

Originally from China, Jin graduated from the MA womenswear course at the London College of Fashion last year and had previously studied at the Beijing Institute of Fashion and Technology. Now based in London and both a fashion designer and a buyer, she started her career by showcasing as part of her finalist at the LCF MA catwalk show at London Fashion Week last year.

Speaking of her AW14 collection, she took her inspiration from anatomy and surreal body art with a serene aesthetic. She admires the quality of human anatomy by analysing the body structure and combines the interplay conceived from traditional menswear tailoring to spark up her collections. Despite her minimal colour palette, Youjia Jin works her skill through symmetric design and pleating. Her designs are simplistic yet beautiful with clean-cut and moody colour palettes.

Youjia Jin has also achieved numerous high profile design accolades. She was awarded for the Top 10 menswear designer in China, presented her BA graduation collection at Beijing Fashion Week in 2009 and London Fashion Week last year. A designer who has well and truly caught the eye of the fashion world, we look forward to seeing her SS15 collection during our Ones to Watch show on Friday 12th September.

By Bowen Lee, Contributor, (@bowenleely).

Images, courtesy of Youjia Jin.

SS15 PREVIEW| Vita Gottlieb

A designer who takes her background in art and history and fuses it into fashion, Vita Gottlieb is inspired by the contradictions inherent in dominant strength and delicate sensitivity. Showcasing with Fashion Scout last season for AW14, her 'Caged' collection simultaneously cocooned and empowered the human form. In an exclusive interview and invitation to her studios a matter of days before her SS15 show, Gottlieb talks about her SS15 collection, artistic inspirations and the advice she'd give to upcoming designers.

Fashion Scout: What’s the story behind your SS15 collection?

Vita Gottlieb: It’s all about the underwater world, but as imagined from a futuristic coral reef, all fluid shadowy waters and layered, gossamer textures. I also looked at the sensation of floating – I love water and that feeling of buoyancy and freedom in liquid. The way you can lose your sense of gravity and go into another mode of being. Having always wanted to dive, I wanted to try to imagine and recreate that sense of wonder under the surface of the sea. Nature and our own evolution are always at the core of my collections.

FS: With a background in art and art history, it’s something you seem to feed into your work season after season. Are there any particular artworks or artists who’ve been a constant throughout this season’s collection?

VG: I’ve always loved botanical illustration and this season was looking at Ernst Haeckel, the nineteenth century illustrator, philosopher, professor and artist who made more than 100 intricate illustrations of sea-creatures. These are otherworldy and incredibly detailed and formed the basis for motifs in my digital prints this season. His use of colour is always threaded in in a subtle way and I wanted to mimic these tones of coral reef and microscopic sea-creatures.

FS: How do you feel this season is a progression from your last?

VG: It’s always a progression. I look back at past seasons and realize how differently I would do things now; re-imagine, re-construct, re-design – but this is all part of the creative process as spread over time. It’s always a re-evaluation of the previous season and the conversation keeps on going. I feel this season is lighter and more fluid.

FS: Do you have a favourite piece from your upcoming collection?

VG: Probably the white water-fern embroidered pieces.

FS: Having been a Fashion Fringe finalist, as well as previously showcasing with Fashion Scout during fashion week - what advice would you give to any upcoming designers?

VG: Make sure you have the tenacity to be able to continue season after season, the investment both financially and emotionally – this bit is incredibly tough, as you have to really work on those spreadsheets and do your forecasts fastidiously, and network like crazy to find that investment. You need the emotional support of close friends and family. Never let other people confuse your vision or your instinct. Listen, though, as when you’re on your own, you need the voices of others. Just trust yourself in the end.

FS: And lastly, how does it feel to be back showcasing with Fashion Scout this season?

Great! I’m really looking forward to this season’s show. It’s a brilliant opportunity and great to be part of it. 

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).

Images, courtesy of Vita Gottlieb.

NEWS| Fashion Scout SS15 Model Casting

Yesterday, models took over the Freemasons' Hall ahead of our catwalk schedule for Fashion Scout’s SS15 Model Casting. Attended by our Fashion Scout designers, including this season's Merit Award winner Gyo Yuni Kimchoe, and Ones To Watch winners Cassandra Verity Green, Keiko Nishiyama, Min Wu and Youjia Jin, as well as stylist Rebekah Roy, it certainly set the scene for this coming Friday. 

Throughout the day Snog, Vita Coco and Propercorn were on hand to keep the models happy and refreshed. Snog, Vita Coco and Propercorn will all be on site for plenty of shows at Fashion Scout’s Freemasons Hall to share with designers, models and guests.

Fashion Scout London runs from the 12^th – 16^th February. To see our full schedule, click here.

Be sure to follow us on Twitter and Instagram, like us on Facebook and keep checking back to the blog throughout Fashion Week for all of the latest updates as they happen. 

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, by Oliver Savage, (@OliSav).

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Ong Oaj Pairam

Hailing from Nakon Ratchasima, Thailand, designer Ong-Oaj Pairam presented his first season on the Fashion Scout catwalk during SS14. Graduating from the University of Brighton in BA Fashion Design he quickly found himself developing his professional skills under Roland Mouret and Proenza Schouler in New York before returning to London to launch his own label in 2012.

For AW14, Pairam took inspiration from his childhood memory - Disney villains such as Ursula in The Little Mermaid - and exposed it on prints with bold colour. Using rich flowing, bright colours, Pairam created a palette of electric orange, red and purple that offset the monochromatic looks.

Playing with the contrast between original signature prints, he uses soft tailoring and loud colour to redefine luxury womenswear. With a breath-taking attention to detail and hand embroidered finish, Pairam often refers his designs back to the 1950s shape, for the handcraft skills at that time.

His SS15 collection, scheduled to grace the Fashion Scout catwalk on Friday 12th September, is set to be a retro and reflective collection about his growing up at Nakon Ratchasima. Having been brought up in a noodle factory owned by his family, he has now grown to a polished designer. Seizing this collection as an opportunity to draw on his Thai background for the first time, we look forward to seeing how east will meet west under his signature approach.

By Bowen Lee, Contributor, (@bowenleely).

Images, courtesy of Ong Oaj Pairam.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| George Styler

George Styler is a Serbian designer with a decidedly maximalist aesthetic - ethnic embellishments, dramatic silhouettes and touch-me textures dress a futuristic traveller. Using fashion to express cultural points of view, Styler draws inspiration from a diverse range of sources, making Vogue, New African Woman and The Wild magazines all take note of our AW14 One To Watch.

The ‘NetWork’ collection saw Styler reflect on the interwoven global relationships between people and cultures, a modern society in an increasingly virtual world. Knitwear, embroidery and shearling with a Balkan feel are toughened with sequins, spikes and heavy metal accessories in a collection influenced by Persian royalty and global styles from East to West.

‘Captivity’ looked at the supposed freedom of the modern man still captured by society, using a bird motif and punk embellishments as symbols of freedom and rebellion. A darker colour palette of terracotta and turquoise took inspiration from Eastern embroidery, while silhouettes were exaggerated and textures embraced. Patent crocodile harem pants for men and bustled bottoms for women redressed the dichotomy between sportswear and glamour.

Graduating from the College of Textile Design, Technology and Management in Belgrade with a Diploma in Apparel and Textile Design, Styler has already shown with FashionClash, Belgrade Fashion Week and previously with Fashion Scout. We have no doubt that Styler is sure to inject some cultural and sartorial food for thought to SS15.

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Images by Hannah McGee, (@HannahMcG3e).

SS15 PREVIEW| Mariana Jungmann

Beginning a career in law before falling into the world of fashion, Mariana Jungmann will be showcasing her SS15 collection on the Fashion Scout catwalk on Friday 12th September. Born in Goiania, Brazil, she moved to London in 2011 to start her studies at the London College of Fashion. Now graduated with a Masters from the same university, she uses her Brazilian roots and renaissance lace as the inspiration point to her signature aesthetic. In an interview with Fashion Scout, we talk to the designer of what we can expect to see from her upcoming SS15 offering.

Fashion Scout: Why did you decide to go into fashion?

Mariana Jungmann: My path to fashion wasn't a straight forward one. I went to law school first, where I had the time to learn a bit more about myself and what my passion really was. Law wasn't for me at all, but I always loved the way people express themselves with clothing. I find it brilliant how people's perceptions of others are affected by what they wear and how much you can boost someone's confidence just by creating this illusion that fashion creates. So, I decided to learn about this through fashion.

FS: You seem to take a lot of inspiration from lacework. What is it about it that you find so intriguing?

MJ: Lace has a very emotional meaning to me. As a child I used to spend a lot of time playing underneath my family's glass dining table and this table was usually covered in lace tablecloths. This lace “world” was my imaginary world and from it I've learnt to look at the real world from another perspective.

FS: What can we expect to see for SS15?

MJ: A lot of lace!

             

FS: What was the starting point of the collection?

MJ: I went to Brazil in the beginning of the year and there I went to a few different states. That got me thinking how women are so different from place to place, how full of paradoxes they are, how much their culture can affect them and how special each woman is in their own little way.

FS: And lastly, how does it feel to be showcasing your new collection with Fashion Scout?

    

MJ: I can't describe this feeling. I think as a woman, I am full of paradoxes myself. I feel super happy and proud, I feel challenged because I want to make it very special and at the same time I feel accomplished. It has been an amazing journey to make and showcase this collection and I hope everybody loves it as much as I do.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Videos, courtesy of Mariana Jungmann.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Little Shilpa

Always a hot ticket at Fashion Scout, Little Shilpa returns for her third season, bringing her global brand of unrestrained artistry to London from her Mumbai home. Since 2009, the miniscule milliner, designer and stylist has created one off headpieces that are unconventional, fantastical and showstopping in equal measure – a far cry from the traditional Indian marketplace trends.

Shilpa Chavan, whose first name fittingly means ‘sculpture’, is recognised by international press, including Vogue, as one of India’s most talented accessories designers; going against popular opinion that India wasn’t ready for her inventive creations. ‘It’s up to you to take charge,’ she has said, ‘I believed that you can’t restrict yourself by assuming that the market is not ready for what you have to offer’. And what an offering it is – ‘Grey Matters’ featured oversized structural headpieces that re-imagined the sari in perspex florals suspended above transparent helmet-like headpieces, as well as cut-out paisley sari patterns in a suite of ‘super Indian’ hues, embroidered with gold.

‘Vesper Bloom’ showcased a darker aesthetic for Shilpa, inky black and soot grey headpieces illuminated with model-held torches on a gloomy catwalk. Oversized eyelids and lashes competed with floating foliage and fringed appendages in a mysterious collection also full of feathers, beading lace and sequins.

Having interned for Philip Treacy, collaborated with legendary milliner Stephen Jones and counting the outrageously outfitted Lady Gaga as a dedicated fan, Little Shilpa’s Fashion Scout SS15 collection is sure to find its spiritual home in rebellious London.

By Isabelle Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Images, courtesy of Little Shilpa

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Ashley Isham

To describe Ashley Isham’s aesthetic of contemporary glamour is to offer the answer to every woman’s wardrobe wants; classy, glamorous clothes with an emphasis on quality tailoring are made modern with urban detailing and thoroughly current styling.

The London based designer was originally born in Singapore, studying at LCF in 1996 for a pattern cutting course and a stint at Middlesex University. Established fourteen years ago, Ashley Isham the label has designed for a host of celebrity fans, including Florence Welch, Kylie Minogue, Lady Gaga, Paloma Faith and the British royal family. Official Fashion Designer at the 2004 BAFTA Awards, hard work has paid off for Isham, once an apprentice seamstress to his mother. ‘Eat, breathe and live fashion…it is pointless for someone not to be passionate,’ he advises.

His signature high-octane styles are at home on the red carpet, but that doesn’t mean Isham’s work is solely for glamorous events. AW14 also included a wearable mix of draped dresses, monochrome tartan skirts and scarlet capes, with glamorous finishes like dipped hems, snakeskin boots and sheer lace trousers – daywear still underwritten with Isham’s sartorial handwriting.

Having shown at Jakarta, Malaysia and Singaporean Fashion Weeks, Isham returns to Fashion Scout SS15 to reassert his vision of the feminine, empowered and individual woman that inspires each and every collection.

By Isabelle Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Images, courtesy of Ashley Isham

SS15 PREVIEW| Ming

A brand focused on contemporary womenswear and known for their attention to sharp detail, clean lines and subtle manipulation of textures, London based Ming will be the first designer to take to the Fashion Scout catwalk next week. Having curated a strong aesthetic, wearable garments and clean cut pieces bring a fresh take to design season after season. In a preview of what we can expect to see for SS15, Ming talks what makes a strong aesthetic and showcasing with Fashion Scout. 

Fashion Scout: How would you describe the Ming aesthetic?

Ming: A mixture of clean silhouette and complex fabrications. 

FS: What’s the story behind your SS15 collection?

M: The collection is inspired by the novel "Never Let Me Go" by Kazuo Ishiguro. From my interpretation, it is about daily lives and encounters, numerous incidents which occur and the inevitable, death. 

FS: How is this collection a progression from your past collections?

M: This collection is more minimalistic on the surface yet contains complex inner constructions.

FS: You seem to build a very streamlined aesthetic through pieces that have clean lines and silhouettes. What is it for you that makes a strong garment?

M: At this stage, I still think of myself as a story teller. My collections reflect my thoughts in different stages of life and I want them to be as honest as possible.

FS: How do you go about designing a collection? How does it start and progress to the final product?

M: I start by pulling inspiration from different sources of research, I then start sourcing fabrics, designing and sampling all at the same time because of limited time and then of course the collection is manufactured.  

FS: How does it feel to be showcasing with Fashion Scout again this season?

M: I am looking forward to it very much! There are different ways of presenting a collection and I think live show/presentation is the best way for the story to come across.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, courtesy of Ming.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT SS15| Apu Jan

Apu Jan will be showing with Fashion Scout for the fourth consecutive season this month, having previously shown his ‘Petroleum’, ‘The Signal’ and ‘Turbulence’ collections to critical acclaim.

Taiwanese Apu Jan, now based in London, graduated from the Royal College of Art with an MA in Fashion Womenswear, specialising in knitwear. For Jan, knitwear provides an opportunity to create a whole new world using just thread without the need for additional materials, a world in which imagination meets sophistication and history takes a flight of fancy.

Commended by the likes of Vogue, Wallpaper* and i-D, traditional oriental myths receive a modern interpretation, realised in fluid silhouettes, Eastern-inspired beauty looks and a restrained colour palette with one bold accent hue. Wearable separates emblazoned with modern prints by Ying Wu make for commercial collections, a touch of the avant-garde present in deep v necks, voluminous collars and peekaboo millinery.

Speaking about his childhood, Jan states that he always loves creativity, arts and crafts, reading books and watching films in particular, but can’t say that he always saw his career path lie in design. But a BA in Textile Design at Fu Jen University brought out an undeniable talent for turning mythical inspirations into fringed, frilled and draped knitwear of the most elegant kind. ‘There are so many stories I would like to develop into clothing; some of them have been in my mind for a while…. Once the story has matured I will start to design clothes and let them speak’.

Apu Jan will take to the Fashion Scout catwalk on Sunday 14th at 11:30am.

By Isabella Silvers, Contributor, (@izzymks).

Images, by Oliver Savage.

SS15 PREVIEW| FAD

On Tuesday 16th September, the last day of our fashion showcase, FAD will not only see 23 young people from London and Manchester take their designs to the catwalk, but will be celebrating 10 years of their Fashion Futures project.

FAD, or Fashion Awareness Direct, aim to bridge the gap between careers and the creative industries for young people - regardless of circumstance or background. Providing hands-on training, industry experience and opportunities to individuals, the support and mentoring FAD offer is invaluable.

“FAD have so many professionals coming in, helping us and giving their knowledge," says Shalom, last year's Fashion Futures finalist. "It has taught me to be more ambitious – in order to achieve your goals you have to think big and be prepared to work hard.”

   

Working closely with key names in the fashion industry, knowledge and confidence about career pathways and employment opportunities becomes a key part. 

"FAD have been showcasing with Fashion Scout since 2008," says Maria Alvarez, Executive Director of FAD. "For us it's a perfect fit. Fashion Scout's commitment to nurturing emerging designers works perfectly with FAD's aim to support young people from diverse and disadvantaged backgrounds into industry. Being given a platform at Fashion Scout is simply life changing for many of the young people we work with."

Be sure to check back to the blog throughout Fashion Week for show reviews, as well as exclusive interviews and backstage coverage and as it happens.

By Josh Walker, Editor, (@josh_walker_).
Images, courtesy of FAD.

SS15 PREVIEW| Dioralop

Andreja Bistricic and Maja Merlic are the Croatian duo behind the edgy fashion label Dioralop. With qualifications in textiles and technology, womenswear design and experience interning at Alexander McQueen studio, Andreja’s work is complimented by Maja’s architectural background. The pair are best known for their texturally rich and graphically printed constructions. The Dioralop founders have offered us a sneak preview of their upcoming collection and a behind the scenes look at their work.

Fashion Scout: What can we expect to see in the SS15 Dioralop collection?

Dioralop: Our collections are always inspired by Polaroid pictures which were created by intentional spills of chemicals and by exposing them to different temperatures. This way the pictures become different colours. Play off of Polaroids is our signature in every collection as we think this technique has inexhaustible number of the most unpredictable colour combinations. This season our prints are a bit different. We lost colours and patterns are the only thing left. Again, we are playing with losing the difference between genders and androgyny, so you can expect to see a few boys walking down the catwalk.  

FS: How would you describe this season's narrative/themes?

D: We have two main themes this season. Our first sources of inspiration are the original skinheads of the 1960s. The skinhead movement itself was started by working-class youths in England. Instead of opting for the flamboyant, fancy-dress escapism of the Mod and Teddy Boy youth cults before them, the skinheads embraced working-class fashion: cropped hair, meant-to-last shoes and boots, white T-shirts and worn Levis. They also borrowed from their working-class West Indian neighbours, adopting trilby hats and crombie jackets, peg-legged striped suits and a love for ska, the Jamaican music that mixed Latin beats and American jazz melodies and was the forerunner of modern reggae. The original skinheads loved to dance to these ska beats, often frequented all-black nightclubs and had, by the end of the decade, several Jamaican "skinhead reggae" records and bands they loyally supported.

Our second source of inspiration comes from head-to-toe tattooed women of the 1920s.

According to scientists, the earliest record of tattoos was found in 1991 on the frozen remains of a Copper Age 'Iceman' dating from about 3300 B.C., the art of tattooing has been practiced in Japan - for beautification, magic, and to mark criminals - since around the fifth century B.C. By the end of the Twenties, American circuses employed over 300 people with full-body tattoos who earned up to $200 per week.

FS: Describe briefly the design process from conception to show day.

D: Every season we experiment with Polaroid prints, and we never know where it is going to end. The same principle is used until the final product. Sometimes we like to surprise ourselves. We are just spectators of our own work and our design process - which is fun!

FS: Is there any stand out piece in the collection that you're most excited about?

D: We are definitely excited about digitally printed pieces complemented with embroidery.

FS: What kind of woman do you design for?

D: Uncompromising, aware and individual.

FS: What is the most exciting thing about showcasing with Fashion Scout?
D: Fashion Scout platform gives great opportunity to young designers around the world to showcase their collections to fashion insiders. We have been a part of Fashion Scout Paris showroom for two seasons now and we met amazing people and made great connections, so we are really thrilled to have an opportunity to have a catwalk show to bring our work to the next level.

By Lia Stokes, Contributor, (@LiaStokes).

Images, courtesy of Dioralop.